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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: yetix on September 25, 2017, 04:36:49 pm

Title: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: yetix on September 25, 2017, 04:36:49 pm: Felt shattered this week with too many hours commuting for work but overall an okay week

STG: resolve finger issues (heading to the clinic for some Shockwave therapy next week, hopefully this will help!)
MTG: Captain Hook, Bovine, Electrical Storm
LTG: Brad Pit, and la Fuente (stand)

64.7kg

M: Rest
T: Depot Manchester, Another of the yellows ticked off and two more worked in two halfs - should go next session
W: Running - felt quite tired so avoided FB/conditioning
T: Depot Manchester, another yellow ticked off and a few more purples. campussing for 60 mins + some front levers. then quickly went round one room of reds
F: Rest
S: tried to climb at churnet but it was so humid!
S: some volume at churnet
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: T_B on September 25, 2017, 05:26:54 pm: M - Lunch Lattice Test. 107, 80 (75%), 56 (52%), 42 (39%), 31 (29%), 31 (29%), 24 (22%). Right ring finger not so keen by circuit #5.
T - Lunch run. PM rings. inc 8 x pulls, 5 x offset pull ups on both arms. Various pressing/core exercises. Back a bit tweaky.
W - Tired
T - AM Ran to work. PM. Remergence. Fell off at slopers getting toe up on BA'sD 5 or 6 times, best go got into left slot but too tired. Repeated Submergence with slightly different beta, close to doing Blind Fig (fell matching lip). Reasonable-ish conditions.
F - Lunch Autobelays. 10+ x 5+ - 6c, inc 4 x 6cs in a row with no rest. PM ran home.
S -
S - Tor. Fairly goppy. Still, managed to (finally) do Undercut-Sloper with Dave's foot beta. Felt significantly stronger than in May. Then did Cave Problem in a few goes (always stayed away from this in the past as convinced it was dodgy for your knee.. it's not, but you need a very good spot). So not a bad session all things considered.

Hamstring tweaked again running home on Fri pm. More rest required :'(
Not bad scores on Lattice (PB of 128 was back in May).
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: shark on September 25, 2017, 05:29:34 pm: 11.5-7
Rest week

M.
T. PM Physio. Pain :o

W.
T. AM Physio. Pain :o
F. PM Physio. Pain :o

S.

S.Noon. Anston on own. Warm but breezy - nice connies. Thought Id warm up in the Wave area. Got locked into Beretta 7A+. Thought Id be able to 'fire' off quickly as its meant to be soft. Climbed till tired and got closeish but no sendy. Thought I had a good sequence but looking at videos afterwards maybe should have used heel hooks from start instead of just throwing one in at the end of the traverse. Guess I'm starting at bottom of cycle again so shouldn't be too disappointed. Popped in to office on way home and did a set of 20/10's on systems board.

Decided to ‘treat’ myself to physio for rest week. Louise (AKA High Priestess of pain) seemed happy with my posture since last seeing her two months ago. Her work involves separating muscles that have stuck together, separating where they have stuck to bone and maneuvering them and limbs into better places. I am now an inch taller with an imperial bearing and shoulders like Michael Phelps - try not to be intimidated if you meet me...
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: Duma on September 25, 2017, 06:38:31 pm: Goals:
Fix shoulder(s)
More 8A's
8b

Body Audit: think I'm going to sign off the left shoulder. Annoyingly right shoulder has been feeling a bit unhappy since Thursday, will see how it goes this week.
Sleep: good.
70kg.

M:
T: TCA, reds. Rest of the set was up, so picked off a few more of the easier ones. Couple of trickier ones too, the 45 is 7Bish so happy with that.
W:
T: TCA, reds again, picking more off. 10 to go, but right shoulder tweaky after.
F:
S: Couple of hours in the pool with daughter.
S: redpoint with daughter, mostly just belaying but couple of 6's while she bouldered.

