UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: shark on July 17, 2019, 09:24:09 am
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On the first of the two crimps you can now get all your fingers to the first joint.
I’d speculate that a slightly wobbly bit on the left side of it has been prised out (rather than fallen out) then excavated. For most (especially shorties) this was the crux.
(https://m.imgur.com/GCig8Jg?r)
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https://imgur.com/gallery/GCig8Jg?fbclid=IwAR3f0w-ZeOR88KnmciPHvCwEdKNg1wI9ESreayPw0_-_qAcrk-Dc5n3Wi6g
Certainly looks like its been dug out a bit at the back. Is this hold you take with the RH for the deadpoint to the slot?
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That might change the grade on over 100 problems at the tor. I still won't be able to do any though.
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Is this hold you take with the RH for the deadpoint to the slot?
Yes
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6C+
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6C+
:lol:
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I did this a couple of times last night. Not only does it make the first move much easier, you now have a nice big foothold.
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I saw that the other night.
Definitely excavated >:(
Someone please fill it in!
There are a couple of other bits and bobs scraped out there too, if you have a look.
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Who on earth is up there messing around with classic problems like this? I'm mildly impressed they managed to do it while it was (presumably) deserted...
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This is why we need TorWatch not BMCWatch Shark :tease:
Seriously though, what is wrong with people.
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The path of the righteous boulderer is is beset on all crags by the weaknesses of the selfish and the tyranny of weak men. Blessed is he, who in the name of power and strength, shepherds the weak through the valley of Burbage, for he is truly his spotter's keeper and the finder of long lost projects. And I will strike down upon thee with great vengeance and furious anger those who would attempt to climb my problems and modify their holds. And you will know my name is the Lord (of Power) when I lay my ticklist upon thee.
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I saw that the other night.
Definitely excavated >:(
Someone please fill it in!
I agree.
It’s not just Weedkiller - a load of linkups are affected too.
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The path of the righteous boulderer is is beset on all crags by the weaknesses of the selfish and the tyranny of weak men. Blessed is he, who in the name of power and strength, shepherds the weak through the valley of Burbage, for he is truly his spotter's keeper and the finder of long lost projects. And I will strike down upon thee with great vengeance and furious anger those who would attempt to climb my problems and modify their holds. And you will know my name is the Lord (of Power) when I lay my ticklist upon thee.
:lol:
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Sorry to put a stop to the conspiracy theories, but no chipping or excavation occurred. I used to hold this hold with a crimp to the right of the wobbly bit and my thumb pinching the wobbly bit. Turns out if you pinch hard enough, then the wobbly bit comes out. It left a load of mud/chalk residue which I cleaned up - possibly why it looks excavated.
I didn’t think it made much difference to the move for me - I generally find that move fine, but struggle with getting the heel to stay later on. Not sure I use it for foot either. Horses for courses I guess.
Let’s face it, Peak lime is imperfect. If we glue back everything that falls off, the crags would look a right state. Just accept that things change.
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Turns out if you pinch hard enough, then the wobbly bit comes out.
when did this happen and what do you do for pinch strength training? :lol:
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Pinches wall obvz.
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That's ruined the Tor for me.
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It even has its own twitter account now!
@weedkillerH
https://mobile.twitter.com/WeedkillerH
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Best thing you could probably do is stick the biggest piece of dynamite that will fit in there and light the fuse, to see if we can get any decent problems out of that bit of rock.