UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: Will Hunt on October 21, 2019, 05:22:04 pm
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I had a go or two on this on Sunday and wondered if anyone had any beta to offer up.
The accepted hand sequence seems to be to keep your left hand on the starting flake and bump the right hand through to the Appaling Sloper (the next hold on from the little sidepull crease that you use with your RH on The Flakes). Then hang this while dropping your weight to the right and bumping your left hand to catch the sidepull crease. Then go for the final hold on the ramp with your RH and go for the top. Just right of the Appaling Sloper it looks like there is a little divot. Is it feasible to go to this and skip the Appaling Sloper?
Is hanging the Appaling Sloper easier with the right foot off? I notice in Will Buck's viddy that he goes straight to it before putting his RF in the deep starting hand slot. I guess that keeps your weight lower under the hold and makes it easier to hang? Is there any special way to hold the Appaling Sloper that makes it better?!
Once you've got your RH onto the final ramp hold, is it all over?!
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Pull harder. Climb faster.
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Pull harder. Climb faster.
😱😱 no downgrade?
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Is there any special way to hold the Appaling Sloper that makes it better?!
On an eyewateringly baltic day, aka velcro connies, aka cheating connies
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I've done it two ways, one holding the sloper to bring left into the side pull crease and the other getting the sidepull crease with your right as a gaston, then matching just above it with the left, then using the sloper as an intermediate when reaching right. In good conditions holding the sloper is easier. Matching the side pull crease was the way Dave did the first ascent.
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For a man of your height Will best way of doing the start is just pull on and go straight for the sloper. Shorter folk seem to put toe in the starting jug first, but that's not helpful for the tall.
Thereafter, I can think of six different ways I've seen people do the second move, matching LH into the crease. Part of the painful, season after season misery of failure, despair, and soul-/ego-crushing desperation, always thinking the next go might just be "the one" fun is working out which method works for you!