Decent couple of sessions at the wall, and good left shoulder seems pretty much better. Had daughter at weekend which wrote it off for training tho, so not enough done really.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: Nibile on September 25, 2017, 06:43:57 pm: Power Club

Mon - ab wheel; weights.
Tue - rest.
Wed - cleans up to 61 kg x 3, 4, 4, 3. Dumbbell complex x 2.
Thu - boxing bag.
Fri - rest.
Sat - BM, front2, mid2 and monos. Not bad at all. Dumbbell complex.
Sun - board. Not sparky but not bad. Mind elsewhere.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: Coops_13 on September 25, 2017, 06:52:12 pm: STG: Train
MTG: 7C

M:
T: Indoors - Good session, did a couple of low 7s (I'm shit indoors) :2thumbsup:
W: Indoors - Volume/PE problems
T:
F:
S: Rolling Gate/Rylstone - A bit wet. Lots of walking while waiting for things to dry. Did Poetry in Motion 6A, nice highball. Did Two Left Feet at end of the day 7B going on soft 7A
S: Brimham. Did Anchor first up, don't know why the video quality is poor:
https://vimeo.com/235385389
Tried Ripple Effect, should go when cold. Conditions were poor... Almost did Black Chipper Arete. Knackered me so went home.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: 36chambers on September 25, 2017, 07:11:49 pm: M:
T: Hunter's stones. Climbed Hunter's Roof 7C on the quick. Had a look at X Wall but it was pretty filthy.
W:
T: Indoors. 50 board is back in season. Climbed a recent project which was really satisfying. Also felt stronger on left over problems from last winter. Trying to put together 6 hard problems to work over the coming weeks.
F:
S: Rolling Gate/Rylstone. Had a look at Cocoa Team Special 7C+ which is uninspiringly grim. Had a play on Hispaniola 8A+ and didn't feel miles off doing the moves (it's now on the list) and climbed Inner Reaches 7A/+ which is very good.
S: Brimham. Scoping out, and puntering on, various 7s which I've previously overlooked (Finally got round to doing Rachael's Box 7A+ and Happy Days 6B+). Very happy it's getting back into condition.

Feeling much stronger than I was this time last year, looking forward to getting on the harder stuff come winter.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: fried on September 25, 2017, 07:29:36 pm: Cheers Yetix

M/ Tu - Nothing
W - Indoors, tired but climbed O.K. don't remember much more than that.
Th/ Fr - Nothing

Sa - And the sun returns. Went to Rocher St. Germain to do the Blue circuit, haven't been here for years, remember it being really thuggy, obviously someone had moved the blocs 'cos it was all slabs this time. Did 15 or so problems, had great fun. Flashed my first ever 5C. Weather just beautiful. Still need to get better at rounded top outs though.

Su - Nowt

Far too much work at the moment, but trying to keep up with 2 sessions minimum.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: tomtom on September 25, 2017, 08:56:08 pm: Took the week off work. Meant to go away, but me and MrsTT just did jobs around the house (and relaxed every now and then) as TTjnr still went to Nursery for two days....

M: and relax... Saw two formations of geese flying over the house... just sayin...

<Gritstone klaxon>
T: Met up with Lagers, Dolly and Nai at Burbage S boulders for the season opening gritstone acclimatisation session. Took me nearly two hours to get to the blocs from Manchester (fume - I could have been at Carrock in that time..) and arrived to see more birdwatching than climbing going on... anyway - a class morning/afternoon puntering away on a mixture of 5's and 6's - guided by the hustlemeister Lagers and "I've not been climbing for two weeks and have mass muscle wastage"/"french start" Dolly. Nai even sported a Moon flat cap... It. Felt. Good.
</Gritstone klaxon>

W: Fucked. DOMs

Th: Still had DOMs. Not had two day DOMs for a while.. Decided to treat my body to some max hangs (er - thats deadhanging with as much weight as you can muster right?) and forced myself to use the (shudder) half crimp....

Fr: Rubiconandonandon... I wandered up the path by the mill and leats, wondering to myself (a) why there wasnt as much dog shit about as usual and (b) whether this would be my last session of the summer. In fact, I was quite looking forward to spending an hour there - performing really poorly, being pissed off with the place and then going home: content, warm and glowing in the comforting knowledge that I wouldn't have to go there again until May 2018.

Except, I had quite a good session. For some people having quite a good session might mean doing a few problems they'd not done before - but in my case (and it being Rubicon) it meant making incremental progress on the problems I'm working. OK, Kudos (easy way - I've tried all the other permutations I think) reached a new high point of managing to swap feet on the blunt spike at least once... The Press really really puzzles me. When I'm fresh - at the beginning of the session, just pulling on is fucking really hard - and quite often just doesnt happen. But at the end of the session, when my tips are hurting and my core should be worn, I can pull on time after time and have my best attempts. 'Go figure' etc.. Anyway, now progressed to slapping and hitting but not holding the crimp etc..

