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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: tomtom on January 17, 2021, 04:00:49 pm
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Power club 566
Mon: Board day. Decent session - did well - started doing some long moves on big holds. Set up TRX afterwards, did 5 reps IYT front and back - felt weird!
Tu: Beastmaker. 2 sets of 3x6x7secs on slopers. 1 set on Middle 2 with 8kg off. Slopers are destroying...! Middle 2 very painful...
Weds: Board. 50 min session. 2x5 reps in IYT front and back. Ached after...
Thurs: BM, Slopers and middle two (as tues)
Fri: Felt terrible. had a rest day....
Sat: Superb board day - best ever since I made the footholds smaller. Only one problem done before that I've not done... This is what it looks like start to finish...
https://youtu.be/OIogXzq9pgE
Sun: B Slopers and middle two (as tues)
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Fri: Felt terrible. had a rest day....
Sat: Superb board day
:-\
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Good montage Tom!
Avg weight: 74.32kg, trending the wrong way...
A few new additions to the training this week, with some strategies being implemented to try and see if I can get down to 72kg. This primarily involves adding some fitness circuits to get the heart rate up, and adjusting the diet. I have also added a pulley system for my hangs. Going from adding up to 14kg on the BM2k rung to having to take off a couple on my portable rung has been a healthy ego check, but it's nice being able to do one arm hangs again.
Mon: Stretching and some new mobility exercises that my sister (physio) suggested. Very useful to have someone in the family to bombard with questions on mobility.
Tue: One arm hangs with resistance band (prior to the pulley). Managed bodyweight on my right but had to rely on a medium resistance band for my left, which is healing nicely. One arm french negatives to finish. The homemade portable I have been using is quite sharp, leading to it biting at my little finger too much, which also makes it a little easier to hold. I took a sander to it and rounded out the edge to somewhere between BM and lattice radius... more on this later...
Weds: Weighted pulls. 1 set BW x10, +10kg x10, +20kg x10, +30kg x8, +40kg x5, 5 sets +50kg x3.
Thurs: Fitness challenge thing I have seen going round. 100x pull ups, sit ups, squats, push ups in as little time as possible. I decided to try it in 5 sets of 20 of each. This was one of the most horrendous experiences of my life, and it was pure will power that got me through the last 2 sets. In the end I put up the extremely non-competitive time of 29:23, before lying on the sofa for 50 minutes drifting in and out of consciousness. Made me realise how unfit I was, but also how deep I could dig, which were good things to know. I will be using a variation on this a couple of times a week to get myself conditioned and fit during lockdown '21.
Fri: Pulley came (quick work, thanks V12) so I had a look at what I could do on the rung. Turns out rounding it has made it considerably harder (who knew...) so I now cannot hold it on my right hand without assistance. I am a big fan of this though, since it gives me something to work towards! Didn't want to go mad for my first session, particularly not on my still healing left, so I did 2 sets of 5s at 68.5kg and 7 sets of 5s at 70kg. To make sure I was actually weighting my fingers as much as I thought, I weighed myself attached to the system prior to doing the sets. Finished with 2 sets x10 explosives and 4 sets x10 explosives +10kg. Enjoyable session!
Sat: Shoulders (5 sets x5 Ts and reverse Ts) followed by a variation on the fitness challenge. I took pity on myself and decided a race to 50x was probably more appropriate, but swapped out the sit ups for leg raises (a decision I came to question half way through). Done in 5 rounds of x10 each, and found it gruesome but much more enjoyable. I don't think I will do it after shoulders again though, since doing both pulls and leg raises on the bar meant my shoulders were absolutely on fire trying to stay engaged for that long after being worked. Finished in 9:13. Lessons learned.
Mobility and stretching tonight.
The fitness/conditioning horror shows have done wonders for me already this week. Feeling like my muscles are waking up a little bit. This process of being active every day has made me pay much more attention to what my body is telling me, which is good.
The legs are not used to squats though...
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A good week, seem to have added 10% to my 1 arm max since the start of November. I've never consistently trained on a fingerboard before, so pretty pleased that this was the result!
January Goals
- Climb a 7B on one of the boulders in Hackney, my only local "outdoor" climbing - see Sunday's entry
- 10 mobility sessions. 8/10 so far
- Lose 2kg of Christmas weight - seems to be staying off.
- Try hard on the board and stick to my training plan - missed doing AnCap this week :spank:
Monday
Hangs - 4x7 seconds 2 arm hangs @ 109kg. Felt ok.
Board - Limit Moves. Could do a couple of moves on some projects, all felt hard.
On the minute boulders for 30 minutes, really didn't want to do this but was surprisingly fun after the first few reps. Forearms wiped the next day.
Tuesday
Mobility - 15 minutes hip flexibility
Wednesday
Board - trying to do intervals on a few medium problems. Repeating the same boulder 3x each with a few minutes rest between. I didn't really have enough of the right intensity to try I think.
Hangs on a pullup bar 3x5 seconds @90º and the same at 120º. Did this with 108kg.
Rings - pushups, rows, pike pushups, I's Y's T's.
Mobility - 15 minutes hip flexibility
Thursday
Nothing
Friday
Hangs - 4x7 seconds 1 arm hangs @ 69kg. This felt quite easy, so I had a quick look at whether I could hang bodyweight and managed a PB of hanging 77.3kg.
https://youtu.be/V3B6sHaSZ7A
Board - Did one of the boulders I couldn't do the crux of on Monday, and another one I'd failed on last week. Made some progress on a couple of harder ones, but still can't do the crux of either.
https://youtu.be/0nlA7lA9JZs
Mobility - 30 mins Hip Flexibility
Saturday
Skipped plan of doing AnCap
Sunday
Attempted to go to Mabley Green - a granite boulder in the middle of an East London park. I guess I should have predicted this, but it was rammed. I felt like it would be a bit irresponsible to join the tightly packed crowd of 30 or so people so headed home. Will give it another go early on a weekday instead.
