UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: fried on February 05, 2017, 05:22:50 pm
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STG - keep up the bm session now work's picking up. Get out on rock.
M- Indoors session , shoulder ok, but didn't push it too much.
T/W rest
Th - Same as above but a bit lacklustre
F/Sa - rest
Su - BM session 5x5 (2sets) slopers, reduced crimps, no break between.
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STG - Get out on rock.
STG: Left leg pistol squat; also see above.
MTG (Spring 2017): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M: Evening mini snowboard tour to a hilltop pub for a mate's birthday. Big thaw has started to kick in so conditions were crap, nevertheless my first time snowboarding in the dark turned out to be quite fun.
T: Max hangs, shoulders, pistol squat progressions, mobility.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes.
T: Shoulders, mobility, pistol squat progressions
F: Bike to work.
Evening max hangs whilst watching US national boulder qualis & being suitably inspired by new generation super crushers Ashima & Brooke Raboutou.
S: Shoulders, mobility, pistol squat progressions.
Went shopping in town and scored a half price jumar in the sales. YYFY. But what I was actually looking for was a grill pan, and I suspect while I could probably figure out a way to ascend a rope using a cast iron pan if had to, attempting to grill a steak using a jumar would probably melt it.
S: Boulderwelt with M jnr. Another shit session with nothing achieved nnfn. Made initial progress on a couple of good projects yyfy, one of which is strikingly similar to the crux of my 7a+ project in the Frankenjura that is south facing & should be in condition real soon now.
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Goals:
Good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power?)and 8b by next June
In shape for SA in summer.
Body Audit: Shoulder ok. Middle finger LH collateral seems sorted, both middle fingers feeling bit tweaky on board stuff though. Taping and being careful.
Sleep: ok, been taking the melatolin this week, and lots of time in bed, but started waking in the night again though which is shit.
68kg.
M: TCA, Moonboard. Mostly 7B stuff, found it harder than last week, though did do easiest "7C" ever. Could def feel fingers after, so iced. (7.5~hrs)
T: TCA, new hard circuit part set (Reds) so did bunch of those, ~10 problems 6C to 7B ish. (~7hrs)
W: nowt. (~6hrs)
T: Bloc, woody. Not much time or psyche, managed a couple of things, one of which I'd failed on last week though. Jack arrived as was about to leave, so did bit of campusing while chatting, managed 147 leading left on mediums again, tagged 7 leading right a couple of times too, but RH middle finger started to complain so called it.(~7.5hrs)
F: nothing, got daughter. (~7.5hrs)
S: see above. (~7hrs)
S: took her to tca, managed a couple more Reds, but not much really. (~? hrs not had them yet but will be another early night)
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2017 goals - 8a/+ redpoints, 7c onsight, E5 OS, E6 HP, 7C.
Mon -
AM - Yoga class
Noon - Massage, quite deep, quite sore.
Tue LI AeroCap, probably shouldn't have, still quite sore.
Wed 1 hour Yin yoga for back knots
Thu Bouldery AeroPow on Wave, better then last week but still struggling with the L2s. This is a particularly hard set though apparently.
1 hr yoga PM
Fri - Foundry
Plan was to spend an hour warming up and refining a few L2s then hit the autobelays for AeroPow.
But the L2s weren't going well and having managed to connect to the moonboard for the first time I got sucked into to trying problems on that. Thought it would suit me being covered in relatively large positive holds but was issued a grade A spanking, only managed a few things up to 6C. Just about to give up when Tommy came to try it out so carried on and was inspired to try a bit harder but without much more success. Ended up on it for almost 2 hours. When I finally did finish I then went and did 2 of the L2s I'd been struggling with first try - go figure :shrug:
Odd, it's the same angle as my board but climbs so differently, my problems are much more static, short snatches between poorer holds. It does have lots of mostly rubbish footholds unlike the MB, I did find it a ballache doing hands follows feet on yardy problems and found a lot of problems really morpho with a huge move to start then I'd be too stretched out to move. There seem to be lot of these. Anyway, enough rambling, it's fun and looks like it's exposed a weakness. Plan to get on it more.
onto Autobelay for 10 x 1min HI AeroCap
S rest
Sun - very quick boulder on home board to get recruited then a series of disjointed max hangs benchmarking vs past performances on beastmaker then setting levels for future comparison on new rungs setup. Seems I'm generally stronger 1/2 crimped and weaker open than previous. Going to run a little test and use boards twice a week for a month instead of fingerboarding. Hope to improve at bigger moves, see gains grade-wise on the moonboard and see whether finger strength also improves.
managed 1/2 a weights workout but was short of time.
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Goals:
S: took her to tca, managed a couple more Reds, but not much really. (~? hrs not had them yet but will be another early night)
~4hrs. Fucks sake.
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Goals:
S: took her to tca, managed a couple more Reds, but not much really. (~? hrs not had them yet but will be another early night)
~4hrs. Fucks sake.
I have had good success with 40mg of doxylamine, a sedating antihistamine. For some reason they dont do it over the counter in the UK, but I can let you have some to try to see if you want to order if you like?
