UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: shark on December 13, 2020, 12:22:05 pm
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11.6-8 Average 161.3 (up 0.5lbs)
M.
T. Weighed heavy. FB warm up. Headed out to Burbage. Clag, drizzle, dank. Didn’t get out of car. Drove to Tor. Dismal. Deserted. Used fan to counteract the humidity. Tried Holly’s static method on the crux. No. Fucking. Way. Other efforts to improve on the move unsuccessful but felt pretty comfortable doing it the existing way. Tried to link pocket and pinch to end. Got to cross through 3x almost holding the pinch once. Couple of attempts from pocket and crimp failing on cross through set up. Bit of a shit day.
W. Home FB warm up. Reconnaissance mission to Burbage with Ben. Hostile conditions encountered. Hasty retreat. Long max hangs session on ergo edge. Success. Back at PB level matching January’s freak outlier HC PB of +27.5kg and weigh a bit heavier than then too. Also did FC
T.
F. Peasouper. Abandoned Tor plan. Late AM Fast pull-ups. 5 sets of 4 pull-ups with slightly heavier weight as wanted to use the divers belt (12lbs/4.4kg). Got chest to bar maybe 8 times.
PM Epic max hangs session on Ergo Edge. Same scores as Wednesday but more volume. Hopefully consolidated at this level.
S.
S.
Crap to only to get on rock once this week and that was in far from ideal conditions. Not even good enough for a consolation walk in the Peak.
The current wet and humid weather is making outside climbing unfeasible. Poor Ben is crestfallen. He came home a week ago from a term of lockdown in Bristol hoping to get out lots on the grit.
Highlight of the week was max hangs progress. Generally feel in good shape but continuing incremental weight gain is a worry though still in the low teens % body fat so not too stressed about it and hopefully means body is responding better to training and climbing. Mindful that it is to be a long hard grind to reverse the trend next year.
Plan to get out Monday and Tuesday when the weather is forecast to be slightly less shit and then hopefully set some new max hang PB’s later in the week.
Might have to join Johnny Brown indoors at this rate.
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W. Home FB warm up. Reconnaissance mission to Burbage with Ben. Hostile conditions encountered. Hasty retreat. Long max hangs session on ergo edge. Success. Back at PB level matching January’s freak outlier HC PB of +27.5kg and weigh a bit heavier than then too. Also did FC
This reads like Captain Scott’s Diary. :lol: What are HC & FC?
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This reads like Captain Scott’s Diary. :lol: What are HC & FC?
Half Crimp and Full Crimp
“I’m going for a max hangs session and I may be some time..”
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This reads like Captain Scott’s Diary. :lol: What are HC & FC?
Half Crimp and Full Crimp
“I’m going for a max hangs session and I may be some time..”
But everyone else in the tent would know you were lying... 😂
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Crap to only to get on rock once this week and that was in far from ideal conditions.
Eastern Lime innit bro
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Go East? That’s not how the song goes
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Go East? That’s not how the song goes
Drive to Lincoln first if it makes it easier for you?
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Try a different song:
I looked west in search of freedom
And I saw slavery
I looked east in search of answers
And I saw dry lime
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Mon: 6 30sec isometric hangs with both arms 90 degrees. Full on arm wobbles towards the end of each one.
Tues: rest. RH golfers elbow felt really bad....
Weds: 30 min board session in evening. OK - elbow felt a bit better after.
Thurs: Found some dry rock - had a really crap session on Rodins at Wilton3. Felt like lead. Was cold, with a stiff wind - first brutal feeling grit day. But despite great connies had one attempt that felt up to what 8 or 9 had on the last session. The top was wet and greasy anyway from inspection.
Friday. One hour board session. Decent.
Sat: Had a window up to 1:30 before having to look after the nipper. Drove to crag hoping rain would pass sooner than forecast. Sat in car while it pissed down for an hour. Gave up came home.
Sunday: One hour board session. Better. best of the week tbh.
