UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: Bradders on December 20, 2020, 09:46:44 pm
-
Need to try some >= 7B. Need some targets at quick drying crags (other than almscliff). Any yorkshire/lancs suggestions appreciated.
Best 7Bs in Yorkshire imo, in no particular order (recently sent this to a mate):
Desert Island Arete Sit
Rumble in the Jungle
Belly Porker's Progress
JuJu Club
Crusis
The Outback
Ben's Groove
Andy's Route/Problem
Fight on Black
Andy Brown's Wall
The Flakes
Baby Spice
The Fly
Grape Nut
-
Need to try some >= 7B. Need some targets at quick drying crags (other than almscliff). Any yorkshire/lancs suggestions appreciated.
Best 7Bs in Yorkshire imo, in no particular order (recently sent this to a mate):
Desert Island Arete Sit - confession. I haven't done the sit or the stand but I feel like the sit doesn't add much to this. And I think it's really disappointing that the arete on its right is so much easier. Just makes going round the corner seem horribly contrived.
Rumble in the Jungle
Belly Porker's Progress
JuJu Club - I agree that this felt 7B but short people (and Big Tall Ben who loves a big grade) go apeshit when they hear this.
Crusis
The Outback - is this really good? Thing on Australia Roof at Earl?
Ben's Groove
Andy's Route/Problem - the thing next to great flake? tried this briefly and thought it was a bit shit and sharp with an awkward landing.
Fight on Black
Andy Brown's Wall
The Flakes
Baby Spice - never seen 7B and a bit shit. Feels a bit arbitrary as you where you decide to rock around the corner. Also - is at that absolute hellpit Ilkley.
The Fly
Grape Nut - 7A+ innit?
Thoughts above (but only because I love discussing grades and quality of rock climbs - all personal opinion). Bit of a dropped bollock not including one of Yorkshire's few world class climbs - McNab (though Huw has done that).
Not sure how hard Code Orange is but if it's 7B then it's up there with the best.
What grade is Scary Canary?
RACING RAYMOND!
Millstone Grit
-
Also. Fight on Black. On paper it should be one of my favourite climbs. Beautiful locale. Joe Healey problem. Will Simm on the crag that day too. Arete. Tricksome. Devious. Fingery. Balancey. Etc etc etc. But for some reason I just didn't enjoy it as much as I thought I would.
-
Need to try some >= 7B. Need some targets at quick drying crags (other than almscliff). Any yorkshire/lancs suggestions appreciated.
Best 7Bs in Yorkshire imo, in no particular order (recently sent this to a mate):
Desert Island Arete Sit - confession. I haven't done the sit or the stand but I feel like the sit doesn't add much to this. And I think it's really disappointing that the arete on its right is so much easier. Just makes going round the corner seem horribly contrived.
Rumble in the Jungle
Belly Porker's Progress
JuJu Club - I agree that this felt 7B but short people (and Big Tall Ben who loves a big grade) go apeshit when they hear this.
Crusis
The Outback - is this really good? Thing on Australia Roof at Earl?
Ben's Groove
Andy's Route/Problem - the thing next to great flake? tried this briefly and thought it was a bit shit and sharp with an awkward landing.
Fight on Black
Andy Brown's Wall
The Flakes
Baby Spice - never seen 7B and a bit shit. Feels a bit arbitrary as you where you decide to rock around the corner. Also - is at that absolute hellpit Ilkley.
The Fly
Grape Nut - 7A+ innit?
Thoughts above (but only because I love discussing grades and quality of rock climbs - all personal opinion). Bit of a dropped bollock not including one of Yorkshire's few world class climbs - McNab (though Huw has done that).
Not sure how hard Code Orange is but if it's 7B then it's up there with the best.
What grade is Scary Canary?
RACING RAYMOND!
Millstone Grit
DIA - go do it and then comment...
Outback - yes it's genuinely excellent
Andy's Route/Problem - yes next to Great Flake, it's very good when clean and really not that sharp
Baby Spice - thought it was bob on 7B and really good too, lovely tenuous rockover if you climb it properly
Grape Nut - without a French start from the floor I've always thought 7B, more awkward than Andy Brown's
McNab - not 7B
Scary Canary - 7B+ at least
-
Grape Nut is 7B from the deck without the block.
The sit to DIA is brilliant and well worth doing. My annual moan about the pointlessness of going around the arete remains though; just stay on the RH side at whatever grade it is that way, probably 7A+.
JuJu is 7B+ for the non albatross.
-
just stay on the RH side at whatever grade it is that way, probably 7A+.
Get a grip, Jim!