Sa: More max hangs (check me out! - training!!)

Su: Back to Rubiton. Good crew there chuffing (Kelvin, Dave and Gus? (or Gav?)). Saw a good ascent of Hot Fun Closing from Gus/Gav (really sorry if I've got your name wrong - I'm crap with names) who was very chuffed at getting his first 8a... OK, me climbing etc.. (a) Kudos - foot swap twice - once even throwing the right foot out to something sensible. small progress. (b) Press - kinda the same - strange near end of session better performance - but probably a bit worse...

Thats enough rambling from me...
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: TobyD on September 25, 2017, 09:29:17 pm: First post for a while, not been doing much training, although been out a few times with various ukB ers.

Monday Torbryan with Matt, did some laps on Barney rubble
Tuesday bunker, bouldering.
Wednesday Ansteys with Matt, warmed up and did empire once.
Thursday
Friday Torbryan with Guy. Tried thread Flintstone, did some silly link ups
Saturday
Sunday morning, motored around on the dart on a boat. Late afternoon went to the bunker as it was drizzly and humid. Bouldering, foot on campussing, and rings.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: nai on September 25, 2017, 09:30:27 pm: Quote from: tomtom on September 25, 2017, 08:56:08 pm
Nai even sported a Moon flat cap...

It's a Baker-boy. Totally different.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: Bradders on September 25, 2017, 09:33:50 pm: STG - Tourniquet
MTG - week off in October and two weeks off before Christmas. Hoping to finish off a couple of grit projects, notably Jason's Roof at Crookrise and Low Rider at Stanage
LTG - too many projects to list here.

M - 50' board session. Felt strong. Good links on problems I've struggled with in the past. Afterwards did a set of 4x4s. First two sets managed all four on purples then went downhill so rapidly by the last set I was falling off blacks.
T - gym, keeping going with the squats and cable exercises. Feeling much better in terms of form for the squats.
W - terrible session at the Depot. Intended to get back on the board but flailed for half an hour before calling it and just did a circuit of purples I've done before, trying to get plenty of volume. In hindsight I was 4th day on and probably would have been better to rest.
T - rest
F - gym, squats again. Increased the weight slightly and managed to keep good form.
S - rest
S - rest
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: Nutty on September 25, 2017, 09:59:10 pm: Weight: 69kg

STG: Train more regularly, sub-45 min 10k in training, climb outdoors more
MTG: Sub-90 min half marathon, 7A something
LTG: TBC

M: Rest.
T: Run. 6k at 4:17/km average pace.
W: Rest.
T: Rest.
F: Rest.
S: Rest. God-daughter's 3rd b'day party.
S: Gardening in the afternoon, then board session in the evening. Made slight progress on the problem I've been trying, getting to the last move. Also managed to get to the same high-point on the mirror-image.

Disappointing week training-wise as I didn't get in the number of sessions I'd have liked. A work training course for most the week meant I was getting home late and was pushed for time in the evening to get anything in. Hopefully a better week this week.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: kelvin on September 25, 2017, 11:10:04 pm: Quote from: tomtom on September 25, 2017, 08:56:08 pm

Su: Back to Rubiton. Good crew there chuffing (Kelvin, Dave and Gus? (or Gav?)). Saw a good ascent of Hot Fun Closing from Gus/Gav (really sorry if I've got your name wrong - I'm crap with names) who was very chuffed at getting his first 8a...

Gavin, and yeah, he made his first 8a look a path whilst the sun was shining on it. I gave up on the rope after you left and decided to have a go at kudos... well, erm, ahh. WTF? Stuck the left hand plenty of times but the feet. Where the hell do the feet go?! Hopefully tick it at some point in 2023.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: tommytwotone on September 26, 2017, 09:34:55 am: Goal: Font 7anything (new)

Still managing a pretty b0rked back after I overdid it deadlifting the other week...