At least my golfers has cleared up now I've stopped doing anything on my fingerboard. Theres a lesson there....
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Have done very close to fuck all this week.
Went to the wall and bought some Instincts having heard good things about their heel and toe hooking ability. Spent some evenings on the sofa wearing them for brief periods. I've never known pain like it. Wondering if I fucked up and bought too small.
Sa - took eldest to new Bradford wall in the afternoon and she enjoyed the kids bit. Also got her into her harness and she did some laps of going up about 6 feet on top rope then lowering down. Just to get her used to the feeling of sitting on the rope. Drama free which is a huge improvement on last time. Did a couple of problems in my socks before we left and spotted my favourite compression-stocking wearer. Couldn't chat for long but he seemed in fine fettle.
Board session in the evening trying to break in the new Scarpa's. Agony but feels like they might be getting there. Figured out the beta on Horse Latitudes but no tick. Looking forward to the send.
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Did a couple of problems in my socks before we left and spotted my favourite compression-stocking wearer. Couldn't chat for long but he seemed in fine fettle.
Socks are basically as cheating as kneepads on some of those abrasively new holds! In fact if they built a Fonze replica for you it could be great for skin testing.
I had quite a nice session there, I'd been just before lockdown and done on all the slabby problems apart from the pink with the blob jump start and the many-holded orange just left of it. Did that orange this time and a lot more steeper stuff (including that pink I was falling off) and my elbow didn't explode off my arm despite it being colder in there than it was outdoors....
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2weeks:
Basically lots of back woes with a couple of setbacks. Been doing a lot of exercises for it, lots of stretching and short gentle walks. Usual routine but going on longer than normal
Reached a stage that I can hang and do some gentle climbing now but been having numbness in my leg so need to be careful.
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STG: quick tick 7s, do something every day
MTG: 7C, 5 seconds one arm hang, big slot of beastmaker, fix gammy leg (stretch!)
LTG: ?
Joining the club in the hope it will provide some training psyche whilst I can't get to a wall and outside is wack!
Currently ticking some low 7s in a session, would be good to up that to 7B+/7C though would be psyched to tick any of these if I get keen to project again.
Think I did more but cant remember, I did some antag weights at some point. Need to write it down.
M:
T: Mono finger trainer. Ab rolls
W: Antagonistic weights (I think?)
Th: Weighted pull ups. Fingerboard, just playing around getting back into it.
F:
Sa: Brimham. Mostly wet. Did Jokers reverse up to where it was wet (the 6A finish), which will be a fast tick when it dries out. A couple of 6s in the niche to the right. Rest of the crag was fooked. Nice to get out though.
Su: Fingerboard session, tried to do max hang but ran out of weight. I tried 1 arm, Can hang 2-3 good seconds rh on the bm big slot, and not really on my left. Leg stretches.
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Went to the wall and bought some Instincts... I've never known pain like it. Wondering if I fucked up and bought too small.
Stop lying Will. You broke your femur before, you can handle breaking some tight shoes in.
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M - sleeping off the night shifts, roused myself for some assisted one armers in eve. Down to -5kg both arms. Tried tts weights in pockets idea below this, but no joy. Not sure if it was less effective, think I'd have got no further anyway tbh. Didn't do the pulls I normally would while adding weight back on, wanted to be fresh for tues.
T - Cheddar, remnant. Seepage making some of the footholds and a couple of the hands on Just Say No awkward but pressed on. Managed from ground to 2 moves from the chain, and from part way through the initial crux to the top. Best rp go had completely numbed out, might have gone in more hospitable conditions but happy with progress. Quick repeat of Its A Kind Of Magic (7a+) to finish.
W - Huntsham, felt awful in morning, prob from poor sleep, but had already committed. Spent session getting reacquainted with the the roof problems on bivi buttress but felt weaker than ever. Then 12hr night shift.