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M - Felt ill again
T - Ill
W - Taking it easy
T - Foundry P.M. Max Hangs (5 x 27Kg, half crimp, 5 x 12Kg middle two). Bit of wave bouldering. Ran home.
F - Ran to work
S -
S - A.M. Kinder bog trotting. P.M. Homeboard. Good 1.5hr sess with Mrs T_B
Light week due to having the weird virus thing everyone seems to have had. Upped the Kg on the max hangs to offset weight loss.
Plan to do a bit more this wk.
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STG: Rehab. shoulder, elbow
MTG: tbc
LTG: 7b+. E5. Tempi Moderni August 2017 + one other long, hard and free
M - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises.
T - Fingerboard lifting: half crimp and drags (30kg), left hand only. Tested right hand with a couple of 15kg lifts, sore after this. Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises.
W - 11km walk. Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises.
T - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises. 10km walk.
F - Fingerboard lifting: half crimp and drags (30kg), left hand only. Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises.
S - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Reading new Avon guidebook, mostly extremely good, review may follow.
S - 30 mins. step-ups. 10km walk. Teaching offspring to swim.
Sharkathon tick. Shoulder and elbow slightly better but still some way off climbing. Terradets in 2 and a bit weeks...
Weight still far too high and stuck. Proof, if any were needed, that you can’t outwalk a fork. Going for regular strolls does help sleep and keeps my hip from seizing up completely. Plan: start monitoring food more closely and set some targets.
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STG: Keep up with finger physio and keep to training plan.
MTG: Lots of 7a/b ticks on Yorkshire Limestone. Quick tick of Tremolo, 7c, at Malham.
LTG (4 years): The Groove at Malham.
M - Depot. Did comp circuit, got to around #20 okay and then failed on a few of the harder problems. Ticked lots of other reds in between attempts. Weighted hangs (+20kg) - 10x10s hangs with 1 minute rest between each.
T - Run & knee physio
W -
T - Banff Film Festival
F - Banff Film Festival
S - Run & Bought new car - YYFY
S - Depot. Warmed up and found a 14 move problem on the 30 degree wall for An Cap. Approx 40s of climbing. Did this 10 times with 2 minutes rest inbetween. Mix of push-ups, core and stretching between attempts. Never failed but felt v. powered out at the end of attempts towards the last few reps. This is what you aim for, right?
Did finger exercises each day. It's feeling okay but definitely a bit sore still. Back to the physio on Friday so I'll see what she says.
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Planned light week for me last week. Felt pretty weak on Thursday's session for some reason, 3 rest days felt like too much... Felt strong on yesterday's night session, back to the higer volume of training this week.
M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Lunch - 50 Crunches (+5kg)
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises to bar
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises to bar
50 Crunches (+5kg)
T: Plas Power - 2 x 8 min on 2min off LI-AeroCap
Max Hangs
Open crimp - 20mm edge - 3 x 10s (3min rest)
Half crimp - 25mm edge - 3 x 10s (3min rest)
Board - Figured out a good last couple of moves for project, had 2 goes from the start and fell off on move 6 twice. Problem is 8 moves in total.
AnCap - 7 x 12moves (2mins rest between reps)
Powered out on rep 7.
Didn't realise the time so couldn't complete 8th rep.
F: Rest
S: Rest
S: Minera Bouldering night session - Esoteric local limestone boulder, never been before and really impressed. Flashed "Warhammer" (6B) and did Danny Cattell's "Siani Blewog" (6C+) in a few goes, great moves. Had a bunch of goes on "Ned's Arete" (6C+), did all the moves but the slopey pinches were in bad condition, moisture in the air and everything was slowly freezing over.
Keen to go back to try the 7A+ and DC's 7B/+.
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S - Depot. Warmed up and found a 14 move problem on the 30 degree wall for An Cap. Approx 40s of climbing. Did this 10 times with 2 minutes rest inbetween. Mix of push-ups, core and stretching between attempts. Never failed but felt v. powered out at the end of attempts towards the last few reps. This is what you aim for, right?
Aim to power out on 25% of reps. Sounds like it was too easy. I certainly feel like I can't do anything strenuous in the rest periods when doing AnCap especially in the later reps.
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STG: Send other M10 DT route route Manod. Send existing projs at Crag X (NI), G.Orme and Gideon.
MTG: first 8b+ (Mecca), spring. Develop/send routes at Mega Crag X (spring-summer). Explore more of Ireland. Send 2 projs on L.Orme (late summer)
LTG: 8c, by June 2018
M. Bolting at 'mega crag x'. Sketchy rope access saw us getting a horizontal handrail into place under a huge roof, and fixed ropes to the ground to allow us to return and easily equip 3 routes on the wall; and the first bolt in a great groove line to the left. Mega psyched for mega crag! Overnight ferry back in the evening, almost missed it.
T.
W. Fingerboard sesh. 5 x 10secs with 18Kg on AAA battery-reduced BM2k large slots to make them a 20mm edge.
T. Boardroom. Tried an aerocap sesh on the latticeboard. 30 x 20 secs on/10 secs off, climbing around my own sequence (not the lattice test sequence). Did first set, managed 15 on the second set. Unsurprisingly quite poor aerocap but I usually respond quite quickly once I start working it.
