UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: Ged on June 09, 2019, 06:45:32 pm
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Is there much of a known sequence for this? I presume you go up to the better sloper, then way out left to the Carnage crimp, then into the undercut? I figured out I could do that, but used one of the starting undercuts of Carnage (The RH one) for my left as an intermediate. I can only assume that's horrendous cheating, and I'm way shitter than I think I am?
As an aside, I feel retrospectively pretty stupid for going down there on my own. High potential for pinging off backwards and smacking your head, no phone signal, invisible from the rest of the world, and an incoming tide!... Don't do ti kids. Take a friend.
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Hey Ged, Never seen the undercut used as intermediate just bosh straight across into crimp, really wide shoulderery move that’s obviously easier for those with big spans..
Totally agree, getting knocked out and then drowned would be a shit way to go!
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I had two goes on this the other week (until the pads kindly provided by other folk were removed as they were going). I was using the carnage undercut lh to come into decent sidepull rh, then big move to crimp etc etc. Seemed eliminate not to use it as its a traverse essentially and you use holds in the same area for feet.
Also at the start it seemed easier to start lh rather than rh in the further right undercut used for the sit start, which I later found was the opposite to what folk in vids were doing. Avoids a pointlessly hard sloper move.
Really good problem I thought.
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Yeah that sounds like what I was trying. For the start I had rh in the undercut, and could then go all the way to the good sloper with left. Lanky tw#t.
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This shows most of it https://photos.app.goo.gl/DsTFztUYaGwGShUR7
I think I did the same and then there is quite a tricky move to move across and match into one of the crimps, after which you just bosh up.
I recall it being very hard for the grade but that was largely because the rock seemed to have zero grip.
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So basically to get into the good RH sidepull above the slopers, I was using the low undercut on Carnage for my LH instead of that high crimp. Fair game or back around?
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I expect you know the answer already...
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Haha. Damn you!
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PS I've not done it, but I think in your heart of hearts you know.
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I think this is a totally valid sequence. Why wouldn't it be? Start sitting as for supercede, finish as for carnage. As long as you don't walk along the ground to get into carnage from that start I can't see the issue. It's not minus ten 😉
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Wadded.
As an aside, what's supercede like? Looks ace, and hard high up...