UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: jwi on January 04, 2020, 03:18:53 pm
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7boh83oJR00
Very interesting demonstration of how much mechanical deformation of fingers matters for holding sloping holds. In short, the tester cannot hang the 45 degree Beastmaker slopers unless he adds 10 kg weight.
I first assumed that the change in distribution of load (like when you cheat on a fingerboard by leaning halfway into a front lever) was an important contributing factor, but I got quickly disabused of this notion by the test with pulley help.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7boh83oJR00
Very interesting demonstration of how much mechanical deformation of fingers matters for holding sloping holds. In short, the tester cannot hang the 45 degree Beastmaker slopers unless he adds 10 kg weight.
I first assumed that the change in distribution of load (like when you cheat on a fingerboard by leaning halfway into a front lever) was an important contributing factor, but I got quickly disabused of this notion by the test with pulley help.
I can’t watch that video, if he’s not put in the effort to use an alpine butterfly for that pulley set-up then it’s not worth my viewing time...
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fair enough
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Aye fucking whatever.
Edit: Okay the SCIENCE at 0:24 might persuade me....
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Really interesting counter intuitive stuff. Thanks for link
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I think he needs to test whether a plant based diet affects his sloper holding... :D
Findings are interesting - not sure I agree with WHY it happens though...
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I think he needs to test whether a plant based diet affects his sloper holding... :D
:D
Maybe it is the religion? I've found that becoming Zoroastrian adds a full grade comparing to other monotheistic religions!
(OT: ^this is exactly how stupid I find most discussion of diet).
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I think he needs to test whether a plant based diet affects his sloper holding... :D
:D
Maybe it is the religion? I've found that becoming Zoroastrian adds a full grade comparing to other monotheistic religions!
(OT: ^this is exactly how stupid I find most discussion of diet).
I dunno man, I reckon those Catholics regularly consuming the blood and body of Christ must lead to better skin condition and maybe even an increase in finger pulp?
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Nailing hands to the slopers is probably cheating though.
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Great news, I put on stone over the last 2 months time to try and hang the 45degree slopers again.
Although realistically I think that Mani's experiment is flawed and if he hung extra weight of the back of his harness the result would be different.
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Great news, I put on stone over the last 2 months time to try and hang the 45degree slopers again.
Although realistically I think that Mani's experiment is flawed and if he hung extra weight of the back of his harness the result would be different.
That was my first thought as well, but I changed my mind as the counterweight was clipped in front as well. Did you try this out or are you speculating? (I don't have a sloper on my fingerboard as training slopers on fingerboard is a waste of time, so I cannot try it my self, but if I had it would take me less than a minute to duplicate the experiment with various load distributions)
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When I first tried adding weight to test my own finger strength I found that even on a flat edge I could hang more weight with it attached to the front rather than the rear of my harness.