Mobility - 15 minutes hip flexibility
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M - warming up by 7:30, set off before sunrise, starting drizzling before I arrived at car aprk but headed in anyway convincing myself the wind was drying stuff. It wasn't, returned home did some deadhanging.
Stretch eve
T Tried again after dadschool. Proj A still too wet, B still too hard.
W - rehab push weights. Stretch
Th mono pickups,
F - conditioning. Big stretch eve
S 30 mins LI
S family walk, stretch
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STG - 2-3 7B+ in Q1 and some progress on a 7C. If weather cooperates. Stick to fingerboarding if it doesn't.
MTG - get on a rope for some hardish (> F7b) things this year.
LTG - figure out an LTG.
Anxiously awaiting Coops' entry for some top-grade jealousy.
Monday - Nothing, I think.
Tuesday
Evening lamp session at Burbage North, Zaff Skoczylas Sit. Burnt through a lot of skin on many attempts where I couldn't even make the move out to the right crimp, then realised that I could rotate my left hand a tiny amount to take the mono at a slightly different angle. This somehow made a huge difference and I could basically do the move every time. Promptly made it through the hard bit, got pumped on the easy bit and fell off - doh. Tore a small hole in my skin from the mono and called it a day.
Wednesday - Possibly nothing again. :spank:
Thursday
Slightly Submaximal HangsTM. Up to ~88 kg total load at 76 kg bodyweight. Felt right at the limit on the last rep, but have succeeded on this weight 3 times, so time to up it a little.
Friday - Chilled walk around Ecclesall Woods with the girlfriend.
Saturday
Hangs, pullups and pushups.
Hangs raised total load to 89 kg and managed it, happy days.
Pullups went to 89 kg total and could just about do 3x7. Was a bit stronger on these previously, but actually only think I've lost a few kg of load and a rep or two since May when I could last be bothered, so surprisingly not that bad.
Pushups - did a bunch of sets while gaming/otherwise doing fuck all on the computer, 150 in mostly sets of 20.
Sunday
Afternoon session at Burbage North (haven't dared to venture out of South Yorkshire yet). Had a few goes at Monochrome, but the guy I was climbing with had a dodgy left leg which made the heel hook a no-go. Move on to Zaff Skoczylas Sit again, and happily managed it first go of the day, feeling pretty solid on the hardest moves at the bottom and only slightly fluffing the sequence at the top. First 7B+ of the year, and first 7B+ that isn't Deliverance at 6'2".
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Anxiously awaiting Coops' entry for some top-grade jealousy.
There's a world class 7A in this weeks instalment :popcorn:
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What hip mobility do you do csl? (Strong hangs!)
Weight 75.9 (Sun eve)
M - warmup. core (front levers, 30 ab roll), stretch, tried some 1 arm hangs but didn't feel it.
Tu- home fb warm u then tried first arete, good connies but shut down. Ilkley Lamps. Repeated a 6C on the back of the calf and worked clasic calf. Did all the moves.
We- two rounds of warm up, light core and stretching
Thu - lunchtime walk, and a bosh up on the moor in the eve in the snow.
Fri- dumbell (curls, oh press, bench, kickbacks, bent over flys). fingerboard max hang benchmarking session. Built up to 17.5 kg on bm 2k crimps, ran out of weight. Did the same with 3 fingers. Felt v v hard but doable. Tried middle two fingers on the big 2 finger pockets and could hang for 10 seconds, again felt nails but went. Keen for some more 2 finger hangs I think. Too tight to buy any weight. IF anyone wants to give me some just shout...
Sat- 30 pressups and a stroll
Sun - Ilkley, got up classic calf (YYFY) dropped the jug once before I did it though! Also ticked another new 7A eliminate. Saw a guy do the traverse and it looks good. Had a play and got to the technical crux ish. Tried another 7A eliminate and got shut down. Did almost pleasant to the wet end first go, which is pleasing.
Not the best training week, but managed to do something every day and plenty of stretching. Still feel like I am finding my feet with finger boarding, and wish I had more weight but can't really justify buying any.
Keen to try the calf traverse, and will return for more eliminate action. Still not put any time into a 7C, there are probably some to do on the calf, keen for ringpiece but it has been sogged recently.
Trying to lose some chub, so going to track weight for a bit. More keen to just not eat shit than actually lose too much, but I think one will achieve the other!
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What hip mobility do you do csl? (Strong hangs!)
Thanks pal!
I used to just google and do random ones but seem to have settled into doing this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_yk_EMQDM_Q
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Sun - Ilkley, got up classic calf (YYFY) dropped the jug once before I did it though! Also ticked another new 7A eliminate. Saw a guy do the traverse and it looks good. Had a play and got to the technical crux ish.
Pick up any beta on how to do the crux of the traverse? I've never been able to figure out a workable way of getting to the big jug in the middle (seem to remember crossing through with LH to take a sharp sidepull as a backhand, flicking out to a horizontal pinch with the RH, and then utterly failing to go-again with the RH to the jug).
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Cheers csl, i'll give it a whirl.
Beta for the traverse seemed to be go high. Get the LH sidepull gaston hold (above 30 in the guide) then go up for a crimpy thing (40 in the acd guide I think), then bump again to more sidepully hold just right, left hand up to the crimpy thing, then drop down to the jug.
I was dropping going up for the crimp on my best go, only had a few goes on it though. Hope that makes sense!
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Cheers, I've retrieved my copy of ACD - I don't recall ever seeing a crimpy thing (40) above the pinch I had been using (39 in ACD, I think). It's probably selective blindness on my part - subconscious desire to avoid the risk of "cheating" by going too high on "the mid-height traverse" (I'm always making life difficult for myself that way - like I'm trying to refute my own height!).