T - 12hr night shift
F - sleeping off nights, dragged myself to tca in eve to try and help reset body clock. Half arsed session on new blacks (6C-7A), feeling very sluggish.
S - slept late, tca aft, still felt heavy on blacks, despite doing a few more.
S - nothing, in bed most of the day, sleep cycle fucked.
Really happy with Tuesdays session on JSK, did both the important links, and almost managed it despite the wet and cold. On the negative side I haven't been to the wall much at all since spring, and it really shows when I'm bouldering...
70kg
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W/C 7/12/2020
M -Chest, Depot projects, abs, yoga
T - Campus, fingers, bit of board, triceps, abs, yoga
W - Pull ups, core, Depot projects and Pinks, yoga
T - Shoulders, Yoga, campus, fingers, circuits, Buckstone, abs
F - Yoga, abs, Big Depot(routes and bouldering), biceps
S - Yoga, fingers,abs
S - Depot, abs, yoga
Another week to keep things ticking along nicely.
M - International chest day again. Start with flat bench press for doubles, work up to a very solid 95, which I’m happy with for so early in the phase. Go on to decline presses again for doubles and stop at a very solid and confident 100. Well chuffed. Smith machine incline presses at 15° for twos working up to 92.5. Next is 3x4 incline guillotine presses on the Smith machine at 30° with 60, which starts to engage the shoulders more. Move on to dumbbells on a flat bench and do 3x6 with the 30s, keeping the pace slow. Incline dumbbell presses start at 20k x10 reps , 24x8 and finish with 30x4. Finish session with 3x8 incline flys.
Head up to Caley and it’s just wet through. Manage some traversing on slabs before bailing for the wall. Have a pretty good session, managing another yellow, working a couple more and ticking off all but one of the remaining purples, which may be the most I’ve done.
Abs is 4x25 paused reps on the abs roller.
Today’s yoga is focused on flexibility which is a pleasant relaxation.
T - Campus to start off with and focused on big (for me) arm moves on bigger holds, so most sets are going 1-3-6. Feel pretty good on these but 2-4-7 (which I know should be the same) eludes me. A little bit of work on 1-2-5 on smaller holds. Move on to Max Hangs on the Lattice right by for 8 sets of 5seconds with 10k assist, getting ropey by the end. Have twenty minutes working different things on the 30 board, although only actually do one problem. Finish on the circuit board.
Weights today is triceps dominant. Start with close grip presses for 3x5 finishing at 80k, which feels marginally better than last week. Next is goblet presses for 4x5, which I try seated but is just too unstable so stand up. Dumbbell leaning skull crushers for 4x6, followed by 3x8 crush dumbbell presses. Three sets of single arm Tate presses with increasing weight on each set. V grip presses for 3x8 followed by overhead extensions for 4x6. Go for some deadlifts when I finish 140 flies again so push weight to 152.5 which goes well. Do find very small steps the key for my deadlifts as 2.5 heavier doesn’t sound a huge amount, so go to the bar with belief, which plays such a big part. Convinced that the core work I’ve done means I’m lifting heavier despite being lighter.
Abs roller of 3x5 off the feet rather than knees, this is still brutal even though I am in a straddle position to shorten the lever. Fifty standard reps to follow and then finish with a core based yoga session.
W - Start day in gym with weighted pull-ups. Doing sets of 2, work up in 10k increments to 40k which is close but not quite there yet, then do 5x2 at 35. Next do 5x1 jumps on diagonal monkey bars between 1 and 3, don’t attempt 1-4 today though. Lock offs for 30 seconds at full lock followed by 30 seconds rest, 90° then rest, 120° then rest for 2 minutes and repeat. On to off set pull ups for 3 sets with 60cm off set. I get 3/2, 3/2, 3/2 on each set which means I need to work on left a bit. Five sets of single negatives is next. Do some lever holds with one legged tucked for core and 5x5 close grip pull ups. At the end of the session try to remind myself how to do a bar muscle up. Use the technique of climbing in to top position, coming down and then back up using momentum. Don’t get it on first go but do on second and chicken wing the third, so it’s a case of working on this for a bit and then going on to progress from starting in the lower position.
