UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: tomtom on July 15, 2018, 06:37:46 pm
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Afternoon....
Mon: Over to Anston on the way to work. Not an especially good visit. Warmed up fine - and set to work on Alpha. After about 30 min I tweaked something in my LH middle finger pulling down on those two pockets. Not a twang - a tweak deep near the base of the finger. Grr. Carried on for 5-10 min doing different moves then decided to stop.
Tu: Finger felt alright ish.. hard to tell... a bit twingy... Decided to do some core exercises for the first time in ages. Planks and side planks/threading the needle.
We: Depot. Wanted to test the finger in a controlled environment or “rehab club” as one of the regulars described what climbing walls were :D Thankfully finger felt OK - even on crimpy things, and for some reason I decided to open my account on the 50. It’s hard - couldn’t really do anything on there just fighting to keep my feet on. Still - its working a weakness of mine - so figured some sessions on it working up big hold things trying to splodge my feet on little edges would be good for me.
Th: Ached.
Fri: Repeat Weds. Except went straight onto the 50 after warming up. Better - got up a couple of things and started working some others. Trashed after 25 min!!!!! (Taking 2 min rests between attempts). DId some work and had a coffee - went back and was still trashed. A new record for me I think! Went and did a couple of circuits (Fuck - I am getting old) partly to get some mileage and also to make it feel like I was getting some value for my money!
Sa: Both sets of the boys grandparents were up for a second second birthday. Really nice day - relaxed meal in a cool (temp) restaurant followed by an hour or so in the park. Boy was excited though and woke up at 1am demanding to play with Grandpa (though tempting we didn’t oblige..)
Su: Packed off the grandparents and snuck out to Helsby. Pleasure to meet up with Fatneck and Laura up there - had a good session ticking some of the harder problems for me fairly readily - and even managed a new one (6B-6C with nice moves). Feel suitably drained now.
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Thanks TT
Missed last week's KK as on holidays but normal service from now.
Goal: Advanced Training
M-Kettlebells
T-16kg Kettlebells, hollow body, very poor fingerboard session - up to +28kgs for 5s on the BM1k smalls. The benchmark I am after is 3x +40kg for 10s.
W-The littlest had me up half the night with his illness
T-So tired I DNA my Thursday night session
F-Totally wrecked
S-Dug deep and got my kettlebells done, 24kg swings now but only 16kg get ups (goal is 32kgs for both). Also hollow bodies and stretching and shoulder mobility routine.
S-Got to Griffs for 7:30am - a local wad was packing up for the day (an early start that's the secret guys) - and after much warming up made some decent progress on Bovine. No cigar but next time etc. Once tired, went over to beginners and retro flashed Swing and Man of Steel. That's the first time I've actually retro flashed MoS so bodes well for AT. Later some kettlebell practice up to 24kg get ups.
Next steps:
1. carry on enjoying it
2. get finger strength back to 40kg standard
3. AT
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Power Club
Mon - boxing bag.
Tue - rest.
Wed - light complex.
Thu - muscle snatch, power clean, bentover row complex. Abs, boxing bag.
Fri - rest.
Sat - weights, static session: press, bicep curls, snatch pulls, 6 reps with 10" pause mid range, x3.
Sun - system lock offs, 6x6. 27 degrees at the wall with a dehumidifier and an air conditioner on at full power for a couple of hours prior to the session. Boxing bag. I. Was. Fast.
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Weight 11.2 Average 156.5 down 0.2lbs
M.PM Physio. Mainly work on shoulders. Less painful than usual. Louise seemed please with my progress - posture, alignment etc
T. AM Xbrook. Nai there - even grumpier than usual. Don't think my arrival with the dogs helped. Wasn't feeling it. Only managed two decent goes on Moffatrocity linking start to going for intermediate on JR which was below par
W.Down to Thor’s Cave to try Thormans. Thought it would be jug city. Instead encountered powerful moves off pockets and slots. Nightmare. Had two dogging goes and sacked it off. Didn’t suit Nicks fat fingers either. Left early
T. PM Went to Foundry to try out Instinct Lace Ups. Ended up having a short impromptu inaugural Moonboard session. Nothing harder than 6A+
F.AM Cornice. Not especially keen but the sensible place to go at the moment to escape the heat. About 20 people down there! Reminded how dusty and scuzzy it is. Dogged up Clarion Call slowly while nai and partner dicked about linking MM into it. Then failed to top rope it. Great. Jug Jockey and Taylor Made were occupied. Considered just belaying but in the end joined Nick on Cry of Despair which I did 23 years ago. Really butch but very good. Not used to this angle lately so vive le difference. About 4 goes up. Sussed out a sequence in the end but didn't get through the first crux from the ground but confident I will next time
S.
S.AM Anston with Ben. Tried Soul Crusher - mainly third move. In end did it and climbed through to the end. Then failed on moves one and two. New instinct lace ups worked well on it
Keep thinking I should have a long break but as there is nothing else interesting going on with my life Ill probably just keep heading out and playing it by ear. Cant be bothered to do any indoor training. Main positives from week are getting the instincts and dragging my arse away from the Tor.
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Two weeks off due to holiday. Will spare you a day by day breakdown of each day in Ceuse because it will just depress me that I'm back at work! Suffice to say its a truly amazing crag.
Did loads of ticking of 7a-b and some classic 7b+s, one of which felt like solid 7c (Changement de Look). Highlights included Blocage Violent, Cent Patates, Changement, Angel Dust, Un Pont Sur L'infini and Dietic Line. Loads of others too. Psyched to go back for a longer period of time and soak the place up. Superb. Walk in isn't that bad once you have your kit stashed up there, and whoever it was that recommended walking poles, I owe you a pint; knee basically pain free after the first day as my legs got stronger.
