UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: lagerstarfish on November 25, 2018, 07:24:33 pm
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joints hurting and R elbow a bit Fonty from doing too much last week
M - R elbow pain meant no lifting, but pushing felt not too bad - 6 and 8kg dumbell complex to warm up carefully - careful dips, starting at one rep and incresing by one per rep until I did a good style 10 reps three times - gentle overhead press - cardio
Tu - 2 hrs indoor snowboarding at Castleford - just what I needed - plenty of tight radius, high frequency turns with no lift queues
W - balloon rockets at Beavers - woosh
Th - more dips and managed to do pullups - again, built one rep at a time - didn't do more than 8 pullups at a time due to elbow - kettlebell lunges in a walking style: oooh these are fun and the second set was a bit of a shock; only had 12kg in each hand, but my little legs and buttocks took some hammering
F - my legs hurt
Sa - lost skin doing guitar riffs with the lad - van camping with the 2 youngest kids - bit of a walk
Su - couple of hours at the works taking it easy - for once managed to stop myself doing anything harder than 5 - saw a few folks from back in the day
edit - forgot my stats
not been under 15st for a few months - low fat % for me - I'm pretty chuffed with these numbers (obviously, I'd "like" to be 3 st lighter, but am a greedy cunt)
(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/Ds319fXW0AAbBeQ.jpg)
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11.2-5 average 158.0lbs no change on last week
M. Experimenting with new grip to train - I'm calling it the Masonic handgrip (straight hands with front3 at 90 degrees and little finger dragging). Really struggled to keep the forefinger at 90degrees and it kept going into a drag and turning into a chisel as well as not finding it hard to keep my hand from bending as if dragging. Aim was to get a feel of max at 12secs on 20mm edge. Managed +7kg but not in good form. Convinced myself I couldn’t do it due to differential finger length but will re-test
T. Intended to go on grit but forecast took a turn for the worse. Met Nick at Tor. Continuous rain, cold (3 degrees) but fortunately no on-crag wind. Rock was dry and on mint condition. Intended to get stuck into Rattle and Hump start but got sucked into trying Bens Roof with a pair from Loughborough. Glad I did as a key piece of micro beta emerged (moving knee rightwards when coming out of kneebar). Managed to do move this way from kneebar and nearly got to finish. At end after one abortive pull on did start into kneebar. Felt sorry for a German pair there who were from the Frankenjura who'd come over for a week to climb on the grit.
W.
T Morning. Tor with Nick. All day fog. 3 degrees but felt much colder. Played around with variations on new micro beta. Definitely the way to release the kneebar but have to still remember to pull hard on both arms and toe hard with right foot as well. Tried from start and got thru to kneebar virtually straight away but kneebar was set wrong coming out of it. Tried a couple more times from the start but failed on the swivel thru to the kneebar.
F. Morning. Foundry. Campus session followed by an hour on Wave working both the green and black spots on steep bit. Intended to do more when got home but felt tired so had a nap instead
Eve Meal and much wine with Seb, JoeP and GraemeA.
S. Morning. Fingerboard. Had messaged Dave for advice on the grip and he was very helpful so experimented again mainly feet on. Grip feels unnatural for me so takes quite a mental effort not to cheat. Not a full session. Managed to do a 12sec bodyweight hang on a 22mm edge with reasonable form
S. Was keen to see if Hot Toddy was climbable but the clag didn't lift in Sheffield so spent the day at home instead strength training. Tried and tweaked new burly Oak moves on board then completed a Masonic fingerboard session (bodyweight only, 22mm edge). Then a smorgasbord of offset pullups and weighted pull ups, weighted undercutting, preacher curls, flys and a deadlift
Dave Mason fingerboard vid for ref
www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKwkKaKluuk
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M. Experimenting with new grip to train - I'm calling it the Masonic handgrip (straight hands with front3 at 90 degrees and little finger dragging).
That's my default half-crimp grip, sure it is lots of folk with a short little finger.
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Thanks Lagers.
Weather frustrating efforts to get out this week.. as for many people I suspect...
Mon: Depot (first go on new purple set - some great problems there)
Weds: Depot (chalked off a couple more purples)
Friday: Risked the lancs quarries and ended up very unmotivated at Wilton 2 (projects are in 3 but people were shooting there). All that was dry - pleasant and workable was the 7B sit to the arete Purple Feel. I've been no-where on this before - not even pulling off the deck (robin can atest to this) but managed to do the first couple of moves to the sitter and pretty much figured out what I needed to do - then the starting smear started not to work for me, meaning conditions got worse or (mor likely) I was tired and not pulling properly (core etc..). Did the stand a couple of times for good measure
https://youtu.be/zJlwnmvP50A
Sa: Took the toddler and his cousin to Rock Tots at the Depot. Then managed to get an hour/90 min afterwards. Did another one or two of the purples. Only impossible feeling ones left..
Su: Rest.
So, I've had lots of twinges on my L elbow over the last 4-5 years - thought it was golfers/tennis (Forget which) but saw a clip about antagonistics..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eiOp3hxJVkw
And it seems this is exactly what/where was hurting. So started doing near daily wrist curls (wrist bent back) and after session at the depot holding ball ends of kettle bends open handed (as suggested in the vid above) and it (a) certainly pushes the button when I try it and (b) feels miles better the next day!
I've also been working most days on stretching my hamstrings - they are crazy tight from years of cycling as a yoof - and I think is key to me not being able to use my legs well in many situations.. doing some active stretches, its weird, my right leg can swing a good 15-20 cm higher than my left... and now I have an aching glute/hamstring bit :D ANyway, project 'touch my toes' is a bit of a game to see if I can actually gain some flexibility in my latter middle age :)
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I've also been working most days on stretching my hamstrings - they are crazy tight from years of cycling as a yoof - and I think is key to me not being able to use my legs well in many situations.. doing some active stretches, its weird, my right leg can swing a good 15-20 cm higher than my left... and now I have an aching glute/hamstring bit :D ANyway, project 'touch my toes' is a bit of a game to see if I can actually gain some flexibility in my latter middle age :)
might I suggest kettlebell lunges and light deadlifts with plenty of crouch? I've had some right problems over the years with stiff hamstrings and associated lower back problems and moving weight through a good range has always helped
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Friday: Risked the lancs quarries and ended up very unmotivated at Wilton 2 (projects are in 3 but people were shooting there). All that was dry - pleasant and workable was the 7B sit to the arete Purple Feel.
Perhaps no help to you now, but if you are free early this week, CyL is almost entirely dry; I was there both Sat and Sun. The top of Big Marine and the start and pocket of Fertile Delta SDS were entirely dry. Unfortunately, this morning I found probably the only wet hold at the crag when I greased off a warm-up traverse and landed on my cocyx. For the rest of the day, the residents of the holiday homes were treated to a strangled scream everytime I had to bend-over or engage my core!
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M. Experimenting with new grip to train - I'm calling it the Masonic handgrip (straight hands with front3 at 90 degrees and little finger dragging).
That's my default half-crimp grip, sure it is lots of folk with a short little finger.
:agree:
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M. Experimenting with new grip to train - I'm calling it the Masonic handgrip (straight hands with front3 at 90 degrees and little finger dragging).