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There is some chalk on it now, so if you go up soon, it should make sense. Maybe... The crimpy thing is above the left hand gaston. Pretty much.
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11.7-9 Average 162.5 (down 1.3lbs)
M. Raining. Aborted power pull-ups session due to lack of power on first set. Went for a 2 hour walk at Burbage with dogs and daughter and got drenched.
T. Blue skies. PM Home FB warm up then Anston to reacquaint myself with Soul Crusher. A little damp but dryable. Shortish session. Managed the crux after several attempts but with less trauma than usual. Didn’t manage the other two hard moves. Felt like body was holding out on me and not giving 100%
W. Lunch. Psyched myself up and had enough power this time to do power pull-ups session. 5 sets of 4 Fast pull ups with +10lbs. Chest to bar 18x. PB. Thought I’d cusped so that was good.
PM Max weighted deadhangs on ergo edge. Good scores. Best +30kg x 9 secs
T. 1.5 hour snowy dog walk
F. Lunch. 1 set of recruitment pulls and 1 set of speed pulls. PM Had planned on Burb but concerned melt might have started. Left S10 in sunshine and arrived at Anston in freezing fog. Was dry under the roof at Woodys. Quickly did the crux move again in isolation and got to work on the second move. Knacky and powerful if weak like me. Repeatedly got the slot but didn’t hold it. Core felt solid though. Struggled to stay warm. Fed a robin.
S. PM systems board. Gaston sequence twice. One set of 3 goes on PE sequence. Failed first go second set. Tried a set of 20/10s timing 2 secs per move for first 60 moves but didn’t make it to end of set. Must have been tired.
S. Eve. Borrowed a pair of Tommy’s old running shoes and ran for 30 mins for Sharkathon. Awful
Shame not to have another go at Blind Date this week. First week of weight loss for 3 months. Cant decide whether to have an easy week or not.
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Re: Calf eliminates. ACD guides are pretty hard to come by nowadays. If one of you locals wanted to do a photo topo eliminates guide it might make a nice addition to Unknown Stones?
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I've lost my ACD. Sounds like good lockdown procrastination though. When I get a good enough photo I will do it, unless someone longer term local fancies it.
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M - 8k run, flat, pavement. So much easier than my normal loop (hilly, off road). 40 min which I'm happy with, especially it was a new route so there was a fair bit of stopping to check the map.
T - stretching, mostly shoulders and hips. 30 wide press ups
W - 5k run, flat, pavement. Shorter version of Monday's run. 25 min, OK but didnt push too hard as could still feel monday in the legs.
T - nothing
F - 40 min cycle for errands, 90 min walk with daughter.
S - 2.5 hrs easy cycle with daughter, 2 hrs wrestling with tarps to try and make the board waterproof.
S - AM 20 min shoulder rehab - need to be more disciplined about doing this regularly. PM, board session! So psyched to be back on it, 90 min feeling surprisingly good, repeated a lot of benchmarks and matched my highpoint on a project. 30 min cycle to drop daughter in eve.
70.5kg (Av). Actually back down to 70kg last couple of days which is pleasing as the last kilo of Christmas was proving more stubborn than I'd hoped.
Good week, good to get a road route sorted for running as my normal route is a mudbath atm. Usually avoid running on tarmac and could feel it in my calves but needs must. Really happy to have the board up and (hopefully) weatherproof, I originally built it to be taken down after each session (its outside, and blocks the view from one end of our living room where my gf was sat to wfh). This worked OK in lockdown 1 until the walls opened again, but in the autumn with unhelpful weather I was just never psyched enough to bother with the effort of putting it up when the narrow windows of dry weather coincided with me wanting to train. With some decent tarps I'm hopeful that it can be left up now until the walls reopen, so should see a lot more use.
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Thurs: Fitness challenge thing I have seen going round. 100x pull ups, sit ups, squats, push ups in as little time as possible. I decided to try it in 5 sets of 20 of each. This was one of the most horrendous experiences of my life, and it was pure will power that got me through the last 2 sets. In the end I put up the extremely non-competitive time of 29:23, before lying on the sofa for 50 minutes drifting in and out of consciousness. Made me realise how unfit I was
These things are all relative but I'd say being able to do 100 of each in a day puts you outside the "unfit" category, let alone within half an hour.
Interesting thread here (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,28557.0.html) comparing pull-ups-in-a-set ability with bouldering grade. 20 put you in the upper half I think.
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W/C 11/1/21
M - Abs, run, chest, fingers benchmarking, yoga
T - Run, abs, yoga, triceps, repeaters
W - Walk, abs/core, pull-ups, pinches/monos, yoga
T - Walk, abs, yoga, biceps, more yoga
F - Walk, abs, shoulders, pinches and monos, yoga
S - Walk, abs, yoga
S - Walk, abs, yoga
Week 2 in Lockdown and hopefully can maintain my enthusiasm.
M - Start with planks. 2 minutes in post man rings door bell and attempt one abhorred, 10 minutes rest, attempt 2 manage to drag myself over 5 minutes with the battle beginning around 4:15. 4x20 second hanging L sits followed by 4x15 one legged tucked levers. 3x50 Russian twists with a 10k weight is next. A triset then of 3x60 seconds of high side planks on each side and hollow body. Finish with 100 paused reps with the abs roller.
Try to go for a run and for the first time since July I actually manage it. 5k, a slow time but no bits broke and I went out when the weather was brutal, so happy.
Chest in the afternoon. Start with 10x10 deficit press-ups à la GVT. Move on to 4x8 floor flys with 10ks and then 3x10 floor press with kettlebells. Next do some band work with 3x8 superset of band flys and band presses and then some band pull aparts for 4x6. Finish on TRX with flys with a hold for 4x6.
Run through finger strength benchmarking exercise and pleased to see improvement in every combination and grip.
