UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: eastside on February 18, 2020, 01:12:27 am
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I can manage about one international trip per year from the US.
So far I've been to
Squamish x2
Albarracin
Fontainebleau
Going back to Font again this year.
Just wondering if it's worth it to fly over from the US to climb on the grit? I'm very curious to sample the syle. I'm pretty sure I'll get spanked.
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It's good fun but it's not on the same level as font and friends. Conditions can also be tricky so I think it'd be a hard trip to get right.
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I think Yorkshire grit has comparable quality boulders to most places (except font) just slightly more spread out. The weather is just a total pain and could ruin even a pretty long trip but that being said you could even drive to another part of the country if the weather looked really poor.
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'cept when it is poor all over.
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It's good fun but it's not on the same level as font and friends. Conditions can also be tricky so I think it'd be a hard trip to get right.
I think if you were to plan a trip to Europe with the main intention of climbing on some UK Grit then it would work out... Keep that flexibility that if it does crap out in the UK for a few days then head somewhere else in Europe...
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Surely Switzerland, Rocklands etc would be a better bet?
But then I'm a sport climber so can't be that bothered with the grit.
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It depends what sort of trip you want to do. The weather stuff can be overcome by moving around a bit, but it is a risk. May or September would be good times to visit. Not the best conditions but fairly reliable decent conditions.
As Tim says, the quality is spread out.
Something that hasn't been mentioned is skin. I personally could not boulder on gritstone for a full week (often I can barely manage a day!) It might not be too bad since you'd probably be sticking to the popular crags where some of the sharpness has been eroded away.
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I can manage about one international trip per year from the US.
So far I've been to
Squamish x2
Albarracin
Fontainebleau
Going back to Font again this year.
Just wondering if it's worth it to fly over from the US to climb on the grit? I'm very curious to sample the syle. I'm pretty sure I'll get spanked.
How long are these international trips?
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Yes... but that doesn't mean you should!
Grit (and the whole UK really) is in the category of "has (lots of) world class bouldering, but isn't a world class bouldering area" due to how hard it is to get conditions and the spread out nature of the areas. There's a reason not many wads come here to do the big hard lines, despite them being absolutely amazing. It's miles better than Albarracin.
The weather isn't that bad and it's rare to not be able to get out somewhere at least once a week provided you're flexible and don't mind driving (although that's not great for a trip!). It's most annoying if you have something specific you want to do, as then it's very easy to be completely shut down for months or whole seasons if you're really unlucky.
I'd go to Rocklands if I were you.
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I think the grit is totally worth coming over for but what I'd say is be prepared to travel as well. From Sheffield or Leeds (wherever you base yourself) you can get to loads of rock with a 2-3 hour drive (nothing for Americans) and mostly you'll find something dry. March is a good bet I think. Great to combine with some time in Europe.
The gritstone and Northumberland sandstone is world class in my opinion, obviously not everything but it's great, regardless of the weather. Gritstone also dries ridiculously quickly with a little wind and you can often get out when most people think it's a right off.
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Yes... but that doesn't mean you should!
Grit (and the whole UK really) is in the category of "has (lots of) world class bouldering, but isn't a world class bouldering area" due to how hard it is to get conditions and the spread out nature of the areas. There's a reason not many wads come here to do the big hard lines, despite them being absolutely amazing. It's miles better than Albarracin.
The weather isn't that bad and it's rare to not be able to get out somewhere at least once a week provided you're flexible and don't mind driving. It's most annoying if you have something specific you want to do, as then it's very easy to be completely shut down for months or whole seasons if you're really unlucky.
I'd go to Rocklands if I were you.
Every wad that has been here, that I know, has absolutely loved it! Like Nick says you have to be prepared to travel to find dry stuff. If you can do a longer trip then the UK is definitely worth coming, it's class.