F. Moonboard. Tired sesh third day on. Totally powered down and failed to even do any 6Cs, let alone 7Bs.
S. Equipping day at Manod DT crag. Put perma draws in Flying Colours, the new M10 extension.
S. Equipping at Manod. Put perma-draws in Stress Test, new extension to 8-Iron, and 8-Iron. 28 stainless maillons, rope and biners placed @ £3.50 per maillon.. Any walls who are getting rid of their steel 'biners I'd love to chat..
Start of 10 weeks lead-in to Mecca starting today.
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Goals:
S: took her to tca, managed a couple more Reds, but not much really. (~? hrs not had them yet but will be another early night)
~4hrs. Fucks sake.
I have had good success with 40mg of doxylamine, a sedating antihistamine. For some reason they dont do it over the counter in the UK, but I can let you have some to try to see if you want to order if you like?
Cheers for the offer, going to see how it goes this week before any other drugs though. Do you have trouble dropping off initially? I go down fine, just often wake after a few hours and struggle to get back to sleep. Maybe need to spend a few nights under the stars like they said on the news the other day... Just getting fucked off giving up so much of my evening just to give myself 9+ hrs in bed for 6-7hrs sleep.
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STG: Winter projects
MTG: Climb well in Font
LTG: 8B
M: Lunch yoga.
T: 50 board. good session. Mainly trying hard 2-5 moves.
W:
T: Lunch yoga. 50 board. Strongest I've ever felt on it. Easily lapping moves that shut my down previously. Close to climbing my first hard problem.
F:
S: Yorkshire esoteric. Glorious day out with a big team.
S: Brimham. Recompiled my tick list and there's suddenly so much to do there.
Feeling quite strong at the moment. Keen to get back on the winter projects.
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Do the Fonz.
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Do the Fonz.
It's at the top of my list. Was supposed to try it yesterday but got sidetracked looking at other things. It's amazing how quickly a day goes when you go wandering around Brimham.
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Goals:
S: took her to tca, managed a couple more Reds, but not much really. (~? hrs not had them yet but will be another early night)
~4hrs. Fucks sake.
I have had good success with 40mg of doxylamine, a sedating antihistamine. For some reason they dont do it over the counter in the UK, but I can let you have some to try to see if you want to order if you like?
Cheers for the offer, going to see how it goes this week before any other drugs though. Do you have trouble dropping off initially? I go down fine, just often wake after a few hours and struggle to get back to sleep. Maybe need to spend a few nights under the stars like they said on the news the other day... Just getting fucked off giving up so much of my evening just to give myself 9+ hrs in bed for 6-7hrs sleep.
No its going to sleep in the first place which is the hard bit for me.
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Goals:
S: took her to tca, managed a couple more Reds, but not much really. (~? hrs not had them yet but will be another early night)
~4hrs. Fucks sake.
I have had good success with 40mg of doxylamine, a sedating antihistamine. For some reason they dont do it over the counter in the UK, but I can let you have some to try to see if you want to order if you like?
Cheers for the offer, going to see how it goes this week before any other drugs though. Do you have trouble dropping off initially? I go down fine, just often wake after a few hours and struggle to get back to sleep. Maybe need to spend a few nights under the stars like they said on the news the other day... Just getting fucked off giving up so much of my evening just to give myself 9+ hrs in bed for 6-7hrs sleep.
No its going to sleep in the first place which is the hard bit for me.
I was introduced recently to the 'Holy Trinity' sleep stack - right before bed smash 40mg doxy, 10mg diazepam, 3.5mg zopiclone. Sleep like such a hero.
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No its going to sleep in the first place which is the hard bit for me.
I was introduced recently to the 'Holy Trinity' sleep stack - right before bed smash 40mg doxy, 10mg diazepam, 3.5mg zopiclone. Sleep like such a hero.
Pretty sure I'd sleep fine on that lot! Rather not tho, esp the valium. Prob is I can always get to sleep the first time, just waste 2 or 3 hrs getting to sleep the second!
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How about getting some glycine? Its harmless, and pretty much everyone could use more in their diet. Dropping a few grams before bed may help?
Also some people find that supplementing with resistant starch helps (go slow and steady tho!)
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M: work till late. nothing
T: hangs 4x 30" on 30" off. 4 sets
W: shoulder excercises with theraband
T: more theraband
F: repeaters 6x 5" on 5" off x 5. 4 sets
S: isometric weights.
S: Quick session on the board. Repeated a couple of problems, climbed one set last week and a few tries on a new one. Some system. Great session. Feeling strong. Finished with some HIIT
First week of power endurance training. Light week overall. Really happy with my performance on the board on Sunday.
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resistant starch helps (go slow and steady tho!)
this sounds uncomfortable!
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Power Club
Mon - AeroCap, 8/2 x4. Dumbbell thruster 25x2, very tired after bad night. Must keep going with the AeroCap training, I'm sure it's crucial for me. Will start doing it on rest days also.
Tue - rest.
Wed - weights; diagonal work; static dumbbell complex x2, painful.