Wet ground so head to Depot. Great session. Manage another yellow, work on the remaking purple and then crack on with the pinks. Get 25 done, mostly flashed, and work on the harder ones. I reckon I can do another three and possibly four but by the end I am absolutely wasted. Worked harder today than I have in a while.
Nice relaxing yoga session for flexibility and use the muscle gun later to loosen my back and arms a bit.
T - In the gym on the morning and it’s shoulders day, which will be very press focused. Start off with machine presses for 4x5. Follow this with seated dumbbell presses for 5x5, still a bit of weakness in right arm, which is a bit odd. Move on to strict seated single arm presses for 4x6. To help strengthen ancillary muscles go for 3x8 of stability presses with a light kettlebell. Arnold presses for 3x8 is next up and follow this with wide grip shoulder presses with dumbbells for 3x8. Combination of lateral raises, moving to front raises next for 3x10 with weight dropped right down. Half and halves for 3 sets with weight increasing and reps decreasing on each set. As a finisher do 50 reps of clean and press, resting when I need to. Scapular raises for 3x8 on both arms and 2x5 on single arms before I go home.
Today’s yoga is unsurprisingly very shoulder orientated and provides an excellent stretch after lifting.
Have family stuff to do in Manchester so in the afternoon go to Manchester Depot with the sole intention of doing training type stuff. On the campus board I work on smaller holds to try to be more finger focused than Tuesday’s session. Do 12 sets in total finishing with 1-2-5 on smallest holds. Then do some traverses on the traverse wall which is good for light effort. Gym is closed so can’t do hangs I’d intended but do some on the 33 mm holds on BM2K for 8 sets of 6 seconds, which intuitively feels about the right effort for today. Finish off doing all the circuits on LH board of 7a and below, trying to limit rest as much as I think feasible. Safe to say by the last moves of each circuit, including the 6a I am pumped and battling.
Weather looks good on the way over the M62 so nip up to Buckstone and do a couple of easy problems on the dry bits of rock. Cracking view over the valley.
50 reps on the abs roller in the evening.
F - Early morning yoga for hip and hamstring flexibility.
Abs roller for 60 paused reps plus 60 Russian twists for obliques.
Go to the Big Depot and based on the premise that doing longer stuff will help with staying strong later into the day, we do routes to start. Do five in total between 6b and 7a+ (which I fall off the top move of) which is a start, given that it’s been so long. Then move on to boulders. Do reasonably well, flash a few yellows, work a few more. I tick a load of purples including one that felt living end last visit when working it, but goes steadily first time today. Do the reds and the woods, which all feel steady. Also real good to see a load of folk from years ago.
Gym on way home for biceps. Start with 4x6 Ez preacher curls at 30. Follow this with steep preacher single arm curls for 5x5 working up to 20k. Next is a triset of incline curls for 3x5, seated curls for 3x8 and drag curls for 3x8. Next is hammer curls for 3x8 and finish with Zottman curls for 4x6.
S - Yoga for flexibility to start the day and initially feel very stiff but loosen up as the session goes on.
In the afternoon do a session of finger benchmarking which is fundamentally using a wide range of grip types and finger combinations and pulling as hard as I can, which is probably not bad training in itself.
Finish off with 3x6 ab roll outs on my feet. Still tough but making progress.
S - Sunday social boulder at Depot. Warm up, do one of pinks that I had worked but not done on Wednesday try a couple more and then do first twenty odd problems again, trying different sequences and body positions.
Easy abs roller session in afternoon and then a yoga session in the early evening, which was based around spinal mobility.
A pretty good week, only down side is that I didn’t actually get to climb outside much. I have a really good routine going at the moment that keeps me nice and busy and does wonders for my mental and physical health and I am very thankful for that, both in terms of goal orientation and soul orientation.