Hopefully back on the lime Thursday and weekend after giving me skin and fingers a few days off.
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M - life
T - Planned mileage day but partner pulled out first thing, got into a grump. Huffed around, didn't want to do too much ahead of Wed so decided to go X for an hour. Handed the usual spanking. Simon turned up to receive a volley of negativity, offered up some useful beta which was tempting to try but I was already running over and skin already sore so left him to it.
W - Cornice - Managed Succubus 2nd proper attempt of the day, maybe if I'd done an actual warmup beforehand then worked the roof moves properly on the equipping go I'd have done it first go, but I never learn...
Th
F - Cornice. Rain! With the tops of most of the warm ups wet, opted for Martial Call to start with, just the thing when it suddently got very busy with folk trying to get on Clarion, managed to get in Simon's way and leave him hanging off a bolt while I snaked around above.
Got on Zippy's Direct Finish to Old Man River. Expected it to be fairly straightforward having looked at the holds coming down from Naive previously but it's actually techy and pumpy, had three redpoints that all ended quite high.
SS rest. Felt battered, forearms tight and sore, shoulder stiff and creaky. Came to the conclusion that with performance dipping I should probably take a proper break and rest for a week. Right after I've been out on Monday....
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W.Down to Thor’s Cave to try Thormans. Thought it would be jug city. Instead encountered powerful moves off pockets and slots. Nightmare. Had two dogging goes and sacked it off.
It's hardly piss... I've also had 2 working goes on it. If you get the feet right it's only really got a couple of tricky moves. Get yo ass back on it, and have a go at Midgard serpent it's amazing.
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M:
T: Arch. New set of problems. Almost did a good green (V6-8) and did a few more moonboard problems
W:
T: Arch. New set of problems again, did a load of the V4 - 7 range then went and did a few sets on the circuit board in preparation for the weekend...
F:
S: Trowbarrow - Tried Vitruvian Man 7C briefly (almost did first move) and Pit Problem 7B (did all moves but crux move - close), too hot on that face. Did Ned's Problem 7B which had amazing moves after warming up on Freen Jump 6B+. Played around on Red wall before finishing by ticking Ramp Traverse 6C+.
Moughton Nab - First time sport climbing in over 2 years. Flashed Burly in Ribblesdale 6c before onsighting Slapping Beauty 7a
S: Giggleswick North, Hollywood Bowl - Warmed up bolt-to-bolting Jorjas Connection 7c but stripped it as didn't fancy the swings. Dogged up Sunset Boulevard 7c as my mate was working it but decided it was well out of my league - no stamina. Redpointed Before Sunset 7a+ after falling off the lower section a couple of times. Did a link-up (potential first ascent) of Sunset Boulevard into Before Sunset at roughly 6c+/7a calling it Sunset Stroll. Onsighted the poor 7a on the right, Second's Choice. Then onsighted the 6c+ on the left, Glasto 15.
Kilnsey - Flailed around on the bouldering like a punter for a bit - too tired for that, before giving Taking the Mick 7a+ an unsuccessful onsight burn - pumped out of my mind
M this week: Kilnsey - Bolt-to-bolted up WYSIWYG 7b+ to warm up before ticking it 2nd redpoint attempt, the moves on this are so good. Went and tried Smooth Torquer 7a+ and fell trying to clip the chains on my flash burn having screwed up the sequence lower down, nice whipper brought me a couple of metres above the floor. Did it 1st redpoint, a soft one for boulderers?
Really sick long weekend in Lancs/Yorks mostly sport climbing. Actually found it fun so may do some more this summer, power endurance is good so I'm able to power through bouldery routes. Stamina is non-existent however... Need to work on this before Mallorca in September
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Keep thinking I should have a long break but as there is nothing else interesting going on with my life Ill probably just keep heading out and playing it by ear. Cant be bothered to do any indoor training. Main positives from week are getting the instincts and dragging my arse away from the Tor.
Have a wad point. As a caving friend said "It's a shit hobby really but I've got all the gear now."
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Went and tried Smooth Torquer 7a+ and fell trying to clip the chains on my flash burn having screwed up the sequence lower down, nice whipper brought me a couple of metres above the floor. Did it 1st redpoint, a soft one for boulderers?
Depends if you get really pumped on the HVS bit after the boulder problem like I did :lol:
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Keep thinking I should have a long break but as there is nothing else interesting going on with my life Ill probably just keep heading out and playing it by ear. Cant be bothered to do any indoor training. Main positives from week are getting the instincts and dragging my arse away from the Tor.
Have a wad point. As a caving friend said "It's a shit hobby really but I've got all the gear now."
Don’t humour him :D sharks just Fishing for a shoe sponsor....
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Keep thinking I should have a long break but as there is nothing else interesting going on with my life Ill probably just keep heading out and playing it by ear. Cant be bothered to do any indoor training. Main positives from week are getting the instincts and dragging my arse away from the Tor.
Have a wad point. As a caving friend said "It's a shit hobby really but I've got all the gear now."
;D ;D ;D
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Coops - is your Mallorca trip for DWS or routes? If DWS just keep on with your power endurance they are all pretty short, like UK routes.
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Coops - is your Mallorca trip for DWS or routes? If DWS just keep on with your power endurance they are all pretty short, like UK routes.
Ah cheers, DWS. Unfortunately even 10-15m is a long way for me at the moment :lol:
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Have a wad point. As a caving friend said "It's a shit hobby really but I've got all the gear now."
As shit hobbies go, climbing is up there with the least worst in providing a fleeting distraction from the futility of existence.
Thank you climbing