UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: Duma on November 22, 2020, 09:24:29 pm
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M - planned to have another look at The Prince but foiled by showers.
T - Brean, got up El Chocco (7c) and Casino Royale (7b+) without much fuss. I'd had attempts on both previously without success so felt like progress.
W - work, 12hr shift
T - work, 12hr shift
F - assisted one armers, down to -5.5kg both sides so 0.5 better on right but 0.5 worse on left
S - Cheddar, morning at Easter Island which is always a pleasure, lovely spot for some gentle bolt clipping. Afternoon at the Wave, managed to crimp hard enough to get up Millimetre War (7c) before dark despite a bit of seepage. Good day, last target on the wave ticked.
S - Wyndcliffe, got a couple of 7a+s along with a few easier things, but was more about a glorious sunny day at a gentle crag, almost shattered by someone pulling down a big chunk of the crag which barely missed a group at the base. Thankfully they were all unscathed, but a reminder of the dangers of loose quarries even when the grades are low and the bolting friendly.
70kg
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Tu - the ripper of abs
Th - night session on The Fonze. Worked the moves for a bit and managed to link from the jug boss to a hand on the arete. Had to tape up then but then managed a further link from the start to getting onto the arete. Heel popped which spat me off but I think there's big promise there - especially as on the best link I'd faffed around getting the hands sequence wrong on the start. Best go below:
https://youtu.be/iS2DivQMLTY
Su - took the pads for a long walk down Rylstone. Put shoes on at Inner Reaches but top out was soaked. Played on a project on the Cracoe Memorial boulders before home. The aim was to not do any skin damage for the day which was at least achieved.
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11.5-8 Average 160.8 (up 0.6lbs )
M. Overcast. Breezy. FB warmup Checked out Crag X with Ewa. Only one damp hold on Moff. Got to work on it but didn’t get very far. Holds not grippy. Lower back sore, felt jaded and demotivated. Low ebb. Decamped to Tor. Few goes at crux move on Bens. Did it but too tired to link into next move. Had a couple of tie ins on the lower part of Obscene Gesture. Crux is truly nasty. Didn’t get close. Ewa redpointed it. Time for some time out.
T. PM solid 3 hours of leaf shovelling and shifting
W. PM 2 hours more of leaf logistics
T. AM Dropped Ewa at Tor then went for 3.5 hour walk with dogs. Tired at the end
F. AM 5 sets of 4 fast/power pull-ups with +5kg. Will log how often I get chest to bar from now on
PM Max hangs on ergo edge. Did well on full crimps but got a bit too ambitious on the drags and overcooked it on the first one
S. PM 2.5 hours leaf shifting
S. Lovely day. Should have been champing at the bit to climb but not up for it. PM 3 hours leaf shifting. Couldn’t face training after.
Easier recovery week though with the long walk and all the leaf shifting doesn’t feel like it.
Weight has been gradually creeping up over last 8 weeks which was fine but now in danger of getting established over 11 and a half stone which isn’t fine.
Ewa who has been lodging with us is heading back to Poland next week which is a damned shame. Been great to have someone so keen and available to get out with.
Motivation low but hanging in there.
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Best go below:
Great link Will, coming together fast.
I think you could prob spend your core session a bit more effectively but I understand the draw of the Ab Ripper!
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Ta. Fingers crossed. Still not sure of sticking the cut loose at the end. If the heel rips your feet end up on the floor quite fast! And skin is shit at the mo. Blah blah blah. Excuses etc.
I think you could prob spend your core session a bit more effectively but I understand the draw of the Ab Ripper!
The nice thing about it is that it's done and dusted in 15 mins, so there's really no excuse not to do it. Happy to receive alternative suggestions though.
