UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Ged on November 23, 2016, 10:46:47 pm
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I'm sure at some point I've reason here about the Anderson brothers repeaters routine. Anyone care to explain what it is? I think somebody posted a pic of page from
Their book once but I can't seem to
Find it. From what I remember, quite high intensity and fewer reps (4 ish?).
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Is THis PATRuL ?
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Been on the wine again Shark?
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Sorry typed it on my phone and kept accidentally pressing return
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I posted that page but can't find it again either.
They specify 7 reps as a baseline, 4 reps was something I experimented with for strength (rather than strength endurance) and saw decent gains, especially when cycled with max hangs.
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These two should cover it:
http://www.trango.com/Images/Tabs/User%20Guides/RPTC%20Mounting%20and%20Training%20Instructions.pdf
https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2012/08/30/hangboard-faq-0-what-is-a-basic-hangboard-routine/
One rep = 10s on - 5 off for beginners or 7 on - 3 off for intermediate/advanced.
3 sets, 7 reps in the first set, 6 in the second set, 5 in the third set.
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How does this differ from the Beastmaker repeaters?:
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I keep looking at this thread title thinking it's about the Lee Anderson method of fingerboarding aka pinky mono swinging.
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I keep looking at this thread title thinking it's about the Lee Anderson method of fingerboarding aka pinky mono swinging.
I heard he's off monos.
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From memory, the Anderson routine is:
Coffee (do not pay)
Sarcasm/ sceptical chat
Fingerboarding (remember to wiggle finger)
Baked beans for lunch
Walk to obscure venue to look at 8A problem, in the hope it might be crimp-crimp-top
Express disappointment
Chinese takeaway for tea
Watch Shogun
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How does this differ from the Beastmaker repeaters?:
By about 5 font grades?
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From memory, the Anderson routine is:
Coffee (do not pay)
Sarcasm/ sceptical chat
Fingerboarding (remember to wiggle finger)
Baked beans for lunch
Walk to obscure venue to look at 8A problem, in the hope it might be crimp-crimp-top
Express disappointment
Chinese takeaway for tea
Watch Shogun
So good.
If only there was some sort of system whereby you could be rewarded in a modest yet visible manner.
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I keep looking at this thread title thinking it's about the Lee Anderson method of fingerboarding aka pinky mono swinging.
I heard he's off monos.
Likes a slot you can get at least 4 fingers into...
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Cheers, and from memory you increase the weight slightly as the reps go down?
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From memory, the Anderson routine is:
Coffee (do not pay)
Sarcasm/ sceptical chat
Fingerboarding (remember to wiggle finger)
Baked beans for lunch
Walk to obscure venue to look at 8A problem, in the hope it might be crimp-crimp-top
Express disappointment
Chinese takeaway for tea
Watch Shogun
:2thumbsup: SoHandsome
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From memory, the Anderson routine is:
Coffee (do not pay)
Sarcasm/ sceptical chat
Fingerboarding (remember to wiggle finger)
Baked beans for lunch
Walk to obscure venue to look at 8A problem, in the hope it might be crimp-crimp-top
Express disappointment
Chinese takeaway for tea
Watch Shogun
contender for post of the year
So good.
If only there was some sort of system whereby you could be rewarded in a modest yet visible manner.