UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: Will Hunt on December 02, 2018, 07:44:49 pm
-
Very unproductive week. Was roped into scoring procurement tender documents at work. A full week of it. Dismally boring. Made evening guidebook work totally unpalatable. A very constipated and irritable toddler over the weekend didn't make the foul weather any more bearable.
Sacked off the usual Tuesday session in favour of growing some skin. Went on Friday instead. Warmed up, did some more purples and tried some yellows. Didn't enjoy it a great deal. Got on the 30 board and enjoyed setting what I thought would be a monster. Ended up going first redpoint so need to try harder.
That's it. No downgrades this week so hopefully Ben will say something daft to perk things up.
-
I'm going to structure my week a little differently....
Positives
M: Went to Craig Y Longridge - got spanked by Big Marine even more so than usual - but did Fertile Delta lots of times - apart from the final move(s) - the ones after the luuuurvely sidepull. So, I didnt do it etc.. but - this is signifucant progress on previous visits... Thought I'd got a puncture on the motorway (loudish bang noise etc..) but seemed OK.
Th: Went to the Manc Depot. Felt well ropey, but had a great session - good chats with good people - did a few purples/made progress and wondered at how hard most of the new Yellows were.
Managing to do some core work (mainly planks) whilst supervising the toddler while he's having a bath. Good little routine making use of dead time,
Negatives: (stop reading now if you don't want to hear a load of car/work related moaning :) )
Loud bang on Monday turned out to be *I think* some debris or other hitting front of the car. Punched a (small) hammer head hole in the bumper (split above it) and took out a load of the expanded polystyrene behind it (crumple stuff etc..) as well... taking it to see the minor body repairs person I know, but suspect it may end up being an insurance (e.g. £££ over the next few years) job...
Been working bastard hard on a grant proposal all week (deadline this tuesday) - whilst juggling Toddler duties - parental visits - and getting wet looking at stupid christmas lights at Dunham Massey etc.. along with lots of other people (might have been quite nice with 10% of the numbers...). Been glued to the laptop editing various docs and gathering peoples comments/work etc.. every spare moment (including now).
Found a spare 2 hours to go to the wall today... get in car - one of the tyres completely flat. what looks like a wall tie sticking out of it. Decide to do the winter wheel all 4 wheels change and get the puncture fixed some other time etc.. but this turns into an epic when one wheel (last puncture) was done up so tight it rounded the hex in the wheel brace... before causing any more damage, had to go and purchase a tommy bar and socket. Wankers had nearly stripped the thread doing it up so tight... (little slithers of thread starting to come off etc..). Anyway, eventually got all that done. 2 - 2.5 hour climbing window gone. At least I got a good core work out moving wheels tyres about and doing general mechanicing shit.
Moan over. Running a training course Mon > Thurs next week. Going to be a 'rest' week...
-
not a good week for me - joints generally bad
I did do a bit if video editing of old footage - good for psyche (hopefully)
M - big yellow gym - 8kg dumbell complexes, gentle dips, gentle pullups, kettlebell lunge walking 10kg in each hand
Tu - toes and fingers hurting more than usual - parent teacher feedback for youngest child, so got to take him out of school early and go to Rassams ice cream bar - a few sets of 5 pressups to try to change elbow pain
W - Danceathon with Beavers - 90 mins dad dancing - definite cold symptoms
Th - went to gym, didn't walk through the door - went for haircut instead - was due to get flu jab, but cold symptoms discouraged nurse
F - paracetamol, ibuprofen and codeine got me through a day of joint pain - Mrs Starfish looked stunning going out on the town with her mates :2thumbsup:
S - family stuff involving Jasper :2thumbsup:
Su - dicking about with snowboard equipment to set up Flow bindings on top of Palmer power plates to reduce boot-out. DIY successes around the home. Short session down the works where 5+ was my limit
-
Jeez, low psyche going around this week! Commiserations all for your troubles.
M - Almscliff in the afternoon. Rained on the way from Leeds and lots was damp but DWR in perfect condition. Warmed up and then did DWR and Stu's Stand first go. Puntered about a bit more just getting warm then managed Stu's Left first go after reminding myself of the moves (had tried before in the warm). Very satisfying to get this ticked with absolutely minimal fuss. Then did the stand of DWR LH first go and spent the rest of the session working out a good, reliable, way to link in the start. On the way home went to Depot Leeds and did a short intervals session on the 50 board; 10 problems I have fairly wired with 2 min rests inbetween.
T - lunch gym, few rounds of squats, bench press and TRX Is & Ts.
W - down to London for work. Due to train cancellations didn't get home until after midnight.
T - shattered from the day before.
F - felt incredibly lucky to get down to Burbage for the afternoon given the dreadful weekend forecast. Retro-flashed The Nose which was satisfying, then tried West Side Story. Last tried it nearly 3 yrs ago and made it much farther; best go dropped it with my hand on the jug. Then took the lamps down to The Terrace. Did all the moves quickly but then dropped the move to the slot about 10 times on the link. Good session really, very pleased to have gotten so close on both but obviously would have been nice to tick one or both!
S - rubbish day sorting out chores. Made it to Leeds Depot at half 6. Decided to have a little personal flash comp on the new yellows; tried 9 and flashed 2, dropping penultimate moves on a few others. I'd heard it was supposed to be a soft set but they all seemed about right to me. Then tried A Steady Intro on the board again, mainly trying to get the top wired but kept getting thrown off the penultimate move.
S - more chores in the morning but had a lovely afternoon catching up with friends.
-
I'm going to structure my week a little differently....
Positives
M: Went to Craig Y Longridge - got spanked by Big Marine even more so than usual - but did Fertile Delta lots of times - apart from the final move(s) - the ones after the luuuurvely sidepull. So, I didnt do it etc..
"the ones after the luuuurvely sidepull"... isn't there just one move after the sikka'd sidepull? Get the sikka'd hold as a sidepull (or a gaston if you are an eliminate loving traditionalist)... smear-up and hit the top?