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Thinking about it a bit more, I'm not sure the weather argument is too valid for an international visitor who's prepared to transfer between the peak and Yorkshire (and maybe even put a harness in and do some sport). We all know that the weather is shit for climbing on the grit, but that's because we all want to climb during peak grit season i.e the winter i.e when it rains most. A trip in early spring or late autumn when the weather is a bit more settled might not have the best conditions, but if you're wanting to bomb round climbing loads of classics at 2-3 grades below your max effort then that could work quite nicely.
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Wise words Monkey boy.
Another thing to consider is being a small country with a wide range of landscapes means that if (for example) you were to stay in Manchester you are 90 min drive from the Pass in N.Wales, Crags in the south Lakes - as well as all the grit crags in the Peak. Thats a big range of different landscapes and rock types available...
Or keep the flexibility - have a week here but no firm locations. If you are over outside of UK school holidays then getting acommodation anywhere will not be a problem...
Will has a good point about skin - there are only so many days in a week when you can climb on grit anyway - so some thing easier on the skin can be a great option..
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Yes, as per the last 4 posts, BUT with the usual weather warning (it IS that bad). Worth noting that Northumberland can save the day in the usual wet south-westerly bollox.
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Not all of Northumberland is grit though..
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Threads like this is why we need the return of Dense.
March is a good bet I think. Great to combine with some time in Europe.
I'll get back to you on this in a fortnight (I strongly suspect you'll be wrong). I personally think people are mad committing limited leave/travel to the uncertain weather of the UK. I'm not willing to gamble my leave on a Dolomites trip as sitting in the rain for a week before returning to work would be crippling. You're also a massive optimist (I'm well aware I'm the opposite); I searched out several of your lesser climbed Font recommendations and you'd made sure to film them from their best angle! :tease:
Just wondering if it's worth it to fly over from the US to climb on the grit? I'm very curious to sample the style. I'm pretty sure I'll get spanked.
Did you climb Aeroline when you were there (Albarracin)? I think it's very akin to a F7A grit arete.
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Probably some overly negative bias on this thread as the weather has been much worse here than usual this winter.
I’ve heard that it sometimes rains in Font too.
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Probably some overly negative bias on this thread as the weather has been much worse here than usual this winter.
Everyone thinks their local area is boring too. Every time I’ve been to the States local climbers have said to me things along the lines of “why the hell did you come here instead of -insert place they’d like to go on holiday- ?!” while I’ve been finding every detail fascinating and exotic.
When my mates came over here they fucking loved it- a day trip from Sheffield to Llanberis to climb a few slate routes on quite a humid day they describe as, for a variety of reasons, many of which as jaded locals we just can’t relate to, one of the best days of their lives.
You’ve really got to be an incredibly weird person to travel to a new part of a different continent and say “it was a waste of a holiday- the climbing wasn’t absolutely top class and we couldn’t climb every single day”.
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Probably some overly negative bias on this thread as the weather has been much worse here than usual this winter.
I’ve heard that it sometimes rains in Font too.
This. The UK is great. If the OP came for two/three weeks in early May and based themselves around Manchester they would be really unlucky not to have a great trip as long as they were happy driving.
I can't do more than two days on when bouldering anyway. 2 on in Font is pushing my luck. 3 normally means I can't climb for days! The odd bit of rain is a blessing.
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The grit is cool to climb. If it was properly dire during your visit, its relatively cheap to sack it off and go over to mainland europe if it is drier.
There is usually somewhere dry in the UK though, and most places really aren't that far away from each other.
The grit is pretty special, if bouldering is your bag, it is worth a trip I recon. I haven't bouldered much outside of font in europe, so can't compare it to non-uk venues, it does seem quite unique though. Some lines on grit are incredible.
The weather is much shitter in the UK compared to bishop obviously, but if you are flexible as mentioned above, there is most likely somewhere dry.
Northumberland is also definitely worth a look, as is st bees (imagine good desert sandstone boulders, but on a wavecut platform).
It only rains in font on rest days though...
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Everyone thinks their local area is boring too. Every time I’ve been to the States local climbers have said to me things along the lines of “why the hell did you come here instead of -insert place they’d like to go on holiday- ?!” while I’ve been finding every detail fascinating and exotic.
