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the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: 36chambers on October 02, 2017, 02:56:36 pm

Title: Slapstick 8A Brimham
Post by: 36chambers on October 02, 2017, 02:56:36 pm
Anyone got any non-reachy beta for this?

There's no chance I can reach the high holds off the large undercut and although there's a small possibility for me to reach them off the pocket, it looks like a pretty grim move. So I'm just wondering if it can be done using the mid height crimps instead and whether there's some sneaky footwork rather than just launching to the sloper.

cheers
Title: Re: Slapstick 8A Brimham
Post by: andy_e on October 02, 2017, 03:21:01 pm
Most people do a dirty reacharound with two fingers in the hole. Maybe three if you're lucky.
Title: Re: Slapstick 8A Brimham
Post by: 36chambers on October 05, 2017, 10:59:13 am
Most people do a dirty reacharound with two fingers in the hole. Maybe three if you're lucky.

Cheers. The problem is so much less enticing if that's the only way of doing it. Undercutting pockets is almost as bad an jamming.
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