-
W - Danceathon with Beavers - 90 mins dad dancing
When does that go on Vimeo?
Nick, I only tried a few of the Leeds yellows but thought they were nails compared to the last set. Maybe I picked the wrong ones, maybe I was being shit :shrug:
-
Unfortunately continuing the low psyche week even over here. Mainly due to shit weather.
M. Transworld. Felt good on it again just brutal sub-zero temps. Through into the second boulder on first go but fell with an annoying foot pop probably due to numbing toes. Second go managed to break through to the kneebar again and dropped the last hard move in the upper crux again. Then repeated good link from the end of the first boulder to the top on third go. Pleased to have a good session again but annoying having been so close and not being able to get back up there. Belayed Matt on Snooker, then he gave me the run down on 8-ball, a tough 12d. Pleased I managed to flash it, turned into a bit of a fight at the top with numb hands.
T. Brutally cold. -6 and snowing. Thought it sensible not to climb.
W. Slightly warmer, highs of –3 today! Climbed in the sun at Gold Coast which actually was too bad, fell off the last hard move of Golden Boy 3 times. Man, this thing hard for 13b. Somewhat frustrating session.
T. Huge temperature rise from below freezing to 12 degrees in the morning, everything completely condensed. Wasn’t a dry hold in the entire Motherlode!
F. Hot, Humid, everything still wet.
S. You guessed it. Went to Lexington.
S. Last day, woke up to clear blue skies giving such promise. Check the usual main crags to find them still dripping wet. Thankfully by the afternoon the sunny crags had dried up enough with it pushing 19 degrees, I wasn’t expecting to be belaying in a t-shirt at the start of December. Climbed at Drive-By, nice to go to a new crag for the last day. Couple of nice 11s and a 12a to warm up, then did Spank 13a. Fun power endurance to a V6 compression boulder. A relief to be able to climb on the last day even though it scuppered the plans of a mega mileage day but at least got to tick a few new routes to finish the trip.
An annoying end to the trip with the conditions crapping out and with the forecast for next week now looking bad it wasn't worth extending left us and feeling a bit over it and ready to come home. A shame that I couldn't finish off Transworld having felt really close on some goes but it just became such hard work to be trying a steep 40m pitch I some of these conditions. In hindsight its easy to think you could have tried something different or easier and had a different result but from the first few days here that route really inspired me and I had fun climbing on it even though it didn't quite happen, just one of the many reason to come back next year. All in all it was a great trip and I did some great routes and met some great people.
-
Nick, I only tried a few of the Leeds yellows but thought they were nails compared to the last set. Maybe I picked the wrong ones, maybe I was being shit :shrug:
Who knows, I'd been told they were bringing things down a notch but definitely didn't seem to be the case from the ones I tried (which is a good thing in my opinion).
-
M: Arch. Warm up then two-handed max hangs on bottom outside BM2K edge. +8kg, +12kg, +16kg, +18kg, +20kg, +20kg, +20kg, +16kg. Then climbed a load of problems including some slabs and some from the new set. Flashed most I tried (didn't try too difficult problems due to tired fingers), including a white (V5-7)
T: Crimpd. Hip and leg flexibility 30 mins workout
W: Arch. Smacked elbow very hard in warm-up. Couldn't do a press-up or pull-up. Did one-armers on the minute (other arm) then went home :(
T: X-ray to check elbow was ok, just seems badly bruised
F: Elbow feeling much better so chanced the weekend as last weekend outdoors till February :'(
S: Tor with 36C. Drove round a wet X and v wet Rubicon before going to the Tor. Did Basher's Right-hand (good beta from someone there) and then did Weedbasher RH. Briefly tried Ben's Roof but didn't really get on with it, those holds are horrible!
S: Mate's board. Good board session, trying hard
Elbow still quite sore. No pain while climbing, just hurts a lot if it gets knocked...
-
No actual rock touched for me this week, instead a few sessions down the depot and attempting to hack through the 400 emails I received whilst on holiday...what a dreadful week of weather!
M - rest.
T - Depot. Felt dreadul to begin with but eased into it and did a few purples. Flashed a yellow as well towards the end which was nice.
W - Rest
T - Depot. Much better. On the 50 board and started working Innes' oak replica. Whether it bears any resemblance to the oak, I do not know, but the moves are good.
F - Rest
S - Depot. Did the Oak replica in two which was a surprise. Quite psyched on it. Also fiddled around setting an extremely rough Bat Route bulge replica on the 50 but struggled to make it feasible. Might whistle up James to assist in this. Incidentally, Tim Palmer opined that were it off the deck, the bat route bulge would be 7a+. Opinions?
S - walk over Mam Tor. Grim weather. Had intended to get out on rock as the Hathersage forecast was ok but was a total mizzly washout.
Good indoor week, dreadful outdoor week! Well done to anyone who managed to get out on rock. Few indoor sessions this week and off to Wales for a christmas pissup with the old uni crew at the weekend. Some climbing might get done I suppose.
-
M: Rest
T: Max hangs up to +30kg
W: 55 board, ticked a couple more things I've been working for a few sessions. Psych is high for the board! Laps on the new 7a+ wood circuit (I have absolutely no endurance I've discovered once again!)
T: Rest
F: Intended to do max hangs, but my shoulder was feeling iffy so spent the evening foam rolling and stretching.
S: Proper limit session on the 55, not sure if I was any closer on anything despite the work. Was fun hypothesising some hard problems for Jack though. Finished with a few more circles.
S: Manchester Depot, new yellows so tried to see how many I could do in less than 3 goes, managed 5 with another 3 feeling close.
Psych is high, shame the weathers not playing ball at all!
-
Psych is high, shame the weathers not playing ball at all!
Amen...
-
STG
*climb once a week
*Do pullups
MTG
Find and get stuck into a project that is harder than anything I've done before. ideally near home, can be climbed alone, at night and is a proud line.