M - nowt, back still a bit sore
T - gym on lunch, did a light-ish session but then got a surprise pass for the wall in the evening so went and climbed surprisingly well - knocked off a few of the new Lab blues (V4ish I think)
W - return of the soreness
T - nowt, more sorenes, work stress and then a night out on the ale
F - hangover, nowt, then a night of being on baby duty
S - pre-5am start, walked about a mile round the village with the pram, then mowed the lawn, then another night on the ale
S - hungover again, but appeared to have developed significant knee / hamstring / calf pain. WTF.

Bit miffed, totally crocked now. Just going to rest and see what happens.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: tomtom on September 26, 2017, 09:43:33 am: Quote from: kelvin on September 25, 2017, 11:10:04 pm
Quote from: tomtom on September 25, 2017, 08:56:08 pm

Su: Back to Rubiton. Good crew there chuffing (Kelvin, Dave and Gus? (or Gav?)). Saw a good ascent of Hot Fun Closing from Gus/Gav (really sorry if I've got your name wrong - I'm crap with names) who was very chuffed at getting his first 8a...

Gavin, and yeah, he made his first 8a look a path whilst the sun was shining on it. I gave up on the rope after you left and decided to have a go at kudos... well, erm, ahh. WTF? Stuck the left hand plenty of times but the feet. Where the hell do the feet go?! Hopefully tick it at some point in 2023.

LH on the finishing hold? then walk lf over to smear below that?
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: nai on September 26, 2017, 10:54:19 am: Quote from: tommytwotone on September 26, 2017, 09:34:55 am
Still managing a pretty b0rked back after I overdid it deadlifting the other week...

have developed significant knee / hamstring / calf pain. WTF.

Bit miffed, totally crocked now. Just going to rest and see what happens.

Tightness in legs/hips can lead to back problems, you might want to start stretching your hamstrings plus your hip flexors and piriformis. It'll certainly do more good than rest/nothing. Maybe get into them with a foam roller too. I'd also suggest seeing someone like Louise that shark goes to would be a good idea, I doubt you're actually crocked just suffereing from tightness and/or some muscle imbalance.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: nai on September 26, 2017, 10:58:05 am: stg - sort iffy finger out, start 6 month plan

M - drove to Works at lunch but couldn't get parked. HI AeroCap back home then part of TRX workout.

T - eliminate puntering with dolly, lagers & tomtom. Think we might be the best climbers.

W - shoulders felt tweaky so sacked off intended weights/TRX.
3x15 mins LI AeroCap at mini works, parking an issue again, gonna be a struggle with the new restrictions.
Started to feel a bit shit as the day went on.

Th, F, S, S Varying degrees of feeling shite. Nearly did some weights on Sunday but saw sense.

Bit demoralised, can't get going.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: tommytwotone on September 26, 2017, 11:06:31 am: Quote from: nai on September 26, 2017, 10:54:19 am
Quote from: tommytwotone on September 26, 2017, 09:34:55 am
Still managing a pretty b0rked back after I overdid it deadlifting the other week...

have developed significant knee / hamstring / calf pain. WTF.

Bit miffed, totally crocked now. Just going to rest and see what happens.

Tightness in legs/hips can lead to back problems, you might want to start stretching your hamstrings plus your hip flexors and piriformis. It'll certainly do more good than rest/nothing. Maybe get into them with a foam roller too. I'd also suggest seeing someone like Louise that shark goes to would be a good idea, I doubt you're actually crocked just suffereing from tightness and/or some muscle imbalance.

Yup - think it's started with back tightness from overdoing it on deadlifts and this leg thing might be referred. Going to have a go at it with the foam roller tonight.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: gme on September 26, 2017, 12:23:13 pm: Quote from: nai on September 26, 2017, 10:58:05 am

M - drove to Works at lunch but couldn't get parked. HI AeroCap back home then part of TRX workout.

3x15 mins LI AeroCap at mini works, parking an issue again, gonna be a struggle with the new restrictions.
Started to feel a bit shit as the day went on.

Bit demoralised, can't get going.

Try working here every day although my mob are a part of the problem.
You could park in the old esporta/ virgin car park on archer road and walk as some of my staff do. 2 min walk along the river.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: gme on September 26, 2017, 12:26:42 pm: And re the new road regulations i fully support them. people park like utter dicks to save themselves 50m of walking.

