UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: shurt on November 02, 2018, 08:57:19 am
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I'm hoping to go and try this again soon and wanted to ask for some better beta.
The vids I've seen of people doing it make the move up to the second sloper look really relaxed. I've only managed that move once and it was a big slap with potential day ending skin consequences.
I had my right foot out on the areas.
Any help gratefully received.
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I don't have a video, or even remember my sequence; however, I do have a LOT of photographs of when I was doing/did it - can send them over if that'd help?
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Cheers Rob. I've pm'd you.
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This is one I'd really like to do, such an amazing line!
Yet every time I get on it I spend about an hour moaning about the amount it destroys your skin!
Let me know if you get any magic beta. It would be much appreciated!
Good Luck
Macca
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Both this and Devon Sent are absolutely stellar lines with great movement but the holds are the sharpest of the sharp on Dartmoor granite. Have been shutdown similarly Macca. Dare I say the minginess of the holds takes a lot the inspiration, to climb it, away?
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This is an interesting angle and prob best vid I found...
https://youtu.be/eVE0JaG9iZI
Where's Tom Rainbow? He's done it, there's video evidence!!
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The best beta I can offer you is to do a funky dance when you get to the top.
Oh...and it's not sharp, Grant and Macca are just softies.
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I didn't think it was that sharp either. From what I remember, from the shit left hand side pull and left foot on good hold, bump right hand to decent thing on arete, which you can turn a bit and almost undercut. Then left foot through to decent little bump, and then hard move to get left hand on rubbish crimp on arete. Think I bumped left hand to a rubbish intermediate on the way. I then got my right up to an OK crystal near the left, right foot up and go for the crack.
Taping a tip or 2 seemed to work too.
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I didn't think it was that sharp either.
Taping a tip or 2 seemed to work too.
:lol:
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The best beta I can offer you is to do a funky dance when you get to the top.
Oh...and it's not sharp, Grant and Macca are just softies.
. you knows it! :spank:
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The best beta I can offer you is to do a funky dance when you get to the top.
Oh...and it's not sharp, Grant and Macca are just softies.
"Funky dance" I bet that lot on strictly are shitting themselves!
Can't speak for Grant but I'm definitely on the soft side of firm!
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Haha fair point. I suppose I meant not sharo by dartmoor standards. Where taping tips is pretty standard!
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Haha fair point. I suppose I meant not sharo by dartmoor standards. Where taping tips is pretty standard!
I never tape my tips that’s for softies! :tease:
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Evidently, the way to do Nether Edge is to not accept it's sharp...isn't that right Ged?
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I've only ever tried NE after knackering myself on DS, but it certainly felt fucking sharp then...
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I've only ever tried NE after knackering myself on DS, but it certainly felt fucking sharp then...
[/quofte]
My thoughts excately! Although I'm far too shit to go near Devonsent
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The best beta I can offer you is to do a funky dance when you get to the top.
The secrets of the Woods will die with this Jedi...
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It's all in the mind. I used to hang naked upside down from the neighbourimg tree, quietly whispering "it's all made of glass, we are all made of glass".
Try that.
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Thanks for the tip. I guess anything goes down in Devon so will give it a bash
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The best beta I can offer you is to do a funky dance when you get to the top.
The secrets of the Woods will die with this Jedi...
I'm going to stick around a while yet!
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Oh yes...use the force!