LTG
8c, 8B
Thu - Works with Liam. Checked out the Elite Area which was great because it was empty and we couldn't climb anything! Reminded me of what walls used to be like at walls when there was only around 20 boulders and you'd done all the ones you could and had to just keep trying the ones you couldn't.
Sun - Works again - a rare second visit in a week. Very short climb after Ellie had climbed - good to see her back in the game and enjoying it.
Tough week again. Tired and busy again. Didn't do my pull-ups for the second week running. This is bad because in theory they should be easy to fit in whenever. Both sessions very quick and squeezed in - this is probably self-inflicted - perhaps a "I'm always tired and busy" mentality is creeping in. Need to change this and commit time to having a good climb. Weather sucked which didn't help - warm and wet is this what climate change looks like?
On this note I made this during a quiet hour at work. Grit days per season spreadsheet (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1LwbtY8v9IqgSnZXwww3RhEALojlfEDIUFwUdxnt3Qcc/edit?usp=sharing). It's very crude but it basically takes data from metoffice on number of air frost days and number of days with no rain (<1mm) for NE England and combines those numbers to get a "chance of grit day" - based on rough assumption that air frost and no rain are the key ingredients to a good grit day. The seasons (spring, winter, autumn) are plotted separately which is confusing i think. If the trend is to be believed then the number of grit days per year is in decline.
-
Have a wad point for the spreadsheet James. Limestone is the future, eh?
First week with zero climbing this year for me. Psyche at an all time low. Haven’t been for a run and sacked off Percy Pud yesterday. But...new week and all that.
Not sure if I’ve made more of a job out of climbing than I needed to. I sort of saw the light that climbing is about more than fingerboarding, but feel helplessly overwhelmed by the amount of time it would take to practice skill elements. So have sort of let perfect be the enemy of good and abandoned fingerboarding, kettlebells, running...and then any form of climbing altogether.
I’ve got a plan for this week but I won’t tempt fate by spraying about it in advance.
-
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/5f/Gal%C3%A1pagos_giant_tortoise_%28Chelonoidis_nigra%29_in_water.jpg)
Stay strong, damp tortoise brethren. The rains will stop, our shells will dry, and we will scrittle off bald top outs once more.
I dressed in climbing clothes this morning thinking I'd nip to the Glen for a quick RBR go at lunch time. The rain is currently lashing against the window. FFS.
-
S - walk over Mam Tor. Grim weather. Had intended to get out on rock as the Hathersage forecast was ok but was a total mizzly washout.
Which forecast was that? The forecasts I saw were just as grim as the actual weather.
-
Rehab Diaries Week Fifteen
STG- Leading low 6s/ HVS & carrying normal loads to crags by end Sept 2019.
M-F On holiday in Berlin. This was an opportunity to have five days off actual rehab work and see what my leg is like if I don't work on it (I often limp a bit due to my hip being sore from extertions the previous day)- the flaw in this is that holidays organised by my other half involve marching around cities very quickly with periodic coffee shop stops but no rest days whatsoever. I also carried camera gear one day as we went to the zoo.
I also, against medical orders, ran along Spandau train station platform a bit which I think is the cause of my nerve-related weirdness getting worse :oops: They're settling down again I think but I won't be doing that again. Berlin, it turns out, is completely flat, so in some ways it was an easy week. Headline is that I didn't limp at all and my leg felt strong (if tired) by the end of it. My back complained on the carrying days but it is steadily getting better.
Interestingly it was perfect grit conditions, -1 to 3oC and bone dry every day in Berlin. Shame that there's no rock within 100 miles of there!
S- Foundry Autobelays. Onsighted a steep juggy 6a to warm up then did a cruxy 6b thrid go. My solution to the crux of this was to use a toe-hook to stabilise myself as I reached through- might not sound like much but an exampleof the sort of moves I couldn't picture myself ever again as I lay in hospital with my pelvis in two pieces. Lots more moves like that on the other routes I "bouldered on a rope" on for the rest of the session, all of which were 6c-7a+. Felt like I did a lot of crimping, which is cool as I want to use my new improvement-focused mindset to address my longstanding finger strength issues. Feels like I have a new set of fingers after a five month break so no excuses!
Also found a wobble board thing in the Foundry training area so I can do my rehab balancing stuff inbetween routes from now on. ;D
S- Gym AM> Leg press machines occupied when I arrived so did the abductor/ adductor ones first. Found out that this has a negative effect on my leg press strength so won't be doing that again. Gains on the hip machines though (25kg-45kg in a few weeks) which is good. Played around with various upper-body machines afterwards. :weakbench:
Walk around Baslow Edge in the afternoon. Fucking hell it's rained a lot in the Peak. Hard work towards the end with a sore hip!
Good week. Really needed a holiday. I feel like I've got my general fitness back to normal now- this weekend was the first one when I've not been falling asleep watching football in the evenings since doomsday. :dance1: Thinking of getting Foundry membership for Jan- March.
-
JT: remember that last sentence.
Everyone else: keep at it. It’s December, it has certainly got milder but, fundamentally, it been a bit shit for rock climbing since at least 1978.
STG: strength work (bouldering / fingerboard) 2-3 times a week. Manage aches and pains. Do a Kettle movement drill each time I go to the wall.
MTG: a proper 7b+ this winter.
LTG: a classic Pembroke E5; 5.13 at 60
M - Fingerboard: brief max. hangs.
T - Blocfit: brief get-to-know you session. Lapped the hand crack 8)
W - Shoulder sore, gentle shoulder stretches.
T - Shoulder stretches, shoulder strength (side planks; Is, reverse flys, horizontal pull-ups). Shoulder stretches
F - Blocfit. Very brief session of easy bouldering on the 20 degree board. Shoulder stretches.
S - Shoulder stretches, hip and knee strength (squats, bridges).
S - Shoulder strength.
Busy week with family and work. Long term life plans coming into focus and shoulder tolerating a little more activity: green shoots of recovery?