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Lots of outdoors this week = more vids for your viewing (dis)pleasure
M: Day off, started in Poudre Canyon. Most of it still closed from fires so checked out the Deliverance boulder. Warmed up and did Frenchy Special V5/6 quickly. Tried a V8 with no luck (lanky problem for sure). Finished there by doing a link-up of Frenchy Special into the end of Deliverance (a V10) to make a nice V6. Move on to Eltuck Bay but it was quite warm there and didn't have much luck (close on a V7 before LH stopped play).
https://youtu.be/e3F24xWzRBQ
T: Crimpd floor core
W: Density hangs 22mm -25lb. Push. Bench up to 205lb X3 *3. New PR and first time with two 45 plates :) Incline press, strict shoulder press, lateral and front raise
T: Clear Creek Canyon. Warmed up on fingerboard at home and went straight to The Animal V9. Did the top a few times, linked two moves in to the top, repeated the first move and tried the second. Tried it from the ground and managed to get through second move and top it out! Psyched - first V9 since 2018! Had a play on Fire in the Sky V7 above the river but def need a spot for that one.
https://youtu.be/E8H57sOPP4E
S: Ute Valley Park. Good to be out with regular partner again (he's been of injured). Interesting sandstone near CO Springs. Warmed up then did Floater V5 fairly quickly - a nice 30 degree wall. Tried Overhanging Arete V6 but couldn't figure out top - there seemed to be a cop-out RH top-out that didn't climb the arete which we wanted to stick to. Did Chick Floater V6, a variation of Floater and Chick Power to the right. Tried Chick Power V7/8 but couldn't commit to top dyno due to knee not feeling great.
https://youtu.be/FHTMb44BVJc
Knee still not amazing, not great on high falls or torquing heel hooks - think it's my partial meniscus that is irritated. Seeing doc tomorrow and hopefully PT soon. Cancelled first skiing of the season on Saturday but still able to climb at least...
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I got a cheapo abb wheel a while ago. Even less time required to mess yourself up. Or even more destruction in the same amount of time. Front lever progressions are quite climbing relavent and might be worth a do? I only boulder 7A these days so what do I know :boohoo:
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Good link Will. Funnily enough feet hitting the floor was never an issue for me.
I also agree with dunnyg’s take on abs/core training, but also only climb around 7A these days.
W/C 16/11/2020
M - Yoga, Almscliffe, chest, abs
T- Driving around, little bit at Lindley Moor, triceps, abs, yoga
W - Almscliffe, West Chevin, back, abs, deep stretch yoga
T - Yoga, abs, shoulders, Almscliffe
F - Biceps, abs, fingers, yoga
S - Almscliffe, yoga
S - Caley, yoga
A new week. Hoping for better weather. Still sticking with the plan so that hopefully can pick up where left off when a degree of normality returns.
M - Early morning is a thirty minute yoga session, concentrating on hip mobility.
Head up to West Chevin but it’s a bit damp when we walk in, so head up to Almscliffe. It’s dry but blowy. Warm up around Matterhorn area which is a bit calmer before moving back onto Silver Trout. Only very minor progress over last week, although do have it all sussed, just can’t consistently do the second move although do rule out some other options, so I am certain what I should be doing. When we get cold enough and the flasks are empty we call it a day.
International chest day, despite limited resources. Start off with 10x10 press ups, keeping good form throughout and keeping rests to 20-30 seconds (maybe 5x20 would be more taxing). Next is 3x12 single arm floor presses for each arm, resting while I do the other arm. Move on to 3x10 band presses whilst laid on floor. Some TRX work with Ys and Ts for 3x5. 3x8 flys with a band are up next. Finish with a superset of 3x8 fixed fly bands in a low and a high position. Do feel like I’ve worked my chest by the end of the session.
Abs roller for 3x20 with a hold for core.
T - Feels like I spend the morning driving around looking for dry rock. Ground wet at West Chevin so go up to Ilkley where the bottom metre of calf and some of higher holds are damp. Am determined not to go back to Almscliffe today, so ring Mrs B and ask if it’s still dry at home, which she says it is, head up to Buckstone but it’s high and in the clag. Last desperate effort is nipping to Lindley Moor, which is mostly wet but do find an entertaining little capping roof and do a few eliminates there before I run out of dry rock and go home. Some days you get lucky, some days you don’t.