Thu - cleans, climbing class. Tired.
Fri - anti rotation work; shoulder rotations; boxing bag, combinations and Tabata.
Sat - cleans from ground 5x5 51 kg; muscle snatch 5x3 41 kg; front lever pulls 6x3. Boxing bag, combinations and Tabata. Good!
Sun - board climbing, hard after previous night's party.
Overally tired. I finally understood that 50 reps of snatches and cleans are a bit taxing on the forearms and not the best preparation for a board session the day after. It only took me three years to figure it out.
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S: Great session. Feeling strong. Finished with some HIIT
Really happy with my performance on the board on Sunday.
Must have been the bottle of Finlaggan on Saturday night!
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S: Great session. Feeling strong. Finished with some HIIT
Really happy with my performance on the board on Sunday.
Must have been the bottle of Finlaggan on Saturday night!
:alky: Or the beans and sausages.. or the cheesecake... or... ;D
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M. hard limit boulder. Weighted pull ups 8 @ 20Kg; 5@30Kg; 4@32.5Kg; 4@32.5kg (failed last rep).
T. nothing
W. BBC orange Circuit(V4-5) aiming to limit rest time between for some power endurance training.
Th. nothing
F. Low intensity high volume route climbing @ Creation.
Sat. stretching
Sun. Harder indoor routes at Redpoint 3 hours. Board/barrel for 40 mins.
Not a very structured week but enjoying the route sessions !
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M - Rest/ Shoulder Rehab
T - Long Day - AM - Moonboard OS and Flash work, then FB MAW +70lbs, PM-Slab/Techy Boulders, DL 3x5x325#, Routes-8x 7a-7b
W - Rest
T - AM FB, PM Backcountry snowboard run w Wife
F - AM- Snowboard Backcountry-5 hrs, PM Skate Ski 45min
S - AM Skate Ski 1hr, PM FB-Felt very heavy and tired, but performed OK, MAW +75lbs
S - Boulder - Volume up to 7A/B, then Lever work
Good week overall, not much training progress, but loads of fun. Cleaned off a couple of projects while out backcountry, so If the weather holds, I may get outside tomorrow. ;D
Saturday's FB Session matched my 3rd best ever for total hanging weight, so If I can drop weight I'll be firing and ready... Just ave to drop 15lbs..... Fuck I'm fat right now...
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11.4-6
Easy week
M. Yoga
T.
W.
T. Back to Sheffield for Lattice test with Paul. Started off ok. Including weight gain about 2 kg stronger on hang test (one arm/5 secs/+10kg Right and +11kg Left) Matched my max score on lattice test. Paul was timing the intervals but they seemed too long. My doubts that hed fucked up where confirmed after I did 28 moves and Paul calculated I had 3 mins rest and was still arguing that he was doing it right! >:(. And no, even I'm not that slow ie 6 secs per move.
F.
S. Weather looked iffy. Headed out with Seb. Turned out to be a lovely day. Started at Moorside Rocks (not been before) and did the tricky 6b left arete. Also did Charlotte Dumpling to where it gets spicy and jumped off. Moved on to start of Gardoms (again that end new to me) and did G-Thang and teh sitter at 6C/+ which was great. Moved on to Suavito 7B which was amazing but frustrating. I couldnt quite reach the left hand sidehold. Seb got close with his hand on top. Then moved on to quest for Bin Ladens Cave 7A. Fortunately found it. Mossy and wet on top which made it intersting. We both got it about 3rd or 4th go. Another great problem. Good to get new crag ticks in and always entertaining to go out with Seb. Overall a superb day out.
S. PM Lengthy max hangs session. Possibly scored a bit better than previous Sunday
Working at BMC has been pretty full on. Need to get my shit together as Mina rightly told me if Im going to get the Oak done :spank: Getting stronger but have to knock off the drinking and tighten the diet as Im not losing anything at the minute. Going to be up in Malham this weekend on business so a visit to the Catwalk should remind me why Im doing it all. More of the same sort of training for the next 3 weeks ie Fingerboard (max hangs now) AeroCap, AnCap and bouldering. Phase in AeroPower in March
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Isn't Bin Ladens 6C? ;)
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Isn't Bin Ladens 6C? ;)
Where do you get that from?
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M:
Tu: Rockpity, Hull. Decent ish session - but lost a load of skin on my knuckles in the razer sharp walled boiler-room. Good to catch up with a couple of folk I'd not seen in ages.
We:
Th:
<EPIPHANY ALERT>
I went to the Manchester Depot - warmed up and spent 90 min on the 30 degree board.
I've never really spent any time working a board before. I wanted to try something different with going to the wall - having suffered sore back after most previous visits I wanted to try basic hard training. So lets give this 30 a whirl eh...
Worked a couple of ways up the Crusher holds on the right - elimintated an odd hold or two
Did the same on the left - then eliminated the odd hold until I was crimping hard, having to try really hard and throwing and just catching holds. Probably did 3 or 4 problems up to 6Cish grade -but it felt gooooood...
Why have I never done this before????