If anyone ever found a note stuck to the window politely telling them the above fact it was from me.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: nai on September 26, 2017, 03:04:17 pm: Quote from: gme on September 26, 2017, 12:23:13 pm
You could park in the old esporta/ virgin car park on archer road and walk as some of my staff do. 2 min walk along the river.

That's a good shout, cheers. No doubt quicker than all the messing involved in trying to find a space around there lately.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: Murph on September 26, 2017, 03:44:02 pm: I'm going to get stuck back in here. Been spinning my wheels for the last few weeks. Nothing bad and have had two decent sessions a week at the wall consistently and really enjoying it. But want to get fully weaponised over the next ten weeks to have a decent chance of a (new) 7B this year.

So this is week 1 and week 10 will end the first weekend in Dec.
Goals: 1. Consistency 2. Lightness 3. Strongness

Last week, for what it's worth, I had the week off:
M-
T-Birchen with a rope. Easy trad. Terrified on powder monkey traverse. Lovely day.
W-Curbar with a rope. Got my ass handed to me on a VS layback thing. Backed off. Utter coward. Lovely day tho.
T-Works. Wasps. Good laugh.
F-Tried to take the kids to Burbage. Oh how the three year old cried (because she wanted to go to RHS). Short visit. Repeated the pock sds (6C) and that was about it.
S-Works. Wasps and Yellows. Pretty good session.
S-RHS with the kids. The three year old was delighted to get back on her slab doing laps. I was pleased to retro flash that high one to the left of vandals (6A but high and a great problem). The highlight was the mrs climbing the font 5 spine arête thing and declaring that she's going to get back on Strawberries soon. The psyche is high at Murph Towers at the minute...

Weight 68.1kgs this morning. Been worse. Been a lot fucking better.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: Murph on September 26, 2017, 03:47:38 pm: Quote from: tomtom on September 26, 2017, 09:43:33 am
Quote from: kelvin on September 25, 2017, 11:10:04 pm

kudos... well, erm, ahh. WTF? Stuck the left hand plenty of times but the feet. Where the hell do the feet go?! Hopefully tick it at some point in 2023.

LH on the finishing hold? then walk lf over to smear below that?

Just like this hero? Fuckin brilliant bit of climbing that :whistle:

https://vimeo.com/183500212
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: tommytwotone on September 26, 2017, 04:20:21 pm: Quote from: nai on September 26, 2017, 03:04:17 pm
Quote from: gme on September 26, 2017, 12:23:13 pm
You could park in the old esporta/ virgin car park on archer road and walk as some of my staff do. 2 min walk along the river.

That's a good shout, cheers. No doubt quicker than all the messing involved in trying to find a space around there lately.

Or indeed up near the Beer Stop, round by where my old flat is:

https://goo.gl/maps/oDrBRnzZoAT2 (https://goo.gl/maps/oDrBRnzZoAT2)
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: Ally Smith on September 26, 2017, 05:08:09 pm: Quote from: T_B on September 25, 2017, 05:26:54 pm

S - Tor. Fairly goppy. Still, managed to (finally) do Undercut-Sloper with Dave's foot beta. Felt significantly stronger than in May. Then did Cave Problem in a few goes (always stayed away from this in the past as convinced it was dodgy for your knee.. it's not, but you need a very good spot). So not a bad session all things considered.

Sorry for the stalking - what's the magic foot beta for Undercut-crimp/sloper? I can get close, but I feel a mile off holding it
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: T_B on September 26, 2017, 05:33:25 pm: Quote from: Ally Smith on September 26, 2017, 05:08:09 pm

Sorry for the stalking - what's the magic foot beta for Undercut-crimp/sloper? I can get close, but I feel a mile off holding it

I hadn't been using the high right foothold that you can drop knee off. The thing is, you kind of use it to push you leftwards but then you also drive the left toe down onto obvs triangle foothold and turn left hip in to reach the jug less dynamically. It's then easier to hold the swing. All a bit tricky to describe. Dave can literally get the jug static like this, even though he's shorter than me (of course, he crimps the sloper...).
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: Ally Smith on September 26, 2017, 05:45:07 pm: Quote from: T_B on September 26, 2017, 05:33:25 pm

I hadn't been using the high right foothold that you can drop knee off. The thing is, you kind of use it to push you leftwards but then you also drive the left toe down onto obvs triangle foothold and turn left hip in to reach the jug less dynamically. It's then easier to hold the swing. All a bit tricky to describe. Dave can literally get the jug static like this, even though he's shorter than me (of course, he crimps the sloper...).