Weights is tricep training today. Start off with 4x12 goblet tricep presses. Follow this with 3x10 dumbbell close grip presses. French presses for 3x8 and skull crushers again for 3x8. Overhead dumbbell tricep extensions to follow for 3x10 on each arm. Finish weights with Tate presses for 3x12. Been a good burn for the arms today.
For abs I do 50 reps on the abs roller.
Yoga today is for relaxation with a bit of hip and quad stretching.
W - Up and out nice and early. Head up to Almscliffe and get there just after it gets light. Dry but windy. Crack on with the traverse around Si’s Arête. Feels real tough today, but slowly start putting bits of it together, until eventually it’s done and dusted. Play with the problems up the rib to the left but without any real success. Wind picking up. Couple of goes on Silver Trout, trying a different boot. Much more solid on second slap and go from second move to the top, but can’t squeeze in first move. Give up as getting cold. Drop in to West Chevin on way home and grab a quick tick of Eat the Light in four goes, which I’m well chuffed with as couldn’t get close earlier in the year. Crimp is obviously coming along nicely.
Get home and train my back. Start off with 3x15 pull ups, which still feel very odd in such a narrow grip. Move on to single arm rows with a hold at the top for 3x10. Next is 3x10 kettlebell pullovers. Not done these in an absolute age, will do them more in the future as feel good for back, chest and core. Finish with a superset of 3x8 single arm band pull downs and pulls to the face.
3x20 ab roller reps with pause for abs and core.
45 minutes yoga for deep stretch. Do appreciate the stuff that the gym is putting online as do seem to be helping relaxation and mobility. Bit more practice of elbow planche, improving although do manage to get a carpet burn on my forehead.
T - 30 minutes yoga for hips to start the day. A quick elbow planche practice, but learning from yesterday today is on a yoga mat and no injuries are accrued.
For abs do a few reps of Mrs B’s ultra slow quasi dragon flag exercise, followed by 50 ab roller reps.
Shoulder work today, as I wait for the weather to brighten up. Heavy single arm presses to start for 5 singles. Move on to 3x15 second wall handstands, which is as good an isometric shoulder exercise as any. Move on to a Giant set of lateral raises, front raises and reverse curls all with a hold for 3x12. Standing rows for 3x8 to follow, keeping form good and avoiding rotation. Band lateral raises for 3x8 and fixed band front raises for 3x8 next. Scapular raises to finish. Do seem to struggle with these particularly engaging on left side.
Go up to Almscliffe for a bit of a social climb. Pretty busy up there but able to keep a distance. Warm up behind Morrell’s and then get going on a couple of the eliminates on the Egg. Manage a couple which I’m pleased with but despite being at the top of Pipping Arête five times, I fail to suss a method that actually gets me over the top. Hey ho!!!!
F - Biceps for weights today. Begin with strict wide grip curls for 3x8 and follow it up with 3x8 strict narrow grip curls. Next onto 3 sets of 21s, which is a killer. Standing hammer curls for 3x10 before working through standing sets of 3x10 alternating curls and 3x8 Zottman curls. Finish off with isometric plate holds for 3 sets of 10 seconds in hammer, pronated and supinated positions for that final punishment.
3x20 reps with the ab roller, pausing at the bottom of each rep.
Spend about an hour benchmarking my finger strength. Surprised that on pretty much every grip type that I’m marginally stronger on my left, although don’t really get to test crimp strength.
Evening yoga session concentrating on shoulder and chest mobility.
S - Set off up to Almscliffe to get there for first light, in the hope of missing the crowds and the rain. Get on the Egg again. Finally top out on Pipping Arête and then sort out how to start the problems which come out with LH first. Do one and then sort the moves on another. Remember why I’ve always loved the Egg, apart from the footlock starts, it’s just like climbing on a board, except much better. Toughest job today is staying warm in the wind. Wander around looking for a bit of respite from wind, but fail. After about two and a half hours decide it’s time to go home.
Some late afternoon yoga to stretch my hips a bit.