I dunno man, all the Squamish locals seemed pretty smug about their world class climbing with world class skiing just up the road!
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most places really aren't that far away from each other.
Apart from the ones that are, obviously.
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Maybe better stated that there are lots of nearby options to the grit within a 5 hour drive
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With all the talk of driving and of 2 hour drives being nothing to a North American: this may be true, but the nature of the driving is different.
Remember Honnold talking about the differences between driving in the States and the UK? In the US a 2-hour drive is turning onto the freeway, setting the cruise control, and then watching a DVD whilst keeping half an eye on the road (OK, I exaggerate); a 2-hour drive in the UK is a litany of traffic jams, Sunday drivers, road works, and generalised carnage. Maybe not what you want while on holiday...?
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I challenge the people on this thread recommending the UK as a good choice of trans-atlantic destinations to list in order of preference, bouldering venues in Europe (and perhaps somewhat closer to the OP) and suggest where they feel the UK sits in that list (without suggesting if it's a bit rainy in the peak one can drive to Pembroke and go tradding or spend +£££ and essentially buy another holiday to mainland Europe).
In the meantime can someone light the torch for A Dense Loner? It looks like Batman's but more bald.
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I've only been to font for a bouldering only abroad trip. The grit is less good than font. I wouldn't fly halfway round the world to go bouldering though.
I think the weather makes a massive difference. Climbing on mizzly grit in average uk weather. Reliable weather does make holidays way more fun.
I'd rather go to rocklands than peak grit, but that isn't in europe.
I think the swiss bouldering looks pretty good, and probably has better weather?
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Just go to Switzerland, grit is a nightmare to get conditions on I live two hours away in wales and I find it hard to make the effort
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To throw a curve ball in: if you're prepared to cross-out grit from the must-do list and are still interested in risking a trip to a UK-type climate then you could have as good a bouldering trip by going to Ireland. You'd have similar quality to the UK, similar variety of styles and rock-types. Similar shower-dodging flexibility is required, but Irish roads are much quieter than the UK. The motorways especially are fast and empty so travel between areas is quicker - Fairhead dolerite to Wicklow granite in about 3.5 hrs? You still get to fly across the Atlantic..
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Giving my 2c as a Yorkshire-born US expat. I think a trip is worthy if you are into bouldering history, and truly curious to try a relatively unique style/setting. But also it would help if you were excited about UK culture in general, as I think a trip focused completely on grit could be a total wash-out due to the weather (ie. have a solid plan B). In the trips I have had back home in recent years, I would say I had only 1 or 2 days a week with good climbing conditions. The Yorkshire moorland scenery and pub life is a great reason to travel. There are individual world class problems, but the venues are all small and spread-out, nothing compared to true world class areas like Hueco, Bishop, Font etc. But then again the gritstone vibe is pretty unique and special IMO. Northumberland sandstone is great also but much closer in line with sandstone you find elsewhere, less unique internationally I would say, and with a less celebrated history.
For those suggesting Rocklands as an alternative, it's a nightmare to get there from the US BTW. Over twice the travel and cost.
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Castle Hill?
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I personally think people are mad committing limited leave/travel to the uncertain weather of the UK.
I've done exactly this the last 3 years, using at least 2 weeks annual leave specifically to boulder in the UK. Granted, I live here so it's a zero/low cost option, but I like it that much and I've never not been able to climb in reasonable conditions during October, November, March and April. Went to Cornwall in August 2018 and had a great time.
Thing to do would be to hire a van, allowing you to go wherever the weather is best. Although the original thread subject was grit, I reckon Wales, Lakes, Northumberland and the SW are all just as good.
On Ireland; I've not been to Fairhead but it looks like you'd need a big psyched team to get the most out of it. Wicklow is only really okay. I wouldn't travel far to go there, even if the climate were perfect.
And then there's Scotland....which has problems as brilliant as they get anywhere in the world in my opinion when the weather is good (almost never).
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Thanks for all the responses. It's a lot of food for thought.
I usually manage one three week trip per year.
I didn't try Aeroline that I remember in Albarracin.
