UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: TobyD on May 31, 2017, 01:45:27 pm
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Sorry, no US metal.
Just more of my ramblings:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=9457
Please argue at will!
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American hardcore, technically.
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As per my post on the other channel, as I've got older I've started wearing my helmet more. Trad climbing without it feels strange.
For a photo of Bransby being gnarly in an old school lid, this is still one of my favourite climbing photos of all time:
http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/uploads/1/3/1/7/13174502/7930175_orig.jpg?352
Ben Bransby on the Nose on Eigg by JB of this parish.
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Using an expanded foam helmet has made a huge difference for me - feel much happier wearing my Shield II (think these are still going cheap on Rock+Run) than I was in my Elios.
Tried on one of the new Siroccos recently and thought it was great - will probably be getting one before my next trip.
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I rarely wear a helmet on lead sport climbing, but there are plenty of sport climbing areas in the Alps where I'd feel pretty unhappy belaying without one. Mostly wear an old skool hardshell number for that, and save the fancy lightweight foam job for when I do actual alpine routes.
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Bloody useless at remembering to put it on even when I have it or even whilst shouting at the kids to put theirs back on.
I swore I would always wear one after, first, a mate tripped over his own crampon, descending from Tryfan after doing winter routes. He's only alive because(unlike me) he left his helmet on to carry it. The sound of him bouncing off the rock with his noggin will stay with me forever.
In Antarctica, descending from Mt Roots, my 1i/c slipped traversing on points accross vertical Bergschrund, snagged his crampon on the rope; swing upside down into the Crevasse wall. Basically taking the full impact with his head, from a good 20' swing; leaving him unconscious and me in charge...
Helmet saved his life there too. Not that we'd have dreamed of not wearing a lid in a place like that, but still brought it home.
Yet I still forget to put it on.
Because that's being human, I guess.
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heads-up :sorry:, Shield Lite helmets (220g!) are on sale at Bananafingers for £30, down from £80. Tempted just... because.
Also, aside from the safety issue (I only sport climb but my feet have an unfailing ability to get tangled with the rope), I reckon there are a few RPs where I have had the yips doing moves because of fear of an awkward fall, and a helmet might have made me me less tentative.
https://www.bananafingers.co.uk/edelrid-shield-lite-p-2756.html (https://www.bananafingers.co.uk/edelrid-shield-lite-p-2756.html)
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gooutdoors have got the older (BRIGHT ORANGE) sirocco helmets for 60 quid at the moment
the new version comes out soon, so they might become cheaper...
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heads-up :sorry:, Shield Lite helmets (220g!) are on sale at Bananafingers for £30, down from £80. Tempted just... because.
Also, aside from the safety issue (I only sport climb but my feet have an unfailing ability to get tangled with the rope), I reckon there are a few RPs where I have had the yips doing moves because of fear of an awkward fall, and a helmet might have made me me less tentative.
https://www.bananafingers.co.uk/edelrid-shield-lite-p-2756.html (https://www.bananafingers.co.uk/edelrid-shield-lite-p-2756.html)
I need to shop for one, thanks. I picked my old Camp one up in the garage the other day and the glue had melted and the padding fell out. Then I realised I'd bought it in late 2002.
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I reckon there are a few RPs where I have had the yips doing moves because of fear of an awkward fall, and a helmet might have made me me less tentative.
This behavioural change has been shown by some studies (though the evidence appears to be weak) to outweigh the benefits of helmets. Anecdotally you appear to be evidence for this increase in risk taking.
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I reckon there are a few RPs where I have had the yips doing moves because of fear of an awkward fall, and a helmet might have made me me less tentative.
This behavioural change has been shown by some studies (though the evidence appears to be weak) to outweigh the benefits of helmets. Anecdotally you appear to be evidence for this increase in risk taking.
I've heard of that evidence re cycling helmets. That said, my own point is more a guess of my likely response to helmet wearing, rather than direct evidence of an increase in risk taking (I might well still get the yips despite a helmet).