That's my default half-crimp grip, sure it is lots of folk with a short little finger.
:agree:
It resembles my "natural" open grip on largish holds, say, when I am dead-hanging an 18mm edge. To me, a half-crimp is what I use on smaller holds, say, 10mm edges - fingers more flexed (but not engaging the thumb).
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(obviously, I'd "like" to be 3 st lighter, but am a greedy cunt)
(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/Ds319fXW0AAbBeQ.jpg)
Haha, quote of the week. Solid use of the c word. Shark will be proud
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Friday: Risked the lancs quarries and ended up very unmotivated at Wilton 2 (projects are in 3 but people were shooting there). All that was dry - pleasant and workable was the 7B sit to the arete Purple Feel.
Perhaps no help to you now, but if you are free early this week, CyL is almost entirely dry; I was there both Sat and Sun. The top of Big Marine and the start and pocket of Fertile Delta SDS were entirely dry. Unfortunately, this morning I found probably the only wet hold at the crag when I greased off a warm-up traverse and landed on my cocyx. For the rest of the day, the residents of the holiday homes were treated to a strangled scream everytime I had to bend-over or engage my core!
Cheers Luke. I posted up on the CYL Facebook page before heading out on Friday but no takers - would have been a good option then I guess...
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Aye, it was cool, sunny, and breezy - the air was perhaps a little too damp for the "Bon-Con 1" siren to sound, but far better than I expected. I was surprised to have the crag to myself both days.
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It resembles my "natural" open grip on largish holds, say, when I am dead-hanging an 18mm edge. To me, a half-crimp is what I use on smaller holds, say, 10mm edges - fingers more flexed (but not engaging the thumb).
It’s interesting how much variation there is in fingerboarding, there’s very little change in my grip from small campus rung to 6mm micro.
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Cheers Lagers
66.2kg
M- nul
T- nul
W- nul
T- Bailed on going out, just couldn’t face dark cold drizzle..
Strength Asylum: DL 7 sets up to a slow but solid 210; changed foot rotation microbeta that may just have solved the overbalancing that’s plagued me for a year or so..
Stoke AW 3 hrs including 3 sets per side 4 to 1 campus dropdowns and some muscle-ups (secretly quite chuffed to have discovered how to do these as have pathetically failed to figure them out before but they’re fine with correct handgrip..)
F-nul
S-nul
S- Stoke AW: 1hr probs, 1hr moonboard, more muscle-ups, did some 1 arm shrugs not sure they do much?
Thassit
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Good spot but it’s not what I’d call a half crimp.
The word crimp means folding/compressing ie bearing down on the fingers and at 90degrees you are not flexed/bearing down.
Her ‘open crimp’ I’d call a ‘chisel’ and her ‘extension’ a ‘drag’.
My half crimp would be bearing down slightly and also with a bend at the large knuckle (MCP joint) allowing my thumb to press against the side of my forefinger.
I don’t recall ever having read anything by Eva saying that the MCP joint needed to be straight but Dave is strict about that.
Anyway it is different to what I have previously been doing which can only be good re variety and the fact I find it so difficult. Also if done strictly it eliminates friction and mechanical cheats from training the fingers so is much harder (for me) and I can stress the flexors at lower weights. Possibly it stresses the flexors more because it is the most directly strength related grip position - pinky excepted.
Given my preferred grips for training and climbing I wouldn’t be surprised if I have a disproportionately weak forefinger. I’ll measure them separately to check then review the relative gains next year
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M:
T: Arch. Short session as I had lots of work to do after. After the usual warm-up, I tried max hangs (two-handed) for the first time. BM2K low outside edges, half crimp. Didn't know how much weight to add so did 4kg to start then went up to +16kg in 4kg increments, did two sets at 16, another at 12 then moved on - didn't want to overdo it. Did weighted pull-ups after which was good up to a max of +52kg
W: Arch. Another short session as had to get back to work. Moonboard after warm-up. Worked on new BMs, 1 6A+, 4 6B, 1 6C, 3 6C+
T:
F-S: In Manchester for the weekend with the gf
A couple of months of drinking and eating lots have meant I've gained a bit of weight, intending to lean up a bit over the next month, by eating better and drinking less rather than tracking and restricting. Hopefully that combined with a phase of max-hangs will see some pre-Christmas gains!
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It resembles my "natural" open grip on largish holds, say, when I am dead-hanging an 18mm edge. To me, a half-crimp is what I use on smaller holds, say, 10mm edges - fingers more flexed (but not engaging the thumb).
It’s interesting how much variation there is in fingerboarding, there’s very little change in my grip from small campus rung to 6mm micro.
Depends on the hold profile for me, on anything with a well rounded front there's no difference, I make the same shape as Dave's video. But I have an upside down campus rung which has more of an edge and if I try to be greedy with the little finger it twists my wrist and MCP into something like the shape that Simon is thinking of as a half crimp.
Good spot but it’s not what I’d call a half crimp.
Some of Eva's terms might be losing something in translation buit surely that first one is what a majority of folk call a half crimp?
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Jesus, not even 10:30AM on Monday and Power Club has already reached the “debating fingerboard grip protocols” stage. ;D
Rehab Diaries Week Fourteen
STG- Leading HVS/ low 6s and carrying normal loads t’t crag by end Sept 2019.
M- Rest.
T- Gym. Made the bold move of using the stair-treadmill instead of the exercise bike after a little try of it last Sunday. Plan was to do 30 minutes of level 12 (90 stairs per minute) but ended up doing it in 10 minute sets due to it being hard- not so much on my leg, but in terms of cardio fitness :sick: . This is good as I want to get this back as well (I want everything back!) but I realised that as the levels on the stair-treadmill affect the speed rather than the resistance, it’s more of a combination of body weight excercise and cardio fitness builder than the bike and it’s also harder to translate the intervals that my physio prescribed to it. I think I’ll start alternating bike and stairs by week rather than swapping over.
W- Rest. Feeling it from the day before, particularly in my robot hip.
T- Rest. Mentally and physically exhausted after a demanding period at work. Luckily this is the start of 12 days off. :dance1:
F- Foundry autobelays. Went in the day- I expected this to be quiet, but while Shark appeared to have The Wave to himself, there were lots of people climbing routes and a huge group which 1/3rd of the Furnace was cordoned off for. I need to start being more organised and sociable and climbing indoor routes with a partner.
Did most of a 6b+ first go, then got slightly higher on two subsequent attempts. Thought I might do it in a session but that section of wall then became unavailable for the rest of the session (probably just as well as I‘d tweaked my finger a little on it) so I got on the green 7a in the middle of the wall. Made progress on this in about 5 goes but was only getting 50% of the way.
S- Gym. Leg machines. Progress on leg press and hip abduction/ adduction machines. After that I messed about using a pull-down machine one-armed. Turns out my left arm is a lot weaker than my right, which I guess must have been the case before my accident too? I could start using this machine to level it up to the strength on my other side in the way I’m doing with my leg on the leg press machine but it appears to be a perfect recipe for golfer’s elbow. :blink:
S- Travelling to Berlin. This involved carrying more than I’ve done since the accident and it felt fine! If loads are balanced evenly (I had one rucksack on my back and one on my front) and the ground isn’t too steep or uneven it seems like I can carry quite a bit now, which is great progress.
In Berlin ‘til Friday now. No plans for anything but walking about, which is good as I’ve felt pretty burnt-out this week.
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Jesus, not even 10:30AM on Monday and Power Club has already reached the “debating fingerboard grip protocols” stage. ;D
9:30 GMT ;) It's good to talk :)
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STG: no midweek boozing / train power or fingers once a week
MTG: 2 new Font 7a problems by my birthday (July 2019)
LTG: Font 7b (not that I'm myopically focusing on grades ;) )
M: Nowt, WFH day so no gym, entertained my 4 year old daughter and 2 of her mates for a couple of hours after school pickup till tea time. About Font 7c.
T: Nowt, in office but running all day workshop so no gym on lunch. Out for beers in evening. Post midnight Uber home.
W: Nowt due to dying of hangover.
T: Nowt, hectic day juggling work and child admin.
F: Nowt. No beers in evening, and an early night!
S: Managed an afternoon session at Big Depot while running errands. Short window so auto belays to warm up, then punter campus routine.
S: Nowt, though I did put my fingerboard up finally.
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M -
T - Went to Depot. Felt very clunky and elbows felt sore. Probably from having three sessions last week. Decided to leave the board alone and started on the new purples. Did about a third of them and then stopped when things were starting to get too hurty. Did some push ups. Index finger bleeding slightly at end so much moisturisation was done this week in preparation for the weekend.
W - Some massage of my trapzius with a tennis ball and some golfer's elbow dumbell exercises
T -
F - Drove from work to dunnyg's. Expressed a desire to eat nothing but the filthiest of foods. Went to a takeaway that was clearly a front for a money laundering operation. Surprisingly good burger and chips. Picked up Footwork and drove to Northumberland for a 30th birthday celebration.
S - Kyloe-In. Warmed up and then did Monty Python's Sit. Then Hitchhiker's on the 2nd go (feels like a 6C or a 6C+ when you can reach into the first flake hold with your foot still on the block). Didn't want to join the others on the Yorkshireman so looked at Crounching Tiger. Index finger skin gave out and started to bleed which was very frustrating as it felt like it would go but I'm terrible at climbing taped up. Taped up and carried on with it anyway and surprised myself by doing it which was fab. The end moves on the little crimps and little footholds are easy because of the positivity of the crimps, but as Ben said, you feel like a hero doing it. Felt about 7A+ for a non-midget. Then Jocks and Geordies from a sit. Tried a 7A eliminate but felt totally powered out on it and called it a day.
Felt like a good day performance-wise and an absolute triumph for craic, slagging, and piss-taking - and isn't that what it's all about?
S - More sheltering from the rain under the roofs at Back Bowden. Felt a bit beaten up from the day before. Did a 6C (The Vole LH) and flashed a reachy 7A (Under The Spell). Then tried Low and Hard which felt minging and was sacked off after expending too much energy on it. Got stuck into Hard Reign which is what I really wanted to do. Seemed impossible at first but we figured out all the moves and the climbing felt largely quite steady. Alas, didn't have the beans to put it all together and had a couple of goes falling from the final move into the good pocket at the top - just didn't have the static strength left to hold the final divot while moving the left hand. Normally I'd feel quite cross about this but it was a fair cop and down to a good day's climbing the day before as opposed to a stupid skin/conditions thing. The climbing itself and the enjoyable process of figuring out the sequence felt satisfying in its own right.
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Will, I love how when you do problems they're easy and probably soft, and when you don't do problems they are also easy! Have you ever climbed anything and thought it was really hard?
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...
Friday: Risked the lancs quarries and ended up very unmotivated at Wilton 2 (projects are in 3 but people were shooting there). All that was dry - pleasant and workable was the 7B sit to the arete Purple Feel. I've been no-where on this before - not even pulling off the deck (robin can atest to this) but managed to do the first couple of moves to the sitter and pretty much figured out what I needed to do - then the starting smear started not to work for me, meaning conditions got worse or (mor likely) I was tired and not pulling properly (core etc..). Did the stand a couple of times for good measure
https://youtu.be/zJlwnmvP50A
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I don't think I have ever seen someone place and readjust their foot 10 times in 1 second :lol:
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...
Friday: Risked the lancs quarries and ended up very unmotivated at Wilton 2 (projects are in 3 but people were shooting there). All that was dry - pleasant and workable was the 7B sit to the arete Purple Feel. I've been no-where on this before - not even pulling off the deck (robin can atest to this) but managed to do the first couple of moves to the sitter and pretty much figured out what I needed to do - then the starting smear started not to work for me, meaning conditions got worse or (mor likely) I was tired and not pulling properly (core etc..). Did the stand a couple of times for good measure
https://youtu.be/zJlwnmvP50A
...
I don't think I have ever seen someone place and readjust their foot 10 times in 1 second :lol:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVdbAM0SgRQ
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M: nothing, parenting duties all evening while my better half was at work.
T: flu jab in the morning so no training
W: Avertical World. Warm up on the autobelays up and down white 4+ twice, up and turquoise 5+ ,up and down black 5+ up and down yellow 6a, up pink 6b down 5+. Followed by bouldering focusing on working problems at my limit on the orange, pink and white circuits (V5-V7), stuck the last move on my Orange (v4-v5) project on the stepped overhang from last week.
T: nothing
F: Transition Extreme, warmed up by climbing 18 minutes continuously up and down the green 5+ on Autobelay, wall was heaving and the bouldering is rubbish anyway so I did 4x4 foot on campus boarding 1-5-1 40sec on 80sec off, 4 minutes between sets. Then dips and press-ups on the rings to work antagonists some floor based core work and finally lower body stretches to cool down. Weighed myself when I got home 12st 9.5lbs, 7lbs heavier than my summer time low, I’m really missing the light summer evenings spent on the mountain bike.
S: nothing, DOMS.
S: 1 hour mucking about in a swimming pool with my youngest, was dreading this due to upperbody DOMS but the splashing about seemed to loosen everything out nicely.
Goal for this week, find enough weights to do a 2 arm max hang test on the edge I finally put up in my garage
STG (December) do more than one of the pink or white circuit problem (v6-V7) at Avertical world
MTG (January) do one of the purple circuit problems (v8+)
LTG was supposed to be an 8a route before my 40th Birthday (February 2019) not looking likely without a rope! Think I’ll stick to getting strong instead.
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Will, I love how when you do problems they're easy and probably soft, and when you don't do problems they are also easy! Have you ever climbed anything and thought it was really hard?
Fake news.
Hard at the grade: Free Range, Pebble Wall, Blockbuster, Handy Andys, Angle Ben's, Colt, Mouse Wall (there are easier 6C+s), Sounds and Silences, The Green Traverse at the Glen, Omo, Gemenid Trail etc etc etc.
It's just your confirmation bias talking. Crouching Tiger felt as hard as English Rose which is very similar in style. The top moves of it are a doddle which effectively makes it a one move problem. One move 7B+s are vastly harder than Crouching Tiger.
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Will, I love how when you do problems they're easy and probably soft, and when you don't do problems they are also easy! Have you ever climbed anything and thought it was really hard?
Fake news.
Hard at the grade: Free Range, Pebble Wall, Blockbuster, Handy Andys, Angle Ben's, Colt, Mouse Wall (there are easier 6C+s), Sounds and Silences, The Green Traverse at the Glen, Omo, Gemenid Trail etc etc etc.
It's just your confirmation bias talking. Crouching Tiger felt as hard as English Rose which is very similar in style. The top moves of it are a doddle which effectively makes it a one move problem. One move 7B+s are vastly harder than Crouching Tiger.
He's always like this Stubbs.
Crouching Tiger is a one move tricky deadpoint (which if you're less than 5'11 you will struggle not dabbing) followed by very small crimps. Will excels at this type of wall climbing and has a decent baseline for it. It's funny he finds Geminid Trail so hard because his power endurance or anything which requires heels is shocking. See pebble wall also which is essentially just sitting on your heel. English Rose is a totally morpho lank fest which I would have no hope of sending. Will saying it's a similar style just goes to show how blinkered he is on the difficulty of things.
If he ever does Red Baron Roof it will be 7C.
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Tall person with strong fingers finds some problems easier than others in the grade shocker?? :D
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A short one from me this week to spare you a route by route run through of Siurana last week. Suffice to say a lot of onsighting was done with the best redpoint being L'Escamarla; superb route for anyone who might have a look in the future. I went to have a look at Hot Knife as suggested by Wood FT last week but disappointingly found the top wet.
Lots of Estrella was drunk in the bar over the week and climbed 8 days straight without a rest. Feeling pretty wasted today.
Skin surprisingly ok so loooking forward to a bit of indoor action this week and hopefully out on the grit at the weekend. Putting the rope away for a few months now; a good excuse to wash it!
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Are you going to be resuming your residency as the "Almscliff Wall Bollocker" now Jim?
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Will, I love how when you do problems they're easy and probably soft, and when you don't do problems they are also easy! Have you ever climbed anything and thought it was really hard?
Fake news.
Hard at the grade: Free Range, Pebble Wall, Blockbuster, Handy Andys, Angle Ben's, Colt, Mouse Wall (there are easier 6C+s), Sounds and Silences, The Green Traverse at the Glen, Omo, Gemenid Trail etc etc etc.
It's just your confirmation bias talking. Crouching Tiger felt as hard as English Rose which is very similar in style. The top moves of it are a doddle which effectively makes it a one move problem. One move 7B+s are vastly harder than Crouching Tiger.
He's always like this Stubbs.
Truth!
To be fair, one movers can be hard to grade: to state the blindingly obvious, if you can do the one move they feel ok, if you can't then they feel impossible. New Rose is a classic example (that I predict Will would give about 7A).
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The plan for this winter is to only go to the cliff on extremely marginal days and explore Yorkshire a bit more; but rest assured that if the need arises, the bollocking shall be delivered!
I gather that its been remarkably quiet up there so far this season, nowhere near the numbers of last year. Perhaps people are branching out?
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STG: strength work (bouldering / fingerboard) 2-3 times a week. Manage aches and pains. Do a Kettle movement drill each time I go to the wall.
MTG: a proper 7b+ this winter.
LTG: a classic Pembroke E5; 5.13 at 60
M - Shoulder stretches, shoulder strength (side planks, reverse flys, inclined pull-ups)
T - Fingerboard: very brief max. hangs.
W - Shoulder stretches
T - Shoulder stretches
F - Shoulder stretches, shoulder strength
S - Shoulder stretches, hip and knee strength (squats, bridges). Fingerboard: very brief max. hangs.
S - Hips and knees strength, shoulder strength.
As for last week, work/cold/shoulder tweaks/other aggravations have limited training. I’m going to pat myself on the back for keeping things ticking over.
Plan: shoulder, knee and hip strength/conditioning twice weekly. Sign-up for a month at Blocfit and ease back into bouldering. Give prayers and offerings to the weather Gods, some outdoor climbing would be really good for my general well-being.
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Tall person with strong fingers finds some problems easier than others in the grade shocker?? :D
I have always wondered about this actually, but what is considered "tall" in climbing? I occasionally get accused of "lanking things", but I am only 5'11 with +1 ape so usually just take is as complimentary of something or other.
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M - Good strong session at the wall, getting up some fairly hard stuff and feeling strong on the board proj.
T - I can feel something coming on... oh god I hope it isn't...
W - Tonsillitis, fuck sake
<repeat>
Went that way for the rest of the week, antibiotics since Weds. What a total washout!
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I gather that its been remarkably quiet up there so far this season, nowhere near the numbers of last year. Perhaps people are branching out?
That or the weather's been so utterly wank as to even put the keenest individuals off!
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Tall person with strong fingers finds some problems easier than others in the grade shocker?? :D
I have always wondered about this actually, but what is considered "tall" in climbing? I occasionally get accused of "lanking things", but I am only 5'11 with +1 ape so usually just take is as complimentary of something or other.
Don't worry about it. With that ape index you're still allowed to complain about things being too spanny, just ask Dave Mason ;)
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If he ever does Red Baron Roof it will be 7C.
This is exactly what I was thinking! I'll write Will's PC entry for later this winter:
"S: Shipley Glen, best conditions I've ever experienced, velcro would love to be as adherent as the rock was today. Warmed up on the usual circuit of technical aretes and walls (all soft by at least 2 grades) and then got on Red Baron Roof. Did it third go of the day, ending my multi year siege. Felt easy, probably only a grade harder than Demon Wall Roof really, just didn't really suit me."
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m:rest
t:max hangs
w:BUK 55 board worked on a few things I was trying for a while pre injury, still need to get the last move of fish and chips dialed though!
t:rest
f:max hangs
s:BUK 55 board working more projects and getting close on a few others. hoping to finish off a few next session on the board!
s:depot easier mileage with the other half
max hangs are up +29kg half crimp (or masonic crimp, thought this was the standard half crimp ngl) at 63kg on the bottom BM 1k hold for 10s, not far off previous PBs suggesting my fingers getting better again. groin feels a lot better since pulling it doing the splits, hopefully I'll be able to get outside again in another week or so.
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Tall person with strong fingers finds some problems easier than others in the grade shocker?? :D
I have always wondered about this actually, but what is considered "tall" in climbing? I occasionally get accused of "lanking things", but I am only 5'11 with +1 ape so usually just take is as complimentary of something or other.
I'd consider above 6' (including any +/- ape index corrections) to be 'tall'.
Thats a E5 6b, F7a+, H5 type approximation...
On a personal note, I'm happy to take whatever grade a problem is given. Thought theres no fucking way that Big Marine (that I was unsucessfully trying today) is only 7A+..... :D
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That or the weather's been so utterly wank as to even put the keenest individuals off!
That was precisely how the crag got a load of hammer last year to be fair. There were even people from the Peak up there. I gather Plantation and Trackside take longer to dry than DWR :tease:
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Tall person with strong fingers finds some problems easier than others in the grade shocker?? :D
I have always wondered about this actually, but what is considered "tall" in climbing? I occasionally get accused of "lanking things", but I am only 5'11 with +1 ape so usually just take is as complimentary of something or other.
I'd consider above 6' (including any +/- ape index corrections) to be 'tall'.
Thats a E5 6b, F7a+, H5 type approximation...
On a personal note, I'm happy to take whatever grade a problem is given. Thought theres no fucking way that Big Marine (that I was unsucessfully trying today) is only 7A+..... :D
Never thought at 5'9' I'd be considered tall...
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Tall person with strong fingers finds some problems easier than others in the grade shocker?? :D
I have always wondered about this actually, but what is considered "tall" in climbing? I occasionally get accused of "lanking things", but I am only 5'11 with +1 ape so usually just take is as complimentary of something or other.
I'd consider above 6' (including any +/- ape index corrections) to be 'tall'.
Thats a E5 6b, F7a+, H5 type approximation...
On a personal note, I'm happy to take whatever grade a problem is given. Thought theres no fucking way that Big Marine (that I was unsucessfully trying today) is only 7A+..... :D
Yeah I tend to think the same. There seems to be a bias towards top level climbers being smaller individuals, clearly height, and therefore lanking ability, does not scale as well as power to weight/finger strength/ability to easily front lever at the higher levels.
And yes I agree with the philosophy of "take the grade it gets" wholeheartedly! Though, because I am a climber with fairly apparent strengths (yarding off/to bad edges or pinches), I do find myself taking lower grades for quite a few things, especially in North Wales where you can find these moves very often. Seems I have brought this back full circle! :oops:
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Thought theres no fucking way that Big Marine (that I was unsucessfully trying today) is only 7A+..... :D
That problem is my complete anti-style... but every year I devote at least a session to it, in the futile hope that another season of stamina-plod sport routes has made me better at explosive four move sequences!
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Power Club
Mon - fingers, garage session. One arm hangs on 1,5; a few regular hangs on 0,5; tests on 0,9 and Lattice edge.
Tue - rest.
Wed - weights of some sort.
Thu - some board climbing. Knee didn't like it.
Fri - 1' overhead barbell walk (30 kg), 1' farmer's walk (60 kg), 1' rest x10. Brutal. No straps.
Sat - boxing bag. Pull ups. Abs.
Sun - rest.
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Thought theres no fucking way that Big Marine (that I was unsucessfully trying today) is only 7A+..... :D
That problem is my complete anti-style... but every year I devote at least a session to it, in the futile hope that another season of stamina-plod sport routes has made me better at explosive four move sequences!
Its very frustrating... last year I think I was fairly often doing the first move then screwing up the next one (didnt trust my LH on the large slopey edge - maybe I should crimp the edge or something..). But today, I just couldnt get the right placec for my LF on that first deadpoint.. theres a large obvious one thats just a teeny bit too low (I catch the hold but cut loose) and another thats way too high - and one in the middle that is a bit shit and not quite right for my body morph. Grr. Annoying those 'figuring out how you last did it' sessions...
Made progress on Fertile Delta though - dropped the penultimate move (swinging up frmo the sidepull to an edge with my LH) 3-4 times before ran out of juice/motivation etc...
That place takes no prisoners..
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I’ve got a ‘weak mans’ beta vid if that would help?
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I’ve got a ‘weak mans’ beta vid if that would help?
Yes please :)
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Yeah I tend to think the same. There seems to be a bias towards top level climbers being smaller individuals, clearly height, and therefore lanking ability, does not scale as well as power to weight/finger strength/ability to easily front lever at the higher levels.
I can't remember where, but someone looked at the statistics for the top 100 climbers on 8.nu and the height distribution was the same as for the general population.
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Had the week off work just using up holiday really. In summary, had to climb indoors twice where I felt strong, and managed two outdoor sessions where I didn't.
M - weather and skin meant a visit to Trowbarrow. I came really close on Iron Man back in May just before it got stupid hot, so to be fair I am keen to get stuck back in. Best conditions I've ever had there. Repeated Ned's Stand and The Groove first go, Vitruvian Man second go and VM RH after a few goes. Then worked on the link from the start of The Groove into Vitruvian Man (I.e. Iron Man but without the first three moves from the sit). Didn't do it. Got to the crux RH slap a few times but never felt really close to sticking it. Finished off repeating Jazz Phenomena and Ned's Sit both first go so I at least know I have the sit start moves wired still.
T & W - nada, rain
T - still wet and was getting cabin fever so went to The Leeds Depot. Basically warmed up then had an experimental campus board session. I've not done this since my first initial forays into training for climbing years ago. Best I managed was 3-5-7 leading left hand on the large rungs. Couldn't quite do it leading right but did 3-5-6.5. Dreadful basically. Kept it very short, roughly 30 'impacts' on the campus board.
F - Carrock Fell. Cold but very humid and little breeze. Warmed up on and got stuck into Toejam & Earl. Unfortunately I didn't quite read the beta that would work for me quickly enough, so although I got close a few times trying it one way I was a bit shot by the time I found a higher percentage method on the crux. Thereafter I made it through to the very final moves on my best go but just didn't have the beans. Had a blast though, amazing problem.
S - drove to two different wet crags before admitting defeat and heading to The Depot. Warmed up then went on the board. Surprised myself doing Austrian Mock first go, then repeated the problem I managed for the first time last week, also first go. A friend then very nearly flashed what I'd thought would be a fairly tough problem on the 30 so had a few tries myself and did it. Nowhere near as hard as I'd thought it'd be. Lastly had a few goes at the upper moves of one of 36C's problems on the 50 (A Steady Intro for those familiar) and again surprised myself by actually managing most of the moves and a half decent link! I've always shied away from this given how small the holds are so really pleased to be making some progress.
S - nada, dug the garden up a bit
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Weak mans big marine
Vid 1 slip off wet jug
Vid 2 catch dryish jug with same beta- towards end of vid
Second vid isn’t really helpful tho
Reckon I kept my feet low and popped to hold a slight swing
Watch Longridge on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/155253749
Watch Big Marine bet on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/200554315
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Thought theres no fucking way that Big Marine (that I was unsucessfully trying today) is only 7A+..... :D
That problem is my complete anti-style... but every year I devote at least a session to it, in the futile hope that another season of stamina-plod sport routes has made me better at explosive four move sequences!
Its very frustrating... last year I think I was fairly often doing the first move then screwing up the next one (didnt trust my LH on the large slopey edge - maybe I should crimp the edge or something..). But today, I just couldnt get the right placec for my LF on that first deadpoint.. theres a large obvious one thats just a teeny bit too low (I catch the hold but cut loose) and another thats way too high - and one in the middle that is a bit shit and not quite right for my body morph. Grr. Annoying those 'figuring out how you last did it' sessions...
Made progress on Fertile Delta though - dropped the penultimate move (swinging up frmo the sidepull to an edge with my LH) 3-4 times before ran out of juice/motivation etc...
That place takes no prisoners..
There is always hope... this Saturday, on Big Marine, after years of never properly latching the pocket (2nd move), I started repeatedly latching the gaston (3rd move). Just got to somehow pull up to the break now. On Sunday, I managed the sitter to Fertile Delta, after years of similar non-progress (including several years of being entirely unable to repeat the stand) - cool rose move btw, well worth trying just for that.
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Tall person with strong fingers finds some problems easier than others in the grade shocker?? :D
I have always wondered about this actually, but what is considered "tall" in climbing? I occasionally get accused of "lanking things", but I am only 5'11 with +1 ape so usually just take is as complimentary of something or other.
I'd consider above 6' (including any +/- ape index corrections) to be 'tall'.
Sorry guys, after further discussion with Will Hunt, AKA Mr Lank Himself, I can only conclude that anything above 5' 10" is officially considered 'tall'.
:off: On a more serious note though, should the average climber be considered to be the average height of male and female combined? Which in the UK would be around 5' 6". I imagine boulder problems are generally graded with the average male height in mind.
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Weak mans big marine
Vid 1 slip off wet jug
Cheers Dan - are you quite tall? guessing so as syou get the first holds quite easily - in which case looks like your LF is on the good low hold..
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There is always hope... this Saturday, on Big Marine, after years of never properly latching the pocket (2nd move), I started repeatedly latching the gaston (3rd move). Just got to somehow pull up to the break now. On Sunday, I managed the sitter to Fertile Delta, after years of similar non-progress (including several years of being entirely unable to repeat the stand) - cool rose move btw, well worth trying just for that.
Did all the moves on FD sit last season when the rest of the problem was wet... the rose move is ace..
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Tall person with strong fingers finds some problems easier than others in the grade shocker?? :D
I have always wondered about this actually, but what is considered "tall" in climbing? I occasionally get accused of "lanking things", but I am only 5'11 with +1 ape so usually just take is as complimentary of something or other.
I would say tall is when you're a certain height than can use unconventional (not average height) beta making a problem easier. From observation the cut off is about 6ft. Take Frank at Ilkley for example. If you're 6ft (or have a reach thereabouts) you can span from the starting left hand hold to a really good pocket. It avoids doing a violent drop down off an ok intermediate. There's a queue of tall people who use this beta and say its 7C+. Is this the true grade? Probably not. It's just the great majority of people who climb it/ post it on social media are all notoriously tall and their voices drown out the minority.
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Weak mans big marine
Vid 1 slip off wet jug
Cheers Dan - are you quite tall? guessing so as syou get the first holds quite easily - in which case looks like your LF is on the good low hold..
I haven't done it yet, and as always with bouldering YMWV, but I am roughly your height (6'3") and adopting this this beta on Saturday resulted in massive progress after years of failing with alternatives.
https://vimeo.com/17981659 (https://vimeo.com/17981659)
For me, the key to making the first move a near certainty is to consciously engage the core and glutes, and to quote Mr Kettle's technique guide, "core pop" or "leg thrust" for the big pinch (I have to do similar for the big move on Fertile Delta SDS - with the stand it doesn't matter but after the sit, the extra impetus makes a difference when arriving there tired).
For the second move, I find it too bunched and awkward to place a heel on the starting hold - 90% of the time I peel off trying to shuffle fingers. I got better results with a high left toe on a nobble to the LHS (at the end of a chalked crimp. It feels a bit too high but if you do a very aggressive RF flag you kinda drop into the pocket. Then, if you keep rocking onto the LF, you can grab the gaston without moving your feet. [in in theory, then RF on starting hold, drop LF, and punt for glory... if only]
I am really hoping for non-rainy weather next weekend to keep on trying - first time I've been properly enthused by grit bouldering for a few years (enthusiasm eroded by too many doomed quests into the damp and inhospitable; a depressed Aguirre Wrath of God but with less monkeys). CyL is not exactly wild and lovely, but for me, there's a lot to be said for morning sun, shelter, reliable dryness, and sufficiently roadside that I can defrost my fingers in the car!
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A problem with big moves in between good holds that’s harder for tall people? Will bouldering wonders never cease?!
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There have been some revelations tonight. I have not, since being an adult, had cause to measure my height. I've met people who will say they're 6 foot tall, and I can see I'm shorter than them, so I've always just said that I'm 5 11. This made sense as since I started climbing at about 16 I've been called lanky and tall by all comers. Some months ago at Eureka, the little electric machine measured me at 179cm which I assumed was due to it being poorly calibrated. I got my wife to measure my height tonight and the result came out at 179cm. I was incredulous. I couldn't believe it. I had her measure me again. 179cm. I am 5 foot and 10 inches. Quite the fucking leviathan, me; towering over the heads of the other Lilliputian climbers, my booming laughter deafening them as I step over their highball boulder problems like a model train set.
So basically, other climbers have been gaslighting me for the past 10+ years. Footwork has been insisting for years that I'm at least 6 foot. AT LEAST 6 foot! I foolishly believed him. Don't let yourselves be deceived! If he says I'm six foot, imagine what grade Crouching Tiger might be?! Probably 5+! The biggest and best revelation came when it transpired, by his own admission, that Ben is no less than 180cm tall! A whole centimetre taller than me! Now, to be fair, he does have an ape index of 0, but mine is only 3 inches (i.e. 1.5 inches averaged across each arm) which, it transpires is the same as 36chambers' and gives me a reach identical to that of Dave Warburton, who to my knowledge has never been called lanky in his life.
Apologies for the length of this post, but I feel like Johnny Dawes after he's just been told that he's actually 6 foot 7 but he's just been bending his knees all his life.
Now, more about Ben. I give him a ribbing from time to time, as he does to me. The piss-taking is an indication of my adoration of him, but is only made possible by a number of severe character flaws which he possesses.
One such personality defect is that Ben believes himself to be the Platonic Climber. Anyone whose dimensions are not identical to his is in some way imperfect. On one day this weekend he said that I was cheating by being too tall; the very same day he accused 36c of cheating by being too short. It's beautifully evidenced by this quote:
Crouching Tiger is a one move tricky deadpoint (which if you're less than 5'11 you will struggle not dabbing)
Note that the height which he deems to be cheating is a height which, at the time of posting, he believed I exceeded, and is precisely 0.13 inches taller than him. So anyone who is discernibly taller than Ben is cheating on that problem. As it happens, the crux for anyone of roughly normal height is not dabbing. In a similar vein, he seems to think that anybody who he believes is taller than him is actually a mythical creature of some sort, capable of impossible feats of morphology. I remember him telling me that Razor at Crookrise would be easy for me because I would be able to reach statically into the pocket from the starting holds without using anything else. You would need a span of something like 7 foot to actually do this.
He's got me bang-to-rights about my heelwork being utterly shocking though.
English Rose is a totally morpho lank fest which I would have no hope of sending.
For the record, I don't think Ben ever actually pulled onto this. If he did, he certainly didn't give it more than a cursory go or two.
I needn't say any more about Crouching Tiger being more like 7A+ or 7B. I've given an objective opinion, backed up with comparison to benchmark problems (it has some vague similarity to Black Wall Dyno and I think that's a harder problem and hard in the grade in it's own right).
I'd like to thank Power Club for tolerating this divergence onto my favourite three topics: the nuisance of grades; dissing Ben; and myself.
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A problem with big moves in between good holds that’s harder for tall people? Will bouldering wonders never cease?!
I'm not saying it's harder for the tall... just harder for the weak.
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A problem with big moves in between good holds that’s harder for tall people? Will bouldering wonders never cease?!
I'm not saying it's harder for the tall... just harder for the weak.
Exactly - I mean - its - overhanging!!!
Cheers for the beta post Moose - on BM when I've got to the first hold fine then likewise I've popped a toe/heel on the good nubbin out left - deep flag and then... bottle out of going for the pocket as my LH is squirming on the shelf... :)
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Lastly had a few goes at the upper moves of one of 36C's problems on the 50 (A Steady Intro for those familiar) and again surprised myself by actually managing most of the moves and a half decent link! I've always shied away from this given how small the holds are so really pleased to be making some progress.
I'm glad you consider it worthwhile. I've also just remembered that I never got round to finishing your ZY replicas.
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Love the name of that problem, and Austrian Mock too!
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After last weeks discussion regarding grade based goals I have adjusted and clarified...
ST (now)
*marker pen out all the grades in my guides
*climb once a week
*Do pullups"
MT (1-2 years)
Find and get stuck into a project that is harder than anything I've done before. ideally near home, can be climbed alone, at night (if necessary) and is a proud line.
LT (Lifetime)
8c, 8B - I'm leaving the grades here - it's quantifiable rather than writing some nonsense about pushing myself to be my best on lines that inspire me. rest assured I have lines in mine but these lines may change but (hopefully) the grades I'm aiming for will not.
In reality I pay these grade goals little attention. One reason why I write them is to attempt to keep myself on track. I much prefer going to new crags and climbing what I can do without needing to return. However, I can see that there is value is projecting too and because I like to work my weaknesses - it is this weakness that I've written down as my goals.
M-F - somehow too tired or busy to fit in a climb - must be more organised this week
S - Rob's Wall 7c Eskdale. Staying about 500m away. snuck out early with Ellie and Robyn. Great line, very board like climbing. Had assumed that parenthood would make me lose a bit of fitness but hasn't appeared to be the case. Climbing less means I'm always fully rested between sessions. Trying harder because I know my time is limited. And my mind is often clearer (for climbing at least) because I have larger concerns than climbing now. Also did a couple of the highballs on the craglet in the wilderness area - good for the soul.
S - snuck out during a nap. Warmed up on the Animal boulder (very good arete - sickened by DVs mantels on the back :sick:) then over to Strong Arete 7a+ bumped into Chris at the boulder who beta'd be up and I promptly flashed. Easily qualifies for Lakes Top 50! back before the nap finished.
too busy in the week to climb but was made up for some perfect conditions in the Lakes and a satisfying performance on the climbs there. Eskdale ticks many boxes and sounds like we lucked out on the conditions when much of the country was experiencing clag!
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English Rose is a totally morpho lank fest which I would have no hope of sending.
For the record, I don't think Ben ever actually pulled onto this. If he did, he certainly didn't give it more than a cursory go or two.
I think Totally Morpho Lank Fests would make quite a good thread in its own right...
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STG - be able to weight arm again
M - still couldn't raise arm above shoulder, managed to make a physio appointment and had an ultra-sound which showed a tear to the Sub Scap and, more worryingly long term, wear to the rear of my shoulder socket from repeatedly latching holds dynamically. Annoyingly cant find anything about this online, quite common in baseball pitchers ands squash players apparenty. Anyone heard of it or physios that know anything about it?
T - core
W Legs and core
Th rest
Fr Legs and core
S rest
s core
Plus the physio twice a day, everyday
Have tried to gently weight my arm a few times but it complains so just keep doping the physio and be patient.
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Hi Ian, I believe what you’re describing is internal impingement
https://www.shoulderdoc.co.uk/article/1252
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M - still couldn't raise arm above shoulder, managed to make a physio appointment and had an ultra-sound which showed a tear to the Sub Scap and, more worryingly long term, wear to the rear of my shoulder socket from repeatedly latching holds dynamically. Annoyingly cant find anything about this online, quite common in baseball pitchers ands squash players apparenty. Anyone heard of it or physios that know anything about it?
Sorry to hear this is still pretty bad nai. Have faith, most injuries tend to go away with good rehab and the passage of time.
I'm interested in the comment "repeatedly latching holds dynamically". Is this from the phsyio? I feel like the statement specifically blames dynamic movement for your injury. I strongly believe that good dynamic movement is the key to reducing stresses on the body. Do you think it may be fairer to say something like "repeatedly latching holds with poor technique/shoulder control"? did the phsyio explain the mechanism that would cause dynamic movement to cause this injury?
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Do you think it may be fairer to say something like "repeatedly latching holds with poor technique/shoulder control"? did the phsyio explain the mechanism that would cause dynamic movement to cause this injury?
Yes that's probably much fairer. It's only the last few years I've been really concious of form and shoulder engagement so probably been climbing for 20+ years with my shoulders flapping around hanging off soft tissue.
It's likely been brought on now due to the training I've been doing since tearing my hamstring in September. I made some campus rungs and system holds on my board so was campussing and doing ladders locking off trying to increase body tension, so possible that I wasnt quite getting the shoulder properly engaged at full extension. Perhaps if the foot hold have been an inch higher?
Plus I started doing plank walkouts (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99DDQJJQ68c) which puts the same stresses through the shoulder, so basically too much too soon.
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Ouch! I hate to get into an online difference of medical opinion but I have to point out that shoulder 'pathology' is only very loosely associated with pain. Example (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4018774/). It's quite possible the tear and 'wear' has existed for years and will continue to exist once the pain has resolved. Another example (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10471998).
I'm also interested in the comment that the particular 'wear' (you could also call it normal age-related changes) can be so confidently nailed to the door of latching dynos. Any idea at the thought behind this? I'm with James highrepute on this and that good rehab. will probably help a great deal.
...so basically too much too soon.
Nearly always this.
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LT (Lifetime)
8c, 8B - I'm leaving the grades here - it's quantifiable rather than writing some nonsense about pushing myself to be my best on lines that inspire me. rest assured I have lines in mine but these lines may change but (hopefully) the grades I'm aiming for will not.
Was just listening to a podcast about this, which discussed this as identifying the quantitative goal, but knowing that the true value is in the process towards the goal, rather than the goal itself.
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LT (Lifetime)
8c, 8B - I'm leaving the grades here - it's quantifiable rather than writing some nonsense about pushing myself to be my best on lines that inspire me. rest assured I have lines in mine but these lines may change but (hopefully) the grades I'm aiming for will not.
Was just listening to a podcast about this, which discussed this as identifying the quantitative goal, but knowing that the true value is in the process towards the goal, rather than the goal itself.
Thanks. That summarises my thoughts nicely.
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Ouch! I hate to get into an online difference of medical opinion but I have to point out that shoulder 'pathology' is only very loosely associated with pain. Example (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4018774/). It's quite possible the tear and 'wear' has existed for years and will continue to exist once the pain has resolved. Another example (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10471998).
I did wonder could this wear not just be age related and perfectly normal? Something that doesnt quite make sense is he's suggesting this is the cause of the pain rather than the Sub-Scap tear but surely it's been there to a lesser degree for a while and would have been causing intermittent issues for months if not longer?
I'm also interested in the comment that the particular 'wear' can be so confidently nailed to the door of latching dynos. Any idea at the thought behind this? I'm with James highrepute on this and that good rehab. will probably help a great deal.
When he first saw it on the ultra sound he immediately said "you'll have to take campusing out of your training plans"
Other than my grade he hadn't ask anything about my climbing, think I might have said that I trained on a board but he'd have been making educated guesses about style. Kept referring to impact forces casuing it, referred to the baseball pitcher a lot and said it would be repetitive dynamic moves in climbing. I have always been a bit slappy so that all made sense but could just be making a circle fit a square.
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Internal impingement? Pain science to one side (just for a moment of course) ;)
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That does fit, Dan. This shoulder doesn't have the same range of motion as the left one does. Been like it for a couple of years and nobody has been able to resolve it.
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An arthrogram would show it up if it doesn’t resolve with standard graded rehab of course. I’m not an advocate of surgery by any means. Isn’t there some research about non dominant arms being stiffer? Unless you’re a lefty in which case it’s the other way round 😂
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Will - great post, enjoyed it a lot. I've always thought you were an absolute giant though. I think your next course of action needs to be to go and do Frank at Ilkley, as clearly Ben has a bee in his bonnet about that one and it'd obviously be piss.
Take Frank at Ilkley for example. If you're 6ft (or have a reach thereabouts) you can span from the starting left hand hold to a really good pocket. It avoids doing a violent drop down off an ok intermediate. There's a queue of tall people who use this beta and say its 7C+. Is this the true grade? Probably not. It's just the great majority of people who climb it/ post it on social media are all notoriously tall and their voices drown out the minority.
There's a similar queue of short people who say that Impropa Opera Sit is 7C+, and Grand Sit is 8A, whereas I've seen the first move characterised by taller folk as almost being 7C+ on it's own!
I've no idea what grade Frank is but I had a session last year just after having done a handful of other supposed 8s in similar style and couldn't touch it; literally couldn't do a single move. It then took me two sessions this year plus lots of training in the intervening period. On the other hand, walking in to Crookrise with a friend recently I mentioned that I'd like to try Razor. He promptly suggested I'd think it was about 7A+ due to my size, to which I replied that this would be my fourth session on it!
My point is that morphology is one thing but having the strength and skill to haul oneself up the problem is quite another! I think this is sometimes forgotten.
I'd agree that sometimes certain voices will drown out the majority but I think that's more because people will often gravitate towards things they excel at or which suit them. It's then more likely that they'll do the problem, which allows their view to propagate over the opinions of those who aren't suited to it, find it harder and are therefore less likely to try/do it.
Slash grades are the way forward if you ask me, but then no one wants to do a 7C+/8A. Of course the well rounded climber should focus on things they can't do as much as things they can.
I'm glad you consider it worthwhile. I've also just remembered that I never got round to finishing your ZY replicas.
It's quality, much appreciated. Really ought to re-acquaint myself with those as well.
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Ape is far more important than height IMHO.
I've climbed with not tall people with quite positive ape indices who despite being at least 6" shorter than me could reach or nearly reach pretty much everything I could..
I've also climbed with someone (at the wall a few times) who had a -4 ape index. They really struggled on most problems.
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Decided to get in on this in order to hopefully shame myself into doing a bit less fun climbing and a bit more “training”. Sort of feel like if I want to keep improving it is something I need to embrace.
Guess I’ll add in some goals to give context and it seems to be the done thing...!
STG (rest of this year) bouldering. Climb some quality 7A-Bs. 7B+ would be a PB. This is to help build up power for later goals, so if the weather is bad going indoors is no biggie. Also do odd route/circuit session to keep modicum of fitness up.
MTG (next year) 7c o/s, 8a quicker, 8a+ (mon dieu), more E6 o/s
M; up at 4:30 to drive to Wales for work. In the eve did lattice core workout and stretching.
T; Indy. Warmed up by climbing then did 10s on 10s off x 6 x 6 with 2 kg added on bottom bm 1000 rungs
W; rest (good boy)
T; Indy. Good session bouldering. Did Black 7A+ smoothly first go of the session. Techy, crimpy just off vert so my style but the top move is tricky if short. Also did purple 7A that has a big volume on that I struggled to grapple on previous occasions. Felt convincing on other problems too.
F; drove home and went to pub. So sort of rest.
S; felt hungover... shit weather so went to foundry. Had ok session on the wave, got close-ish on far right green spotty L5 but a reachy move at the top thwarted me. Did t do as well as a previous session on green spotty L5 on left of wave but still felt quite good considering. Did loads of pinks and yellows quickly as warm up. Bit more booze this eve too.
S; not hungover! Shit weather so hung out with gf until mid Arvo. Went to works with a good crew and got schooled on new wasps. Really enjoyed it as they felt doably hard, unlike last set which I rattled most off with relative ease.
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Forgot to do last weeks so here's 2. More time on projects and few ticks in between the random weather, t-shirts one day snow the next.
12th - 18th Nov
T. Transworld – Good session, linked from middle of first boulder to the top so probably time to start red pointing
W. Bob Marley Crag. No Redemption 13b 3rd go. A vert route with some great technical climbing and something very different to the usual Red steep jug hauls
F. Woke up to 5cms of snow on the ground! Transworld morning – 3 goes from the deck, first 2 fell in first boulder then decided to change the LH to a slightly different hold for the hard move. Feels like it makes the more a slightly harder lock off instead of a deadpoint so a high percentage move. Third go got through first boulder and fell on the stab to 3 finger sidepull pocket in second boulder. Did Hellraiser 12c at Purgatory in the afternoon.
S. Transworld – 3 more goes from the ground. Twice off the slab to the slopey slot at the end of the second boulder. Once made it through to going for the good crimps where there is a little shake with a poor kneebar before the top crux. Good progress.
19th- 25th Nov
T. Transworld - First go new highpoint, thought the if I stuck the first good edge at the end of the second boulder I’d do the next two moves into the shake. Turns out not the case when absolutely boxed, dropped in going to the rest hold taking a huge whip having skipped the previous 2 draws! Second go numbed out as soon as I left the rest but still almost match my highpoint. Third go managed to break through to the kneebar for the first time and manage to get all the way to the last hard move out left to where you shouldn’t drop it. Getting closer now.
W. Purgatory to belay Mina. Warmed up on the 12a we hadn’t done which turned out to be a very nice route. Tried Paradise lost 13a, dropped the last move on my flash go, then proceed to fall off it twice more before clawing up it on my last go. Felt tough for the grade, wouldn’t argue with it still being its original 13b grade.
F. Transworld – Felt rubbish on it today for some reason couldn’t get through the first boulder again, decided to climb on something else instead. Had a good flash go on Snooker 13a, fell just before ¾ height rest. Went easily second go, pretty hot in the sun for a change
S. Solar Collector/Gold Coast. Good warm ups on the SC wall, Buddha hole 11d and Blue-Eyed Honkey Jesus 12b. Moved over the try Golden boy 13b classic power endurance sprint to a hard slap to a sloper. Bolt to bolt to suss the moves, then 4 times off the slap. Gold coast is such a beautiful wall definitely keen to get that one finished off at some stage.
1 week left now but this week is brutally cold making any hard climbing pretty challenging. We have a flight on he 3rd but next week is looking really good at the moment so potentially going to extend for another 5-7 days.
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Sounds like it’s worth extending your stay if you can.
How’s Mina getting on?
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Have you talked anyone off a route yet, James? Gotta make dem gainz ;)
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Mina's doing well on her proj, doing big links but struggling with a stopper move from the ground. Just difficult to climb your hardest when it's so cold.