</EPIPHANY ALERT>
Fri: I ached. Quite alot :)
Sa: Less aching - stuff with MrsTT and TT Jnr in the AM - quick 90 min at Brownstones trying Colt (again). Had to dry (repeatedly) one of the holds which made it interesting... got my hands in the slot twice but couldnt hold.. felt stronger on it though..
Su: Drive to Southwold for funeral the next day...
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Isn't Bin Ladens 6C? ;)
Where do you get that from?
Thats what Dolly said when we were on it...
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Isn't Bin Ladens 6C? ;)
Where do you get that from?
Thats what Dolly said when we were on it...
Hero
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Isn't Bin Ladens 6C? ;)
Where do you get that from?
Thats what Dolly said when we were on it...
They were on it but couldn't do it at 6c :lol:
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Its 7a (cough) still cant fucking do it.
Anyway...
M A few easy routes at the gym - just because smallest daughter was swimming as I was battered from Beastmaker the day before
T Core class at the gym. Hard. Followed by kettlebells and throwing a heavy ball onto the floor a lot
W Shed. Just power/fun
T Beastmaker again. Its knackering when you really try. For some reason decided it would be good to top off at the gym with a few easy routes, but I was battered. I just wanted an excuse to go in the sauna really.
F Easy walk in Eccy Woods with the boss. Went to Wigan to watch another less than inspiring performance by Wednesday but it was good fun. As it horizontal snow on the Snake summit at 11:30 I thought there would be no chance of climbing
S Should have gone out with Shark and Seb but I thought it would be wet. Went to Burbage North which was dry. Opened my account on Zaff S - fuck that feels hard. Had a quick play on Cofe's new problem Pincer until I had to let go with my right hand. Then went on Blind Fig where I actually concentrated rather than just throwing on. Made progress and I feel like I coudl actually get somewhere, but it needs to be cold for me to get somewhere and I felt like I needed a spot.
S Gym core and medicine ball slam burpees -yep really.
Funny week as the weather was shite apart from Saturday and it co-incided with the end of dry January (TBH that had happened the week before when the mother in law arrived and I self medicated with beer, wine and gin)
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Planned light week for me last week. Felt pretty weak on Thursday's session for some reason, 3 rest days felt like too much... Felt strong on yesterday's night session, back to the higer volume of training this week.
M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Lunch - 50 Crunches (+5kg)
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises to bar
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises to bar
50 Crunches (+5kg)
T: Plas Power - 2 x 8 min on 2min off LI-AeroCap
Max Hangs
Open crimp - 20mm edge - 3 x 10s (3min rest)
Half crimp - 25mm edge - 3 x 10s (3min rest)
Board - Figured out a good last couple of moves for project, had 2 goes from the start and fell off on move 6 twice. Problem is 8 moves in total.
AnCap - 7 x 12moves (2mins rest between reps)
Powered out on rep 7.
Didn't realise the time so couldn't complete 8th rep.
F: Rest
S: Rest
S: Minera Bouldering night session - Esoteric local limestone boulder, never been before and really impressed. Flashed "Warhammer" (6B) and did Danny Cattell's "Siani Blewog" (6C+) in a few goes, great moves. Had a bunch of goes on "Ned's Arete" (6C+), did all the moves but the slopey pinches were in bad condition, moisture in the air and everything was slowly freezing over.
Keen to go back to try the 7A+ and DC's 7B/+.
Hi Luke, where is the 7B/+ problem you mentioned please?
Alec
Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk
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Hi Luke, where is the 7B/+ problem you mentioned please?
Alec
Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk
Hey Alec, I've sent you a PM.
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Its 7a (cough) still cant fucking do it.
Zero
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Sleep: ok, been taking the melatolin this week, and lots of time in bed, but started waking in the night again though which is shit.
I found melatonin helped for a while, but it's effectiveness wore off over time (maybe your body produces less if supplement it, like eye drops).
I am usually falling asleep in a book by about 11 and either wake at about 3 or so, then toss and turn for a couple of hours before getting to sleep or wake at about 5 am for the day.
Things I find help;
1) Exercise during the day, even if a lunchtime walk. Some sunshine seems to help (if there is any).
2) No exercise at all for the hour before bed. Some people recommend 2, but very hard to achieve. Exception is a hard wall session, which I usually finish by 10, always affects my sleep.
3) No coffee after midday, no tea after 4, no drinks after tea. Otherwise I need to get up for a piss and then I'm screwed.
4) Don't get in the habit of switching on phone or iPad when you wake up, I think your brain expects the stimulation at that time so you will get woken up by it.
5) No screentime before bed, not even a Kindle. Read a novel preferably.
Good luck, hope you get over it.
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S. Weather looked iffy. Headed out with Seb. Turned out to be a lovely day. Started at Moorside Rocks (not been before) and did the tricky 6b left arete. Also did Charlotte Dumpling to where it gets spicy and jumped off. Moved on to start of Gardoms (again that end new to me) and did G-Thang and teh sitter at 6C/+ which was great. Moved on to Suavito 7B which was amazing but frustrating. I couldnt quite reach the left hand sidehold. Seb got close with his hand on top. Then moved on to quest for Bin Ladens Cave 7A. Fortunately found it. Mossy and wet on top which made it intersting. We both got it about 3rd or 4th go. Another great problem. Good to get new crag ticks in and always entertaining to go out with Seb. Overall a superb day out.
