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the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: Andy B on August 04, 2020, 04:37:45 pm

Title: [Cornwall][Helman Tor][Original Virtue]
Post by: Andy B on August 04, 2020, 04:37:45 pm
Original Virtue 7aish

On the In The Gutter boulder.
The centre of the roof direct.
Sit start on the low flake. Move up to the break and cross the centre of the roof on crystal undercuts to the lip and gutter, then mantel direct to finish.
It can also be done eliminating the lowest block for feet by crouch starting in the break, which makes a better problem for those who are able the reach the lip with their feet still on the lowest block.
Title: Re: [Cornwall][Helman Tor][Original Virtue]
Post by: A Jooser on August 04, 2020, 06:17:52 pm
Is this different to Caedmon Mullin's problem 'Gutted' (V4 or English 6b) which features just after the hour mark on his Gone West film? The description is similar to that for Gutted in the Cheesewring & SE Cornwall guide (2012). I see Gutted's not on the UKC database. Maybe your problem is further to the right?
Title: Re: [Cornwall][Helman Tor][Original Virtue]
Post by: Andy B on August 04, 2020, 07:48:44 pm
I only had the UKC info, and there’s only room for one line through the roof, so if there’s already a problem through the roof, that’s what I’ll have done I would have thought.
Title: Re: [Cornwall][Helman Tor][Original Virtue]
Post by: Andy W on August 04, 2020, 08:18:10 pm
Original Virtue 7aish

On the In The Gutter boulder.
The centre of the roof direct.
Sit start on the low flake. Move up to the break and cross the centre of the roof on crystal undercuts to the lip and gutter, then mantel direct to finish.
It can also be done eliminating the lowest block for feet by crouch starting in the break, which makes a better problem for those who are able the reach the lip with their feet still on the lowest block.


Is this different to Caedmon Mullin's problem 'Gutted' (V4 or English 6b) which features just after the hour mark on his Gone West film? The description is similar to that for Gutted in the Cheesewring & SE Cornwall guide (2012). I see Gutted's not on the UKC database. Maybe your problem is further to the right?

I thought the same thing. I was trying that problem and rather annoyingly Caedmon did it first.  ;)
Title: Re: [Cornwall][Helman Tor][Original Virtue]
Post by: tomtom on August 04, 2020, 08:54:47 pm
And V4! :D
Title: Re: [Cornwall][Helman Tor][Original Virtue]
Post by: A Jooser on August 04, 2020, 09:20:49 pm
To be fair though, it was probably only given V4 to make Andy W even more annoyed that Caed did it first.  ;)
Title: Re: [Cornwall][Helman Tor][Original Virtue]
Post by: tomtom on August 04, 2020, 09:48:32 pm
To be fair though, it was probably only given V4 to make Andy W even more annoyed that Caed did it first.  ;)

:D
Title: Re: [Cornwall][Helman Tor][Original Virtue]
Post by: macca7 on August 05, 2020, 12:12:57 am
Original Virtue 7aish

On the In The Gutter boulder.
The centre of the roof direct.
Sit start on the low flake. Move up to the break and cross the centre of the roof on crystal undercuts to the lip and gutter, then mantel direct to finish.
It can also be done eliminating the lowest block for feet by crouch starting in the break, which makes a better problem for those who are able the reach the lip with their feet still on the lowest block.


Is this different to Caedmon Mullin's problem 'Gutted' (V4 or English 6b) which features just after the hour mark on his Gone West film? The description is similar to that for Gutted in the Cheesewring & SE Cornwall guide (2012). I see Gutted's not on the UKC database. Maybe your problem is further to the right?

I thought the same thing. I was trying that problem and rather annoyingly Caedmon did it first.  ;)

Was thinking exactly the same, definitely the same problem but the new grade is probably much closer to the mark!
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