Last week slab_happy described blocfit thus:
It's tiny and scrappy and can only be found by venturing down an underground tunnel filled with garages; I felt like I probably lost years off my life from the petrol fumes. What you see in the photo on the website is most of the wall -- there's a balcony which (IIRC) has TRX stuff, and a weights area under it, and that's it. I liked it a lot!
The Board de Lune is 40 degrees so don't know if that's a dealbreaker for you. It's all very short so would be ankle-friendly.
It would be absolute rubbish if you want to boulder and have lots of nice new problems each time, but would be very good for doing focused training because it doesn't give you any other options.
Forgot to say, nice atmosphere -- based on one visit, it seemed friendly but non-intrusive and not snobby. Obvious assumption that if you're there you're there to train and have your own plans for what you want to do, but no sense that anyone who's not doing 1-5-9 is out of place.
That’s an excellent summary. I thought it was great and totally what I’m after. I imagine it will appeal to more than a few Power Clubbers. They also had a crack machine (a little expando.at present) and King Tubby on the Hi Fi, both of which made an old man very happy!
Plan: more of the same.
-
That BlocFit place looks incredible. I'd be all over that like a rash if they opened one in Leeds.
-
Goals: board projects I couldn't touch last year.
M: v.short core session.
T:
W: Passed viva.
T: Indoors. After a long time I finally feel alright trying hard on the 50. Topped "Palmer's Pinch" from two moves in, for the first time. Found out I can now do most of the moves on Pug Life and Malc's Warm Up, which was very satisfying. Perhaps I have improved a little this year.
F:
S: Wet peak with Coops. Fondled the holds on Keen Roof. They are huge.
S: 45 board with Coops and co. Probably trying a little too hard. Good session.
Right trap muscle is currently a mess. Struggled to sleep last night because of it.
-
virgin post here.
Having a newborn at home makes touching rock nowadays near impossible. Working through a lattice plan mostly climbing at home on a moonboard (2016 setup), hangboard, rings and a 15 degree board. Doing lower body stretching 3-4 times/week as well.
M: Rest
T: Warmed up on the 15 degree board. Hangboard: 80% max weight on a small Tension campus rung (19mm) 10 sec x 8 reps w/ 1.5 mins rest in-between reps. Board Pauses where feet are cut after each move. Done on 4 problems, did 3 reps on each problem. Did workout on the moonboard with the following problems: Duplicate Test, Klingon Easy, Bitter and An Easy Problem. This was my first time doing this workout. Super hard for me.
W: Rest
Th: Rest
F: Warmed up on the 15 degree board. Bouldered on the MB trying to complete or repeat a number of hard problems for me. Did the following problems: Temporary Badness (repeated x1, got to the last move on 2 other tries), Mirror Wall (didn't send but got to the final hold for the first time), L'Ho Duro Duro (softest of soft benchmark V7s), 2 Hours of Purity Ring (didn't send but got to the final hold), Di Rienzo. Cooled down w/ some aero cap on the 15 degree board.
Sa: Rest
Su: Warmed up on the 15 degree board. An Cap workout using 6 MB problems (Wuthering Heights, Cakewalk, Pull Yaself Up! Yay, Warm Up No 8, Pledge to Hedge, Bitter). Core workout
-
Not sure if I’ve made more of a job out of climbing than I needed to. I sort of saw the light that climbing is about more than fingerboarding, but feel helplessly overwhelmed by the amount of time it would take to practice skill elements. So have sort of let perfect be the enemy of good and abandoned fingerboarding, kettlebells, running...and then any form of climbing altogether.
Interesting that you find training skill overwhelming, guess partly because it's new and you haven't yet got your head round it. I think it's great. Just keep going.
My advice, for what it's worth. Just climb as you normally would at the wall but think about your footwork, body position, etc - the kettle book drills are ideal. The best thing is it's not like strength which you lose if you don't train it. It just stays in there, like riding a bike. And if you don't have time to train it, you still magically get better because your subconscious sorts out the good stuff from the bad and throws the bad away, see well known anecdote about Jerry becoming world champ 3 months after coming back from 2 years off. Even with one wall session a week you can make good progress.
The biggest problem I see is the immeasurability of progress. You just have to trust in the process.
I'd say you could continue with the fingerboard and kettles if you really want to. It's more about a shift in mindset than actions.
-
Plus it's a lot more fun than hanging off your fingertips for hours on end. Due to life / work demands I usually only make it down the wall once a week, and it still surprises me after being in the climbing game on and off for nearly 30 years (have I reached 10,000 hours?) how i can still make improvements in technique on problems I've been trying for weeks.
This is what i play the game for, getting to the top of boulder problems (either indoors or out) that are hard for me, so I'll be doing problems as much as i can when i can, and fill in the rest of the training (core, running, kettlebells, the occasional fingerboard session) over lunchtimes at work, and in the evenings in front of the telly or iPad once the kids are in bed.
-
Tim Palmer opined that were it off the deck, the bat route bulge would be 7a+. Opinions?
Thinks that's Tim being to strong for his own good. General consensus seems to be around 7b/7b+, although it's very specific and learnt so it goes from feeling impossible to being able to lap it.
-
STG - hang off bar/FB unaided without discomfort
MTG - 7C by May (had been hoping to do one this year to equal sport, trad & boulder PBs in year but a 12 month period will have to do)
LTG - go one better than current PBs
M - concert in the evening which involved a bit of dancing hopping from leg to leg. Woken about 4am by a dull ache in right calf
T - could barely walk first thing but loosened up
physio, shoulder deemed ok to start easy climbing again.
I'd initially gone to this guy about my hips, just turned out this shoulder issue had arisen at the same time so that needed addressing first. Anyway, third visit and he checked out my hips. I know I have knots on the Glute Med, nothing serious just a pain having to massage & stretch them 3/4 times per week to keep back issues at bay. I was wondering if accupuncture might work. He had a poke around and confirmed what I'd told him so did another Ultrasound which found no tears but the same wear as in my shoulder. Didn't recommend accupuncture but gave me a new stretch to do (which does feel quite effective). Ran out of time to scan the other hip but gave me all the same doom and gloom warnings he had for the shoulder, but he'd actually scanned my good better hip so I'm actually thinking that this wear is just normal for 50 somethings who have had an active lifestyle.
