UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: Alex-the-Alex on May 08, 2018, 08:36:53 am
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Returned to Glen Tarbert recently with the better weather and climbed the wall above Them Bones from the starting horn. I think it might be new as it seemed harder than the 6a given for Dan V's arete and avoids the arete most of the way. Has anyone been up there?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/41924528272/in/dateposted-public/
Cheers,
Alex
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Nice one, try posting in ScottishClimbs 2.0 on Facebook, someone on there will probably know if it's new or not.
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Richie B and I had a session over there a few years ago, climbing a few problems around the Them Bones and Dan V's arete area but, unhelpfully, i can't for the life of me remember what we did or where anything went.
Is Dan V's arete to your left in that pic? It might jog a memory...
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Yeah Dan vs arete is just to the left. I couldnt actually get up that from a direct start... But did do the slab to the left again, which felt closer to 5b than 6b?
This starts sitting on the same holds as them bones (blunt horn). Then goes up on edges to a slopey top out. Maybe 6c/+ from sitting and 6b from standing.
Sounds like its probs been done but il add it to the logbook and give it a name. It climbs well.
Cheers,
A.
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Nice one. Yeah, my memory hasn't been jogged at all. I seem to recall doing Dan's Arete and it being good, and we def did the slab to it's left, in this pic: https://www.flickr.com/photos/richiebetts/14227329643/in/photolist-nFdMqX. I seem to recall Rich describing it as being like the crux of a granite E5, but I wouldn't know! I'm sure we did something round the back of the block, but have no idea what. Useless!
It's a cool spot though, eh?
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Hmm I dont have a great number of granite E5s to compare it to either. It was harder than the VSs ive done. It looks like a more direct line in your pic. Think i chickened out right and joined Dans arete. The other side was a bit mossier but had some nice lines yeah. Then the block opposite is magnificent. But possibly impossible. I tried another slab further down too thats marked as a project. Looked easy peasy then wouldnt let me get off the ground.
It is a great spot. Especially for spring. Great rock and you get to paddle in a river to get there. About as close as Glen Nevis for me too. Just a shame it costs £16 quid on the ferry each time..
Did you visit the gneiss end btw? I havnt got round there yet.