Yoga for flexibility followed by a session with the massage gun.
Felt like a good productive day.
T - Another 5k run in the morning and whilst I’m slow, it feels comfortable enough and legs are okay.
For abs start with 3x3 minute planks with same rest between. First one easy enough, second becomes hard just after two minutes and third becomes a battle from about half way. 60 paused Abs roller reps and some of the laying about with core sliders to finish abs/core work.
Today’s yoga is hip and adductor focused but also spends more time on relaxation than I usually do, which is probably beneficial.
Weights is tricep based today. Start with 10x10 overhead goblet presses. Move on to 3x8 single dumbbell skull crushers. Next up is 3x10 close grip presses with a 15k dumbbell al a very slow pace means a light weight feels pretty hard work. 3x10 overhead tricep extensions. 3x8 bodyweight skull crushers and finish triceps with 3x12 chair dips. Do a little bit of work on one legged squats. Shrimp squat is pretty solid but pistol squat is a bit shaken to say the least, so something else to work on.
Do a set of repeaters. Work through all my grip types and use the harder holds on all sets, solid on all except on 45° slopers, which I have never been able to hold on my own BM but can on most others (possibly not helped by set up being 2° off vertical). Finish on a full set on 8mm crimps, so plan to stick with this for a bit, aiming to hit the 6mm in the next 6 weeks, will also start adding weight on some of sets that I’m most solid at.
W - Not wishing to push leg too hard decide that today’s 5k will be an early morning walk, which was nice and quiet.
Get home and start on abs/core work. Manage to eke out another 30 seconds to hit a 5:30 plank but more importantly am much more comfortable up to 5 minutes. Next do 4x20 second L sit hangs followed by three straddled levers to failure which is about 8 seconds and then 3x15 seconds levers with one leg tucked. As said in a thread on here, most definitely works the lats. Then based on another thread I try some TRX Ts, using a set up above rather than behind me and manage 5x5. I also discover that I can’t use the same set up for Is as it topples the A frame that I’m using. Finish core type stuff with 4x25 abs roller reps, which really doesn’t feel too hard these days.
Main weights training today is pull-up and back based. Start with 5x5 weighted pull-ups with 20k. Next is OAP work, RH unsupported, LH -5k, do 5 singles on each arm and then 5 unsupported negatives on LH, to try to redress the imbalance. Offset pull-ups for 5x5 on each arm with a defect of 15 inches. Next is single arm locks at full lock (hand in sling), 90° and 120° for three sets of each and 5 seconds per set. Finish with 3x10 close grip pull-ups.
Pinches and monos today. Start on square block for 6x5 seconds, last set is a failing 22k. On flared block work up to 16k. Go through my 3x5 mono routine on each finger, reaching 34k on final set. Will consolidate here for a few sessions I think. With the first pad mono stuff do 3x5 seconds on each with 18k on index, 24k on middle and 16k on ring and pinkie. All feel comfortable enough whilst still take a good deal of effort.
Yoga today is a good session on hip mobility. There is loads of really good stuff online and have never liked flexibility training but this makes it pretty interesting and worth sticking with.
T - Snowy day so keeping the walking going, same route as yesterday although takes me nearly ten minutes longer, good to be out though.
Easier abs session today. Start with 10x1 minute plank with a minute rest between each set. Then do 50 steady abs roller reps and a bit of core sliders work.
This morning’s yoga session focuses on upper back as felt a bit tight during my walk this morning, presumably due to yesterday’s effort.
Repeater session at lunchtime and do the same as I did on Tuesday. Decide to rough the surface of the 45° sloper to at least give me a chance of holding them, reckon I can always sand them later if I ever need to.
Afternoon weights session of bicep work. Start with 3x6 standing strict one arm curls. Move on to barbell curls for 3x10, quick on the way up, slow on the way down. Drag curls for 3x10 supersetting with seated curls also for 3x10. Using a foam block and the bed, manage to rig a set up that allows me to do incline curls for 3x8. Finish with 3x12 goblet curls.
Get bored late afternoon so do another yoga session, this time for hip and hamstring flexibility.
F - 5k walk on icy pavements, a couple of slips and really very unpleasant.
Manage a 6 minute plank, solid to 5 minutes but full body shake going on by the end. 4x20 second hanging L sits, which the L bit is improving as I do more and more work on hamstring flexibility. Move on to levers, two sets of straddled legs and two of full lever which are only a handful of seconds but form is good. Next is 100 paused reps on the abs roller. 4x25 windscreen wipers to finish off session.
Move on to prone Ts, Ys and Is with overhead TRX set up each for 5x5. Follow this with the same but supine, which is with the TRX fixed at the top of a door and much more horizontal. Next is 3x6 single arm strict shoulder press with 15k. Then lateral raises for 3x8 with 10k and 3x10 alternating front raises for 3x10. 3x12 face pulls with a band for rear delts. On to a superset of single arm lateral raises and band front raises for 3x10 on each arm and each exercise. Finish shoulder work with 3x8 scap raises. Pinches and monos routine. Square block 6x5 seconds with last 4 sets at 22k, which today, unlike Wednesday, is solid. On flared block manage all 6 sets at 16k for 5 seconds. On the monos use 34k and do 4 sets of 5 seconds on each finger with Ash’s mono trainer. With first joint stuff start with 3x5 seconds on middle finger with 26k weight, then same on index finger with 20k and 18k for the ring finger and pinkie.
Today’s yoga session is based around the neck, upper back and shoulders and feels great.
Finish off with massage gun on legs and then upper body.
S - 8k walk in the morning, trying not to slip.
Easy 50 reps on the abs roller. Quite a long yoga session working on passive hip mobility. Finish with a quick play with elbow planche, which is improving.
S - 5k walk and the world looks very different. A beautiful morning.
For abs, back on the 3x12 abs roll outs off my feet.
Yoga session is core based today.