Yeah Rocklands is definitely high on the list but it's two full days of travel to get there.
I am definitely interested to experience the UK countryside as well besides the climbing, and I do love a good pub. Albarracin had a great scene along those lines, super fun and inexpensive with great food, in France the bars were less fun and more expensive - the food was still great though and the scenery was magnificent once we got out of the urban areas.
Also I do a bit of trad so there's that appeal as well.
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Oh and Fairhead, isn't that the crazy basalt blocks by the ocean, some of them are like 30+ feet tall with marginal landings? I watched a video, if it's the same place it looks terrifying.
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I personally think people are mad committing limited leave/travel to the uncertain weather of the UK.
You're taking this a little out of context but I'll admit I wasn't clear. The thread is about a transatlantic visit and IMO there are many places with less uncertain whether and arguably better bouldering that would be higher up my list. What about the other USA venues not mentioned?
I've done exactly this the last 3 years, using at least 2 weeks annual leave specifically to boulder in the UK. Granted, I live here so it's a zero/low cost option, but I like it that much and I've never not been able to climb in reasonable conditions during October, November, March and April. Went to Cornwall in August 2018 and had a great time.
...but again, the OP was in reference to grit, and is a transatlantic trip. I agree, if you're in the UK and willing to drive you'll be able to find something (Carlisle Slapper never had a problem finding dry rock) but personally, this isn't how I plan my transatlantic trips, for instance if I was trying to organise a trip to Bishop, I wouldn't just be booking a flight to California and nothing else. I also wouldn't be doing it just a few weeks before so that I could check conditions were looking favourable. I also wouldn't have a contingency plan of spending more $$$ and getting on a flight to RRG if the weather wasn't OK either. Perhaps that's just me :worms:
I've been to Fairhead in the early days of its bouldering development and it's good. However, we did spend a fair amount of time not climbing (I remember spending the best day holding down a skyhook for a wad not to do a route). We didn't have pad parties the size you might expect these days and I didn't get hurt (a minor miracle in itself).
I'm currently failing to get a friend from ~Marseille to visit the UK to go climbing. Every time I suggest it he takes the p*ss out of our weather. He's turned me down this year and instead he's off to Taghia.
Don't get me wrong, I think the UK has great and varied climbing but there are a LOT of good places to climb across the globe, and many of them have (on average) better weather.
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3 weeks in early /mid April (optimum daylight / temps /rainfall / midges) intending climbing grit, but with flexibility to go elsewhere if weather is crap in Peak / Pennines and accepting you might miss a few days due to weather, and you'll have a great trip.
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With all the talk of driving and of 2 hour drives being nothing to a North American: this may be true, but the nature of the driving is different.
Remember Honnold talking about the differences between driving in the States and the UK? In the US a 2-hour drive is turning onto the freeway, setting the cruise control, and then watching a DVD whilst keeping half an eye on the road (OK, I exaggerate); a 2-hour drive in the UK is a litany of traffic jams, Sunday drivers, road works, and generalised carnage. Maybe not what you want while on holiday...?
This is very very true. Not to mention driving on the "wrong" side of the road ;) And the tiny country roads. 2 hrs of driving in the UK, for someone used to US roads, can be absolutely exhausting, and occasionally terrifying.
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You're taking this a little out of context but I'll admit I wasn't clear. The thread is about a transatlantic visit and IMO there are many places with less uncertain whether and arguably better bouldering that would be higher up my list. What about the other USA venues not mentioned?
Well I've been to all of them! Pretty much - I live in Bishop, been to Hueco, Joe's, LRC, Rocktown, Horse Pens, etc.. And I can manage a shorter trip to any of those areas as the travel time is short and the jet lag is nonexistant, pretty much.
LOT of good places to climb across the globe, and many of them have (on average) better weather.
