UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: Andy B on May 17, 2017, 11:42:58 am
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Behind The Ramp is a hemmed in prow. Climb it from sitting, with a couple of tricky moves to gain the jug on the arete, and an easier finish, at low to mid 7.
(http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm59/AndyBandEmmaF/IMG_5617.jpg)
I also did a few warm up sit starts on the boulder 50m under the crag from here.
(http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm59/AndyBandEmmaF/IMG_5611.jpg)
The left arete, the breaks between the arete and the groove, the groove and the right arete are all 5s to low 6s.
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Nice one, saw this last week when out with the camera, wondered what it was. Does it start on any specific holds (slopey RH sidepull?)?.
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Cheers Dave. I started with my right on the slopey pinch in the pic, and with my left crimping the horizontal thin seam close to the arête (roughly where my wizards sleeve is in the pic).
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Good stuff. I did it from standing a while back but gave up on the sitter because it was a bit scrittley but mostly because it was quite hard.
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Finally got round to doing this from sitting today. Good problem, shame about it being a bit scrittley and hemmed in.
I started with my right hand on the slopey pinch and my left on a diagonal hold near where Andy's left foot is in the photo. I couldn't do the first move using the thin horizontal seam as it seemed utterly nails that way. It felt about 7A+ the way I did it.
I assume the problem finishes up the right side of the arete using the crimp up and right of the jug. I also did two alternative finishes (in my defence there's not a lot to do at Carrhead). A right-hand finish matches the crimp and goes to a good hold in a groove below the top. Unfortunately it relies on a fragile foothold. A left-hand finish matches the jug and finishes up the left side of the arete. Not a great landing on the left. Both a touch harder than the original.