UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: Smith42 on April 17, 2019, 12:06:17 pm
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Saw this has been climbed a few times recently. Anyone know where this goes over the lip?
I thought it climbed the centre of the slab but I v watched the video of Orrin Coley climb SM as part of the Broken Arrow Link Up and he climbs the very right of the slab, sharing holds with Lost Arrowhead/Cave Dweller but staying left of the crack except for the odd foothold.
So I was just wondering if anyone knows if the middle of the slab was originally climbed as Stone Age Man or is the actual line to the right as OC video?
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I had a look at Stone Age Man this week and unless you eliminate footholds out right, it definitely feels easier than f7A+ to come out the roof and then go up the hanging arete - that exit felt like f6C+ to me
I gave mantling onto the slab a go and it felt grotesque but I suspect cleaning the slab would reveal a few more semi-decent holds. The mantle the way I tried it felt hard (like f7A+/B) so I assume that is the actual crux of Stone Age Man.
This seems to match up with the NMC guidebook topo, but I don't know for certain.
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I can confirm that you will find holds hidden in the slab...