I believe it. My original climbing mentor was from the UK and I remember him telling me about a trip where he did nothing but walk around in the rain for weeks and look at all the cliffs he couldn't climb as they were all dripping wet. However I have never been to the UK and for some reason it has always appealed to me to totter around the countryside climbing boulders and the odd trad route before heading to the nearest pub. Perhaps I am over romanticizing what it would actually be like :)
I realize there are bigger and better venues that I have not yet been to - Rocklands, Switzerland, Grampians for example. And I want to visit those places as well. But I want to sample ALL of the areas that I can, before I get too old to pull down any longer. So I do think I'll make it out to the grit at some point. Although it will be hard to convince my wife, she really wants to go to Rocklands next and I can't say that I blame her, by all accounts it is some of the best bouldering in the world.
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This is very very true. Not to mention driving on the "wrong" side of the road ;) And the tiny country roads. 2 hrs of driving in the UK, for someone used to US roads, can be absolutely exhausting, and occasionally terrifying.
Last year in France we took the back roads from Versailles all the way to where we were staying in Larchant by sector Elephant, it was two hours of windy little roads and quite exhausting, and they drive on the "right" side of the road!
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If the current wet and windy weather in Yorkshire persists, I'm thinking of flying across the Atlantic for a climbing holiday in eastside's "shed" / bouldering cave. I returned just over a week ago from a fortnight in Spain, dry and usually sunny every day, climbing 12 out of 14 days, and I have not seen the sun let alone any dry rock.
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https://vimeo.com/47862263
Here's viddy from a visiting boulderers perspective. Though they might have edited some of that sun in... A van would see you right, you could aim for Torridon, Cuckoo Tor or Tor Eiffel at a moments notice and chase the good weather around. And you'll get every dry rock tipoff you need on here. Good odds.
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To all those talking weather, other than this current ridiculous rain spree, you can normally get out.
I’ve been to Yosemite three times for 2 weeks... two of those visits included 4/5 day snowstorms!
Personally I can’t recommend anyone flying this way but maybe it’s local bias and maybe it’s because I can’t fly to boulder.
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Can’t believe what I’m seeing in some of these replies. Shame on you! :-) Gritstone bouldering is world class. Absolutely worth traveling over the Atlantic for. As good as (or better) anywhere else I’ve climbed. Unique style in unique settings. Sure British weather is more unpredictable but you’ll always get climbing in. Unless you’re incredibly unlucky. It just adds to the charm and mystique. Doesn’t give up its secrets so easily.
Also if you do decided to visit. I’m happy to lend pads and guide books.
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However I have never been to the UK and for some reason it has always appealed to me to totter around the countryside climbing boulders and the odd trad route before heading to the nearest pub. Perhaps I am over romanticizing what it would actually be like :)
The lines, the history and the climbing on grit are world class. It's a bit more spread out than other areas and the weather is less reliable, so you need to plan and be psyched. Apart from during the random stable dry weather periods that mostly seem to occur in late spring and in autumn, its harder to have a good day in the UK just hanging out at a crag than it is elsewhere. But apart from that it's probably everything you think it will be. The country pubs, winding lanes, etc are all as romantic as you think they might be, it's just that, like anywhere, the romance wears off for the locals who then see the negatives. The driving isn't that bad if you're travelling outside of rush hour. It's not like being on an American highway, but no-one expects it to be. There is some chance of hitting an absolutely awful patch of weather and that chance is higher than in other countries.
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Yep. You can definitely have a good trip. If you wanted to go somewhere else and your mates dragged you to the grit then maybe you'd be more inclined to see the faults, but the heart wants what the heart wants. It may not be rational or the best decision on paper, but if you want to go and pull on the same holds as Jerry and Dawes and Brown and Dolphin, then you have to scratch the grit itch.
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https://vimeo.com/47862263
Here's viddy from a visiting boulderers perspective. Though they might have edited some of that sun in... A van would see you right, you could aim for Torridon, Cuckoo Tor or Tor Eiffel at a moments notice and chase the good weather around. And you'll get every dry rock tipoff you need on here. Good odds.
What a lovely video, thanks for sharing that.
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Not the Atlantic, but I've flewn across the channel many times to climb on grit (and not only grit), and many of my best climbing memoris were born there.