If you ho back to Suavito the beta for that move is to really squeeze the arete and kind of push off your right thumb muscle, simultaneously with really driving through your left leg, consciously keeping a lot of body tension. Makes the left hand ctimp suddenly seem a lot closer.
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Sleep: ok, been taking the melatolin this week, and lots of time in bed, but started waking in the night again though which is shit.
I found melatonin helped for a while, but it's effectiveness wore off over time (maybe your body produces less if supplement it, like eye drops).
I am usually falling asleep in a book by about 11 and either wake at about 3 or so, then toss and turn for a couple of hours before getting to sleep or wake at about 5 am for the day.
Things I find help;
1) Exercise during the day, even if a lunchtime walk. Some sunshine seems to help (if there is any).
2) No exercise at all for the hour before bed. Some people recommend 2, but very hard to achieve. Exception is a hard wall session, which I usually finish by 10, always affects my sleep.
3) No coffee after midday, no tea after 4, no drinks after tea. Otherwise I need to get up for a piss and then I'm screwed.
4) Don't get in the habit of switching on phone or iPad when you wake up, I think your brain expects the stimulation at that time so you will get woken up by it.
5) No screentime before bed, not even a Kindle. Read a novel preferably.
Good luck, hope you get over it.
Cheers Chris, I've not actually taken the Melatolin much - sleep improved almost immediately after I bought it back in the Autumn without me even taking any! The last week and a half is the only time I've consistently had it.
I get up at 630 for work, so if I lose a couple of hours in the middle of the night I'd need to be in bed before 9 every day to get what I'm "supposed to", and I'm not willing to give up that much of my life!
Re your list -
1) I had got into a habit of dozing in the car at lunchtime, but decided after a bit of reading this week that this was probably making things worse overnight so been for a bit of a walk the last couple of days - not much execise but gets some fresh air/sunlight and rests the eyes from screens all day.
2) Pretty good at this - I'm at the wall a lot of evenings, but reckon it's at least 90min mostly between that and bed, I try to finish before 9.
3) Follow pretty similar rule - no caffeine after midday (bar the other week!), though happy to drink after dinner.
4) I'm very bad at this - need to improve discipline
5) bad at this too - though it's very rare I have problems dropping off in the evening, so as with 2) I'm not so worried about it
FWIW I had a great night last night, 8.5 hrs in bed, 8 hrs asleep, woke once I was aware of in the night and only very briefly. Hoping the fresh air at lunch has helped.
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My threepence is (in no particular order):
a) install flux on all your puters/phones
b) no training/thinking about climbing in the few hours before bd
c) no bullshit lying in/snooze buttons - when you're up you're up
d) get a piss bottle (5L so its got a wide enough neck). People may laugh or think its gross, but it means you can take a piss without really waking up properly/turning any lights on. I fall back to sleep so much better with this.
e) teaspoon or two of glycine before bed, nice stodgy complex carbs before bed
f) make sure your room is dark and COVER YOUR CLOCK so you cant see it when you wake up in the night. No checking of the time etc.
g) dont stress about not sleeping - you can only do so much
h) sedating antihistamines at bedtime (chlorphenamine, promethazine, or better doxylamine if you can get it)
i) if all else fails drop the Holy Trinity
also, if you're not on any meds which interact, you might want to try some 5htp, or supplement with tryptophan or what not. Petejh said he slept better on cissus quadrasomething
I don't like to be helpful if I can help it, but I sympathize as not sleeping is totally balls.
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I find thinking about climbing helps me get to sleep. I go on an almscliff circuit in my head and normally drop off before I leave the warm ups :)
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If I'm unable to sleep I take my pulse - lie and get comfy then start counting while watching the clock (having an old-skool radio-alarm with bright red LED display likely helps with this). Do 3-5 minutes restarting the count every minute then settle down again. Seems counterintuitive prepping for sleep having your eyes open but it works really well for me.
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Nothing to report on the training front but on the sleep thing...besides the facetious answer of (if you don't already have any of course) "have kids", as a reformed terrible sleeper I found a few of these helped.
Obvious stuff:
No booze at all - just had a month off the beer and have slept brilliantly pretty much every night
No caffeine after a certain time (I'm fine if I stop at around mid-afternoon)
Get a proper, paper book and read it before bed, ideally (for me) for about 30 mins to an hour before sleep time and ideally (for me) with some restful music / white noise (see below) on headphones
Other stuff that may work:
I heard bananas and Marmite (presumably not consumed in the same dish) contain some chemical with is good for inducing sleep
Count backwards from 100 to 0 in your head, ideally in the most boring voice you can imagine...I've heard this is a tip from a Paul McKenna book, but this genuinely works for me. If I ever get to zero I start over, and skip 3 each time (so 100, 97, 94 etc). I read somewhere you need something that is enough cognitive effort to distract from the insomnia, but not so much it keeps you awake achieving the task
White noise - tons of apps out there but I use Calm, or before that I used to just run a plain old desk fan at the wall by the bed
Set your alarm (especially if you do it on a phone) well before bed - that "god I've only got x hours until I have to get up again" feeling is a guaranteed trigger for me
If all else fails, the only thing that never failed for me was Diazepam for the short while I was on it. Pretty moreish though.