-
Im interested in 7B+ and soft 7C too.
-
just stay on the RH side at whatever grade it is that way, probably 7A+.
Get a grip, Jim!
:yawn:
UKC comments suggest 7A from a stand, sit 7A+, which seems reasonable to me. I did it with a load of people stronger than me and it took us a pretty long time to sort it out.
-
Replying to TTT in t'other thread:
Bradders / Will / Dunny - ages ago when I was better / stronger I was touting about for 7bs in Yorkshire. Have to say the main struggle is not so much finding quality, but one that's a) not ludicrously contrived, and b) will be reliably dry, in good connies etc.
Hard pill to swallow, but perhaps The Peak has better quality 7bs than Yorkshire. Hastag justsaying etc. I started a thread ages ago with some good tips.
:jaw:
Madness. None of the ones I posted are in any way contrived (with possible exception of DIA), and are regularly in condition throughout the season too.
I forgot to mention Polar Haze at Ilkley RV, and Geminid Trail at the Satellite Boulder (admittedly this one isn't often dry, but when it is...! Given 7A+ but I think 7B).
Trying to compare Peak to Yorkshire has been done to death previously so won't get into that.
-
Need to try some >= 7B. Need some targets at quick drying crags (other than almscliff). Any yorkshire/lancs suggestions appreciated.
Best 7Bs in Yorkshire imo, in no particular order (recently sent this to a mate):
Desert Island Arete Sit (sit start to another problem)
Rumble in the Jungle (no idea what this is)
Belly Porker's Progress (frequently damp)
JuJu Club (Caley, so good luck with connies)
Crusis (OK but the whole sit start makes it a bit wack)
The Outback (admittedly not tried)
Ben's Groove (see above re Caley)
Andy's Route/Problem (Caley again)
Fight on Black (Widdop, so damp / wet a lot)
Andy Brown's Wall (strange a lanky chap like this one!)
The Flakes (ditto)
Baby Spice (per Will's comment, looks OK but Ilkley)
The Fly (is this Crookrise? Probably a good shout)
Grape Nut (the "non jump start" "not off the block")
All comments firmly tongue in cheek - to be clear, I'm not hating on a geez when it comes to quality of the problems in their own right, I'm just saying that for the time-poor 7a+ grade-pusher with only weekends to spare there are more reliable projects in terms of actually being able to get on them enough to have a fighting chance.
-
Has Demon Wall Roof been upgraded to 7B yet?
😳😂
-
Geminid Trail at the Satellite Boulder (admittedly this one isn't often dry, but when it is...! Given 7A+ but I think 7B).
:agree:
Im interested in 7B+ and soft 7C too.
Heaven in your Hands could arguably fit into this bracket and you've tried it before (and you won't find better). I find it about as hard as Lay-by Arete (I haven't actually finished that so maybe we could go together - it should definitely be on the list). HiyH with the new sequence hasn't got any properly stopper moves on it, but you do need to learn the sequence and where to hit the holds (which for one of the arete holds is not overly obvious).
Underhand Extension is a bit of a giveaway if you can get Underhand dialled and efficient. It's nice and easy to get the end bit wired in isolation and it's always dry.
Ringpiece
I really enjoyed Tin Can Alley but it's not to everyone's taste. It's also slightly strange in that I had a go on it a few years ago and didn't quite make it then pissed it first go last season. I think something can just click with it.
Stu's Roof Left will play well to your historic form as a roof technician.
If you want a slab then Syrett's Saunter Right-hand is now probably about 7B+ but it might be a bit reach dependent. I found it really demanding but it wasn't mint connies when I did it.
If Big Roof likes the Glen then Parker Sit could go on your list at 7B/+ (reach dependent).
Ju Ju Club doesn't get huge amounts of press but is brilliant fun.
TTT, I know you're no stranger to rock climbing in Yorkshire, but I'm surprised at how easily you'd write off the Caley stuff as being impossible to find in nick. The classics are so clean that the rock actually dries reasonably quickly in fair connies. There just isn't the lichen there to hold onto the water.
-
Replying to TTT in t'other thread:
Bradders / Will / Dunny - ages ago when I was better / stronger I was touting about for 7bs in Yorkshire. Have to say the main struggle is not so much finding quality, but one that's a) not ludicrously contrived, and b) will be reliably dry, in good connies etc.
Hard pill to swallow, but perhaps The Peak has better quality 7bs than Yorkshire. Hastag justsaying etc. I started a thread ages ago with some good tips.
:jaw:
Madness. None of the ones I posted are in any way contrived (with possible exception of DIA), and are regularly in condition throughout the season too.
