UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: Footwork on June 29, 2019, 12:07:05 pm
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Afternoon
I'd like to check out said problem at Badger Cove this summer/autumn. It looks awesome and ticks all the boxes (for a limestone problem that doesn't top out). Does it suffer from seepage much?
Wondering what the easiest way to the cove is as the Peak Limestone North (BMC) guide shows a couple of options. I don't much like the sound of the rope down a muddy bank way with loads of pads...
Also is there an insitu ladder down there for checking out holds?
Cheers
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It does top out, I've only approached down the slope, don't know how badly it seeps.
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Dave Parry was there last week afaik - give him a fb/ig message?
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It does top out
:-\ I'll probably take the drop off like Orrin and Nathan ;)
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Badger x3 doesn't top out, but it does finish up and left, not where Nathan finished in that video. Basically once you get the big pocket with the right hand you do two more pocket moves and finish on an obvious horn. Bewilderness is the only problem that tops out at the crag.
There are a few different ways into the crag, easiest way is to go to the top of the crag and lower your pad down into the cove via an orange rope. Then walk back on yourself about 4 metres and there is a red rope with knots in that you can use to go down.
Dave said it was dry last week, once dry it normally stays quite dry but can suffer from condensation as it faces east and gets pretty much zero wind.
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Pretty sure Dan said he topped it out when I went with him years ago just after he did it. I might be misremembering.
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I am 99% sure it meanders up and left for a few pointless moves after the hard bit but doesn't top out
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I am 99% sure it meanders up and left for a few pointless moves after the hard bit but doesn't top out
Yeah that's right, topping out is possible for sure, and I have no doubt Dan has but I think he mainly finished on that horn. It's not pointless though, I reckon it's droppable if you don't know what you're doing/like pockets.
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Yeah I suppose pointless was the wrong word, I just remember trying that last bit and it feeling like it only added some not great climbing above a pretty bad landing, it would be a really good problem as a drop off from the gold hold but those last few moves spoil it a bit.
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i topped it out direct originally but it was sketchy and loose, so opted for finishing in the hole when i abbed and cleaned it . properly on a return visit, as the good pocket didn't quite feel like a finish hold to me. Basically do whatever is fun and what you're into, quality moves or summits, its only limestone so it's not like its real rock anyway. god forbid anyone dropping off high fidelity at the pocket and taking the tick because they're not into dirty green mantles.
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Yeah I suppose pointless was the wrong word, I just remember trying that last bit and it feeling like it only added some not great climbing above a pretty bad landing, it would be a really good problem as a drop off from the gold hold but those last few moves spoil it a bit.
I liked the top bit, not often you get to pull on nice pockets like that. Each to their own I guess.
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I finished standing up in balance directly above the big pocket. Spent a bit of time looking at the options on a rope and it seemed the most logical and actually quite a nice sequence using solid holds (more pockets). Pulling left felt a bit contrived tbh, plus the big hole on the left is chossy. I pulled various bits off it when I was checking out the finish options. I might have topped out past the tree if I’d had a spot but I think I reversed and jumped off?
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I liked the top bit, not often you get to pull on nice pockets like that. Each to their own I guess.
I am probably being churlish because I couldn't do the start, it is a great place and an amazing find by Dan and Ned
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Talking about badger badger badger, has anyone ever found a peanut in the pocket? I chucked a peanut from the other side of the crag and it landed in pocket (probably one of my greatest achievements).