Cheers, I'll have another go
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: shark on September 26, 2017, 08:04:27 pm: Tall people describing beta to each other :sick:
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: tomtom on September 26, 2017, 08:44:31 pm: Quote from: shark on September 26, 2017, 08:04:27 pm
Tall people describing beta to each other :sick:

Climb faster...
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: tomtom on September 26, 2017, 08:45:48 pm: Quote from: tomtom on September 26, 2017, 08:44:31 pm
Quote from: shark on September 26, 2017, 08:04:27 pm
Tall people describing beta to each other :sick:

Climb faster...

Is it blind date season again... about time we got that done...
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: shark on September 26, 2017, 10:03:40 pm: Quote from: tomtom on September 26, 2017, 08:45:48 pm
Quote from: tomtom on September 26, 2017, 08:44:31 pm
Quote from: shark on September 26, 2017, 08:04:27 pm
Tall people describing beta to each other :sick:

Climb faster...

Is it blind date season again... about time we got that done...

Booked out on the lime till mid November - we can have a date after that. Maybe a couple of you play yours right :-*
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: tomtom on September 26, 2017, 10:41:16 pm: That’s what you said last year - before bombarding me with 10 texts a day....
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: Muenchener on September 27, 2017, 07:34:24 am: Then ditching you the moment Mina snapped her fingers iirc.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: tomtom on September 27, 2017, 07:36:47 am: Quote from: Muenchener on September 27, 2017, 07:34:24 am
Then ditching you the moment Mina snapped her fingers iirc.

It still burns...
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: Wood FT on September 27, 2017, 09:29:55 am: Mon -
Tue -
Wed - fingerboard '6c'
Thu - fingerboard '6c'
Fri - Threadbare, knackered, no progress
Sat - drove to north, lack lustre go up tin of and quick bolt to bolt on call of nature, still hard but still good. Drinks in evening
Sun - hungover at two tier, finally climbed open gate 7a+, a multi year effort.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: T_B on September 27, 2017, 09:41:48 am: Quote from: Wood FT on September 27, 2017, 09:29:55 am
Mon -
Tue -
Wed - fingerboard '6c'
Thu - fingerboard '6c'

Woah steady on, training logged!
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: Wood FT on September 27, 2017, 09:52:41 am: Set of bar stewards, the lot of ya
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: duncan on September 27, 2017, 11:55:01 am: Hello again!

STG - 165 degree shoulder flexion in two weeks
MTG - climbing by mid-November
LTG - tbc

M-S: left shoulder: stretches, theraband work.
M, F: left and right fingerboard “pick-ups”
S: right shoulder: stability stuff

7 weeks post-shoulder dislocation. First three weeks were too sore to do much beyond trying to maintain range and hoping that the axillary nerve paralysis would show signs of recovery. This started with flickers in the deltoid, to my great relief, at the end of last month. Have been working to rebuild deltoid and the surrounding muscles since then. The last four weeks have been mainly about regaining lost flexibility, currently up to 150 degrees elevation. I’ve also been doing “pick-ups” with DIY rock rings (https://www.instagram.com/p/BOjkeozjBKZ/?hl=en&taken-by=duncancritchley). Don’t know how transferable this will be, but I’ve built up to ~25kg with my left and ~40kg with my right arm on a ~22mm edge. Always taking 2 or 3 days complete rest between sessions and, so far, good gains and no tweaks. Allowing proper recovery is something to consider when I’m able to use a real fingerboard again.

At the outset I estimated I’d need 3 months to get back onto rock and this still seems to be the case. Another 5 weeks or so with the present rate of progress.