But what do I know? :shrug:
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Oh and Fairhead, isn't that the crazy basalt blocks by the ocean, some of them are like 30+ feet tall with marginal landings? I watched a video, if it's the same place it looks terrifying.
They're not all 30ft and are dolerite! :) although generally tend towards the higher end of bouldering. Maybe my view on what is considered a highball has been skewed! If i'm by myself I usually have 2/3 pads and can get on most things. No shortage of boulders to climb and having a sit and looking out across the sea to Rathlin and Scotland is pretty special.
If you aligned your trip with the Fairhead meet there's usually no shortage of pads or people about (and the weather is usually ok). Also some good bouldering in the Mournes but the walk in takes a bit longer.
Plus the Guinness is better :icon_beerchug:
I think generally in the UK & Ireland if you're able to move around you'll get dry rock (although current weather is not holding true to this :furious:)
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Is the Fairhead meet trad only or is there a bouldering equivalent?
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And when is this fairhead meet you speak of (if bouldering)
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I can manage about one international trip per year from the US.
So far I've been to
Squamish x2
Albarracin
Fontainebleau
Going back to Font again this year.
Just wondering if it's worth it to fly over from the US to climb on the grit? I'm very curious to sample the syle. I'm pretty sure I'll get spanked.
Yes. :)
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Fairhead meet is traditionally the last weekend of May. The main meet is trad but for the last few years a concurrent bouldering meet has been organised by guidebook writer Rob Hunter.
Plenty of safe brilliant problems for a lone boulderer with 3 pads and a lot of the best blocs have had the landings patio'd (getalifegetapallet..) or improved. Also plenty of 30-foot horrors with 20-foot holes under them!
Mournes, Cooleys gabbro, Wicklow, some great stuff on the west coast of Donegal, plenty of top quality areas if you scan the select guidebook, think the second edition is out this year?
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Thanks for all the responses! And thanks for the generous offer Jamie.
Brought this subject up to the wife last night. She's psyched actually possibly even for next year but also wants to include Scotland. Which sounds adventurous. I think we'd likely get a van and bring trad gear as well and have a mixed bouldering/trade/wandering about type of trip. I'm most psyched for the grit for boulders and trad but from that video Kilshorn looks pretty epic as well, minus the midges. Is there a window of time in the fall when it gets cold enough to kill the bugs but still dry enough to climb?
Thanks again
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Kishorn boulders are good, but a bit limited and spread out.
Torridon is miles better, the rock quality, lines and scenery are just amazing. Long drive from the Peak, but loads of options for stopping places on the way if you are road tripping it; Lakes, Glen Nevis, even Dumby if you are desperate!
Midges are rarely an issue out before mid / late May, but can be a bit earlier if it's really mild. Late April you would generally be OK.
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I think if you include Scotland then you need to be prepared to not get to all the places you may have on your list and definitely come back. I did a two week road trip round Scotland that was mostly trad but some bouldering and sport. It included Old Man of Hoy and then all the way down the W coast. The trad and all places we went was amazing, especially the further North you go. April you should be OK for midges and can occasionally have amazing weather (blue skies, snow on mountains) if you’re lucky
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Fairhead meet is traditionally the last weekend of May. The main meet is trad but for the last few years a concurrent bouldering meet has been organised by guidebook writer Rob Hunter.
Plenty of safe brilliant problems for a lone boulderer with 3 pads and a lot of the best blocs have had the landings patio'd (getalifegetapallet..) or improved. Also plenty of 30-foot horrors with 20-foot holes under them!
Mournes, Cooleys gabbro, Wicklow, some great stuff on the west coast of Donegal, plenty of top quality areas if you scan the select guidebook, think the second edition is out this year?
Also think the new Fairhead bouldering guide is due this year with loads more stuff in it!
Not made it bouldering in Donegal yet to my eternal shame, split arete is a great looking piece of rock
As an aside, what's the biggest bouldering area in the UK? I'm guessing Fairhead must be in with a shout
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https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=18678
513 listed problems!!
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I think post the new guide it'll be well over 1K!
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https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=18678
513 listed problems!!
Pah, might as well go to Church just as many linkups and minor variations.
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As an aside, what's the biggest bouldering area in the UK? I'm guessing Fairhead must be in with a shout
Here's a thread pondering that very question. (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21329.0.html)
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Too out of date to be of value. Stanage must have had at least that same amount added by Bonjoy in the last decade alone
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I’ve been to Yosemite three times for 2 weeks... two of those visits included 4/5 day snowstorms!
:tumble: did getting rained/weathered off on UK Grit just get compared to having the same happen in Yosemite :-[?
Last year in France we took the back roads from Versailles all the way to where we were staying in Larchant by sector Elephant, it was two hours of windy little roads and quite exhausting, and they drive on the "right" side of the road!
Have the people recommending the likes of Torridon read this? Torridon is 8H from Manchester Airport and about 11H from the London airports!
Anyhow I give up. Anyone for Danny's?
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compared to French roads A9 is a doddle (as long as you don't get stuck behind an Artic and know how Average Speed Cameras work).
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Doing a trip where you're chasing the unreliable weather forecast around the UK sounds miserable to me. You'll be constantly driving like a demented squirrel and profoundly disappointed in how changeable the conditions are anyway. Better just pick a spot and make the most out of it.
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Just have a word with the pilot: https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2020/02/200212121959.htm
And Kishorn is on another level to Torridon. It makes the soul sing. Torridon I just end up below Malcs with soggy boots.
And not that it matters but id rather one good day at Wolfrey or Slipstones than a week in Yosemite.
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And not that it matters but id rather one good day at Wolfrey or Slipstones than a week in Yosemite.
Slightly off topic but I've never climbed at Great Wolfrey. The unknownstones guide looks like there's a great day to be had just doing lots of 4s/5/s low 6s. So, do you think it's worth the 1 hr walk-in if you're a solo low 7s climber - two pads, no spotters?
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And not that it matters but id rather one good day at Wolfrey or Slipstones than a week in Yosemite.
Slightly off topic but I've never climbed at Great Wolfrey. The unknownstones guide looks like there's a great day to be had just doing lots of 4s/5/s low 6s. So, do you think it's worth the 1 hr walk-in if you're a solo low 7s climber - two pads, no spotters?
Not that you asked for my opinion but I think you'd get most out of a visit going in at least a pair. It's a long way with one pad let alone two, and will feel even longer if something goes wrong and you have to crawl back. Superb venue though.
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And not that it matters but id rather one good day at Wolfrey or Slipstones than a week in Yosemite.
Slightly off topic but I've never climbed at Great Wolfrey. The unknownstones guide looks like there's a great day to be had just doing lots of 4s/5/s low 6s. So, do you think it's worth the 1 hr walk-in if you're a solo low 7s climber - two pads, no spotters?
Of course. Wepwawet would really suit you. It's a Nez problem and it's basically Malham distilled into a boulder problem. Virtually every hold is a gaston with tonnes of core and shuffling your feet around to gain an inch of height. Loads of new stuff gone up. I think you'd probably be OK with 2 pads but even better would be to go with a friend.
The walk in really isn't that bad. Considering that Lord's Seat must take about 40-50 mins to walk to and that involves a big steep hill at the start. Wolfrey has a flat approach.
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Cheers. If it ever stops raining I'll give it a go - partners / spotters are unlikely, so I'll just have to be cautious.
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And not that it matters but id rather one good day at Wolfrey or Slipstones than a week in Yosemite.
Slightly off topic but I've never climbed at Great Wolfrey. The unknownstones guide looks like there's a great day to be had just doing lots of 4s/5/s low 6s. So, do you think it's worth the 1 hr walk-in if you're a solo low 7s climber - two pads, no spotters?
Of course. Wepwawet would really suit you. It's a Nez problem and it's basically Malham distilled into a boulder problem. Virtually every hold is a gaston with tonnes of core and shuffling your feet around to gain an inch of height. Loads of new stuff gone up. I think you'd probably be OK with 2 pads but even better would be to go with a friend.