I forgot to mention Polar Haze at Ilkley RV, and Geminid Trail at the Satellite Boulder (admittedly this one isn't often dry, but when it is...! Given 7A+ but I think 7B).
Trying to compare Peak to Yorkshire has been done to death previously so won't get into that.
The original list seems pretty on the money (from the ones I've climbed).
Have to say I didn't massively rate Polar Haze though. Would humbly suggest either Beast of the Field or Molly Moocher instead :P . Both seemed to be considered 7b now.
-
Geminid Trail at the Satellite Boulder (admittedly this one isn't often dry, but when it is...! Given 7A+ but I think 7B).
Im interested in 7B+ and soft 7C too.
Heaven in your Hands could arguably fit into this bracket and you've tried it before (and you won't find better). I find it about as hard as Lay-by Arete (I haven't actually finished that so maybe we could go together - it should definitely be on the list). HiyH with the new sequence hasn't got any properly stopper moves on it, but you do need to learn the sequence and where to hit the holds (which for one of the arete holds is not overly obvious).
One of best lines anywhere and even though it is high its ok with two pads on your own. Try and get it whilst its had traffic as prone to scrittle.
-
The 7B+s I've really enjoyed
Scary Canary
Superset
Red Squirrel (I thought better than the other two as you miss out the rubbish lanky first move, do a 180 in the middle and get to finish up the Drey which is a brilliant couple of moves)
Jerry's arete - really good, just needs to be properly dry
Crystal Method
Pixie Tits Sit
Phoenix Wall
Superfly
Underpants
Lay-By-Arete
for 7B not mentioned
The Prize
Pistol Whip
-
for 7B not mentioned
The Prize
Pistol Whip
The Prize is a nightmare to get on because it's so often out of nick and requires three people's worth of pads and a really good spotter.
Pistol Whip needs loads of pads. It's good but feels a little bit eliminate in my view.
-
Also, world class it certainly isn't, but Crimpy Roof is one of the more perma-dry problems in Yorkshire, if that's what you're after. And it's quite good fun too.
-
Sloping Beauty too.
Basically Earl Crag is the capital of quality 7Bs in Yorkshire.
-
If you want a slab then Syrett's Saunter Right-hand.....bit reach dependent...wasn't mint connies when I did it.
Parker Sit...(reach dependent).
Red Squirrel...the rubbish lanky first move...
Jerry's arete...just needs to be properly dry
Heaven in your Hands...
...prone to scrittle.
The Prize...so often out of nick and requires three people's worth of pads and a really good spotter.
Pistol Whip...little bit eliminate in my view.
:-\ ;)
-
Any lancs recomendations? Particularly on the quick drying front.
Ive done q few of the suggested. Not necessarily after 3* lines, just dry stuff to have a go at.
Tried most 7B at the cliff and many of the suggestions at earl. Ive neglected caley for years so some good stuff to do there. HIYH is on the list. Had a great time failing up it before. Exquisite. Didnt like laby arete.
Im generally trying to avoid the peak as it seems rammed all the time, but there are plenty of things to junp on down there.
-
Didn’t robin post up a list recently? Not too many fast drying ones though.
-
In Lancashire Hanks Wall at Brownstones is super quick drying and is 7a+/7b.
-
If you want to avoid busy crags then the magnesian limestone might be of interest. The following problems are all quick drying or don't get wet but can suffer condensation.
Church Crag - The Shield, Gulliver's Travels
Smeaton Crags - Elysium
Lound Hill - The Hills Have Eyes
Barnburgh - Uncertainty Principle
Sprotbrough - Half Life, The Shelf, Shelf Less
Levitt Hagg - The Hagg
Viaduct Boulder - Breach of the Peace
Earth Quarry - Diamond White
Hooton Roberts - Chieftan
-
If you want to avoid busy crags then the magnesian limestone might be of interest. The following problems are all quick drying or don't get wet but can suffer condensation.
Church Crag - The Shield, Gulliver's Travels
Smeaton Crags - Elysium
Lound Hill - The Hills Have Eyes
Barnburgh - Uncertainty Principle
Sprotbrough - Half Life, The Shelf, Shelf Less
Levitt Hagg - The Hagg
Viaduct Boulder - Breach of the Peace
Earth Quarry - Diamond White
Hooton Roberts - Chieftan
Very keen for Elysium
-
I've been for a look at Elysium and it looks very good - >1 pad and spotter territory. Easy to combine with a Church hit as it's just round the corner.
Depending on your predilection for old skool boning on crimps, The Shield is a good shout. One padder, no spotter needed, pretty basic and pretty weather-proof.