A pretty easy day, just enough to keep me happy but a rest day in reality.
Enthusiasm remains high and feels like I am making progress in a number of areas, weight is down and sticking with the routine is definitely helping me keep positive about stuff. Fingers crossed can turn these gains into functional improvements when I get out again.
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M - Rest
T - Trail run 10.28km 305m. Shoulder stability, recruitment and core (0.5 units). 25 travelling pull ups, 5 sets of 2 sling assisted one armers, 5 sets of 1 pulley assisted one armers (1 unit).
W - Trail run 11.85km 328m.
T - Pulley assisted one arm hangs - Beastmaker central slot (0.5 units).
F - Weighted 2 arms hangs up to 5 x 20kg for 10s (0.5 units).
S - Weighted pullups (3 x 3 24kg, 3 x 5 15kg, 3 x 8 10kg). (1 unit).
S - Pulley assisted one arm hangs - Beastmaker central slot (0.5 units). Finger board offset pullups (3 x 3 30mm, 3 x 5 18mm, 3 x 8 15mm) (1 unit).
I only managed 5 out 7 planned training units this week. From Thursday onwards I developed really acute sciatica and could barely walk. Upper body work was still painful but possible so at least I finished all the strength units I planned and missed the general mobility stuff as getting down onto the ground and back up again is extremely arduous and painful! Seeing gains with most of my strength exercises apart from weighted pull ups where I have gone backwards. I find this strength as my one arm strength on both sides has increased :shrug:. Hopefully, I can manage all 7 units this week including swapping in a unit of PE (repeaters). The sciatica is still causing a lack of sleep but it seems to be easing today and I have more mobility and stretching and ball rolling help. Running might have to be put on hold until at least next weekend.
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M - Max hangs. Started out with L@-19kg, R@-17kg like last time and then sacked it off after three reps. Just seems like I'm making no progress with these, probably not strong enough yet to get the most out of them. Reverted to two arm hangs which I was making progress with before. Should probably have kept with them but fancied a change. 3 x +22kg. Then an hour on the board projects, alright. Finished with 50 leg raises, 100 bicycle crunches.
T - 30 minute run, 100 press ups.
W - Max hangs @ +23kg. All complete, equalling my previous best session so nice to see I haven't gone backwards from a couple of months ago at least. Then making and playing on a new circuit on the board. 30 moves, probably somewhere in the 7c-8a region but so hard to know with these things. Bar core to finish with.
T - Rest.
F - Max hangs @ +24kg. Fail on last reps so same again next time. Feeling tired so just 3 x 1.20 on/1.10 off aerocap to finish with.
S - An hours board session. Again, alright. Slowly making progress on a longish term project. Offset pull ups to finish with.
S - AM, session on new circuit I made up on Wednesday. 7 times with a minute rest halfway and 5 minutes between circuits. PM, 30 minute run.
At the start of winter I drew up a plan which I was following religiously. Initially this was great but got a bit wearing after a while. I'm still sticking to it as an outline, but have been a bit more freestyle week to week with what I do recently, going on what I fancy and making up mini goals/challenges. Seems to have refreshed me a bit.
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A good week, seem to have added 10% to my 1 arm max since the start of November.
Please tell me that the pull up bar to which the BM and the rings are attached is fixed, and not simply jammed to the doorframe.
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It's one of these cantilever doorframe ones (https://powerballs.com/shop/best-door-pull-up-bar) - on the back it hooks over the top of the frame and presses against the wall
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Thursday
Slightly Submaximal HangsTM.
:2thumbsup:
Pull HarderTM next time ;)
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Really scraping the barrel for psyche at the moment. A combination of lousy weather and instructions to stay local, which I think has gone out of the window now for a lot of climbers. Haven't done any real training or structured exercise since about Christmas. Need to whip myself into shape a bit. I can't see much getting ticked over the winter season so might as well try and focus on fitness for getting on the ropes.
Tu - Lamp sesh at Gilstead Crag. Did Slap-addict-omy both ways at 6B and 6C+, then Insignifibloc with better beta at about 6C+. Then Photo Finish at 7A which was nice.
Su - Trip to Ruin Bank for the project that I'd swept the top of. It was soaking. Not sure whether the clumps of pine needles that I dislodged might have been acting as an umbrella! I was probably just being very overoptimistic about how fast it would dry. Received some intel that Armistice at Baildon might be dry but connies didn't feel great so decided the best use of time was probably some shovelling on a new buttress that I'd spotted at another local locale. The buttress is about 4.5m high at it's tallest point and overhangs slightly. There's a nice rib/arete with attractive pockets, a hanging hand-crack, an overhanging wall on slopers, a little slabby scoop with an undercut start, and a few other things to do. I'd spotted this during the summer but the top was covered in muck and brambles with goop running down part of the face. I took a spade and stripped back the mud and vegetation by about 1.5m and did what I could to get the moss off the face. It now needs some heavy rain and dry weather to clear the displaced soil off the face and dry out the wall. Maybe one for spring? Could be tricky to get connies on it. The base is the bed of what was in the 1800s an ornamental pond, which must have been fed from somewhere. It's all dry now but the buttress might sit in the drainage line. Could be quite seepy.
Just about had time to visit the Glen on the way home and pop up Sleeping Beauty which was well worth seeking out.
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:2thumbsup:
Pull HarderTM next time ;)
Hahaha, that's the plan! Just need to maintain the psyche...
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Like Will am finding the current state of affairs a total psyche drain, and the prospect of no material change for months is not helping.
M - Think I did some stretching, but hard to remember.
T - max hangs. Appalling, sacked it off quite quickly. Stability hangs were ok though. Did some TRX to finish and found I could get a bit closer to horizontal than I thought, but WFH desk gets in the way a bit.
W - Did core, which was a triumph of motivation over sloth. Easier than last week. Need to start doing some bar core really as I think I will be even worse at that than floor core. Stretching after.