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M - rest.
T - max hangs - PB! Managed a full set at 3kg assist. Pleased.
W - rest.
T - wall. Not a bad session just pissing around on problems but ring finger on right hand felt tweaky. Got a weird tight feeling in right forearm as well which I couldn't shake. I have been really lax on armaid/forearm massage lately so was a good reminder to get into it again.
F - rest. Hammered forearms with the armaid.
S- forecast was good the night before, good for the afternoon when I woke up and predictably got worse throughout the day. Unfortunately by this point I had already driven to eatswood (condensed) and curbar (wet) before sacking it. Thats 4 trips to eatswood and its been condensed 3 times. What am I doing wrong, or is it actually as fickle as any other grit crag?
Came home and trained instead. Dropped max hangs to 2kg assist and they felt feasible with work. Stability hangs, press ups, stretching.
S- wall. Slept until half 11 so must have been tired. Wall was booked for 12 so a bit of a mad rush to get there and was consequently underfuelled. Skin pretty thin now but had fun messing around. Might have to go back on the board now I've exhausted the problems I can do.
A bit of a grind again. Haven't been out on rock properly since late November. Such a rubbish December! I accept I could have gone to Anstons or something but I find switching between lime and grit really hard, plus I am profoundly unpsyched for limestone currently so have doggedly stuck to grit. Might have to change tack though if this weather keeps up. Predictably blue skies today.
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Thats 4 trips to eatswood...
...I am profoundly unpsyched for limestone
These statements don't seem to go together. Isn't eatswood the place that intransigent limers go when they're forced by their peers to climb on grit but they don't really want to?
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These statements don't seem to go together. Isn't eatswood the place that intransigent limers go when they're forced by their peers to climb on grit but they don't really want to?
Maybe, but for me I was interested in it because its only an hour from me and (I thought) climbable in iffy weather. I think I may have bouldered on limestone once or twice, but thats it.
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Thats 4 trips to eatswood...
...I am profoundly unpsyched for limestone
These statements don't seem to go together. Isn't eatswood the place that intransigent limers go when they're forced by their peers to climb on grit but they don't really want to?
It has a traverse that’s sheltered all the way across and is on largely positive holds. Apart from that it’s not untypical for grit- plenty of trad routes.
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Weight - Not wanted to look
M - Assisted one armers/offset pull ups. higher hand on the Lattice jug, Awesome Woodys portable hangboard hanging below. 3 x 3 10mm edge assist, 4 x 5 20mm edge assist, 3 x 8 30mm edge assist. Trail run through deep slush - 12km 550m elevation gain.
T - Assisted one arm hangs - Beastmaker middle edge.
W - Run on the flat. 14km
T - Assisted one arm hangs - Beastmaker middle edge.
F - X-country skiing - 15km
S - Trail running 22.5km with 1085m height gain. Offset pullups, assisted one arm pullups (slings), assisted one arm pullups (pulley).
S - Short run 5km 148m height gain. Shoulder recruitment/stability + core. Assisted one arm hangs - Beastmaker middle edge. Rotator cuff and sub-scapularis isolation weights.
Not a bad week. I am happy doing short strength based sessions and feel like I am making gains and feel much more solid in the shoulders and assisted one arm hangs. Still too much booze though.
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M - Shoulder conditioning routine (IsYsTs, side planks, handstands, press-ups).
T - 11km walk.
W - Fingerboard for rehab. 12km walk.
T - Shoulders
F - Shoulders. Fingerboard: (light) weighted hangs. Tried a few pull-ups but elbows not having it.
S - Shoulders.
S - Fingerboard: light weighted hangs.
Light week: dodgy elbows, dire weather, and sick family. We all went for covid tests yesterday, fingers crossed.
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Right!! Back on it...
