UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: Mugabe251 on October 04, 2018, 08:33:48 pm
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Had a session on Ben's Wall at Curbar the other day. Went pretty well, however it didn't go. Touched the big pocket by means of a dyno but alas got no further.
Two questions:
1) Do I have to start at the crack, or is it immaterial? I managed to reach the crux dyno using what appears to be the same beta on Mr Kingsnorth's video (i.e. slopey undercling next to crack with R hand, gain pocket as sidepull with L hand, feet up, L hand switch to undercling, feet higher, stretch/dyno to big pocket) but I noticed it's totally different to Willackers method I found on vimeo.
2) How (if possible) can a shortarse like myself do it static?
Thanks in advance :kiss2:
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The original method by Ben Moon was a dyno from the crack, going with left hand. It's fairly easy to get the height but much harder to snag the pocket. At 5'8" I find I can do it via this method less often than I can Great White, so at 7c it feels high in the grade to me.
The 'nu-skool' method going with right hand from left hand pinch/undercut I reckon is about 7a+/7b (for someone my height). A bit fiddlier getting into position but snagging the pocket is almost a formality. Bransby has done this completely static with right foot cammed in the crack.
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:lol:
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Don't listen to Johnny Brown, the man doesn't realise how good he is at climbing grit.
The 'nu-skool' method is not 7a+/7b. It's still hard. Not as hard as using a bad sequence but not 7a+/7b.
The fact that Ben can do it static is neither here nor there cos he too is a freak of nature.
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Ah ha, 7B seemed right since the set-up for the crux pop felt really secure and the holds are great especially the undercling/pinch ting. Didn't think I could punt my way up 7C, at least not without cheating :lol: . Cheers Johnny!
Just read your post now Scouse and now more confused than ever...
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What I'm saying is, it's harder than 7b unless someone's chipped it recently
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Ive not done it so it’s obvs harder than 7B :D
Willackers vids are great if you are quite tall, with a +8 inch ape index and good at dyno’s ;) (hi Will :) )
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No way its 7B
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No way its 7B
Ummm...
Is that:
No way is it 7B!
Or:
There’s no way that it’s even 7B.
Or:
No way! It’s 7B.
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It’s chequers 7B
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It’s chequers 7B
Cheers, ya bassard.
Now I have an image of Alex dancing up to a podium, to ABBA, and announcing “No way its 7B”.
Which wouldn’t be too bad, if it weren’t for the twin set, pearls and heels he’s wearing...
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Can I get this right...the way Ted is trying it here is the “now ay its 7B” method yeah?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=5Ak1NdEJdDc
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For my 2p's worth, I think this way is still as hard as West Side Story, easy to get close but another story to get matched in the top pocket. Haven't tried it the Hard Grit Way.
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Ooh A contentious graded problem to compare against Ted! With many saying WSS is 7C after the pebble loss...
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Ha, you beat me the west side comparison. It not even in the same ball park, at least a full grade easier than west side has ever been, even with the old crimp-the-pebble-that's-not-there-any-more sequence.
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Well I think it's harder than WSS by a notable margin... which just goes to show that I've been dancing to ABBA too much or something
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Harder than the other Ben's Wall at the Stride by a country mile!