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I think I like the theory as I still remember getting a bike helmet as a kid, putting it on and then cycling like a total nutter until I fell off and hurt myself.
I, of course, blamed it on the lid
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American hardcore, technically.
Sorry Tom, accepted, and I am extremely disappointed in myself for getting that wrong. Genuinely.
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There isn't much similarity between Moose's redpoints: fear in an essentially very safe environment, to going balls out on a bike in busy traffic which is not safe in any sense.
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gooutdoors have got the older (BRIGHT ORANGE) sirocco helmets for 60 quid at the moment
the new version comes out soon, so they might become cheaper...
I've got one of the new Ines, it's a very impressive bit of kit. Started wearing one when my wife was pregnant and I went alpine rock climbing, don't think about it anymore. Second rule of Dad club.
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I reckon there are a few RPs where I have had the yips doing moves because of fear of an awkward fall, and a helmet might have made me me less tentative.
This behavioural change has been shown by some studies (though the evidence appears to be weak) to outweigh the benefits of helmets. Anecdotally you appear to be evidence for this increase in risk taking.
The solution would seem to be a helmet with a small, blunt metal insert on the inside, designed to fracture the skull in event of impact. Presto - the feeling of being sensible by 'wearing a helmet', without the complacency/increased risk-taking of thinking it'll prevent injury. Win/win. Is there anything I've missed? :-\
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I recently got a new-school Mammut helmet (https://www.mammut.ch/images/Product/22_Climbing%20Equipment/2220_Helmets/wall-rider_orange_gho1_rgb_500x500.jpg). There's a possibility that I look like one of the Pet Shop Boys (https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/ba/c1/4c/bac14c4946280e8914097f8c8f96e19d.jpg) in it but it's certainly changed my attitude to "I suppose it'd be sensible to put a helmet on for this route" to "Check out my cool new helmet". I used to take my old helmet to grit crags and not wear it all day. I wear this one for every trad route I do.
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There's a possibility that I look like one of the Pet Shop Boys
Could be worse, could look like Kryten https://rockrun.com/products/grivel-stealth-helmet
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Yeah, that's one of the helmets that failed to meet my vanity-based selection criteria.
Plus if it's anything like the incredibly light pink Grivel screwgate that I just received in the post (bought to fulfill free shipping requirements) it'll have a straight-out-of-a-Christmas-cracker feel to its build quality. If you're reading this Stevie Haston, please don't hurt me.
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I pretty much always wear a helmet when climbing outdoors for both trad and sport. I haven't ever worn one when bouldering, but it's something I'd consider if the problem warranted it. I haven't worn one when soloing, not that I do much, but part of the appeal of soloing is the minimal gear required. I don't wear one indoors.
This discussion has made me consider whether I need a new helmet, as mine is getting on a bit.
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Yeah, that's one of the helmets that failed to meet my vanity-based selection criteria.
Best helmet is the one on your head, not in your bag. That criterion is the most important thing by far, if it looks fucking ridiculous, you won't wear it, and it won't save your life, however light it is. I've got a meteor 3, preferred the original meteor, will probably get a new Scirocco.
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heads-up :sorry:, Shield Lite helmets (220g!) are on sale at Bananafingers for £30, down from £80. Tempted just... because.
Also, aside from the safety issue (I only sport climb but my feet have an unfailing ability to get tangled with the rope), I reckon there are a few RPs where I have had the yips doing moves because of fear of an awkward fall, and a helmet might have made me me less tentative.
https://www.bananafingers.co.uk/edelrid-shield-lite-p-2756.html (https://www.bananafingers.co.uk/edelrid-shield-lite-p-2756.html)
In banana fingers now, just to say these look pretty good and an absolute bargain but the size 1 (only size in stock) is pretty small, def too little for me and I'd expect to get into 56cm. Dense should def stock up tho [emoji6]
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