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S. Weather looked iffy. Headed out with Seb. Turned out to be a lovely day. Started at Moorside Rocks (not been before) and did the tricky 6b left arete. Also did Charlotte Dumpling to where it gets spicy and jumped off. Moved on to start of Gardoms (again that end new to me) and did G-Thang and teh sitter at 6C/+ which was great. Moved on to Suavito 7B which was amazing but frustrating. I couldnt quite reach the left hand sidehold. Seb got close with his hand on top. Then moved on to quest for Bin Ladens Cave 7A. Fortunately found it. Mossy and wet on top which made it intersting. We both got it about 3rd or 4th go. Another great problem. Good to get new crag ticks in and always entertaining to go out with Seb. Overall a superb day out.
If you ho back to Suavito the beta for that move is to really squeeze the arete and kind of push off your right thumb muscle, simultaneously with really driving through your left leg, consciously keeping a lot of body tension. Makes the left hand ctimp suddenly seem a lot closer.
How tall are you? You look quite tall in your videos. I'm 5.9 with no ape index. It felt hard to generate any momentum or drive as I'm so stretched out. Weighing up whether a return session tomorrow with Seb would be a waste of time
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I go on an almscliff circuit in my head and normally drop off before I leave the warm ups :)
Just like in real life then, can't even manage the warm-ups!
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I heard bananas and Marmite (presumably not consumed in the same dish)
That's my girlfriend's favourite sandwich filling :blink: Ironically she used to be a terrible sleeper. Her problem was fixed by changing jobs.
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If all else fails, the only thing that never failed for me was Diazepam for the short while I was on it. Pretty moreish though.
Therein lies the rub, waaaay too nice.
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Maybe it could be useful for non sleepers to split this thread?
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Weighing up whether a return session tomorrow with Seb would be a waste of time
Keen to try this, give us a shout if you do.
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Weighing up whether a return session tomorrow with Seb would be a waste of time
Keen to try this, give us a shout if you do.
If you do the move I'll have no excuse
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I'm 5.9 with no ape index.
Everyone has an ape index. Just that yours is zero. (climb grow faster..)
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also, if you're not on any meds which interact, you might want to try some 5htp, or supplement with tryptophan or what not. Petejh said he slept better on cissus quadrasomething
I stopped taking that after a month experiment last year but yeah I think it did send me off.
I don't really struggle with sleep but still do some of the things in 39's list - f.lux, cover alarm clock so can't see the time, make room as dark as poss and cool, no phones/computers in bedroom, no caffeine after early afternoon. Booze defo distrubs my sleep, no question about it.
[anecdotal]I think zinc in the diet may help[/anecdotal]
I stopped using a piss bottle when I stopped living in a bush in the army.
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I'm 5.9 with no ape index.
Everyone has an ape index. Just that yours is zero
Your name Slackline?
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39, Chris, ttt, et al - thanks for all the suggestions.
Given I don't have any trouble dropping off initially, just getting back to sleep when I wake in the night, I'm discounting some of these (ie f.lux, seems pointless if I avoid looking at phone overnight), is this wrong?
The booze one I may have to consider - had a couple sunday night and was awake a couple of hours overnight, nothing monday eve and slept great, couple last night and had another couple of hours awake.
Sorry for moaning, I'm aware that I'm not getting that little sleep, and lots of folk survive on much less.
(had marmite mon eve and not last night now I come to think of it...)
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Booze is supposed to help you get to sleep but then fuck up your sleep architecture.
Just dont drink, its really easy.
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S. Weather looked iffy. Headed out with Seb. Turned out to be a lovely day. Started at Moorside Rocks (not been before) and did the tricky 6b left arete. Also did Charlotte Dumpling to where it gets spicy and jumped off. Moved on to start of Gardoms (again that end new to me) and did G-Thang and teh sitter at 6C/+ which was great. Moved on to Suavito 7B which was amazing but frustrating. I couldnt quite reach the left hand sidehold. Seb got close with his hand on top. Then moved on to quest for Bin Ladens Cave 7A. Fortunately found it. Mossy and wet on top which made it intersting. We both got it about 3rd or 4th go. Another great problem. Good to get new crag ticks in and always entertaining to go out with Seb. Overall a superb day out.
If you ho back to Suavito the beta for that move is to really squeeze the arete and kind of push off your right thumb muscle, simultaneously with really driving through your left leg, consciously keeping a lot of body tension. Makes the left hand ctimp suddenly seem a lot closer.
How tall are you? You look quite tall in your videos. I'm 5.9 with no ape index. It felt hard to generate any momentum or drive as I'm so stretched out. Weighing up whether a return session tomorrow with Seb would be a waste of time
Shark, I'm just under 5'9", I do this move with a really high LF (where his LF is here (http://peakbouldering.info/photos/94)), almost rocking up onto it. needs a bit of contact strength to catch though, and I have pretty good hip flexibility.
