UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: Banana finger on June 21, 2020, 01:18:50 pm
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Hi All, does anyone know what this is? Looks mega. Couldn't find any info on it. Looks like theres a bolt line left again.
Sorry if this has been covered elsewhere!
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They're open projects. Very hard 8c and up
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Ben Moon did the RH project yesterday at "reachy" 8b+.
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Good effort, it was kinda my proj (but open as Hayden said) - I put the majority of bolts in it but never managed the crux moves up the little hanging crack. Must admit I was thinking it would be in the 8c ball park but I'll obv bow to his superior knowledge and the fact he could actually do it. Worth pointing out the bolts I placed were those temporary, screw, non-stainless steel ones so would be worth Ben replacing them (unless he already has)
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Is it minging peak crimping or ok for those of us with tweaky fingers?
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Nice! Shame about the "reachy" part. Have you done General Incomptetance/Dismissal Ben?
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It's not super crimpy, by Peak standards. I went on it earlier this year for my biennial look with a tweaky finger and it wasn't ideal but it's not like Rubicon/the Tor...
Little boulder problem up the bottom wall (maybe low font 7, hard to grade when taking in self belaying on gri gri). Good rest in the big break, couple of set up moves into what felt to me a hard 2 move boulder (to only ok holds, clip but no rest) then maybe around 8a to the top. I didn't feel like I was having to try it a really hard way as I'm short, didn't seem like an obvious reachy way but I could well have missed something - I never went on it with other people or even with a belay off someone - always on my own self belaying. It's good climbing and line only slightly spoilt by the easy big break and slightly loose rock just below.
I've not tried General Incompetence, looks hard and bold - there is a new little thread in situ in the break so looks like someone has been trying it.
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I tried the trad route 3 years ago but couldn't work out the moves. Once your in the groove it's piss to the top. I had 3 fingers injured at the time though and wasn't willing to full crimp anything so may be ok but I suspect it's still a font 7C to get into the groove.