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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Scouse D on September 30, 2004, 12:42:44 pm

Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: Scouse D on September 30, 2004, 12:42:44 pm: Look what I got
http://www.eatonhand.com/hw/hw015.htm

Mine is the sort with a chunk of bone attached to the tendon. Great how i've been climbing on it for about a month :?
Even better how I'm going to font in a month :cry:
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: dave on September 30, 2004, 12:49:29 pm: gayfinger eh? i hear these are all the rage in the forest:

(http://www.eatonhand.com/jpg/1417806.jpg)

seriously though, yours don't look at bad as them in those photos - are yo sure its the same? your seems to have more swelling. how did you do it? wierd.

having the finger in a bent position might actually be an advantage for font slopers!
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: Scouse D on September 30, 2004, 12:56:15 pm: had it x-rayed yesterday and the bone has come away with the tendon. Apparently if I remove the splint atall I'm back to square one. This is proper unfortunate methinks.
i'm gonna keep it splinted til font then climb for the week and then start a proper recovery session.
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: dave on September 30, 2004, 01:18:40 pm: you've got a good 3 weeks so thats no bad. what has to happen then, does the bone fragment have to rebond to the main bone?

can i sign your splint?
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: Scouse D on September 30, 2004, 01:21:18 pm: the splint just pushes the fracture together so hopefully helping them heal-the bummer is that if you remove the splint you're back to square 1. I don't reckon it'll heal before font so I'm just gonna make sure I don't properly fuck it until font then get treating it proper.
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: cofe on September 30, 2004, 01:22:34 pm: this really sucks man - i hope its better for the trip of trips. you'll need it for driving us down there etc...

:wink:
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: dave on September 30, 2004, 01:25:42 pm: still can't get me head round what you have to do to get your tendon to break off a bone :shock:
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: cofe on September 30, 2004, 01:32:14 pm: (http://whyfiles.org/137lightning/images/100_bill.gif)

even tendons have their price :roll:
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: JR on September 30, 2004, 02:30:36 pm: fall off life in a radioactive dustbin per chance?

granted mine was a ligament!
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: Bonjoy on September 30, 2004, 06:01:12 pm: Shit man, that's harsh :( .What were you doing, one finger press-ups?
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: BoulderHog on September 30, 2004, 06:43:08 pm: That really is shit luck, I've been feeling sorry for myself the last couple of weeks with a pulled tendon that won't piss off, but what you've got sounds much worse. Can you climb on it with the splint still on? How did you do it? Was it climbing related?

hope you have a very speedy recovery
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: Scouse D on October 01, 2004, 12:22:39 pm: Can't climb with splint on but will just fuck it off for font. Looked under the splint today and the skin is getting really fucked up with the sweat so might take it off soon and let it breathe til font.
I injured it playing football of all things, it was fine when i was doing one finger pushups...
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: dave on October 01, 2004, 04:02:20 pm: you maybe wanna try getting a small drill bit and drill some vetilation holes in the fingerpart, so you don't get bathroom skin. should be an easy job to do, and shouldn't interfere with the operation of the splint. word?
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: webbo on October 01, 2004, 04:13:17 pm: you could try using stump cream on a night.
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: Jim on October 01, 2004, 10:53:01 pm: Quote from: "dave"
you maybe wanna try getting a small drill bit and drill some vetilation holes in the fingerpart, so you don't get bathroom skin. should be an easy job to do, and shouldn't interfere with the operation of the splint. word?

don't forget to take your finger out first word :lol:
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: BoulderHog on November 01, 2004, 02:15:37 pm: What's the update on the mallet?

Did it survive Font? Could you climb anything near your limit?
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: Scouse D on November 01, 2004, 03:00:42 pm: Well it survived font ok but was very painful and is now very swollen. Started off the week trying wanting to climb some 7cs but had to lower my sights a little and was very happy to ice double figures of probems 7a-7b in the last three days with a fair few flashes. Gutted that i now have to take 4 weeks off but it's definately gonna be worth it.
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: Bonjoy on November 01, 2004, 03:19:04 pm: Did you get back on Michael Ange? My back and shoulders felt shredded the next day after going on that, in fact they've only just recovered today!!
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: Scouse D on November 01, 2004, 03:21:47 pm: Nah i left it after that day and had a rest day! That is one hurly burly problem!
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: dave on November 01, 2004, 03:23:15 pm: 7b+ my dick!
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: Scouse D on November 01, 2004, 03:26:21 pm: word to that.
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: Scouse D on November 01, 2004, 03:29:29 pm: heres what bleau.info think
http://bleau.info/cuvier/325.html
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: BoulderHog on November 01, 2004, 06:12:27 pm: Michel Ange is worth every 7C penny in the bag, it's as hard as 36.15 power, which also got 7B+ for a bit, but I think they have both settled on 7C now thankfully.

I found the trick for Michel Ange is to throw your right foot out as far as possible in order to match on the undercut, then the top is piss.

Has the mallet straightened out yet then?
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: dave on November 01, 2004, 09:31:30 pm: Quote from: "BoulderHog"
the top is piss.

music to scouse's ears.

:roll: :lol: :shock: :?
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: Scouse D on November 02, 2004, 11:05:37 am: Went to hospital this morning and they reckon 2 weeks more rest but they really ain't got a clue. Gonna rest up for 3 weeks then start training again.
It's looking sort of straight underneath but has a big lump on the back still.
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: dave on November 02, 2004, 11:23:56 am: rest rest, or scouse rest? are we talking "not climbing at all" rest, "going down the matrix in trainers" rest, "just doing routes" rest, or "not going indoors but still trying 7cs outside" rest??

rest in peace
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: Scouse D on November 02, 2004, 12:10:20 pm: I'm talking 3 weeks no climbing rest then remove splint and try to get some movement in it...but that is always subject to change :roll:
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: dave on November 02, 2004, 12:12:06 pm: see you down the 'trix thursday week then

:saythat:
Title: Mallet's mallet
Post by: Scouse D on November 02, 2004, 12:14:37 pm: I've started my ju-ju nads training regime already down the gym. I'm gonna get so musclebound it's untrue...