S - Go up to Caley Roadside early in the morning. Beautifully peaceful as even the road is pretty quiet. Get back on Scoop Arête which has become a bit of a nemesis over the summer and autumn. Find about 6 different ways of being able to slap the hold with my left hand but no way to hold, so change sequence and find a way to go with my right and a few moments later am stood at the top wondering how to get down without getting my boots filthy (and then when wonder why I still call them boots as the last thing I had that was evenly vaguely a boot was probably La Sportiva Megas around 1987). Happy with my efforts I’m back in the van by 0930.
Zen yoga in the evening which is very legs and hips focused.
A good week, started off badly but then things came together a bit. Good to get some long awaited ticks done. Training going well, weight going down and perhaps my longest period off booze for many many years, possibly decades, although given that I have an advent calendar filled with Japanese whiskies.......that won’t be lasting much longer.
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Best go below
Nice Will, you've done the hard bit there! Allez!
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LTG: tick a new (to me) Font 7a
STG: lose some of my lockdown timber
Another week of being a WFH Product Owner / Year 2 Teacher / Dad...lot of plates to spin.
Didn't really get a whole lot done apart from the odd bit of lunchtime yoga a few times a week. Think I'll swap this out for Ab Ripper X given the above comments.
Sunday, forecast was looking iffy but feasible so went out with son to Holmfirth, with intentions on trying Holme-ing In after seeing a chap's video on Instragram.
Turned up with crag soaked, but problem actually dry. Dad warmup, repeated Holmeward Bound 2nd go, then pulled on the problem.
Got the first moves sorted but the pop is really quite a long way for the shorter gent (Mike Adams problem in "reachy" shocker). Had a couple of throws, realised I'm gonna need to find alternative feet for the move. Had a brief rest, and then it tipped it down so sacked it off.
Was nice to get out, and I got 30-45 minutes more climbing than I'd been expecting.
Kids back to school / childcare this week so will have a bit more time to myself during the day. Planning to use my lunchtimes to do "stuff".
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Motivation low but hanging in there.
Anderson hangs? Max hangs? Recruitment pulls?
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Power Club 558
Looking strong there Will. I see you've branched out Shark! Chapeau Coops - excellent week! Good week Duma and no let up on the volume Gollum! (using the toe hook beta on silver trout?)
Mon: 1 arm PU day. -16>-4kg. Then two very sketchy reps on both arms at -3kg (3kg assist)
Tues: Rest.
Weds: Birthday - took the day off. Spent 3-4 hours driving around looking for dry rock that I wanted to climb. Rubicon (wet), Tor (people on where I wanted to go), headed to Curbar (drizzled) cleared up and diverted near home to Lancs quarries - got out of car - rock wet. Pissed it down. Gave up - went home and had a bath.
Thurs: Gardoms N with Dolly. Kidneystone - not idea conditions (moisture about - though rock was dry). Worked all the moves - did it in overlapping sections - ran out of skin. Stopped before putting at tip through. A bit gutted - BUT - I was close to (hard) 7B in a session - and one thats quite knacky/sequency - so felt good about it later. Then went and had a quick pay on Soft on the G to see if my lockdown gainzzz helped. No. As you were....
Fri: Board session. Fingers felt tweaky - so played on new jugs (birthday present).
Sat: 1 arm PU day. -16 > -5 both arms. Left arm gave up at -5 but right carried on to -3...
Sun: Day pass. Out to Lancs edges to try a 7C I'd seen some new beta on. Spent 3-4 hours on it... got well stuck in - all on two hard moves (almost 1 1/2 moves). Three/four different methods. Net result was 6 seconds of climbing and no tick - but success. Whilst pottering about (improving the patio below problem) I toppled a large (0.4-0.5m^3) grit bloc down the back of my knee over the hamstrings... Thought that might have been in :-/ but luckily just a glancing blow and a big bruise. Felt properly done in when I got back to the car... shattered.
