UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: stvey1987 on April 24, 2017, 06:56:28 pm
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Hello! So I was trying this the other day and would like to go back...but I'm not entirely confident of the line, is it eliminate at all ?!
Right below the slopey finger rail are two obvious start holds (a large flat sidepull for right hand and a blocky hold in the large recess to the left) - is this it for the start of the problem ? If it is then it was feeling and looking bloody nails! Or....there is another hold out left a bit from these which I think you could get once pulling on and use to set yourself right before going to the rail?? Ta muchly!
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I remember something to do with a left hand pinch thing, and a kneebar. And that it was hard and very conditions dependant
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Pull on and go for the left-hand hold, cheeky knee bar, rail, top, start swimming. Great problem.
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Brilliant! That is what I hoped I would hear! Thank you very mucho !
It was my first trip into the woods, I was pleasantly surprised! Appliance friction was well good and the 6C to the right of Bumlog also really good. Didn't explore too much but some of the deeper blocs we found did look like they had been reclaimed by nature quite a bit...
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It's a good crag. Sadly a fair number of the best probs are in need of a reclean at the moment. The whole place could do with a bit of a team blitz to clean the bigger lines and clear the access between boulders of brambles and fallen trees.
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Regarding Bumlog. The move from the rail to the top. Is it significantly harder if you can't keep the low foot on?
Or is it commonly done cutting on that move. It feels absurd for the shorties but I am hardly super strong.
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Regarding Bumlog. The move from the rail to the top. Is it significantly harder if you can't keep the low foot on?
Or is it commonly done cutting on that move. It feels absurd for the shorties but I am hardly super strong.
Pretty sure I just cut loose when I did it last winter. I remember there is one specific bit of the top which is quite a lot better than the rest of it. I kept hitting the top and not holding it, scouted the good bit out from an adjacent rock and then did it shortly after. The mantle is still nails though! Really good problem so I'd persevere.
This video of Bonjoy on it looks like my sequence
https://vimeo.com/79001918
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Thanks a lot :) I'll pull my socks up and accept my cut loosey fate.
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Let's go and try it together and I can heckle you into getting up it you handsome beast
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I love that area of the Peak. If you haven't been to do Gathering Storm at Doll Tor that's also ace.
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I love that area of the Peak. If you haven't been to do Gathering Storm at Doll Tor that's also ace.
The valley of the dolls is a project of mine there. 6A and absolutely horrendous.
If anyone's done it speak up. I want to know how bad a fall from the heel up would be!
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I've done that, very good but definitely a bit harrowing by yourself. The first time I got stood up on the slab I wussed out and used the big pine tree for aid!