Sleep disturbed by calf again.
W lengthy massage and stretch session
core
slept better, no calf pain
th - 40ish minutes of LI AeroCap shuffling at the mini works. Shoulder ok
F - Termpted to go out with Dolly and Plattsy,even loaded the pad and packed a bag but shoulder complained trying to hang off a bar even standing in a hefty resistance band so decided perhaps better not
Modifed fingerboard LI AeroCap but using my campus board instead, left hand a rung higher than right 2x10x1 min
Core
unstructured and imcomplete leg workout
S rest
S - 2x10 mins LI AeroCap on campus board jugs.
Core
Feeling a bit of a wreck at the moment, thinking I should do less training and more climbing in the future.
-
What this thread needs now is an update from Shark on his progress with the Oak.
-
Tim Palmer opined that were it off the deck, the bat route bulge would be 7a+. Opinions?
He's probably just being nice and he actually thinks it's more like 6C
-
Tim Palmer opined that were it off the deck, the bat route bulge would be 7a+. Opinions?
He's probably just being nice and he actually thinks it's more like 6C
To clarify i think that is pretty damn hard after doing the preceding route, hence why i haven't climbed the route!
-
11.3-6 Average 158.8 (0.8lbs up on last week)
M.
T. AM. Tor. Thick mist on drive there. Thought I’d arranged to meet Nick but we’d got our wires crossed. Joined by Ethan, Holly, Ben, Ben, Ray and Buster. Warmed up and did THFML x2 and worked a bit on kick move. Go1 straight thru start to kneebar and fell off on kick Go 2 As Go1 but lost tension coming out of kneebar Go 3 From kneebar straight thru into THFML and pumped out 10sec rest then did THFML Go 4 3 attempts from kneebar failing and flailing on the kick move.
Eve Fingerboard Max hangs
W.
T. Went to Tor but it had condensed out. Back to Sheffield and the Foundry. Did a campus session. Joined by Steve. Marginally worse session than previous Friday even though I had rested the day before. Went on Wave after. Gus there. Reworked green black spots left of centre. Moves felt ok but fingers gave out when tried to do it so called it. Burned out worryingly quickly. Two rest days needed methinks. Maybe more
F.
S.
S.
With Nick’s prompting decided on Saturday to take 10 days off – possibly more. This feels like a big step. The longest break I’ve had all year was 5 days off at the end of June after I had two teeth extracted. Other than that my longest rests have been 3 days (x4).
Apart from the physical side I’ve taken a bit of mental battering doing badly on the Oak in the Autumn and my strategy of juggling several other secondary projects in the lead up to it (Bens Roof, Anger Management, Roof Warrior, Moffatrocity, Soul Crusher) backfired badly as I ended up in succeeding on none of them. Hopefully taking some time out should help regain some perspective and positivity.
I’ve started to put together ideas for a winter training plan.
-
virgin post here.
Having a newborn at home makes touching rock nowadays near impossible.
Congratulations and :icon_welcome:
-
With Nick’s prompting decided on Saturday to take 10 days off – possibly more. This feels like a big step. The longest break I’ve had all year was 5 days off at the end of June after I had two teeth extracted. Other than that my longest rests have been 3 days (x4).
Apart from the physical side I’ve taken a bit of mental battering doing badly on the Oak in the Autumn and my strategy of juggling several other secondary projects in the lead up to it (Bens Roof, Anger Management, Roof Warrior, Moffatrocity, Soul Crusher) backfired badly as I ended up in succeeding on none of them. Hopefully taking some time out should help regain some perspective and positivity.
This sounds like a good plan.
Historically Simon, have your notable successes on problems or routes come from the above approach or from single minded sieging? I've always thought that given none of us are full time 'athletes,' given we're juggling work and life as well as climbing, the most efficient way to get something done should logically be specifically training for that and only that. Thats certainly what has worked for me thus far, but I am yet to burn out on something (it'll happen!) so understand how one could end up thinking the opposite. Interested to hear how people have managed this in general actually.
-
This sounds like a good plan.
Historically Simon, have your notable successes on problems or routes come from the above approach or from single minded sieging? I've always thought that given none of us are full time 'athletes,' given we're juggling work and life as well as climbing, the most efficient way to get something done should logically be specifically training for that and only that. Thats certainly what has worked for me thus far, but I am yet to burn out on something (it'll happen!) so understand how one could end up thinking the opposite. Interested to hear how people have managed this in general actually.
Single minded seiging has always been my thing. Mixing it up this year with several projects was an attempt to introduce a bit more variety and volume. Also I am to all intents a full time athlete now since resigning from the BMC - my wife describes me as a 'professional climber who doesn't get paid'. My business activities are organised deliberately to be minimally time-consuming and living in Sheffield means it is easy to get out. I'd love to just go outside climbing all the time but I recognise that wont get me up the Oak.
I had 24 sessions on the Oak this year. Next Spring if I don't get through past the horn in 3 or 4 sessions then my winter training objective will have failed. I'm aiming that the indoor training will be 100% geared towards the Oak. In fact I'd be quite keen at some stage to have a session with you on the Oak replica at the Depot you mentioned and your welcome to have a go at my replica problems on my home board provided you don't leave your draws in them.
-
Single minded seiging has always been my thing. Mixing it up this year with several projects was an attempt to introduce a bit more variety and volume. Also I am to all intents a full time athlete now since resigning from the BMC - my wife describes me as a 'professional climber who doesn't get paid'. My business activities are organised deliberately to be minimally time-consuming and living in Sheffield means it is easy to get out. I'd love to just go outside climbing all the time but I recognise that wont get me up the Oak.
I had 24 sessions on the Oak this year. Next Spring if I don't get through past the horn in 3 or 4 sessions then my winter training objective will have failed. I'm aiming that the indoor training will be 100% geared towards the Oak. In fact I'd be quite keen at some stage to have a session with you on the Oak replica at the Depot you mentioned and your welcome to have a go at my replica problems on my home board provided you don't leave your draws in them.