Any suggestions on what else I could be doing during this time that would vaguely contribute to climbing?
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: yetix on September 27, 2017, 12:19:40 pm: Quote from: duncan on September 27, 2017, 11:55:01 am
I’ve also been doing “pick-ups” with DIY rock rings (https://www.instagram.com/p/BOjkeozjBKZ/?hl=en&taken-by=duncancritchley). Don’t know how transferable this will be, but I’ve built up to ~25kg with my left and ~40kg with my right arm on a ~22mm edge.

are you adding weight to these much in the same way as with pinch blocks? curious as to how effective this would be!
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: duncan on September 27, 2017, 01:43:56 pm: Quote from: yetix on September 27, 2017, 12:19:40 pm
Quote from: duncan on September 27, 2017, 11:55:01 am
I’ve also been doing “pick-ups” with DIY rock rings (https://www.instagram.com/p/BOjkeozjBKZ/?hl=en&taken-by=duncancritchley). Don’t know how transferable this will be, but I’ve built up to ~25kg with my left and ~40kg with my right arm on a ~22mm edge.

are you adding weight to these much in the same way as with pinch blocks? curious as to how effective this would be!

There is some enthusiasm for it on r/ where they call it "no hanging". I have not much idea if it will have any effect. Better than finger rolls but not as good as a proper finger board? Potential issue could be strengthening the fingers but not the shoulders, leaving the latter more prone to injury?

Like this, but with smaller muscles and better posture:

(https://static1.squarespace.com/static/56830ef60ab377cb562da204/t/571906f8b654f9c7fea82022/1461258464021/?format=1000w)
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: shark on September 27, 2017, 05:48:16 pm: Quote from: tomtom on September 27, 2017, 07:36:47 am
Quote from: Muenchener on September 27, 2017, 07:34:24 am
Then ditching you the moment Mina snapped her fingers iirc.

It still burns...

Just had a text

Quote
Are you malhaming at the moment or leaving it for this season?

What do I do?
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: Wood FT on September 27, 2017, 06:01:28 pm: Quote from: shark on September 27, 2017, 05:48:16 pm
Quote from: tomtom on September 27, 2017, 07:36:47 am
Quote from: Muenchener on September 27, 2017, 07:34:24 am
Then ditching you the moment Mina snapped her fingers iirc.

It still burns...

Just had a text

Quote
Are you malhaming at the moment or leaving it for this season?

What do I do?

Worth a trip just to see how your recent bouldering exploits have helped
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: shark on September 27, 2017, 06:11:45 pm: Quote from: Wood FT on September 27, 2017, 06:01:28 pm
Quote from: shark on September 27, 2017, 05:48:16 pm
Quote from: tomtom on September 27, 2017, 07:36:47 am
Quote from: Muenchener on September 27, 2017, 07:34:24 am
Then ditching you the moment Mina snapped her fingers iirc.

It still burns...

Just had a text

Quote
Are you malhaming at the moment or leaving it for this season?

What do I do?

Worth a trip just to see how your recent bouldering exploits have helped

(http://www.girlschase.com/images/moth-to-the-flame-3.jpg)
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: nai on September 27, 2017, 07:56:34 pm: Quote from: Wood FT on September 27, 2017, 06:01:28 pm
Worth a trip just to see how your recent bouldering exploits have helped

Then he'll get the horn and get sucked in and waste the next month or so getting/not getting the horn etc. and all that time he could have been putting toward a Spring assault will be wasted and it won't happen then either because of lack of preperation and then we'll all be here doing it all over again this time next year.

Stay on Target. The Foundry should be your default go-to.
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: Wood FT on September 27, 2017, 08:23:59 pm: Call me naive but I would have expected le shark to simply recce the route, to feel how stronger he is, then get psyched to continue this radical bouldering phenomenon until he's at ~7b+ / whatever grade the ukb hive has determined is required. You might know Simon's personality better than I but no harm in taking a positive take on a potential Malham trip
Title: Re: UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 27, 2017, 09:24:16 pm: M - soloing easy routes at Burbage North
Tu - Burbage South with Nai, Tomtom and Dolly - they are all proper athletes, so climbed much better than me - top fun
W - building kites with Beavers
Th - easy gym session
F - Secret Garden and Mother Cap with Big Ed. Surprised myself getting to the top of Beachball in reasonable style - more surprised when my skin decided to leave my finger in slow motion
not really NSFW, but it's not a small picture
NSFW :
(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DKVGUeEW0AYqLha.jpg)
Sa - my mate and I dug a 5m³ hole out of clay, rock and concrete using only shovels and a sledge hammer - rather tired - fun
Su - moved pile of earth and rock to it's new home and turned the hole into a pond - even more tired - big fun