Injuries/niggles. Been going pretty hard the last 7-8 months, so surprising I've not picked up anything sooner - but whilst Tennis Elbow on the left has eased, I've developed some Golfers on my right. Well - its that kind of "is that DOMs or tendinitis" type ache. Passes after a couple of days - but flares up in the same spot. 1 arm PU is the obvious aggravator and I shall stop this week - which is disappointing as I am still making gains there. Middle finger on RH has some clickyness around the first (top) pip (I think) joints.. sometimes this hurts but often not at all - a weird intermittent one. Fine on rock - but I think trying some one arm hangs on a 20mm edge last week tweaked it a bit...
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Shark, can you find another syked lodger? A pet belayer is a considerable advantage.
Coops, good to hear everything is holding together more or less.
For everyone doing “core” exercises, don’t forget your posterior chain!
A twofer... bruised big toe, tweaky elbow, and lockdown meant it was a good time to take a short break from climbing.
Walked 12-13k steps: every day.
Shoulder strength (handstands, side-planks, IsYsTs, horizontal rows): 11 days.
Fingerboard (as elbow rehab.- short hangs at ~60% max.): 3 days.
Short run: one day, toe didn’t like it.
Aim to start building back up this week. Toe now tolerates mocassyms so might try one of the London outdoor boulders or some buildering.
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Weight - 10st7lbs
M - Trail run 9.25km with 366m height gain. Shoulder stability + core. Assisted one armers + offset pull ups with finger board.
T - Shoulder stability + core. Assisted one armers + offset pull ups with finger board. Back 3/2 on the fingerboard + 35 degree slopers with thumb. Rotator cuff weights.
W - Big trail run/hike in the mountains. 30km with 2100m elevation gain.
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - warm-up at home and then drive 20 minutes to try one of my nemesis routes "Hyperfreiflug" which is only meant to be 8a+ but I just can't get up the thing. It is the longest an 8a+ has ever taken me and, as it is the direct finish to a 7c+ and they both share the same first crux which I have still not been able to climb through from the ground, the longest a 7c+ would have ever taken me! Was a pretty decent session and I was more solid on the route that last year. Trail run afterwards 11.54km with 540m height gain.
S - Day out cycling. 76km with 700m height gain.
A pretty good week despite having very bad muscle soreness in the legs after Wednesday's outing. I have decided with the restrictions, now is a good opportunity to try and finish my nemesis route at the local crag. I can warm-up at home and my girlfriend doesn't mind giving me a catch for a couple of hours. The only downside is that is crimpy as hell and my right index tendon is still not good. I have started to try and actively massage it and ice it which is making it more painful at the moment but I will persevere and see if I can get it to progress after not much change in a month.
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Motivation low but hanging in there.
Anderson hangs? Max hangs? Recruitment pulls?
;D
World of difference between last Monday and this morning at the Tor today. ;D
Will post about my leaf shifting protocols later.
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Motivation low but hanging in there.
Anderson hangs? Max hangs? Recruitment pulls?
;D
World of difference between last Monday and this morning at the Tor today. ;D
Will post about my leaf shifting protocols later.
Cheers I was about to ask. I wouldn't like to miss my top form in this short season.
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M - Roche - did Bad Habits Sit in half a dozen attempts, onto Faith Right Hand, same grade but with no success on the [only?] hard move. Moved to Tony's Undercut Elminate but spent ages trying it undercut - flatty - top before realising it's eliminate the crack rather than link those 3 holds. There's only one more hold but it makes a lot of difference, worked it out but was too tired to link
T - Roche - Did TUE in a few attempts, tried FRH again but still couldn't do that move, Core back home
W - rest. Core and mobility
Th - Roche Still nowhere on FRH, did Sundance (1/2 grade easier) in 3 attempts. Brief look at Faithless LH, which felt like it'd climb well, and Tight Hole, which I was struggling for reach, and possibly strength.
F -AM. 5 x lengthy hangs, Conditioning and contact strength
PM started new job which involved lots of lifting and carrying
S - second day at work, lots more lifting and carrying
S - nowt
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M - rest.
T - max hangs. 3kg assist, better than last week. Getting there at this weight but fuck me its slow, especially only doing it once a week. Pressups and stability hangs to finish.
W - core and stretching.