Makes sense. Maybe move to Airton?
I've noticed your window for trying it is quite short; ie spring and autumn. Is that because the Oak takes a bit longer to dry than other routes and/or that it becomes unclimbable in warmer conditions? I've made big gains in the past trying things in considerably less than mint conditions which has perhaps meant I've made quicker progress when they improved. Equally those two things may not be linked. Also, does the section to the horn actually get wet? Is it plausible to keep your eye in on it on a sunny day over the winter to make any necessary adjustments?
Keen for a session at the Depot for sure. I'm normally there a few nights a week. I have never been on the route in the flesh so would be interesting to see how/if it corresponds to any actual sequences. When I next find myself down your way I'd happily fall off the replicas for a while also. No promises re the draws though!
-
I'd be quite keen at some stage to have a session with you on the Oak replica at the Depot you mentioned and your welcome to have a go at my replica problems on my home board provided you don't leave your draws in them.
You're more than welcome to make the effort to go and try Austrian Mock but I don't think it's the best representation of it being crimps on a 50 degree board. But then again I haven't done either this or the real think so what do I know.
-
I've noticed your window for trying it is quite short; ie spring and autumn. Is that because the Oak takes a bit longer to dry than other routes and/or that it becomes unclimbable in warmer conditions?
Unclimbable for me certainly - temperature conditions make a massive difference and the route is at my absolute limit. I go on it as soon as it is dry in the Spring and carry on till either my performance has gone downhill or it gets too warm to hope to be able to redpoint
I've made big gains in the past trying things in considerably less than mint conditions which has perhaps meant I've made quicker progress when they improved. Equally those two things may not be linked. Also, does the section to the horn actually get wet? Is it plausible to keep your eye in on it on a sunny day over the winter to make any necessary adjustments?
Repeatedly turning up hasnt worked for over 10 years. I think my time is best spent training or staying local but not averse to a benchmark session in the winter though its academic as it is one of the last to dry as the undercut by the third bolt is particularly prone to seepage.
-
M- Nowt
T - Lunch Trail Run - 6.5 km
W - wall session. Got there late after several "errands", but had an OK session, finished off with a light campus session and new circuits, actually quite well set for once. Managed sections of 3 probs i was working, but no links.
T - Lunchtime yoga - hard.
F - meant to run, but work said no.
S - kids at panto with drama group, so escaped for a few hours, had great session at wall, ticked the three problems i intended doing in first 45 mins, so at a bit of a loss for rest of session, mostly campusboard and circuits, as kids group invaded bouldering area. Actually feel quite strong. Curry and beer in evening.
S - ropey start, helped out at school Xmas Fair, struggled through until evening then gorged on pizza.
-
You're more than welcome to make the effort to go and try Austrian Mock but I don't think it's the best representation of it being crimps on a 50 degree board. But then again I haven't done either this or the real think so what do I know.
To be fair, the move that I can see as being halfway representative is that cross through with the left hand to an undercut. The rest of it, god knows.
-
Bradders told me it was 8A. It's certainly got a fair few moves on it though.
-
Hold on, hold on, hold on. What I said was it's as physically hard as any 8A I've done outside. It's certainly not anywhere near to being in the same league as other board '8As' like Generally Wrong or Malc's Warm Up.
You're more than welcome to make the effort to go and try Austrian Mock but I don't think it's the best representation of it being crimps on a 50 degree board. But then again I haven't done either this or the real think so what do I know.
To be fair, the move that I can see as being halfway representative is that cross through with the left hand to an undercut. The rest of it, god knows.
And here's me, Mock pretty much totally wired nowadays, thinking I'll just rock up to Malham next season and casually bosh out the Oak on my first visit, maybe flash, and you're telling me it's nothing like it?! That move into the undercling isn't even hard!! What have I been doing with my life?! :lol: :lol:
-
It's barely board 7B
-
It's barely board 7B
Exactly.
-
Power Club
Mon - fingers, BM 10x4. Strong but tired, +4 kg. Weights, rest pause. Fantastic.
Tue - rest.
Wed - weights: good mornings; power cleans 70% 6x8; pull ups x5 in between sets, warm up included (14 sets, 12th set at 10 reps). Hackey pulls 10x2. Fantastic.
Thu - overhead carry 1', shoulder carry 1', rest 1', x10. EMOM pull ups 5x10. Lock off 30". Abs hollow position 30"x4.
Fri - rest.
Sat - trap bar deadlift, warm up then singles up to 2xbw. Then a brilliant EMOM set, 80% 3x10. Brutal.
Sun - bicep curl x10, lateral raises x6, tricep planks x10, abs x20, all x6. Overhead walk 2". One sided carry and lateral bends.
-
So it’s not an Oak replica - it just happens to have an Oak like move
-
Thanks James, Chris. Appreciate the pointers.
-
So it’s not an Oak replica - it just happens to have an Oak like move
It’s on a 50 degree board with fixed feet, so no. It’s probably of a decent difficulty level to be aiming for if the oak is a long 7B but i wouldn’t drive to Leeds for it!
-
Shows what I know!
-
I'm going to structure my week a little differently....
Positives
M: Went to Craig Y Longridge - got spanked by Big Marine even more so than usual - but did Fertile Delta lots of times - apart from the final move(s) - the ones after the luuuurvely sidepull. So, I didnt do it etc..
"the ones after the luuuurvely sidepull"... isn't there just one move after the sikka'd sidepull? Get the sikka'd hold as a sidepull (or a gaston if you are an eliminate loving traditionalist)... smear-up and hit the top?
Yup - one or two ish... get sidepull - paste feet into holds (they're better than smears) and lank LH up to crimpy edge up left (positive - below and left of finishing jug) and launch to victory. Kept dropping that darned edge. Its good enough - get a good 1 1/2 pads on it and its positive - I was just gassed out I think..