T - repeaters. An improvement on last week's Anderson hangs, succeeding at 2.5kg added baseweight on all three edges.
F - nothing
S - nothing
S - went out. Struggled in the cold and numbed out frequently. Got up nothing. A few awkward falls which rattled my cage a bit causing a stiff neck.
Not a great week for either training or climbing. Like Will I want to hit the ground running on the ropes when we are allowed out again but its a struggle at the moment.
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I want to hit the ground running on the ropes
Not literally I hope! :)
Hang in guys, It's a crappy time at the moment, seek happiness where you find it.
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Like Will am finding the current state of affairs a total psyche drain, and the prospect of no material change for months is not helping.
If it helps*, the combo of injury (can't train properly), a weird flare-up of other swelling (has happened before and been undiagnosed, GP thought rheumatoid arthritis but rheumatology weren't sure.. means I can't even rehab the injury properly), and a lack of alternative releases (partying not allowed, good-for-the-soul soloing seems irresponsible etc.) has me at my least psyched since starting climbing ~15yrs ago. Think I'm up to around half a dozen days in 2021 where I've said something along the lines of "I'd quit climbing if I could think of something else to do with my life". Which isn't great given we're only 18 days into the new year :'(
*obviously it may not help, but sometimes knowing others are in a similar boat is of some solace!
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Today is the day known as Blue Monday... so its a shite time of year without covid (Barrows & SM). That said....
The great Satan that is road cycling must be rubbing his hands in glee at all possible new recruits coming his way :D
(Even I have looked at my bike in the last week... not got as far as pumping up the tyres though... the dark side hasnt taken me yet)
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The great Satan that is road cycling must be rubbing his hands in glee at all possible new recruits coming his way :D
Haha, one of the climbing "old boys" was recommending that to me the other day when I bumped into them in the supermarket queue...
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Current positives for you Will:
Days are getting longer
Ab ripper x is still available
I will buy you a non fruit based desert if you can hold a from lever for 10 seconds.
Get some techno on and get on the board.
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Get the running shoes on. Even if it's not what you want to, you might even start enjoying it!
I also thought about getting the road bike out but apparently some crappy conditions exist in random places, stories I've heard is this was from black ice https://www.dailyrecord.co.uk/news/scottish-news/road-tragedy-cyclist-dies-after-23326966
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The great Satan that is road cycling must be rubbing his hands in glee at all possible new recruits coming his way :D
Haha, one of the climbing "old boys" was recommending that to me the other day when I bumped into them in the supermarket queue...
Non impact - restricted distance of movement - bursts of effort (like HIIT) - sounds great.
If there was no-one else on the road I'd love it - last time I went out I just got too angry with every other fucker on the road... Given my lockdown augmented propensity to get cross at the moment - I'd probably cycle a mile then get in a fight :D
Still - fighting's exercise right? :)
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Think I'm up to around half a dozen days in 2021 where I've said something along the lines of "I'd quit climbing if I could think of something else to do with my life". Which isn't great given we're only 18 days into the new year :'(
(https://knkpwr.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/men_42.jpg)
Here you go. No need to sell all your climbing gear either...
https://www.theguardian.com/stage/2016/jan/21/shibari-pushing-boundaries-in-the-ancient-japanese-practice-of-knot-tying (https://www.theguardian.com/stage/2016/jan/21/shibari-pushing-boundaries-in-the-ancient-japanese-practice-of-knot-tying)
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Get the running shoes on. Even if it's not what you want to, you might even start enjoying it!
It’s funny how people who are into running seem to assume that people who aren’t just haven’t tried it and don’t know what they’re missing 😄
Did find this vid of Barrows out for a jog though
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0ltv7VXKSRE
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Running is the absolute pits. Fortunately, whenever I try it I go for a few miles before getting massive knee pain, so I have a great excuse to never do it again. (I think somebody said it might be a "tracking" issue. No idea what that means.)
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I'm not assuming anything. For the first few months I hated it, each and every single step, but I persevered (to be fair because I had an event to train for), but until I reached fitness level where I could do 1about 10km in about an hour without resting did I actually start enjoying it. Once beyond that point everything changed.
Tracking probably means glutes not firing, weak adductors, could be anything. I expect you are swinging your leg out to the side to compensate.
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I actually quite like running, but my legs make my fingers look indestructible (did quite a bit as a teenager, had issues with ankles, knees, shins and then a stress fractured tibia). If I want to do anything more than a 15min jog I'd need to work up very slowly!
I'm not entirely sure how to respond to Yoss's post.. :blink:
Did find this vid of Barrows out for a jog though
This is more my vibe:
https://youtu.be/gSh1eLrxiqs?t=88
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Think I'm up to around half a dozen days in 2021 where I've said something along the lines of "I'd quit climbing if I could think of something else to do with my life". Which isn't great given we're only 18 days into the new year :'(
(https://knkpwr.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/men_42.jpg)
Here you go. No need to sell all your climbing gear either...
https://www.theguardian.com/stage/2016/jan/21/shibari-pushing-boundaries-in-the-ancient-japanese-practice-of-knot-tying (https://www.theguardian.com/stage/2016/jan/21/shibari-pushing-boundaries-in-the-ancient-japanese-practice-of-knot-tying)
Is he looking at an open Wiggle catalog?
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Not sure exactly what was done on each day as my diary app has locked me out!
average weight: 84kg
2 board sessions. Don't really feel like i'm making progress here, but it's keeping me ticking over while psych is low. It's hard to get motivated when my board is semi outdoors (open my garage doors and put one mat in the garage and another on the drive over a foot of snow!).
1 fingerboard session. Not good enough, last week I said these need to be more frequent so next week I will do at least 3 sessions on this.