The walk in really isn't that bad. Considering that Lord's Seat must take about 40-50 mins to walk to and that involves a big steep hill at the start. Wolfrey has a flat approach.
You what will? must be your lanky arse legs, took me 1hr 15 to get up to G Wolfrey. Takes me 30mins to get up to lords.
Anyway, coming for a trip. Think it depends on your situation. If you have a busy ass life and just want to go climbing for three weeks with some guarantee of touching rock, then UK grit is not the best option.
If you just want to come and experience some great varied and unique climbing, in the lovely (albeit, completely fucked) English countryside and do something a bit different to everyone else, you will have an absolute blast and I am sure lots of people will help you out.
Carbon debate: the irony is, if you keep travelling to escape the British weather it will only get fucking worse.
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You what will? must be your lanky arse legs, took me 1hr 15 to get up to G Wolfrey. Takes me 30mins to get up to lords.
He's fucking downgrading walk-ins now.
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And Kishorn is on another level to Torridon. It makes the soul sing. Torridon I just end up below Malcs with soggy boots.
It would be great if there was more than just one problem at Torridon.
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In answer to your initial Post/Question - YES :2thumbsup:
Grit is wonderful and the landscape and country that it sits in tends to be just as great, i used to travel from the Highlands of Scotland at least once a year to spend a fun packed week falling off it. Admittedly it was always in the summer so...And here in the main issue- We went at this time of year to guarantee good weather{and even then it might rain} BUT as it has been pointed out just lower your expectations and you will still have an awesome time. This is True for the whole of the UK.
As for Wales/Ireland/Scotland in a camper-van after or before sampling the Grit...i suspect you will not have enough time.
2 weeks just isn't enough to cover everything.
If you fly into Manchester, pick up a Van you are pretty close for the Peak and not too far from the best bits of Wales, Yorkshire,The lakes and Northumberland. A lot further to go if you fly into London.
The best bits of Scotland are However 1 days drive away{at least} and 1 days drive back down.
If you do make it up north give me a shout and i can point you in the direction of Great climbing/camping/Adventure/culture and maybe a hand with gear.
Ireland is almost certainly a separate trip {and rightly so} Its an amazing country and deserves time in itself.
Best of luck and happy travels
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It would be great if there was more than just one problem at Torridon.
Fair, I probably shouldn't make such sweeping statements about a venue ;)
This made me want to get back there the other day
https://www.flickr.com/photos/100362744@N02/49501573053/
I'd agree with Will. The wolfrey walk in isn't that bad. But I wasn't carrying two pads...
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It would be great if there was more than just one problem at Torridon.
I have never been but from what I understand this is absolutely not the case, various people have told me it is potentially the best bouldering in the country. I know tstubb has been, I am sure he will have something to say about it.
Edit: was this a facetious comment?
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It would be great if there was more than just one problem at Torridon.
I have never been but from what I understand this is absolutely not the case, various people have told me it is potentially the best bouldering in the country. I know tstubb has been, I am sure he will have something to say about it.
I suspect you may have fallen foul of Chris' sarcasm. Or I've fallen foul of yours...
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I was being sarcastic / a bit of a dick.
There is a ton of amazing bouldering there (I've been a few times, but not often enough), a lot of it not susceptible to sogginess that plagues the ground beneath Malc's Arete (which too many people seem to focus solely on) in wet spells, hence the comment in response to Alex's.
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Malc's Arete (which too many people seem to focus solely on) in wet spells, hence the comment in response to Alex's.
I think this is understandable though, there are few more aesthetically pleasing boulders in the whole country (/world). I guess there’s also not a huge amount more in that grade range at Torridon, all the other mega lines are harder or easier.
Amazing spot, slightly spoiled by the NW500 or whatever it’s called in more recent years.
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edit, moved to other thread..
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I was being facetious too.. Torridon is amazing. And you can walk and walk and find more rock to climb. But I do have to resist getting drawn back to Malcs...
I was sticking up for Kishorn. It's fairly spread out but far from limited. And the rock is maybe even nicer than a Torridon.