-
So it’s not an Oak replica - it just happens to have an Oak like move
Out of interest Simon. What are your best links on the Oak and when did they occur?
I remember seeing you do quite a good one a few years ago from not many moves in to the top. You were so casual that when I started shouting encouragement you were able to reply "this is not a redpoint!".
-
Last week slab_happy described blocfit thus:
It's tiny and scrappy and can only be found by venturing down an underground tunnel filled with garages; I felt like I probably lost years off my life from the petrol fumes. What you see in the photo on the website is most of the wall -- there's a balcony which (IIRC) has TRX stuff, and a weights area under it, and that's it. I liked it a lot!
The Board de Lune is 40 degrees so don't know if that's a dealbreaker for you. It's all very short so would be ankle-friendly.
It would be absolute rubbish if you want to boulder and have lots of nice new problems each time, but would be very good for doing focused training because it doesn't give you any other options.
Forgot to say, nice atmosphere -- based on one visit, it seemed friendly but non-intrusive and not snobby. Obvious assumption that if you're there you're there to train and have your own plans for what you want to do, but no sense that anyone who's not doing 1-5-9 is out of place.
That’s an excellent summary. I thought it was great and totally what I’m after. I imagine it will appeal to more than a few Power Clubbers. They also had a crack machine (a little expando.at present) and King Tubby on the Hi Fi, both of which made an old man very happy!
Plan: more of the same.
They have a crack machine now? That's new since I was last there; can't wait to get back there and check it out. Anyway, I'm delighted it lived up to the billing!
-
So it’s not an Oak replica - it just happens to have an Oak like move
Out of interest Simon. What are your best links on the Oak and when did they occur?
I remember seeing you do quite a good one a few years ago from not many moves in to the top. You were so casual that when I started shouting encouragement you were able to reply "this is not a redpoint!".
You're lucky he didn't call you a See You Next Tuesday!
-
STG: train power / fingers once a week, no midweek boozing
LTG: more font 7s
M: Big Depot in evening. Autobelay warm-ups, then punter campus session. Felt good so tried some stuff on the smallest rungs and to my surprise managed a 1-3 (and match) on both arms. Then nearly finished off the anti-style V5 I'd been trying for a few sessions, dropping the last (and actually about 5a) move. Came away feeling psyched, like the effort I'm putting in is going somewhere.
T: Nowt
W: Sheffield for session with Peak Physio Tim, then a couple of hours pottering at The Works. Total opposite to Monday, climbed like crap, no power, not at the races at all. Tried stopping and resting . regrouping but nothing worked. Left feeling pissed off.
T: Nowt. Party in Leeds evening at my mate's bar to celebrate its 10th anniversary. Free bar all night. Messy.
F: Dying of hangover.
S: Took Una to Big Depotbut feeling a bit lacklustre. Started well (flashed a 6c on autobelay) but then started feeling really weird. Hot, shaky, bit nauseous. Sacked it and went home.
S: Nowt.
Out of a high and back into a low. Hey ho.
-
T: Free bar all night. Messy.
F: Dying of hangover.
S: started feeling really weird. Hot, shaky, bit nauseous.
:-\
Sounds like common or garden middle-age to me...
-
Welcome to the 2 day hangover. Definitely a middle age thing.
-
Out of interest Simon. What are your best links on the Oak and when did they occur?
I remember seeing you do quite a good one a few years ago from not many moves in to the top. You were so casual that when I started shouting encouragement you were able to reply "this is not a redpoint!".
Hi James - yes I think that was one of the times I went from the second bolt (which is 4 moves in) to the top. I'd have to check but I think I did that link for the first time in 2015 and then a couple of times since. The Autumn of 2015 was my best season on it when I managed to get through the horn move 3x in a session and got my all-time highpoint which is in the video below:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=tc0rBjvYknQ
-
I still get tense watching that video Simon
-
Have any questions been raised yet about having the 3rd bolt pre-clipped?
:worms:
From this armchair, it doesn't look like you were fighting to stay on there. It looks like you initiate the move and then just give up. Considering you have cruised it from the 2nd bolt at about shoulder height, I'm absolutely convinced that this is as much a mental battle as a physical one. A key element of this winter's training should be to mentally prepare yourself to clip the chains in the spring and to really believe in that.
I really hope I don't end up like this with Red Baron Roof. I actually had a dream last night that dunnyg did it in a session and I woke up feeling disgusted with myself.
-
I still get tense watching that video Simon
;D How good would it have been to put it all behind me back then. I could have spent the last 3 years failing on Bat Route instead...
-
Have any questions been raised yet about having the 3rd bolt pre-clipped?
Probably about half the ascents have that bolt pre-clipped. Some have challenged it being pre-clipped - from memory Lucy Creamer, Mick Lovatt and Mike Owen. Mina and Maddy didnt pre-clip it. Obviously I need everything going for me.
Before I started on it Steve Dunning moved the belay which made grabbing it more of a temptation (El Mocho!). I put the extra bolt in near the top to take out the runout and also discovered an unobvious but bomber kneebar to clip the chain.
-
If I do it before you, given i cant drag myself up 7A at the moment, you should go back to trad climbing. Proper tempting to get strong to burn you off on it now...
-
Welcome to the 2 day hangover. Definitely a middle age thing.
Yeah - I've been experiencing them for a while but this one takes the biscuit. We've got 2 poorly kids right now so I'm not ruling out a hangover / fighting off a virus double.
Doesn't explain Wednesday's poor performance though, but having had this the last few time I think (cover your ears Sheffield types) I just don't get on with The Works any more. Can't quite put my finger on why but never seem to climb well there.
-
From this armchair, it doesn't look like you were fighting to stay on there. It looks like you initiate the move and then just give up.
Its amazing how often it looks like that on film I think. I have a video of me on Supercool over the summer falling off mid crux where I look like I basically jumped off, yet I remember the go and I was boxed out of my mind.
Great video that Simon. How many moves from salvation are you there? I think Tanya fell off around there over the summer from what I've been told.
