UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: mrjonathanr on October 14, 2018, 03:51:31 pm
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After something for smearing on grit as my Instinct VSR and slipper are stubbornly resisting losing tension on the toe, which is great, but not on really smeary stuff.
Moccasym seems good but how much do they stretch out? Normal shoe is 8.5, size 7 Moc is tight, 6.5 painful, which to go for? (Instincts are 41) Thanks in advance.
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Your shoe size sounds similar to mine JR.
I used to wear Moccasyms, but never quite managed to cram my feet into the 6.5s. The 7s always ended up stretching too much.
I now fit all my new shoes wearing veg bags on my feet, and can get into the 6.5, which is the one I'd go for. The bags really allow the rest of the shoe to move around your feet once you've got them on. Worth trying :yes:
DT.
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Do you need to cook the veg first? :-\
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Do you need to cook the veg first? :-\
Meat bags don't work inside 5:10's...
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Seriously though, do Moccasyms stretch a bit more than anasazis? I think the latter are rubbish but I’m definitely a size 7 in them. Looks like Mocs may give more?
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Are not Mocs real leather. If they are the same as they used to be they stretch a fair bit.
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Had a few pairs of these over the years, always taken a 6.5. For reference I've also got 8.5 dragons and 7 in anazasi whites (though the latter are bloody tight). 7.5 street shoes. I'd always go slightly tight with moccs, they stretch loads, mine are always pretty baggy by the end of their life.
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You want half a size down from Anasazis in my experience. They’re softer, are made of real suede and are unlined so stretch loads. They also stretch for longer than Anasazis.
I’m an 8.5 in Anasazis- I did 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell (notorious for people who attempt it in their normal climbing shoes losing toenails and dropping out due to cramp) in broken-in size 8.5 Moccs with no problem. Size 8 Moccs are what I used to wear to get stuff done on grit.
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They stretch about a full size in my experience, if they start snug but not painful they turn into carpet slippers.
I wear 9.5 moccs for long enduro.sessions (not quite as long as cheque) but could certainly squeeze into 9s and possibly 8.5s for performance. For reference, 9.5 Blancos or VCRs and 43 Instinct VSRs are all tight/painful: strictly for bouldering or short sport routes.
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Thanks for all the replies. sounds like they need to be pretty tight at first, old school tight style.
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I got them in a UK 6 (I'm an 8 in trainers and about EU40.5 in instinct VS) and found them to be perfect, but I needed plastic bags to get them on the first couple of times. About 3 months of regular use, they're at the point now where they can be worn for hours on end but the heels have become a bit too soft. They're still really comfy overall without much loss in performance - in fact, they also seem to get far better on slabs over time like a fine wine ;)
They're an absolute perfect grit smearing shoe IMO, even better than the old boreal Ninjas :ninja:
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That’s exactly what I want them for, have got a pair now of 6.5 and take 41 in Instincts so sized about the same. Cheers, will see how grit slabs feel in a month or two.