UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: wniefred on December 29, 2020, 04:57:54 pm
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I want some slopers for my 45 degree board. I have all beastmaker and hardwood holds so far. I've found that even rounded/slopey holds are easiest to be hold with hcrimp or fcrimp. I suppose that open hand doesn't work on wooden holds due to lack of friction.
Also can you recommend any plastic hold manufactures in the uk? I love kilter holds but they only seem to be available on backorder.
I want my board to be a bit more like Adam Ondra's warm up wall in Flatanger, not just a crimp and pinch fest.
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CORE:
https://coreclimbing.co.uk/buy-holds/
Before Christmas they turned round an order for me really fast.
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Bleaustone training range is prime. https://rockrun.com/products/bleaustone-training-range-dual-slopers
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Bleaustone training range is prime. https://rockrun.com/products/bleaustone-training-range-dual-slopers
Thanks they look good, have you used them on a steep 40-50 board?
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Indeed. In both orientations too. The only downside may be that you can easily wrap thumbs underneath so they become almost pinch-like, but the benefit is that they’re fairly compact compared to larger open-handed holds.
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Indeed. In both orientations too. The only downside may be that you can easily wrap thumbs underneath so they become almost pinch-like, but the benefit is that they’re fairly compact compared to larger open-handed holds.
I find that i have to do that on a load of my crimps too... have you tried the bluestone pockets?
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Problem with slopers on a board that steep is they either have to be massive, or you can pinch them. The ones on Ondra's wall all look huge, same for Stefano Ghisolfi's board.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CIDpmCFHcLa/?igshid=1qgwj4tonyja4
And the larger holds all seem really expensive.
I have some from Hardwood which are very slopey, and the only way of using them is to pinch.
Worth saying it is definitely possible to drag lots of holds on that sort of angle. It may not be the most natural way for you to use them, but this is training after all.
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Currently looking at this on a mate's board that a few of us share. Making some small volumes might work well, you can then put on a sloping hold and use as a sidepull or undercut or a sloper with a little thumb catch. Good for compression problems.
Also, bought some of these and think they're great for a 30 board, or placed on volumes on a 45.
https://www.holdz.co.uk/products/smooth-slopers-chewed
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I have some of these, think they are good:
https://www.hardwoodholds.co.uk/store/p166/Board_Slopers.html
I also have some big Beastmaker pinches, bought a while ago, turned sideways into slopers, and cut up some lengths of BM big campus rung which slopes a bit.
All work well, powerful without being tweaky. If too hard to hold, try using bigger footholds.
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I have some of these, think they are good:
https://www.hardwoodholds.co.uk/store/p166/Board_Slopers.html
Ah yes those are the ones I have too. Usable on a 45 but hard. Especially moving between them!
Also weirdly for plastic versus wood, a lot cheaper than those Bleaustone ones.
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Problem with slopers on a board that steep is they either have to be massive, or you can pinch them. The ones on Ondra's wall all look huge, same for Stefano Ghisolfi's board.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CIDpmCFHcLa/?igshid=1qgwj4tonyja4
And the larger holds all seem really expensive.
I have some from Hardwood which are very slopey, and the only way of using them is to pinch.
Worth saying it is definitely possible to drag lots of holds on that sort of angle. It may not be the most natural way for you to use them, but this is training after all.
I'm not just using my board to get stronger though, I want to improve my movement too. Probably will buy some smaller slopers and just not use them as pinches
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I have some of these, think they are good:
https://www.hardwoodholds.co.uk/store/p166/Board_Slopers.html
Ah yes those are the ones I have too. Usable on a 45 but hard. Especially moving between them!
Also weirdly for plastic versus wood, a lot cheaper than those Bleaustone ones.
I've actually got some of them but havent set them up yet. I thought they looked so bad that I'd have to use them as pinches at 45. Also you think its weird that they're cheaper than plastic? Wood holds seem way cheaper
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Currently looking at this on a mate's board that a few of us share. Making some small volumes might work well, you can then put on a sloping hold and use as a sidepull or undercut or a sloper with a little thumb catch. Good for compression problems.
Also, bought some of these and think they're great for a 30 board, or placed on volumes on a 45.
https://www.holdz.co.uk/products/smooth-slopers-chewed
Yeh i might do that actually. I don't want any big volumes because my wall is only 12*8, but making a tiny volume about the size of the hold would be cool and as you say you could makes some interesting holds beneath it.
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I find that i have to do that on a load of my crimps too... have you tried the bluestone pockets?
I believe so, I no longer use the board that had these holds on as I moved and now have my own board but it certainly had pockets on it. The deeper two/three finger pockets never required thumbs on, but shallower holds certainly did. They may not have been Bleaustone as they didn't have that unappealing fat lip.
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Also you think its weird that they're cheaper than plastic? Wood holds seem way cheaper
Well like everything it varies. For smaller holds yes I've found wood is generally more expensive per hold.
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I’ve some large wooden holds (jugs for a 30 but slopers on my 50) from Rick Ginns. By luck they are comfy as in two pad and non tweaks - but hard to hold. Like holding a beast maker sloper on a board. Cool to climb on..
I also have some small mahogany wedges from eBay (few quid for 20) that can be used to increase or decrease the sloper angle / of the are too hard or easy.
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I bought some Eurohold macros for mine. They're good value compared to others (and I'm pretty impressed with mine).
I've also built 3 or 4 250mm volumes. They're fairly easy to make if you've got access to something that'll cut a mitre (track saw or sliding mitre saw). I built them so that the circuits could be made easier in general.