-
Out of interest Simon. What are your best links on the Oak and when did they occur?
I remember seeing you do quite a good one a few years ago from not many moves in to the top. You were so casual that when I started shouting encouragement you were able to reply "this is not a redpoint!".
Hi James - yes I think that was one of the times I went from the second bolt (which is 4 moves in) to the top. I'd have to check but I think I did that link for the first time in 2015 and then a couple of times since. The Autumn of 2015 was my best season on it when I managed to get through the horn move 3x in a session and got my all-time highpoint which is in the video below:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=tc0rBjvYknQ
That sounds like what I remember. Do you have a video of that link from 4 moves in? Based on that performance you must know you can do it, right? At least physically you have it within you? What do you think has stopped you sending?
-
What do you think has stopped you sending?
Must. Not. Be tempted to answer... ;)
-
I love that every time somebody new gets interested in SharkSiege they have to ask these questions, forcing Simon to relieve over and over again just how close he has come to finishing it. And then comes the surgical dissection of Simon's weaknesses as a climber. It must be torture!
-
I reckon a new pair of 5:10 whites and a pint of beetroot juice and he'll see it off.
-
They have a crack machine now? That's new since I was last there; can't wait to get back there and check it out. Anyway, I'm delighted it lived up to the billing!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4812/45252237215_d6c408505a_c.jpg)
It’s not tall and it’s a bit flexy at present but the boss has promised to stiffen it up. Currently features tight hands, bomber hands and baggy hands. In an ideal world there would be a rattly fingers crack (~1”) too but I’m not complaining. I love how they surely know it won’t get much use but built it anyway because a serious training facility should have one.
-
Great video that Simon. How many moves from salvation are you there? I think Tanya fell off around there over the summer from what I've been told.
From that position I just needed to connect with the foothold I was lifting my leg up to then stretch out left to a jug to 7a+ ground
-
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4812/45252237215_d6c408505a_c.jpg)
The London climbing dress code seems somewhat more formal than Yorkshire!
-
Do you have a video of that link from 4 moves in? Based on that performance you must know you can do it, right? At least physically you have it within you? What do you think has stopped you sending?
No - I don't have a video of that link.
In terms of what stopped me this Autumn I can only conclude that I had come into it a bit jaded both physically from not having sufficient breaks and mentally from not having any confidence boosting ticks leading up to it although overall I think I am generally stronger than I ever have been this year and had a good level of capacity but probably overcooked it as a consequence. The isolated session I had in the summer was really promising but somehow I lost some power and endurance by the time the autumn season came round.
-
I know I might have worn this drum out but :agree:
-
Clam fibster
-
So a bunch of three move specialists offering advice about something twenty plus moves long, might have got it wrong.
Well I never ;D
-
Thanks for the photo!
In an ideal world there would be a rattly fingers crack (~1”) too but I’m not complaining. I love how they surely know it won’t get much use but built it anyway because a serious training facility should have one.
You never know -- the Wideboyz' touring Crack School seems to sell out, and the crack climbing class at the Women's Climbing Symposium was enthusiastically attended.
Currently features tight hands, bomber hands and baggy hands. In an ideal world there would be a rattly fingers crack (~1”) too but I’m not complaining.
There's clearly room for growth, though! Maybe if I handcuff myself to it over Christmas they'll build me a Hastonator.
-
Have any questions been raised yet about having the 3rd bolt pre-clipped?
:worms:
Is it the rule that you gain one extra pre-clipped bolt per decade of siege?
-
Edit
Not getting involved again!
-
Maybe you're getting shorter? age and all that ;)
-
There was a lot of other factors that year. On the 17th April I had what I described as my best session ever on the Oak getting through the throw move twice and was looking forward to improving on that. Unfortunately two days later I set my hand on fire necessitating 15 days off and an assumption that Id blown the Oak. It was another 8 days before I got back on rock and it took 3 sessions to redpoint Sardine which had been a warmup route.
The layoff seemed to sort out a longstanding problem in my left shoulder and with hindsight I think was good for me physically even though it didnt feel like it at the time. Also psychologically it was good to consistently make gains from a very low base thereafter. Looking back at my diary I kept persisting at the Tor bouldering and trying Anger Management and doing quite a lot of fingerboarding as well for about 10 weeks before coming out to Squamish which I think gave me a good base. Obviously I did more variety with you trad climbing, sport climbing and bouldering and learning how to diet! When I got back I started going to Malham from the 15th August mainly so Tom could try Raindogs and over the next few weeks got below 11 stone for the first time and up on the top traverse for the first time getting the all time highpoint on 17th Sept.
In short I think I was already climbing well in the Spring campaign and then the layoff in April actually did me good and the subsequent Tor sessions and interestingly regular fingerboarding and then Squamish all built a great base. I went back to Malham without expectations and with the weight loss was able to make a step change improvement that generated its own motivational momentum.
Since then psychologically I've been on the backfoot trying and failing to match what I've already done even though I'm stronger now. I did a lot of volume this year to build up a good base / more capacity (not just bouldering!) but seem to have overcooked it by the time autumn came round. Assuming I dont get the Oak in the Spring I think this time around I will take it as a lesson that a pre-Summer break will be a good thing before building a base again.
In summary regarding strategy I have attempted to build both bouldering strength and endurance/capacity. The Oak is a bouldery route so an emphasis on the former still makes sense to make the moves easier which is effectively a type of endurance training too. Maybe I should incorporate a bit more endurance trading this winter but I still think bouldering/strength training is the priority. I do intend to switch from max hangs to endurance hangs each month too.
-
Set more limbs on fire, obviously :ang:
-
Set more limbs on fire, obviously :ang:
It might come to that
-
It's the phrase "Unfortunately two days later I set my hand on fire" that really puts the comic element into that story. :lol:
You can do it Simon!
-
Set more limbs on fire, obviously :ang:
It might come to that
Climb of the Flaming Arseholes? Definitely get you moving a bit quicker.