Been out of the game for a good while now... First off life got in the way, then cycling, then running a sound system, then skateboarding and the inevitable injuries that such a stupid activity elicits in a man in his 40's (cue: 2 broken ribs, 1 pnumothorax, 2 broken wrists - same wrist twice!! and the biggest hip haemotoma I've ever seen! :wall:)...
Was still visiting the wall most weeks and taking the odd trip out but tbh my heart wasn't in it... Lockdown changed all that!
Last trip to A&E was a wake up call to say: "get off the bloody skateboard - concrete is a savage mistress - nobody thinks impossibles or heelflips at 46 with a broken wrist is cool!"
Putting the fingerboard back up in the office in March meant that I had to stare at it most days so decided to actually get back on with it - probably just to stop the kids and GF taking the piss!
A pre Covid booked trip to Kalymnos that fortunately fell in between lockdowns and realising that I can still onsight F7a added lashings of much needed psyche...
So here we are... Psyched... Nursing a shoulder tweak but hyped to actually get summat 7b+/7c - ish ticked again next year and ultimately that elusive F8a (before I die :whistle:):
(climbed lots the previous week so....)
M: Shoulder strengthning physio and thereband shizz (hard)
T: Rest (think I overdid the physio as was pretty sore)
W: Routes up to F6a+ @ AW - Steady
T: Routes up to F6b+ @ AW - Little bit more effort but mostly vertical and felt steady
F: Short repeater sesh (30mis inc. warmup) - physio exercises (light)
S: Routes up to F6c - Mostly vertical, felt okay apart from a couple of clips that aggrovated the tweak
S: Routes up to F6a+ - Shoulder still felt fine so went a bit steeper, slightly tweaky but thereaband and pressups afterward seemed to help and don't feel too bad today
Lots of mileage and physio... Keeping on with this for the next few weeks.
Ace...
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Thats 4 trips to eatswood and its been condensed 3 times. What am I doing wrong, or is it actually as fickle as any other grit crag?
As fickle as any other steep crag. Look at temperature fluctuations, humidity, dew point, wind speed and direction.
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Goal: new (to me) Font 7a outdoors
Mixed week...the good stuff
Tues - evening at Last Sun Dance - blowing away cobwebs after lockdown. Took it fairly steady but got up a couple of V5s.
Thurs - Last Sun Dance - quite busy for a change, felt a bit perturbing. Decided to bang out everything up to V2 which I did, and then moved to the splatter / 30 deg board as there was nobody around. Started making up a problem I did "any feet" and then found out was a lot harder SHAFT. Got a bit of the board psyche back.
...the bad stuff - too much boozing, too much eating, pretty grumpy with the kids over the weekend, compounded by being stuck indoors as weather was terrible and we can't go out anywhere indoor because Tier 3.
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skateboarding and the inevitable injuries that such a stupid activity elicits in a man in his 40's
Did you start skating in your 40s Duncan? When I used to skate (when I was about 17-19, quit before I got any good) the older guys who we saw out periodically were spoken about in hushed tones, more for the injuries they’d sustained and the scars and postural problems they had as a result than their skills.
When I found out that one of my climbing partners who’s my age still skates he revealed that his secret to not being that fucked up was to have basically never stopped since he was a teenager. We both agreed that the formative years of street skating were not something we’d be prepared to experience at 40. :sick:
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Thought it was about time I joined in after being a serial lurker. Got quite stuck into training this winter after a decent season. The home board I built during lockdown has helped a lot. For a bit of background, I am almost exclusively a sport climber but have been enjoying pottering around with my pads this autumn/winter. This past summer I did my first 8a's so looking to build on that next season. I'm based in Chester so Clwyd lime is my local stuff, with North Wales and the Peak not far away.
M – Parisella’s after work. Second session on Rock Atrocity. Sort of got involved with this by accident when I ended up at the cave last weekend due to lack of other dry options. Only been a couple of times before playing on Left Wall Traverse. RA would be my first 7C. Had got all the moves last session so was a case of making links. Pleased to get it done in two halves, from the start to matched on the flake and then from there to the end. TRX session when I got home.