1 gymnast rings session. These are built off the side of my house, so I was grabbing frozen rings but managed a PB of 2-and-a-half-almost-3 one armers on the right and 2 on the left, which was surprising as this was after dinner, wearing a coat, boots and probably weighing close to 90kg! Moved on to front lever pulls in advanced tuck position, ring turn out dips (I'd estimate a good form RTO dip is equivalent to a regular dip + approx. 1/3 body weight for anyone who has rings but no weights), wall handstand pressups (chest facing wall). Finished off with a non stop set of muscle ups to failure, straight into pull ups to failure, planche pressups to failure, regular pressups to failure. Destroyed. Stopped working core independently as I get the best gains from just climbing on the board? No lower body work this week, oops.
0.5-1 hour stretching routine every other night. Getting close to a full front fold.
3 skateboard sessions under a covered carpark. 2nd week in. Frontside 180's, backside 180's (ish), and 50-50 grind on a knee height ledge, psyched!
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This is more my vibe:
https://youtu.be/gSh1eLrxiqs?t=88
Couple of recent runs have been like that. I did go down like a sack of spuds on an icy pavement in November, no idea how I didn't hurt anything (break a hip at my age!).
If you have concerns, there are some amazing super cushioned trainers out there these days. Things like the Hoka Clifton have been the saviour of a few people I know with continuous injury issues.
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Haha, one of the climbing "old boys" was recommending that to me the other day when I bumped into them in the supermarket queue...
I hate that cycling has robbed me of so many former climbing partners :furious:
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Given my lockdown augmented propensity to get cross at the moment - I'd probably cycle a mile then get in a fight :D
And that's just with other cyclists!
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I hate that cycling has robbed me of so many former climbing partners :furious:
Could be you’ve driven them to it? ;)
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Quoting fail above... (sorry)
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If it helps*, the combo of injury (can't train properly), a weird flare-up of other swelling (has happened before and been undiagnosed, GP thought rheumatoid arthritis but rheumatology weren't sure.. means I can't even rehab the injury properly), and a lack of alternative releases (partying not allowed, good-for-the-soul soloing seems irresponsible etc.) has me at my least psyched since starting climbing ~15yrs ago. Think I'm up to around half a dozen days in 2021 where I've said something along the lines of "I'd quit climbing if I could think of something else to do with my life". Which isn't great given we're only 18 days into the new year :'(
*obviously it may not help, but sometimes knowing others are in a similar boat is of some solace!
I'm sure its not an uncommon feeling! January is so fucking grim anyway its probably mostly that, but as you say at least in a normal January the pub would be open! I've also had a recurrence of an old tweak recently, I think the cold and my poor circulation is to blame.
I just bought myself an ab wheel so now I have a new toy in the evenings at least.
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Power Club
Mon - snatch and ab rolls. Hard.
Tue - rest.
Wed - fingers, system session.
Thu - weights, snatch rack pulls, DL, kettlebell Tabata 20kg.
Fri - rest.
Sat - weights and pull ups outside then hill sprints, in freezing temps and under the most gorgeous winter night sky.
Sun - tired, TBDL 100 kg 5x5, then loaded carries 30/30 x12.
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It's one of these cantilever doorframe ones (https://powerballs.com/shop/best-door-pull-up-bar) - on the back it hooks over the top of the frame and presses against the wall
You are very brave.
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I'm sure its not an uncommon feeling! January is so fucking grim anyway its probably mostly that, but as you say at least in a normal January the pub would be open!
What usually gets me through is I have my annual escape to the Alps with my brother in mid Jan away from work and family and that's not happening. Plus it's been dumping it down there makes it doubly painful.
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It's one of these cantilever doorframe ones (https://powerballs.com/shop/best-door-pull-up-bar) - on the back it hooks over the top of the frame and presses against the wall
You are very brave.
I appreciate the concern, but I'm comfortable with my own risk assessment of this. If the system fails when I'm hanging then I land on my feet or knees and maybe get a bump on my head from the fingerboard. I can't/don't do anything (front levers etc) which could result in me falling onto my back or head in the event of failure. So there's both small risk, and small consequence :)
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M: Back on the fingerboard - been a while... Warmup (30 mins), test max hangs - 19mm campus rung (Metolious wood grips??) only had 8kg hanging around, managed 20+s.. bit too light. Need to get some more weights...BM Repeater session 1 set - 4 finger hc, 4 finger drag, 3 finger hc, mid 2 deep pockets... Good start, felt good.
T: Easy bouldering and soloing @ Burbage with daughter...
W: SNOW DAY!! Snowboarding down meersbrook park - ace!
T: SNOW DAY!! Great to be on the board but getting tired of the walk up the hill!
F: Watched Dave Mac's vid on fingerboarding - Warmup (30 mins) Tried max hangs with fewer fingers on each hand - HC one hand - mid 2 other.. 10s LH, 8s RH - Intensity seemed right but think I failed to rest enough as I'm usually stronger on RH - Think I'll get some more weights as seems more measurable. BM Repeater sesh same as Monday but did 2 sets. Trashed!
S: Rest
S: Blackberry wall traversing... Was cold and damp but just planned to do a bit of movement training... All went awry when I felt a tweak in my LH index finger... Felt fine to pull on so carried on for a while longer ensuring that I maintained good form and didn't shock load as couldn't be sure it wasn't just the cold... Should have stopped sooner as finger felt much more tender than expected when I got home - absolutely gutted!!