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Booze is supposed to help you get to sleep but then fuck up your sleep architecture.
Just dont drink, its really easy.
;D :lol: :o :alky:
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I'm 5.9 with no ape index.
Everyone has an ape index. Just that yours is zero
Your name Slackline?
Slackers is offline for upgrading. P.Bot's a temporary solution.
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I'm 5.9 with no ape index.
Vitruvian Man Shark.
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I'm 5.9 with no ape index.
Vitruvian Man Shark.
If only I had four arms too
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Shark, I'm just under 5'9", I do this move with a really high LF (where his LF is here (http://peakbouldering.info/photos/94)), almost rocking up onto it. needs a bit of contact strength to catch though, and I have pretty good hip flexibility.
Ta
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Monday: Can't remember. Obviously nothing too exciting. Maybe a hike of some kind.
Tuesday: Deadlifts at lunchtime and bouldering in the PM. Pretty good session.
Wednesday: Again, nothing memorable, but probably a hike of some kind or a short hangboard session.
Thursday: Deadlifts at lunchtime (up to 160kgs YYFY!) and bouldering in the PM. Tired session, not feeling brilliant.
Friday: 40 min hike
Saturday: Hungover bouldering, followed by weights (cleans, bench-presses) and hangboarding (mainly dicking about on the BM slopers).
Sunday: Rest day. Feeling worked.
Not the greatest week. Felt pretty tired through it - possibly the volume of training and poor sleep has been catching up with me. Sunday felt like a relatively necessary day off.
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Shark, I'm just under 5'9", I do this move with a really high LF (where his LF is here (http://peakbouldering.info/photos/94)), almost rocking up onto it. needs a bit of contact strength to catch though, and I have pretty good hip flexibility.
Ta
Demonstrated beautifully by Mina at 44 minutes in Life On Hold.
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5) bad at this too - though it's very rare I have problems dropping off in the evening, so as with 2) I'm not so worried about it
FWIW I had a great night last night, 8.5 hrs in bed, 8 hrs asleep, woke once I was aware of in the night and only very briefly. Hoping the fresh air at lunch has helped.
[/quote]
Still, apparently it can alter your brainwaves / stimulation and even if you fall asleep OK it can affect your sleep patterns.
And 8.5 hours - I can but dream (actually not much time for that). 6.5 is good for me.
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Mon. Bike 71.06 miles 4 hrs 25 mins.
Tue. 30 warm up problems then repeaters 5 secs on 5 off x 5 5 sets with 36.5 lbs added.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Board did a couple of new things before taking an absolute pisser in to garage wall. Might need to start wearing a helmet. Did a project I had spent a couple of sessions on.
Turbo 1 hour.
Fri. Bike 71.82 miles 4 hrs 14 mins.
Sat. Nothing.
Sun. Board. Did a couple of new things including one I couldn't do Thursday but failed to repeat one of thursdays problems. Repeaters 5 secs on 5 off x 5 3 sets with 39.25 added.
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Had another session on Suavito yesterday. Got my left foot high on the right side of the large sloping foothold but was too bunched up to rock out left to the sidehold. Tried other footholds below it but they are too rubbish to use.
Tried again with low left foot and managed to generate enough momentum to get the distance to reach for the sidehold but my left foot comes off as Im within grabbing distance (see below) and my contact speed/strength is too poor to compensate
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/695/32005351443_8b012fca2e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/QLcMWc)suavito (https://flic.kr/p/QLcMWc) by TheUKBShark (https://www.flickr.com/photos/64358048@N03/), on Flickr
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Another speed issue.
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Unfortunately iirc it's harder higher up...
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no it's not
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I didn't have a problem with that move (height I suspect) but dropped going for the top and getting set for going for the top... but that's me not Shark..
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I'm with Tomtom here...
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How tall are you? Can see that the move to the sidepull must be easier if you can do it off the low foot. Still surprised you find it harder than the top, which felt fine if you commit to it.
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How tall are you? Can see that the move to the sidepull must be easier if you can do it off the low foot. Still surprised you find it harder than the top, which felt fine if you commit to it.
I'm 5ft11 with short arms. I linked all the moves but the top in a session, but then the top move took me 4 sessions more (and one injured heel), even from pulling on half way up. Most people I've seen on it during it in those sessions find the top move to be easily the hardest, but perhaps not as extremely as me. Admittedly though I've seen one strong short guy struggle on the move out left and then flash the top - so I know it's not universal! (Maybe that was you.)
To be fair, I think it's just because they are a very different style of move. I found it desperate to keep my heel on the arete, I could hit the top easily but then always swung off. Simon might be better at that body movement.
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I'm 1.88m or 6ft3.. so taller enough (sorry) to use a different shark sequence. A short friend (shorter to shark) has to jump across to the lh and hold it with both feet off... powerful move.
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Shit! I bashed my heel coming off the top move last time I tried it!
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1.88m is 6'2".
Regards
Moose (1.91m, 6'3")
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1.88m is 6'2".
Regards
Moose (1.91m, 6'3")
:D I'll have to re-measure.
What age do you start getting shorter?