T – Lunchtime fingerboard, Crimpd AnCap 70% repeaters. Evening session at the Boardroom. 5 x 5 pull ups +16kg. Then playing on the routes with a mate, went too hard too early and was mega boxed for the whole thing resulting in much failure. 20 minutes of easier endurance stuff on the autobelays to finish with.
W – Back to the cave after work. New high point on RA of slapping to the sloper off the flake but not holding the swing. Then an enjoyable tick of LWT, my tactic of trying this when too tried for RA finally paid off. Obviously third day on at the cave is not ideal but happened for various reasons!
T – Much needed rest.
F – Lunchtime fingerboard, Crimpd AeroPow repeaters. Super pumped, in hindsight this was probably one session too much. Evening – Anderson repeaters using the protocol I saw on here a while back with F3 open, F3 half crimp, M2 open. Been doing these to try and improve my weaknesses on any hold that is not a four finger crimp. Bar core work, followed by the linked boulders session from Crimpd on my board. Only managed two sets before I was feeling totally wiped out.
S – Rest, didn’t really move from the sofa which was the goal for the day.
S – Cave again. Truly awful conditions, not that I was expecting anything else. A marginal high point (held the swing a bit more). Good group though so still enjoyable.
An easy week in the schedule coming up is much needed: one midweek day of training, one midweek cave session and then whatever the weather allows at the weekend.
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Power Club
Mon - Lattice Edge 10 hangs at -5, -2 and BW, tired but strong. Snatch rack pulls in between 80kg x5 x10.
Tue - rest.
Wed - Lattice Edge usual session. Power clean up to 68 kg (85%) happy but very dangerous for the knee. Never again. Snatch 5x5. TBDL x5 + farmer's x5.
Thu - shoulders (supinated grip and Lu raises). Pull ups 30" finisher. Overhead carry 30/30 x10 40 kg. Tired.
Fri - rest.
Sat - sledgehammer and wheel x4', loaded carry on stairs x4', all x3. Amazing.
Sun - ab wheel, clean and press, snatch pulls, overhead carry.
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skateboarding and the inevitable injuries that such a stupid activity elicits in a man in his 40's
Did you start skating in your 40s Duncan? When I used to skate (when I was about 17-19, quit before I got any good) the older guys who we saw out periodically were spoken about in hushed tones, more for the injuries they’d sustained and the scars and postural problems they had as a result than their skills.
When I found out that one of my climbing partners who’s my age still skates he revealed that his secret to not being that fucked up was to have basically never stopped since he was a teenager. We both agreed that the formative years of street skating were not something we’d be prepared to experience at 40. :sick:
I started at 13 and pretty much knocked it on the head in my mid 20's (around the time concrete seemed to get strangely more solid :shrug: and I started climbing)... Still skated to the shops and could always impress the kids on the school run with a kickflip or two... Picked it up properly again a few years back as my son got keen... Been ace taking him to parks and getting loads of the old tricks back but now he's nearly 14 and doesn't wanna be shown up by his dad anymore I'm gonna let it go and save the NHS some money :wavecry:
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M: 100 press-ups. (25, 25, 25, 25)
T: Fingerboard. First hangs for a while. 40mm slowly decreased weight off from -40lb to BW. 22mm slowly decreased weight from -40lb to a 10s hang at BW. L wrist and fingers not hurting but feeling odd. Core - Crimpd Floor Core
W: Density pickups up to 40lb both sides. 100 press-ups. (30, 28, 24, 18)
T: Fingerboard. 22mm 10s *5sets. Core - Crimpd Floor Core
S: DBC North. Hangs 20mm 10s up to +10lb. Climbing up to M-, LH feeling massively restricted. More comfortable in crimp than open hand, think it's a flexor tendon strain
S: Drive into the mountains with lots of short walks in the snow
Progression on the latest injury - slow and steady