Arse, arse, arse!! Finger's definitely tweaked! Not sure exactly what.. Stiff this morning... Thinking A2 as pain is in lower part of finger but not localised and doesn't seem to be significantly painful to hold a crimp position (unloaded)... Ice, Ibuprofen and rest for a few days to see what gives then will make a plan... Read finger section of Dave Mac's book... Grrrrrr :wall:
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If it helps*, the combo of injury (can't train properly), a weird flare-up of other swelling (has happened before and been undiagnosed, GP thought rheumatoid arthritis but rheumatology weren't sure.. means I can't even rehab the injury properly), and a lack of alternative releases (partying not allowed, good-for-the-soul soloing seems irresponsible etc.) has me at my least psyched since starting climbing ~15yrs ago. Think I'm up to around half a dozen days in 2021 where I've said something along the lines of "I'd quit climbing if I could think of something else to do with my life". Which isn't great given we're only 18 days into the new year :'(
*obviously it may not help, but sometimes knowing others are in a similar boat is of some solace!
I'm sure its not an uncommon feeling! January is so fucking grim anyway its probably mostly that, but as you say at least in a normal January the pub would be open! I've also had a recurrence of an old tweak recently, I think the cold and my poor circulation is to blame.
I just bought myself an ab wheel so now I have a new toy in the evenings at least.
There's a lot of this going round, just seeing bad news constantly has an effect and you have to remember we're living through (hopefully) a once in a lifetime shit storm. Point being, give yourself a break and just do what you can :thumbsup:
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Unlike almost everyone else on this thread, I am fully suffused with syke. This may be because I live on the climbing equivalent of the far side of the moon and, without all the distractions of other people going climbing when I can't, I've been able to fully channel all my new year good intentions. Anyway...
M: 8km run / assisted one arms / weighted wide grips / hammer curls, various rings and squats / front lever progression / prone shoulder circuit / 10sec 1/2 crimp repeaters
T: Some stretching, prolonged DIY session including lengthy tumbler dryer dismantle to replace broken drive belt YYFY
W: 8km run / max hangs / aero repeaters / yoga / stretching
T: Core / stretching / yoga
F: 8km run / assisted 1 arm / curls and row / z-press / front lever prog / various rings / prone shoulder circuit
S: Long beach walk, plus various core / stretching
S: 3.5hr walk
Down 5kg since start of Jan. Would be cool to manage 10 by the end of the month.
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Unlike almost everyone else on this thread, I am fully suffused with syke.
Says the man who also goes running ;).
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M - 8k run, flat, pavement. So much easier than my normal loop (hilly, off road). 40 min which I'm happy with, especially it was a new route so there was a fair bit of stopping to check the map.
...
W - 5k run, flat, pavement. Shorter version of Monday's run. 25 min, OK but didnt push too hard as could still feel monday in the legs.
...
Just checked and Mondays run was actually 10k, and Wednesdays was 7k. Much happier with times!
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Down 5kg since start of Jan. Would be cool to manage 10 by the end of the month.
Super impressive. No wonder you're psyched. Have you lost weight at that rate before? It doesn’t sound sustainable.
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I’ve done it in 2 previous Januaries. Both (as this year) starting from over 100kg. 2017 was 110kg max to 95 by end of March IIRC. Personally, I think when you’re both quite tall and heavy that you can get away with losing more per week than for example someone who’s fairly slim and 60something kg. I wanted to kickstart things, but will probably slow it down a bit before too long.
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Cool. Was worried it would lead to burnout but as you’ve been there before ignore me.
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M: 100 press-ups in 10 different variations. Shoulder press, lateral raise
T: Clear Creek Canyon. Went to Seeing Squiggles boulder to check out Recession Proof. FA graded it V10 but has settled at hard V9. Interesting to start trying boulders above my limit again - I'm not very good at it… Did all moves but the two crux moves (first two moves). Got close on both but need to return with better finger strength. Moved onto Wave Wall, crossing some very sketchy ice (frozen river making alarming noises as we crossed). Managed to fire off a high-ish ball V6 called The Wright. Really cool, video does not do it justice in the slightest. Felt fairly safe apart from the snowy top holds
https://youtu.be/JrsOJRb_VyE
W: Legs. Leg press, calf raise, hamstring curl, knee extensions X15 *2sets. Leg exercises.
T: Drive to Moab
F: Indian Creek. Straight to Airwolf V6-ish. What an amazing piece of rock, warmed up and slowly made it higher and higher, with each fall bigger than the last. So psyched to get up it, apologies to your eardrums if you watch the vid with sound… Definitely one of (if not) the best boulder I have ever climbed! Grade-wise it felt pretty stiff - a taste of things to come. Took a while to find other boulders in the Creek, most were a bit chossy. Tried Split Boulder, an amazing high technical barn-doory V6 arete - not my style. Was psyched and got so so close but ended up walking away. Lots more exploring but couldn't find anything else we were looking for
S: Started off at Zen Garden Cave home to the Dean Potter huge roof-crack, Zen Garden V10. That thing is so long so we tried the V6 (another sandbag) to the right, China Buffet. Pretty high, with the crux at the top. Really really good. Moved on to Big Bend and got on Circus Trick V5 (used to be called V4, still nails at V5). Amazing moves the whole way up and topless bouldering in January! Finished the day on Block Party V5 which was cool, ripped off the flash with a #Nathaniel to get it second go
S: Unaweep Canyon. Stopped off at Unaweep (near Grand Junction) on the way home, chasing rumours of softer grades. These turned out to be true and the downgrading mission commenced. Flashed Ninja Estrogen Tricks (V6 -> V5), sent Chinese Algebra (V6 -> V5) which was very good. Moved onto Goodbye Blue Monday (topical name) and managed to flash that (V7 -> V6) before finishing off at Plethora boulder where there are some amazing looking (and appropriately graded) harder boulders. Very spent so finished the trip with Mask of Zorro V5. Very psyched to have managed three days on after years of injuries and very keen to come back to Unaweep (c.1000 boulders)
https://youtu.be/M5wK0p936to
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I can't/don't do anything (front levers etc) which could result in me falling onto my back or head in the event of failure.
Good to know! That was what I was thinking about.
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https://youtu.be/M5wK0p936to
Airwolf V6! What an unbelievably good line!