UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: Smith42 on February 28, 2019, 01:27:00 pm
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Brimham,
Black Chipper Low where/how do you start? Both hands on the flake but couldn't find any foot holds? Had a few crazy ideas but felt bit unlikely for 7C. Anyone any useful beta?
Slapstick, are there any rules for this? Anyone any useful beta?
Thanks.
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Toe round on the slab to the right. Fairly marginal from watching Swanny who suggested it was only worth bothering with if you are local.
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I've got a clip of black chipper low on my insta (my profile's private so can't link it here, but will message you on there).
Regardless, I used a right heel on the lip of the slab and had my LF down left and out of the way. I also started cross handed on the flake, but that doesn't make much difference.
Getting into position before pulling on is surprisingly awkward, which does make it a bit rubbish really, but the rest is good enough.
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Slapstick depends on how tall your are. I would say if 5 foot 9 and over: undercut pocket, drop knee with reasonably high feet, then reach to the slopey crimp, hard foot move to get your heel toe in. Then use intermediate to got to the break. Otherwise: crimp the rail and jump to the slope rail, then the same heel toe.
I have a video of B4ree somewhere if you want it?
Good luck, I can’t touch the bastard thing!
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Otherwise: crimp the rail and jump to the slope rail, then the same heel toe.
Have you stuck this move? I couldn't decide if it was impossible or not
I have a video of B4ree somewhere if you want it?
Most definitely ;D
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I have a video of B4ree somewhere if you want it?
Yes please!! Keen to lank it. :dance1:
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Thanks you all. :punk: