UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: tomtom on November 11, 2018, 07:36:01 pm
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Bonsoir...
M: WANTED to get to Anston to get BetaBlocker done... Woodhead pass closed... iffy forecast in the peak... so I went to the Depot and had an alright session and did a bit of work... Did a 25 min yoga routine/thing in the evening
Tu: Work - 15-20 min of yoga in the evening. At risk of incurring the wrath of PC observers by talking about Yoga - I hate Downward Dogs. My hamstrings are so so tight I cant get anywhere close with straight legs and as they send loads of blood to my head I feel really strange. Anyway - went for a pint afterwards...
We: Anston. Iffy forecast - but arrived in between showers and it was dry. BetaBlocker Psyche was high... Warmed up - felt good - foot popped on first attempt - second attempt something went twang in my knee..
https://youtu.be/0Lmp76WH9BI
Th: Hobbled about quite alot... it eased off with vit i. Lateral ligament strain I suspect...
Fr: Knee felt better - so figured I'd go to rehab central AKA the Depot.. had a really good session in the end. Really gradually ramping up to give my knee a chance. Almost climbing as normal by the end.
Sa & Su. Out of no-where I was gifted a pass for part of both days. Weather was passable too.. but not wanting to crock my knee, I did a load of core exercises on Sat - including some windscreen wipers (with bunched legs - not enough room to swing em extended) which really are quite a work out that I'm not used to. Ached on sunday - and in 5 baby free hours watched TV, had a nice lunch and fell asleep on the sofa for 90 min or so...
Back on it tomorrow :)
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STG: strength work (bouldering / fingerboard) 2-3 times a week. Manage aches and pains. Do a Kettle movement drill each time I go to the wall.
MTG: a proper 7b+ this year.
LTG: a classic Pembroke E5; 5.13 at 60
M - Hip, trunk, knee and shoulder conditioning.
T - Shoulder stretches
W - Vauxwall east. Bouldering to c.V3
T - Shoulder stretches,shoulder strengthening, trunk strengthening including prone Y on the rings (or should I say working towards)
F - Vauxwall east. Bouldering to c.V3. Did their ‘benchmark’ V2,V3 and V4 problems (cruxes all 3 infuriatingly high-up). Had a play on the 40 degree moonboard. Hmmm, not sure this is for me. 25 degree version might be a bit more applicable to my needs.
S - Shoulder strength, shoulder stretches, caught up on sleep.
S - Shoulder strength, shoulder stretches.
Thought about getting out this weekend but the usual team all unavailable, feeling a little run-down and couldn’t face the 6 hours of driving on my own.
Falling off the top of boulder problems is not doing my ankle much good, so will seek out a wall with good 20-25 degree boards and get stuck in as per this thread (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,29673.0.html). Other criterion is London zone 2. Blocfit (Brixton) looks a good option, anyone been?
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M - after a long slow warm up while trying to work out whether Anston would be dry I gambled and headed back to Apprentice area where I'd worked a new low traverse the previous week. Luckily it was fully dry and I managed to link the hard section quickly then amazed myself and did it from the start next go. Reckon it's slightly easier than Apprentice Prow but starting far right and climbing a 6B section means you're tired by the time you get to the crux (or there's a kneebar rest available half way of you're inclined) so 7A seems fair.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJuTwBFN-2o
Full description here: https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,29699.0.html
T nowt
W
core
system board
gymnastic stuff
Doesn't feel like I've done much on the system session straight way but always feel it later
Th Legs & short gym session, managed a tuck handstand for about 2s
F - fingerboard testing session, max hang up 10kg, pretty pleased with that
TRX
Core
S - intended rest but started messing around with nipper doing balances then squats and lunges on a wobble disc and ended up doing a whole leg workout again. Found it more enjoyable than using weights and it felt pretty effective too.
S rest, but some shoulder and leg massage and stretching throughout the day
Missed AeroCap again this week, must get back into the habit of doing it.
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Get well soon Tom.
M-10k run
T-
W-
T-half decent session down the works at the “yellow party”. New yellows, 5-6A, were very popular indeed. Ticked all of them. Three non-flashes. Shoulder seemed ok.
F-
S-5k run
S-Weather iffy so works, had intended to repeat Thursday but was persuaded to try the murple circuit, 6C-7A. Murph “I can’t do murples” became Murph “9 murples in a session”. Though I’m sure that the ones I ticked were towards the 6A end of 6C-7A this was a major breakthrough. Best indoor session of the year.
Weight 64.9kg->64.2. Moving in the right direction again.
Had meant to put Rock Climbing Technique drills into practice but didn’t get act together. Still, mustnt grumble.
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M - rest.
T - Depot. Pretty good session, starting to feel like I'm remembering how to boulder again. Not used to big dynamic moves after a summer on the limestone.
W - fingerboard. Weak again, think the problem is doing it second day on. Need to reconfigure this when back from Spain. Finished off with some core but in a bad mood after fingerboard spanking so sacked it off fairly quickly.
T - Depot. Another good session. Did a few yellows which are normally a good benchmark for me.
F - rest. Sorely tempted to go to the pub but resisted.
S - Predator. Two redpoints, both felt good but no high point. Second go totally in the zone but spooned the sequence and fell off. On the plus side, I now know exactly how to do the crux, its just a matter of doing it.
S - Predator. Felt really good on the warm up bolt to bolt go and repped the crux a few times to try and learn the positions. Smashed through previous high point and shook out for ages on the flattie. Went full a muerte on the last hard section before the jug and dropped it one move from good holds, utterly boxed and unable to crimp up the holds. Gutted as one more move and I think I'd have been in. Had a second go but was understandably powered out and dropped the crux again. Both very pleased and very pissed off!
Good week but its the hope that kills you. Off to Spain on Friday so the weekend is out. Thinking of going back on Wednesday for a last ditch effort. Sort of wish I hadn't got so close as then I could knock it on the head for the winter with no 'what ifs' in the back of my head!...
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M - Depot Leeds in the evening. Did a couple of yellows in short order, both of which had previously rejected my advances. Tried a couple more yellows briefly to no avail then went on the 50'. Tried three problems where I can do all the moves but haven't linked them yet; still the case. Three goes on each, mostly falling from crux moves higher up.
T lunchtime - 2 rounds of a circuit of weighted pull ups (x4r, up from 3 last week, @ 20kg), dips (same reps/weight) and TRX Is & Ts. However, also added 1 arm pull ups at the start of each circuit and managed 2 reps on each arm with half decent form, using one of the thick purple bands for assistance
T evening - general fingerboard warm up then gradually increasing weighted hangs before finally doing 5x 1r 10s hangs + 25kg on the BM2K low edges, 4f half crimp
W - 3km run in the evening
T morning - general fingerboard warm up then gradually increasing weighted hangs before finally doing 3x 1r 10s hangs + 25kg on the BM2K low edges, 4f half crimp
T evening - very unstructured but enjoyable session at the Depot Leeds. Repeated a couple of yellows, made progress on a couple others, tried an orange and failed miserably plus did a few purples that I'd not tried before.
F & S - lots of stretching, foam rolling and mobility work
S - had hoped to get out on the grit (hence 2 days off prior) but heavy rain through the morning put paid to that. Went to the Depot instead briefly and did a very short session. Shame not to get out as I felt really rather good. Only items of note were flashing what felt like a very hard move on the barrel yellow (dropping RH into and undercut) and making up a simulator of one of my projects.
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Two weeks from me due to being away:
29-Oct -> 4-Nov
M: Tag rugby - lost match
T: Arch. Spent a while on the new set, almost did a new white (V5 - 7) but very hard, more like 8. Retroflashed another white and finished with a bit of moonboard and campusing
F: Arch. Shortish session at the wall on problems
5-Nov -> 11-Nov
Week in Iceland doing lots of driving and walking. Managed a couple of bouldery traverses in my big boots on some basalt columns :)
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11.2-11.3 average 157.0 up 0.3lb
M.
T.
W. Cloudy, rainy good conditions. Warm up Consenting then did Taking the Space with rests including the runout on wet footholds in the rain. Warm up go on Oak. First redpoint climbed it perfectly. Didn’t get horn in exactly the right place but should have been able to hold it and adjust but didnt. Mental block no doubt. Next two attempts not so good. Ethan got Predator. Decided it was last day on it for year
T. PM Foundry - shortish campus board session
F. Foundry campus. Some improvement. Then moved onto Wave. Tried green and black spots right of centre of steep bit from standing - good moves. Flashed pink to its left and fell off going for top on pink on flash on its right. Eve drove to Northumberland on long planned "lads" trip with Dolly, Mark and Robin. Rained all the way
S. Kyloe in. Warm ups. We got on Monty Python sit. Multiple attempts and got close to holding the sloper a couple of times. Dolly got it. Surprisingly Rob blew it a couple of times at the top just before the handjams. Eve Fine meal in Packhorse in Ellingham - recommended
S. Hepburn. Threatening skies. Did some good warm ups. Joined by Karl T and Wodger. Did Another Flake 6C then started raining. I was keenish for a return to Kyloe but the others weren't so decamped to Karl's for tea, then back to Sheff.
Nice weekend away. Although I said it was my last day at Malham have somehow provisionally booked to go back on Friday with Paul. Going to keep at campus for a few weeks and see if I can get back to doing 1-4-6 on S7 rungs and 1-4-7 on jugs which I think I've managed in the past. Reset replicas of two of the hardest moves on the lower section of the Oak on my board but not tried them yet.
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M:Contortion class, managed to get my box splits to the floor and was close to pancaking. However, I managed to pull my groin...
T:Campussing and 30 degree board, could still climb so long as I ensure my right leg isn't used for pulling...
W:Rest
T:Cave was the driest I've seen it this year. Madness. Unproductive and painful session.
F:Rest
S:Max hangs, campussing and creating a few longer problems on the 30 board to do in the future.
S:Easy session with the other half.
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Rehab Diaries week 12
STG- Leading at least HVS/ low 6s by end Sept 2019.
M- Rest. Didn't sleep well.
T- Rest.Tired.
W- Daytime 3x7 pullups, 3x20 pushups. Evening gym. 30 minutes on the bike, levels up 1 from last week as usual. Sweating and grunting as usual.
T- Rest.
F- Foundry autobelays.As last Sunday I just tried "aspirational" routes after doing a 5 to warm up. Shockingly improved on these! The main route I try is a slightly overhanging 6b+ (white at left side of the Furnace if anyone's interested)- on Sunday the crux for me was that I had to match a hold 2/3rds of the way up and absolutely yard on it (while yelling) to get my right hand onto the next hold, which felt so thin that I'd sometimes just fire off it. Today I could just do this move without matching the first hold, didn't have to grunt and never droppped the move! Two hour session in total. Really good progress.
S- Filming a bit in the morning, which involved carrying stuff. Walk along Curbar in the afternoon.
S- Gym. Experimental first session on the leg machines. Wanted to find a way to just work my weak leg as I inevitably favour the strong one when I'm struggling on the bike. Tried two that you do up and down curls on but it turns out that the leg press machine is an amazing rehab tool for me- it's perfectly adaptable to one-legged use (you can plant your foot right in the middle of the plate) and hit my biggest weakness, pressing out from a totally bent leg. Did this with increasing weights to failure. Walk around Millstone/ Lawrencefield later.
More progress. Can't believe how much better I'm getting at (indoor) climbing.The cool thing is that my technique is still there, I just lack the physical ability to apply it all, so as I get more strength and coordination back, I'm suddenly so much more improved in what I can climb. It's fun!
Unexpectedly, using the leg press machine immediately gave me more freedom of movement in my bad leg- I could touch my left heel to my arse yesterday evening for the first time since the accident. ;D Not sure what aspect of the excercise helped this (could it be neural?) but it's more good news. Going to use the leg press machine every week from now on- I'll benchmark my right leg with it and keep going 'til my left is that strong too.
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Almost surely neural. Inspiring logs btw, thanks for posting these
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Nice one Cheque, good to hear you're on the mend rapidly. Assume your progress on the Furnace route could just be getting back to your "base level" again through actually doing some climbing, plus a bit of recruitment?
As for updates from me, followed up a pretty good week with nada due to combination of work stress, home / partner logistics, feeling a bit under the weather, then finally at end of the week, poorly child. Not a good week for my attempts at booze-free weeknights either on account of the above.
On the plus side, listened to a few training /climbing podcasts and am on a mission to get my fingerboard up in the kitchen this week as I'm working from home a fair bit, which is bad for my lunchtime gym sessions, but would afford me an hour to smash out a hanging session at home.
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W. Warm up go on Oak. First redpoint climbed it perfectly. Didn’t get horn in exactly the right place but should have been able to hold it and adjust but didnt. Mental block no doubt.
In future, please bear in mind that you have an audience reading these posts who are emotionally invested in this almighty siege. My heart nearly leapt from my chest on reading the first two short sentences.
The comment about the mental block confirms my armchair coaching comment that one of the more significant barriers to success for you is now mental (hardly surprising after so much time vested in the route). What Pete said about training failure struck a chord. A winter doing 'up' problems on the grit and reading Jerry's book is my prescription.
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The comment about the mental block confirms my armchair coaching comment that one of the more significant barriers to success for you is now mental (hardly surprising after so much time vested in the route). What Pete said about training failure struck a chord. A winter doing 'up' problems on the grit and reading Jerry's book is my prescription.
Yes I am keen for grit bouldering starting tomoorrw in fact.
Lanny Bassham's "With Winning in Mind" is on my xmas list and is meant to be good
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First full week in the Red
M.
T. Purgatory. Not much of note really. Gave Lucifer a couple of goes, can do the moves and little sections so feel like it could be possible but I’d much rather spend my trip on other stuff seen as there is so much to go at. Then had a poor flash go on Dracula 04 which just turned into a working burn.
W. Motherlode. Got horrendously flash pumped warming up on a 12a, then got on Transworld Depravity 14a. Did all the moves and linked the 3 cruxy boulder problems. Amazing route definitely keen to put some time in, hopefully feel better in colder non-humid conditions.
T. Went out and shot photos of Mina and Anna on Lucifer.
F.
S. Morning session on Transworld. Really cold conditions but warmed up well and didn’t feel too bad when climbing. Good session, linked the 2 middle boulders from rest to rest and then the top boulder to the top. Pleased with how it went feels like a goer.
S. Another morning session on Transworld. Car thermometer was reading –2 on arrival to the parking. Felt a bit under the weather from waking up so didn’t have high expectations. Repeated yesterday's links and wrote off some bits of beta so not a complete waste. Went over to the Purgatory in the afternoon and finished off Dracula 04 13b in horrible fashion with numb hands and missing all my feet, not my finest display of climbing.
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Blocfit (Brixton) looks a good option, anyone been?
Yup, and will be returning when I'm next in London.
It's tiny and scrappy and can only be found by venturing down an underground tunnel filled with garages; I felt like I probably lost years off my life from the petrol fumes. What you see in the photo on the website is most of the wall -- there's a balcony which (IIRC) has TRX stuff, and a weights area under it, and that's it. I liked it a lot!
The Board de Lune is 40 degrees so don't know if that's a dealbreaker for you. It's all very short so would be ankle-friendly.
It would be absolute rubbish if you want to boulder and have lots of nice new problems each time, but would be very good for doing focused training because it doesn't give you any other options.
Forgot to say, nice atmosphere -- based on one visit, it seemed friendly but non-intrusive and not snobby. Obvious assumption that if you're there you're there to train and have your own plans for what you want to do, but no sense that anyone who's not doing 1-5-9 is out of place.
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It's tiny and scrappy and can only be found by venturing down an underground tunnel filled with garages; I felt like I probably lost years off my life from the petrol fumes. What you see in the photo on the website is most of the wall -- there's a balcony which (IIRC) has TRX stuff, and a weights area under it, and that's it. I liked it a lot!
The Board de Lune is 40 degrees so don't know if that's a dealbreaker for you. It's all very short so would be ankle-friendly.
It would be absolute rubbish if you want to boulder and have lots of nice new problems each time, but would be very good for doing focused training because it doesn't give you any other options.
Thank you. Sounds like the anti-Castle. Totally what I am looking for. 40° MB not a deal breaker as they have the lower angle circuit and symmetry boards.
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Sort of wish I hadn't got so close as then I could knock it on the head for the winter with no 'what ifs' in the back of my head!...
Great to have that motivation brewing over the winter though, fuel to the fire.
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Quick questions before I try it out tonight:
For increasing "finger endurance" (i.e. the feeling of fingers having no strength left after a number of fingery moves - felt this while trying Hannibal in the summer), would repeaters be the best exercise? Assuming 7 on 3 off for 6 or 8 reps, 3 sets is the protocol. Which size holds should I be using for half-crimp?
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Quick questions before I try it out tonight:
For increasing "finger endurance" (i.e. the feeling of fingers having no strength left after a number of fingery moves - felt this while trying Hannibal in the summer), would repeaters be the best exercise? Assuming 7 on 3 off for 6 or 8 reps, 3 sets is the protocol. Which size holds should I be using for half-crimp?
Thats what I've been doing Ross. I used a combination of a lattice/campus rung, bottom outside on the 2000 and the deep slot on the 2000. When I was going well on it a few weeks back I did slot x 2, lattice rung x3, slot x2. The holds are large because I had a 10kg vest on, although I took that off when doing a set on the bottom outside! 7 secs on, 5 off (allows time to chalk up), x 7. Hope that helps.
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Great to have that motivation brewing over the winter though, fuel to the fire.
Hoping it won't come to that, but you're not wrong!
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Quick questions before I try it out tonight:
For increasing "finger endurance" (i.e. the feeling of fingers having no strength left after a number of fingery moves - felt this while trying Hannibal in the summer), would repeaters be the best exercise? Assuming 7 on 3 off for 6 or 8 reps, 3 sets is the protocol. Which size holds should I be using for half-crimp?
Thats what I've been doing Ross. I used a combination of a lattice/campus rung, bottom outside on the 2000 and the deep slot on the 2000. When I was going well on it a few weeks back I did slot x 2, lattice rung x3, slot x2. The holds are large because I had a 10kg vest on, although I took that off when doing a set on the bottom outside! 7 secs on, 5 off (allows time to chalk up), x 7. Hope that helps.
Thanks mate, that's helpful
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Almost surely neural. Inspiring logs btw, thanks for posting these
Cheers man, nerves are quite amazing. Glad you like my posts.
Assume your progress on the Furnace route could just be getting back to your "base level" again through actually doing some climbing, plus a bit of recruitment?
Yep, it’s just getting better at climbing by doing it. It’s the pace of improvement that’s amazing me and the timescale- it’s really not very long since I couldn’t do a 1b rockover and not long before that since I was getting out of bed by using my arms to swing my legs into position!
Purgatory.
Motherlode.
Firstly, I’m so jealous that you’re in the Red. I have such fond memories of those two crags- saw the biggest spider I’ve ever seen at Purgatory.
Secondly, watch you don’t spend your whole trip at just a few crags. There’s so many great spots and you can get between loads from the same “parking lots”. One of my fondest memories of my two trips is the day we did ten routes at ten different crags. My biggest regret is going to the ‘lode too much and putting too much energy into redpointing there.
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Cheers Tom
66.2kg
M- nul
T- Griff’s soaked with condensation and seepage so went to Rubicon; unconvincing session on bigger belly, although can do the Johnny G move pretty much every go now..
Manchester Depot for a couple of hours comp prep for next week - bunch of V5 os and one V7
W- nul
T- Strength Asylum superset 1 armers/DL - 8 sets up to a couple of smooth singles at 200 - couldn’t get 215 off the floor - solid single 1 armers +2.5kg feeling tired
Stoke AW bulk middle grade comp prep - not really sparking
F- nul
S- Stoke AW evening session - handed in the “history of bouldering” timeline poster that boy and I had fun making for NIBAS 3 - bulk mid grade problems; climbing better than earlier in the weak and did a couple of V7s quickly..
S- Alton remembrance service; last minute panic trying to figure out how to wear gongs on a suit, as first Remembrance Day out of uniform.. Boy did Cub Scout procession/wreath laying
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S- Stoke AW evening session - handed in the “history of bouldering” timeline poster that boy and I had fun making for NIBAS 3 - bulk mid grade problems; climbing better than earlier in the weak and did a couple of V7s quickly..
:bow:
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Yes I am keen for grit bouldering starting tomoorrw in fact.
where? I'll be out doing the bouldering equivalent of top roping V Diff
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Heading out tennish to Froggatt to try Hot Toddy with Paul Reeve
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S- Stoke AW evening session - handed in the “history of bouldering” timeline poster that boy and I had fun making for NIBAS 3 - bulk mid grade problems; climbing better than earlier in the weak and did a couple of V7s quickly..
:bow:
:slap:
Fucksake - Freudian slip it’s been a weak week..
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Heading out tennish to Froggatt to try Hot Toddy with Paul Reeve
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2iDpcVGo66E
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I thought that was shark for a moment, was just about to write "SLACK!!! ...you c**t." ;)
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Sounds like Dolly :)
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Firstly, I’m so jealous that you’re in the Red. I have such fond memories of those two crags- saw the biggest spider I’ve ever seen at Purgatory.
FFS!!! <scratches that one off the list> >:(
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Heading out tennish to Froggatt to try Hot Toddy with Paul Reeve
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2iDpcVGo66E
Looks like he was going for the lip. I thought Hot Toddy went left there?
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Firstly, I’m so jealous that you’re in the Red. I have such fond memories of those two crags- saw the biggest spider I’ve ever seen at Purgatory.
FFS!!! <scratches that one off the list> >:(
:lol: No-one really talks about spiders in the Red. I think they’ve largely cleared off by the autumn (The big fucker I saw was apparently a “brown recluse” so there’s a clue in the name) but it’s probably crawling in the summer when no one in their right mind goes climbing.
What they do talk about is the feared “Copperhead” snakes though. I saw only one, which slithered about 50cm in front of me as I was immobilised mid-bowel movement. :ohmy: I’m the typical Brit who naïvely thinks that thrashing through dense undergrowth in foreign countries to find a secluded toilet spot is sensible. :oops: That’s also how I found out that I’m immune to poison ivy.
In a nicer story I also found an amazingly-patterned turtle/ tortoise in similar circumstances.
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In a nicer story I also found an amazingly-patterned turtle/ tortoise in similar circumstances.
Was its head poking out?
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I don't mind terminally lethal death snakes nearly as much as completely harmless but fucking enormous spiders *SHUDDER**
* literally shudder - one time when I saw a "completely harmless" rain spider scuttling up the side of the shower block at Rocklands, I was actually shaking with fear at the sight of it, and ended up washing bollock-naked at the cold tap in the middle of the campsite.
@Bradders - if you saw some sweaty shirtless dude with overly baggy tracksuit bottoms falling off the wood circuit and shaking a bit (this time from a rather excellent macchiato), then HI.
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shaking a bit (this time from a rather excellent macchiato)
Hey Fiend, I don't want to piss in your coffee, but to my knowledge it's quite impossible to shake from a macchiato, because milk kind of "absorbs" caffeine, making it not digestible. In fact, having some milk in your coffee is just a way to make it less caffeine-strong.
That's also why I can digest more easily a bucket of tripes than a macchiato or a cappuccino.
Not that it ever occurred to me to have a macchiato rather than a coffee.
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Definitely not the case for me, even when I had a fully functional digestion!!
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I inadvertently erased last week's training.
Anyway it was fingers on Monday (BM 10x5) with good progress on ring monos.
Rest on Tuesday.
Weights of various kinds and intensity of suffering on Wednesday and Thursday. Mix of static and dynamic.
Rest again on Friday.
Some more weights on Saturday. Static and dynamic press ups, Farmer's 30/30 x10.
A wonderful session of weights and pull ups on Sunday: good mornings and pull ups (5x5); high pulls and pull ups (5x5); cleans and pull ups (5x5).
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Heading out tennish to Froggatt to try Hot Toddy with Paul Reeve
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2iDpcVGo66E
Looks like he was going for the lip. I thought Hot Toddy went left there?
Yeah duff beta / sequence to go straight up there. Go out to the flake under the roof, right heel on, bring right hand to the arête type feature where it meets the roof. Flick left out to arête, foot shuffle shenanigans and end up with double heels before blasting up. Tough at 7a 🤯
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M -
T - Depot. Warmed up. Ben was there, as was N Dogg (36Chambers) and a few others. Ben wondered how this session would be written up for Power Club. We warmed ourselves, though not really enough. Went to the 30 board and had an enjoyable sesh. Managed one of the things that Ben had shown me last week - it was all in the foot placement choice; couldn't remember the other. Started to put together a rising traverse which will hopefully go next session. There was decent psyche with lots of messing about on the board. As we warmed down, Ben declared that I was the greatest climber that he'd ever known, as well as a really fantastic person and a terrific shag.
W - Guidebook meeting at the pub.
T -
F -
S - Wife was at a wedding so took the nipper to Brimham. Lots of stuff wet so we took refuge under Joker's Wall. 36C, Louise, and Molly were there as well and were really good with Jess. This allowed me to do a few warm ups and then do Joker's Wall Traverse, which went easily enough with the right beta, if not slightly shambolicly towards the end.
Jess loves a playpark and to be outside. We've had a couple of trips to the crag, but she often feels unsure about the crag environment and people that she doesn't know at first. After she'd had her lunch and then a little cry and a cuddle (at which point I felt like a terrible father) she really cheered up and loved scampering around and being played with. It's an objective of mine to get her to enjoy trips out to the crag. I'm hoping that more exposure and familiarisation will help get over that initial uncertainty in a new environment. Any tips welcomed.
S -
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How old is Jess Will? I've got a 14 month old and looking forward to this kind of fun.
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Im more worried by what MrsTT would say if ours (2 1/2) came back with a fresh bump/scrape etc... than anything actually happening to him... he came back from Wilton fest the summer before last with a load of midge bites on him and that got me in a load of trouble :)
Its a tricky one with the nipper - as ideally venues need to be within 45 min (so they dont get too crotchety in the car) - have a fairly flat, enclosed and safe (glass free) area where there are decent problems and not too far a walk from the car (quarrys would be ideal apart from the glass/rubbish that seems to be there). Ours is pretty well behaved - but quite capable of getting himself into trouble!
14mth is a good age - as they are not too mobile then! and readily entertained... We have a constant stream of 'whats that noise', 'whys that' and 'I WANT it'... :) Its brilliant though...
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Thank you. Sounds like the anti-Castle. Totally what I am looking for. 40° MB not a deal breaker as they have the lower angle circuit and symmetry boards.
Glad I could recommend it! And honestly, I also love the walls where I can go and do interesting new problems every week. But Blocfit is going to be a phenomenal resource for training.
Also in location/style it reminds me a bit of the original Arch under the London Bridge railway arches, so I come over all sentimental.
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Will, a small pop up tent goes a long way to making trips to the crag/beach/forest less intimidating
I've used the sunsense junior pop up beach tent for the last 17 years (on 2nd one now)
you can fill the pockets with sand to stop it blowing away - small bouldering mat fits inside and makes a comfortable bed - folds up small enough to fit inside bouldering mat
the kids have slept in them as babies, my wife has used them as changing rooms on the beach and we've sheltered from thunderstorms in them
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...Joker's Wall Traverse, which went easily enough with the right beta, if not slightly shambolicly towards the end.
I've yet to see it done any other way.
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Thanks for the tips. I've sometimes thought about having a thread going with crag and problem recommendations for those with child, but what's right for a 6 month old won't be right for and 18 month old or a 3 year old. And then there's each individual child's personalities and quirks.
Jess is a year and 6 months old now. We actually have a beach tent (though I expect it will give no protection from rain; it's a cheap Aldi job) so will try that. The main hurdle is probably convincing my wife (non-climber) that it will be a fun family activity to sit at a crag and watch Daddy climb. This is going to be more suited to a project, rather than problems that might go quickly to reduce moving around.
For us, a venue which is an hour from the house works well as she tends to sleep for an hour at 10:30/11, so this can be done on the way to the crag. She'll have a sleep on the way home, and it's best to be home for half four for dinner time. So that gives a few hours at the crag.
Almscliff (nothing I really want to do there), some bits of Caley, Brimham, Ilkley (yuck), Baildon (glass and dog turds notwithstanding), Widdop are obvious choices.
Any more suggestions?
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Almscliff (nothing I really want to do there), some bits of Caley, Brimham
Any more suggestions?
I imagine there's enough at just those crags to keep you more than occupied for the next year or so, particularly if you would rather be in one spot and project stuff.
It sounds like what you need is a piece of rock that has plenty to go at, such as hard projects, link ups, eliminates, all in one easily accessible place. If only there existed some sort of roof in Yorkshire that contained such potential. Some sort of walled roof. Some sort of demonic walled roof...
I've been told a certain Stu's Roof is a pretty dece problem for getting stuck into. Other areas with plenty of scope for eliminates and fun are To Me To You/Dolphin wall area. (Whitehouses would have been a good option #sadface.)
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Almscliff (nothing I really want to do there), some bits of Caley, Brimham
Any more suggestions?
It sounds like what you need is a piece of rock that has plenty to go at, such as hard projects, link ups, eliminates, all in one easily accessible place. If only there existed some sort of roof in Yorkshire that contained such potential. Some sort of walled roof. Some sort of demonic walled roof...
I might just give up climbing now...
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I love that you’re acting like fitting a scaled-down version of climbing ambitions around fatherhood is a new subject for this forum Will. Have you read UKB before? ;)
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Almscliff (nothing I really want to do there), some bits of Caley, Brimham, Ilkley (yuck), Baildon (glass and dog turds notwithstanding), Widdop are obvious choices.
Any more suggestions?
I would sell my both kids and bathe in dog turds to have Almscliff or Brimham within 2 hours of my house, and here you are dismissing them like unloved Pot Noodle flavours...
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I love Almscliff, but I've loved it for 11 years now. It's a deceptively small crag. It's easy to run out of good stuff to do there after this long as a local (and it's a crag best saved for days when everything else is wet).
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Adel Crag?
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Adel Crag?
I'm afraid I've already done Adel Crag's 3 star King Line.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=220961
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That was pre-child. New life, new tick.
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I love Almscliff, but I've loved it for 11 years now. It's a deceptively small crag. It's easy to run out of good stuff to do there after this long as a local (and it's a crag best saved for days when everything else is wet).
You've still got:
- Streaky's traverse
- Stu's roof / Stu's left hand
- Slopey traverse
- Top Cat traverse
- The Horror
- South Cave traverse / eliminate
- Jess' Roof
- Dolphin Belly into DWR
- The Bulb
- Little Greeny
All of which are decent and you could do
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How has Will not even done Little Greeny, it's one of the best lower grade problems at the cliff, amazing movement!
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I love Almscliff, but I've loved it for 11 years now. It's a deceptively small crag. It's easy to run out of good stuff to do there after this long as a local (and it's a crag best saved for days when everything else is wet).
Back around Will. I’m with Yossarian here - you don’t know how privelidged you are to have that on your doorstep.
And Caley.
And x y z other crags in the area....
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Slopey traverse is the very definition of what's shit about grit.. but some of those others are well good.
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Hunters stones or Snowden? The base of the Tantric boulder has a lovely lawn. I met a dad-bub team up at roundhill once too and high crags is good for a picnic around that end though a bit further. That Slopher thing would be worth it though. The other thing worth considering would be crags with enough loose blocks to build a nice sheltered drystone baby fank? #imwithwill
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I love Almscliff, but I've loved it for 11 years now. It's a deceptively small crag. It's easy to run out of good stuff to do there after this long as a local (and it's a crag best saved for days when everything else is wet).
You've still got:
- Streaky's traverse
- Stu's roof / Stu's left hand
- Slopey traverse
- Top Cat traverse
- The Horror
- South Cave traverse / eliminate
- Jess' Roof
- Dolphin Belly into DWR
- The Bulb
- Little Greeny
All of which are decent and you could do
:lol:
Exactly 50% of those are traverses or eliminates. Ergo: shite. I mean, Streaky's, really?!
Yes, yes. I'll do/try them at some point when circumstances dictate but I'll not waste my time on shite if there are other possibilities.
There's a picture in the green book of Adi and his daughter when she was a baby at Roundhill, so that must work. It's a long drive from mine though which sort of scuppers it. And the walk in to High Crags with a bairn would be a complete fucker!
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It sounds like what you need is a piece of rock that has plenty to go at, such as hard projects, link ups, eliminates, all in one easily accessible place. If only there existed some sort of roof in Yorkshire that contained such potential. Some sort of walled roof. Some sort of demonic walled roof
What you describe exists and it's called a home board.
Build a good home board that suits your needs and tastes and rock deprivation will no longer be a problem.
Or at least this is what happened to me.
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It sounds like what you need is a piece of rock that has plenty to go at, such as hard projects, link ups, eliminates, all in one easily accessible place. If only there existed some sort of roof in Yorkshire that contained such potential. Some sort of walled roof. Some sort of demonic walled roof
What you describe exists and it's called a home board.
Build a good home board that suits your needs and tastes and rock deprivation will no longer be a problem.
Or at least this is what happened to me.
He's already got one! But I bet he barely uses it. I think he's a lost cause. #sorryWill
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Agreed. Will is like Shark. You try and tell him how to improve/ what to go at but he know's best. #lostcause #couldntgetitupforme
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:lol:
Exactly 50% of those are traverses or eliminates. Ergo: shite. I mean, Streaky's, really?!
Yes, yes. I'll do/try them at some point when circumstances dictate but I'll not waste my time on shite if there are other possibilities.
Have you done Chiasmata Will?
Don't let the DWR fan boyz lure you in when you've one of the best lines in Yorkshire still to go at.
I think I'm right in saying you've not done Hunter's Roof? Or Red Baron Roof? There's loads of project level stuff for you at Brimham that'd be good to just go and sit under; To Me To You, The Fonz/Ian's Trav and Pinky are the main ones that spring to mind. There's always something to do at Earl if you want to keep it a little more vertical. Granted these are all quite hard but isn't that the point?
Or you could get psyched for your home board (man I'm jealous) and wait for all this to blow over.
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:lol:
Exactly 50% of those are traverses or eliminates. Ergo: shite. I mean, Streaky's, really?!
Yes, yes. I'll do/try them at some point when circumstances dictate but I'll not waste my time on shite if there are other possibilities.
Have you done Chiasmata Will?
I'd like to see him carry all the necessary pads along with toddler gear, and possibly even Jess, to go and try that one :)
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Agreed. Will is like Shark. You try and tell him how to improve/ what to go at but he know's best. #lostcause #couldntgetitupforme
I'll just pop this here :whistle:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=677
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I'd like to see him carry all the necessary pads along with toddler gear, and possibly even Jess, to go and try that one :)
Sorry, was under the impression Will had friends :lol:
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I'd like to see him carry all the necessary pads along with toddler gear, and possibly even Jess, to go and try that one :)
Sorry, was under the impression Will had friends :lol:
You've met him right?
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Agreed. Will is like Shark. You try and tell him how to improve/ what to go at but he know's best.
I don’t think that’s fair.
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About me, not Will that is
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You've met him right?
Hmm, fair enough. Better get psyched on the board then Will.
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I seem to remember that before joining power club Will was bemoaning the frequent references to Griffs etc... taking it off topic....
🤔
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Weight: 87.2 - 87.6kg
STG: 147, 7ANYTHING, weight down to 85kg
MTG: 7anything
LTG: 8something
M: Busy / slightly stressful evening at the wall. Possibly too much crimping.
T: Yoga / stretching. Palms flat on floor - yay!
W:
T: Started fingerboard session but joints felt really achy. Fingers seem to twist quite a lot when doing 4 fingers open, so maybe time to mix in some other grips. Ended up doing kettbell shoulder press, dynamic press-ups and some ab rolls.
F / S / S: Rested the remainder of the week.
Felt a bit fucked at the end of the previous week, so some rest was probably the best option. Weight ended up dropping to the closest its been to original target weight of 85kg, and I think 80kg is a better target for various reasons. Though progress has slowed to the extent that this will probably carry over into next year.
Finally trying to make time to clear garage and plan stage one of board construction. There should be room in the initial space for something 16ft wide, with 2180 ceiling height. As there is another space for something less steep, I think 45deg is probably the way to go.
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Agreed. Will is like Shark. You try and tell him how to improve/ what to go at but he know's best. #lostcause #couldntgetitupforme
I'll just pop this here :whistle:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=677
I think this is a smart approach, he can just change the title by one year until he's dead.
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Felt a bit fucked at the end of the previous week, so some rest was probably the best option. Weight ended up dropping to the closest its been to original target weight of 85kg, and I think 80kg is a better target for various reasons. Though progress has slowed to the extent that this will probably carry over into next year.
Have you been going at it hard for a few weeks on the training front? Possibly time for a deload week to let the training load take effect and reduce the risk of an injury?
Careful not to Caldwell yourself during any board construction!
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Exactly that. My approach has been to base it around a month of wall membership, which usually involves cramming in some sessions before it runs out, and then taking a week or so to take it easier / try new places / go outside before stumping up again. But I’ve been doing more training at home plus daughter is now in wall comp squad to we’re there twice a week whether I like it or not. But now I’ve sorted the yoga / stretch stuff into a regular thing, I think I’ve figured out how to maintain the drive to get something done whilst my arms recover.
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I seem to remember that before joining power club Will was bemoaning the frequent references to Griffs etc... taking it off topic....
🤔
Fake news. I would never complain about PC going off topic. PC is at its best when off topic.
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Will
The place to go is the boulder at Clifton moor York. While it’s not real rock, there is a kids playground, a nature trail, mini mountain bike trail and the main East coast railway line.
I took my grandson there, he allowed me help him climb so I could take a picture. He then went on the swings etc, but when he saw the trains go past every few minutes. He was mesmerised, we were only allowed to leave due to hunger and pending darkness.
So a bit of negotiation “if you sit and play nicely while daddy climbs we can then go and watch the trains”
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That sounds all very well and good, Steve, but is there a good density of shit eliminates and arse-scraping traverses to go at?
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I reckon that will be the case as Swanny was involved in the design of it.