T - Anderson hangs. +3.75kg on the edges. Completed them but with a struggle. Slopers at bodyweight felt nails but better than last week. Being well rested is absolutely key to me being able to do well on these, any shoulder fatigue and I'm out of there.
F - rest.
S - first day of a week off work. Predictably enough, van wouldn't start. Booked into garage for Tuesday (hopefully just a new battery). Insured myself on girlfriends car to ensure I could get out the next day.
S - Burbage South. Fox House road a total circus with cars everywhere, didn't realise what a public service that pub car park provides. Tried Electrical Storm first, which felt really hard. Couldn't make move to crimp and had no idea how to move off it even if I did. Rob and Theo both managed it, impressive. Moved along to Attitude Inspector which I did quickly via the double dyno method; the only way for the short! A friend eviscerated himself on the top jug, ripping three flappers. Moved along to The Knock which I did above a load of mats; great route and better as a solo surely. On to The Alliance; surely I was climbing better than when I last tried it and Will Hunt burned me off all day? Alas, my arms hadn't grown and I still couldn't pull on. A power spot which allowed me to test how wide the boulder was halfway up confirmed that this boulder is impossible for me; even halfway up I don't have the span for it. Everyone else did it fast and Remy took several sizeable lobs from the top losing more skin in the process. Final blast at Desparete which felt better than last time; I immediately got higher and was optimistic about doing it, but tiredness hit and I went backwards. Great day out despite the relative lack of ticks; hopefully I have teed up a few for the future.
Off work this week so looking forward to climbing as much as possible; will probably leave the training and prioritise getting out on rock.
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T - max hangs. 3kg assist, better than last week. Getting there at this weight but fuck me its slow,
You're young, there's no rush, take it steady, get there in time rather than getting close quickly then having a set back. you'll get there, bet one day you'll just unexpectedly pull on, feel great and boosh.
And btw, same for me on Leccy Storm and Alliance, I've never done Attitude Inspector either, never thought to double it, good effort..
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M- Limit Boulder in AM, PM -RP's(20mm right 3-pull ave 136#, L ave 137#, 8mm Full Cr 3 pull ave right-113#, L-115, Jug Pull R 184, L 188)
T-Moonboard 2019 set, 15 benchmarks up to 7B
W-Rest
Th-AM Project Bouldering (3 x7C+/8A) PM- Repeaters
F-AM Capacity Boulder (12 x 7B+/7C), PM- Density Hangs
S- Snow Bike 2.5 hours
S-light hip work and stretching, 95# deep bulgarian split squats. 15 sec iso hold at the bottom.
Fingers are managing the load barely...
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Power Club
Mon - board climbing, circuit, tired. TB DL X5 + farmer's, press + overhead carry in blocks of 1', 1' rests, x16 sets total.
Tue - rest.
Wed - TBDL 70 kg x5, pull ups x5, overhead walk 1' EMOM, 1' rest and again x10.
Thu - boxing bag, Tabata, TBDL 30" finisher.
Fri - rest.
Sat - garage session, very strong, one of the most satisfying ever. Snatch squat, snatch, snatch rack pulls all 5x5. Maybe something else that I don't remember.
Sun - board, one problem then circuit. Tired. Weights.
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I got a cheapo abb wheel a while ago. Even less time required to mess yourself up. Or even more destruction in the same amount of time. Front lever progressions are quite climbing relevant and might be worth a do? I only boulder 7A these days so what do I know :boohoo:
On the back of this, did 50 ab-wheel roll-outs yesterday instead of a crimpd core session and the DOMS are real...
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BTW, nice one Coops, good to see what you were psyched about in YYFY, looked a good fight.
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BTW, nice one Coops, good to see what you were psyched about in YYFY, looked a good fight.
cheers. Bit of a lowball, chossy, dabby roof at the lower end of the grade but psyched nonetheless :)
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Psyched for your DOMS! Variety is the spice of (training) life...
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cheers. Bit of a lowball, chossy, dabby roof at the lower end of the grade but psyched nonetheless :)
Perfect, keeping the true UK spirit alive over there :lol: :2thumbsup: