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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: shark on November 06, 2016, 06:36:22 pm

Title: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: shark on November 06, 2016, 06:36:22 pm

10.12-11.0

M. PM. With reports of baking conditions at Malham agreed with Mina to sack off going Tuesday Headed into the shed and bouldered then did a PE session on systems board. Scores marginally improved on last week

T. PM Foundry Wave. 3.5hours. Monster session for me. Worked white and black spots (7A?) on left side of steep section and did it after dropping last move three times. Also repeated yellow black (7A?). and a few level 2s. Felt I was climbing really well

W.

T.

F. Malham. Up with Paul, Steve, Haydn and Steve the pro. Crag astonishingly dry. Cold when cloudy hot with the sun out.  Made it hard to time redpoints – at least not humid. Shut down on the route. Didn’t even make it as far as the throw. Maybe not fully recovered from Tuesday but even so. Glum scenes. No point going back till the Spring  :'(

S. AM CragX. Dry as a bone. Mint conditions. Started working the top of JR. Heel toe worked a treat to match rail but next move to pinchy hold still sketchy. Experimented with various alternative footholds and in end reverted to original but found that a hip thrust made all the difference. Too tired by then to try the whole problem. Still only seem to be able to catch the pinch hold with front two rather than three but can do the next moves with just two so that’s ok. Eve Went to a party in Birmingham and stopped over

S. Bit rough. Late PM Foundry AeroCap on autobelay

Devastated that now Malham is finally coming into good condition that I'm too burnt out to make the most of it. Will draw up a training plan this week. Going to do whatever it takes this winter to crush it in the Spring. 

Don’t seem to be shaking off swollen finger joints especially mid finger of left hand. 

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: mic_b on November 06, 2016, 07:04:51 pm

Don't sack off the Oak Simon! I only read power club to see if you have done it yet. Surely just take 2/3 days proper rest and then take advatange of the cold weather and dry crag.

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: fried on November 06, 2016, 07:15:33 pm

Cheeers Shark

M- Drove back from the centre of France.
T - Slept badly, but it's a bank holiday, so I went to Rocher du Potala to tick off some sub 6s. Predictably enough I climbed like a sack of potatoes, every problem consisted of 2 razor sharp crimps and no footholds. Grey and miserable. Haven't had a bad session in a while, get stuck in tons of crap, accident ridden traffic on the way home. Should've stayed in bed.

W/ Th - Nothing

F- Indoor, excellent session, felt so much better on a lot of steeper stuff, ticked 2x '6B', one that I'd been working since it seemed impossible to fairly easy.

Sa - Friend visited, played tunes and drank red wine until the early hours...
Su - Fragile, climbed onto the sofa and stayed there all day.

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: shark on November 06, 2016, 08:04:41 pm

Quote from: mic_b on November 06, 2016, 07:04:51 pm

Don't sack off the Oak Simon! I only read power club to see if you have done it yet. Surely just take 2/3 days proper rest and then take advatange of the cold weather and dry crag.

Hi Mick,

Thanks for your interest. The last couple of sessions have been dismal. I dont understand why I am physically so weak on it now. My other training sessions and bouldering sessions have been going OK. If Id had one go getting through the horn move in the last two sessions that would have given me enough hope to carry on. My psyche levels also need to be high to have effective redpoint goes and I'm just crushed now. Just not enjoying it any more over the last three sessions.   

Simon

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: Muenchener on November 06, 2016, 08:13:30 pm

STG: Get to the top of a moonboard by any means whatsoever.
MTG (Spring 2017): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: rest
T:   Public holiday in Bavaria, and glorious autumn sunshine in München & points south. So we cunningly drove north to Hanslberg, a nice little sport crag overlooking the Danube - where everything for miles around was blanketed in thick, freezing fog.  :'(
   Drove around a bit to check out a couple of other crags in the area for future reference, then spent the afternoon at the Regensburg branch of Boulderwelt.
W:
T:
F: Boulderwelt with M jnr. Back on home ground at München West for the first time in a couple of weeks, ticked a multi-week project first go of the day and made significant progress on a couple of others. Good session.
S: The lad wanted to go plane-spotting at the airport. 2½ hours bike ride along the river to get there on a pleasant autumn morning.
S: Boulderwelt with M jnr. Body tension seems to be improving: I have a move on a project where until today I've always swung off after my feet cut. Today I stuck it three times with my feet on well in control. And strung four moves together on a moonboard "6B+". Another good session.
 Half a dozen circuits afterwards to start easing back into a bit of aerocap training.

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: nai on November 06, 2016, 09:26:55 pm

goals - 
winter - end of season dregs through Nov combined with a training block focussing on strength.  Then pretty much just training with a few grit outings.

2017 - 6x7c-8a routes, 8a+, 7c onsight, E6.


M - 3x10 mins LI AeroCap

T - base FB session 2

W - first time at eatswood trying the traverse. Just about worked out all the moves, exiting the kneebar and matching the final rail proving most problematic and taking up most of the session.  Enjoyed it, pretty psyched to get stuck into it.

Th 15km mtb

Fri - car packed with a sea of foam, flask filled and lunch made. All set for a return to eatswood to iron out the rail match and get some links done. Then 20 minutes before school opens a message arrives saying they have no water and it's shut for the day.  Spent the day in a bit of a huff.

FB base session 3 in the evening.

S HI AeroCap

S rest

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: petejh on November 06, 2016, 09:40:16 pm

STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), in July October, November
MTG:
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Redpointing phase.

M. Sports massage, painful! Had built up quite an impressive selection of knots.
T. Tor. Mecca sesh 9. Cold and crisp, great connies. Feeling strong on the razor hold, slightly new foot position and throwing for groove with left foot out left way. Start and trav no probs now although I didn't try any significant linkage.
W. Hip/glute stretches.
T. Couldn't find a partner for the Tor. Pilbox ming and raining. Ended up on plan c - a long bouldering sesh in the Beacon. Pretty decent sesh with a few harder things sent but not what I want to be doing now.
F.
S.
S. Again couldn't find a partner for the Tor. Infuriating. Tried pilbox and lasted 30 minutes in the drizzle and wind. Manged drop-down to crimp move on Milenium 5 times in row. Slunk home. Did a core sesh and then a ketllebell sesh.


Maddening to be feeling strong and making progress each time I get on Mecca but unable to get a partner for the last two sessions. Only been on the route 3 times in two weeks, should have been 5. Think I've left it too late in the year. Fucking hate redpointing at times like this, feels like a lot of wasted months despite knowing I've improved.

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: Murph on November 06, 2016, 09:51:41 pm

Stg-Train consistently. Weight control. Easy ticks.
Mtg-Advanced Training.
Ltg-Bigger better stronger faster. Some big ticks at Rubicon.
Wishlist-Piss, SotG, AT, Tsunami, 147

M-work
T-short session on AT. Fell off the top hold another two times.
W-work
T-work
F-kids
S-AT in the morning. Have posted a NNFN about this which, in the wider context, was perhaps a little melodramatic. But it is frustrating to fail something for purely mental reasons.
S-A bit of contemplation over what next. Struggling a bit to balance work, family, and projecting. Have decided to make space a few times a week to do a bit of strength training following the main movement patterns. Had let stuff slide recently with all that obsessing over AT which meant saving skin and not training in the misguided belief that it needed just one more go.
Today's baby steps:
Goblet squats, kettlebell swings & press ups (boy am I weak!)
Beastmaker - 10 second 3 finger hangs off the 18mm edge with +4kgs, +8kgs, +12kgs, +16kgs, +20kgs, +24kgs and then +28kgs for 9 seconds.

Weight - getting out of hand. Topped out at 65.2kgs this morning. 2.7kgs above target.

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: Duma on November 06, 2016, 10:06:11 pm

Goals:
Good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power?)and 8b by next June

Body Audit: pretty much clear.

Sleep really good atm, hopefully over the worst, touch wood.

M: TCA eve, only had 40 mins, but fun little session on the finals problems from saturdays comp - did all the girls and got sequence on 2 of the mens, no ticks though (~7hrs)
T: Nothing (~7.5hrs)
W: TCA eve, went round comp problems - did okish, slipped off an easy one dropped the finish of a hard one. Finished one of the finals probs too. (~7.5hrs)
T: Nothing, EOFT - Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll is amazing (~8hrs)
F: Day off, mostly taken up with buying new car, got an hour at the wall in aft though - Mothership reset so did everything up to 7A+, failed on everything harder. Then drive to peak (~7.5hrs)
S: Lots of rain previous day so aimed fro Burbage - South to begin with, but was pretty grim in the wind and then soaked by brief shower, so wandered up to North - really pleased to get Giza 2nd go, very much prime nick today! Amazing dinner in the Red Lion in Litton after. (~7hrs)
S: Churnet, Gentlemans, Pegusus seemed a bit soft, not sure if I went from right holds, fun move though. Pleased to do 50p problem too, great hold and name, nice pop to finish too. stopped in at Virgin Wall on way back, Enjoyed the easy central section, thoroughly spanked attempting the LH extension. Drive back to Bristol. (?hrs)

Another easy week, need to be putting a bit more time at the wall next week. Fun weekend though.

69kg

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: moose on November 06, 2016, 10:10:12 pm

Quote from: shark on November 06, 2016, 08:04:41 pm

Quote from: mic_b on November 06, 2016, 07:04:51 pm

Don't sack off the Oak Simon! I only read power club to see if you have done it yet. Surely just take 2/3 days proper rest and then take advatange of the cold weather and dry crag.

Hi Mick,

Thanks for your interest. The last couple of sessions have been dismal. I dont understand why I am physically so weak on it now. My other training sessions and bouldering sessions have been going OK. If Id had one go getting through the horn move in the last two sessions that would have given me enough hope to carry on. My psyche levels also need to be high to have effective redpoint goes and I'm just crushed now. Just not enjoying it any more over the last three sessions.   

Simon

Sad to hear it fella.  I think it's highly plausible that you're overreacting to the consequences of arriving at the crag already tired.  If my own experience is any guide, how tired you feel is often a poor guide to how well you can climb.  I've felt pretty broken since late July (consequence of using up a load of holiday time in May/June departing from my normal "weekend warrior" routine) but despite feeling like I needed a months bed-rest, I seemed to climb as well as ever for the next 3-4 months.  Sacking off climbing for a good 5 days and arriving fresh on a day with good conditions could be worth a go.

We shall now have a poetic interlude, courtesy of Tennyson:

We are not now that strength which in old days
Moved earth and heaven, that which we are, we are;
One equal temper of heroic hearts,
Made weak by time and fate, but strong in will
To strive, to seek, to find, and not to yield.

That said, I entirely sympathise if the main factor is the mental tiredness.  It is hard to try hard for long.  I have had a pretty good season all told but being on RP for months at a time has now resulted in a breed of "combat fatigue" - a twitchy combination of apathy and nerves that spells the end: the mojo has plummetted and I have stopped caring - only capable of going through the motions sufficiently to tick stuff I don't care about.  Put me in a box full of straw to hibernate over winter..... or failing that, I'll just pootle about bouldering for a few months (went to Craig y Longridge today.... crag to myself, free to have a quick climb or read my book according to my whims, God it was... nice).

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: shark on November 06, 2016, 10:46:26 pm

Thanks moose

I have tried to regain the form of a few weeks ago and regained a bit but I feel like I'm scraping the bottom of the performance barrel. Even on the warm goes when there is no pressure its obvious I am a level below where I need to be. I'd rather go bouldering and it also makes sense to start building towards next Spring. It's not that far away

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: Catcheemonkey on November 06, 2016, 11:04:42 pm

Quote from: moose on November 06, 2016, 10:10:12 pm

We shall now have a poetic interlude, courtesy of Tennyson

I may be a bit of a lurker round these parts, but l love the range of references on this forum.

Moose, I'd wad you if I wasn't a newb.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: shurt on November 07, 2016, 12:09:57 am

Shark, for the love of Power Club, sort it out please. You can't let one bad session ruin your motivation. We are all counting on you (no pressure!!).

stg: some rock action, hopefully near the end of the month
mtg: more rock action
ltg: same old 8a, 7B, E4 or higher   

m: nothing
t: good session on new monkey bars - 3 x 5 pull ups, some back and forth and about 5 or 6 muscle ups
w: 3 sets on fingerboard
t: 3 sets on fingerboard
f: 2 x 5 pull ups
s: nothing
s: managed a bit more on the monkey bars whilst at park with son - some pull ups and a few muscle ups, bit of back and forth

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: Teaboy on November 07, 2016, 02:28:25 am

Quote from: habrich on November 07, 2016, 02:13:41 am

If conditions are still good you might as well keep putting in the burns. Perhaps you could start working something else at Malham but sneak in a few low-expectation tries on the Oak when your ego is distracted?

+1

If you need to drop something from your schedule why not drop the training (and drop weight if you can) and just go on the route, it works for others and I bet it's worked for you in the past? You probably won't get it but you definitely won't if you're not on the route, it'll probably be wet in a couple of weeks so your only delaying the start of your new training plan by a small amount.

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: shark on November 07, 2016, 08:59:16 am

Thanks for the encouragement. As a recap it's not 1 session of underperformance but 4. On the 10th and 13th oct I peaked getting through the horn move from the ground twice and in fact also did 2nd bolt to the top on the 10th Oct. The following week on the 17th I got through the horn move only once and not done that since. On the warm up go I am unable to link horn to top whereas before that was a breeze. I have already dug myself into a hole. My fingers are constantly swollen and my back is starting to play up and my psyche is low which are all signs of having overcooked things. I'll think about it and if someone is going up Friday and it's dry perhaps I'll go but it will be without hope or expectation

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: dave on November 07, 2016, 09:04:38 am

Quote from: shark on November 06, 2016, 10:46:26 pm

.... I am a level below where I need to be. I'd rather go bouldering and it also makes sense to start building towards next Spring.

Listen to this guy, get to a reliable font 7b level and you'll smash it come spring.

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: T_B on November 07, 2016, 09:12:05 am

M - Foundry lunch. Wave - attempting 4 x 4s on L2s. Bit too hard, falling off on rep 4. Thought I might have blown it for Tues.
T - Lamp session. Really cold 1degC. Tor, v close on U/cut-Sloper trying it with the proper start i.e. starting both hands in the break (how people can live with themselves ticking this with just one hand in the break or even none is beyond me  :lol:). Anyway, hit the jug a couple of times but didn't hold it. I've always found this move knacky/desperate, so good progress for me. Went to Sean's. Pulled onto first move of Working 9-5 stand and it felt desperate. Had a quick look at PoB. Went back to W95, then realised I could do the rest of it more easily than when I tried it in the summer, partly due to some key beta from Joe Heeley. Did the first move, punted the big move left, then a few goes later did it. Chuffed as my only 7C+ this year.
W -
T - F/Board - lunch. Testing 1, 2 , 3. Managed 2 x 6 x 7 Half-crimp, 2mins30secs rest on nice new edge, 10 secs hangs on middle two of BM #12 (x 3, but with long rests), 10 secs hang of front 3 and back 3 on #10 of BM. P.M. Rings with R and Nic
F - DOMS from skinning the cat
S - Had 3 hours in the am, warmed up on f/board and headed to Mossatrocity. Tried this briefly some years ago and tweaked my wrist on it warming up. Thought it might be an easy-ish tick. Anyway, did all the moves apart from the last one and generally got it sussed but couldn't work out how to do the final move. Going again with left feeling too pulley on hammy and left smear too high. Headed to Secret Garden where it was hot, did all moves on LH Man apart from the first one.
S -

I'm flippin heavy - over 87Kg since effectively stopping running this past month. Probably need to do something about that!

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: Coops_13 on November 07, 2016, 09:15:41 am

STG: Heal elbow in time for Font
MTG: Climb in Font if elbow allows/get Zippy's when back
LTG: 8A

M: Went for a fingerboard session, left arm felt very weak with ulnar nerve setting off
T: Spoke to a doc who said I should have x ray to rule out any bony impingement of nerve, booked doctors for Friday
W:
T:
F: Saw doc, was confident elbow wasn't as bad as feared and that with rest I should be ok for Font in two weeks. Had x-ray at Guy's, all normal
S:
S: Squash, lost to housemate 7-1 :(

Been eating crap and drinking lots while resting, need to eat well again so stay lightish for Font in two weeks. At least the elbow doesn't sound like it's as bad as feared  :smirk:

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: Nibile on November 07, 2016, 09:19:22 am

Shark,
stick at it. There's no reason not to leep going there as long as the route is in condition. Performance level varies a lot, you know, and often in an unpredictable way.
You never know, until you go.
Sack the training, rest, keep trying the route.

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: T_B on November 07, 2016, 09:21:39 am

Shark - sack it off for this season.

Seriously, I don't know why everyone wants you to keep banging your head against the wall. At best you'll get even more depressed, at worst, you'll injure yourself.

Take a short break, re-group and set out an effective training plan. Do some pottering on the grit. Wait for the mojo to return.

Who the F climbs their hardest ever route with no mojo?!

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: measles23 on November 07, 2016, 09:36:19 am

Shark it's been humbling watching you and Nick hit the wall on your respective projects - the honesty and openness make for top quality reporting - I agree with T_B and think sack it off until mojo back..

GRUESOME ALERT - DO NOT READ THIS OVER BREAKFAST!!

Where to start..

M - work

T - nice session on Back to Black; sussed the non dyno way of doing the top and familiarised myself with 9 to 5 stand, which I've done before - all moves and some links, feels as if could go quite quickly... met Miguel from Spain and Tony who did red or dead - popped by beginners briefly to pay homage to the psychodrama that is Nick on AT!
Boy got initiated into beavers dyb dyb

W - work++

T - Strength Asylum: Deadlifts 9 sets up to 185 x 5 (felt easier than 180s last week, I must be acclimatising to 5s) Celebrated by allowing myself one single- 230 off 2" blocks which felt solid - feeling stronger than ever and beginning to hope this cycle could lead to WR levels for small old people who don't do roids (240.5 for WDFPF M2 75s).
Weighted wide grip pull-ups 7 sets up to +45 x 1.5
Squats 7 sets mainly working sets of 100s/110s - failed at a PB go of 130, bouncing my head off the bar on the way down - not pretty!
Bench press - failed at PB attempt of 80, so if I compete will def be single lift!

F - Work ++

S - Went to Whaley Bridge to look at some piglets; agreed to take the three girls to root up the land and maybe breed; with the boy having been read both babe and charlottes web recently not much chance of them reaching the dinner table!

S - Stoke AW kids club - boy completed NIBAS 1, I was having a nice session; couple of V7s, then went to look at the cool green on the back leaning wall of the island - climbed smoothly up it with that 'in the bag' feeling; sideways lurch to a jug at the top, but banged a hold on the way so couldn't hang on and came spinning down full force on my left leg with the following result:

NSFW  :

(http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af191/bellerophon23/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_6948_zpsio6ehhqm.jpg)

Open transverse tib/fib, now pinned - Massive respect to the guys at Awesome Walls who were stars, and sorry for messing up everybody else's session..

Two things that were really gutting - the look on the boys face when he realised his father wasn't invulnerable, and the deadlifting- I'm sure ill get the climbing back on track, but really not sure I'll be able to have the same long term DL plans..

NNFN

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: TobyD on November 07, 2016, 09:40:11 am

Mon early turbo session, hospital most of rest of the day
Tue gym, easy bike ride
Wed early turbo session, gym
Thu  early turbo session, gym
Fri  early turbo session, gym: long session
Sat  early turbo session, 5-6 mile mellow walk
Sun  early turbo session, gym

Shoulders feeling slightly stronger on weights, and slightly fitter on the bike. Positive, but unproductive for climbing. Pretty intimidated by the idea of any climbing at the moment, partly enjoying the break, but missing that addictive blend of movement, thought, adventure and pulling the fuck down.

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: cheque on November 07, 2016, 09:42:51 am

Quote from: measles23 on November 07, 2016, 09:36:19 am

GRUESOME ALERT - DO NOT READ THIS OVER BREAKFAST!!

:jaw: :sick: Get well soon man.

Could you use the nsfw tag on that please?

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: TobyD on November 07, 2016, 09:45:11 am

Quote from: T_B on November 07, 2016, 09:21:39 am

Shark - sack it off for this season.

While I'm at it, Simon, listen to this man. Especially if you have swollen fingers as well. 

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: shark on November 07, 2016, 09:55:04 am

Quote from: measles23 on November 07, 2016, 09:36:19 am

Shark it's been humbling watching you and Nick hit the wall on your respective projects - the honesty and openness make for top quality reporting - I agree with T_B and think sack it off until mojo back..

Thanks Measles. That looks awful and fucking painful beyond measure. Even more gutting when you are going so well with the weights and bouldering. I have added the NSFW feature - hope you dont mind. A long road back - keep the faith.

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: Doylo on November 07, 2016, 10:05:50 am

Agree with TB. When the heads gone it's time for a break. You can't pound something that's so hard for you into submission. Very rarely works like that.

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: Luke Owens on November 07, 2016, 10:42:53 am

Felt like I hadn't done much this week but looking back I did quite a bit. Enjoying the training but missing the real thing, maybe do a lamplight bouldering sesh one eve this week instead of the wall and aim to get out on the proj next weekend. Fingers crossed for good weather and finding a partner!

M: 2 x 10 mins LI-Aerocap

T: Equipping, added a few bolts to make proj more comfortable and easier to work. Also added a direct finish from the start, looks just as good as the main proj, finishes up a slab on verdon-esque dimple/pockets. Also added a small handline to the cave from the ab-in to avoid the mud death slope when the ground is wet.

W: 2 x 10 mins LI-Aerocap

T: Plas Power - 2 x 10 mins LI-Aerocap

Attempting the proj replica from the first crux to the rest (16 moves) with a 3 minute rest between goes, fell off move 14 three times and got to the end once.

F: Rest

S: Family illness prevented plans to get on proj, fireworks at Chester Racecourse in the eve with the kids.

S: Plas Power - 10 mins LI-Aerocap

Tried 7A on the Moonboard off the app, felt nails, couldn't do some of the moves, need to set some of the easier problems off the app.

Did proj replica first crux to rest twice to the end (16moves) fell off move 14 three times. 3 mins rest between goes.

4 x 1:30min (~25moves) on 2min off - HI-Aerocap

10 mins LI-Aerocap

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: nai on November 07, 2016, 11:02:42 am

Quote from: nai on November 06, 2016, 09:26:55 pm

Fri - car packed with a sea of foam, flask filled and lunch made. All set for a return to eatswood to iron out the rail match and get some links done. Then 20 minutes before school opens a message arrives saying they have no water and it's shut for the day.  Spent the day in a bit of a huff.

Same effin thing happened again today.  Was feeling quite sorry for myself til I saw measle's post. Good luck with your recovery.

And Simon, also think you've done the right thing canning it for the year.  moose sums up how I feel too, feel like I should still be throwing myslef at bits of the Tor while it's dry but I've been going at it since March and just can't force myself to turn up any more.  Give those fingers a rets so you can do some effective training ahead of Spring. No point limping through, working around tweeks, that won't help long-term.

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: Dolly on November 07, 2016, 11:39:52 am

Shark - I agree with the leaving it for this year brigade. Dont beat yourself up about it. Come back in the Spring, stronger and psyched.
T_B. First move on LHM is OK if you're as tall as you. As with a lot of this problem there's a knack.  I can post beta if you want - but will hold off in case you'd prefer to not to do it like that.


M nothing apart from scooting to school and back which probably isnt permissable as a power club entry so I wont mention it again
T Lagerstarfish and I had planned to go to Stanage but it was raining the morning  :( . Dried up by lunchtime and I'm not quite sure why but I went to Black Rocks. The last time I went there was 84 I think and I'll probably leave it another 32 years before my next visit. Lots of litter, some graffiti, limestone scree at the bottom of the crag (WTF?) and a noisy quarry over the other side of the valley. I did Hat Trick which was all over a bit quickly then left. Went to look at Back Street Abortionist on the way home, but I need a spot to commit to the move on the ex chicken head. Did that easy arete problem which was very good
W Had to go into work for a bit then for some reason I decided to go to the far end of Rivelin Quarries. I wasted the time I had thrashing through undergrowth, getting hot and frustrated only to get to the problems at the end to find they were green, overgrown and would need work before being climbable. Sacked it off
T Met TT at Gardoms. Failed on Perfect Day direct start and Bin Ladens cave, despite having my hands over the top. Now I knwo what to do hoping for a return to these 2 this week. Skin and body trashed.
F HIT, but I was knackered from Thursday
S
S After talking to TT about the real benefits of them I did some weighted max hangs. Quite hard arent they ?

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: duncan on November 07, 2016, 11:46:43 am

STG: Don’t get injured. Allow full recovery from cold.  Shoulder maintenance exercises twice weekly. Steep bouldering or fingerboard twice weekly.
MTG: project a 7b
LTG: Font 7A. 7b+. E5/5.12 trad. Something properly long, hard and free (and ideally in condition in August).

Week 348 - :sick:
Week 349 - :sick:

S - Fingerboard ‘warm-up’.
M - Shoulder rehab. exercises.
T -
W - Westway fridge bouldering to ~V3.
T - Shoulder rehab. exercises.
F - Shoulder rehab. exercises.
S - Fingerboard ‘warm-up’: repeater-style short hangs on the 45, 20 and 15mm edges. Carved plugs to create a 25mm deep slot: the BM1000 always feels like there is a gap between the 45mm and 20mm. Sad to be indoors when it looked so glorious but not fit for 6 hours of driving and a day in the cold, badly miss not living nearer real rock at times like this.
S - Stroll in Epping Forest. Surprisingly knackered afterwards.


Easing back into things after a bad cold. 70% better but anything involving large muscles for any time still leaves me very tired. 2kg heavier than two months ago and >3kg more than ideal. On the positive side, 9 months after (probably) avulsing a collateral ligament, my middle finger now tolerates some easy finger-boarding. I’d really love to do a good winter of strength training, the obvious thing to address my biggest weakness and break the current plateau. Slightly dispirited by events outside climbing and feels like I’ve missed the boat this autumn but I’ve just booked a sport trip for February and other ideas germinating for the spring/summer. measles23 puts my minor woes into context; hope the recovery goes to plan.

Plan: two strength sessions per week (fingerboard, bouldering, projecting), easy does it to begin with. Add more supportive exercises as general health allows.

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: cheque on November 07, 2016, 12:15:04 pm

Quote from: Dolly on November 07, 2016, 11:39:52 am

limestone scree at the bottom of the crag (WTF?)

It's from lead mining in the 18th (I think?) century. BR's on a very small area of grit right on the edge of the limestone.

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: Nibile on November 07, 2016, 12:28:32 pm

Quote from: measles23 on November 07, 2016, 09:36:19 am

NNFN

Jesuschrist, so sorry for that!
Glad it didn't happen while deadlifting, or I would have felt a bit responsible!
Anyway hats off to you, it seems that you took it on the chin like bad mofo.
All the best, heal soon!

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: Will Hunt on November 07, 2016, 12:33:31 pm

Bit of a lazy week. Only a day out on Saturday to report. Went up to Barden Fell and came back down three split tips the richer after pottering on the usual circuit of problems. Didn't do anything new but was still a great day out. Hooked up with a big crew from Sheffield including danm, JB, Duncan Campbell and others which was good craic  :wave:

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: Fiend on November 07, 2016, 12:41:28 pm

Quote from: shark on November 06, 2016, 08:04:41 pm

Just not enjoying it any more over the last three sessions years.

:whistle:

Enjoy the winter's training tho. JB called the grit well.....

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: tommytwotone on November 07, 2016, 12:58:51 pm

Not much to report here - I was going to complain about some elbow (Tennis? General tendonitis maybe) trouble that has flared up since a foot slip at the wall a couple of weeks back. Then I read measles' post so I'll leave it at that.


Oh, and I thwarted an attempted break-in at my house last night when I was kipping on the sofa in the living room...

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: Nibile on November 07, 2016, 01:27:36 pm

Power Club

Mon - Dolomites, third day on, perfect conditions. Took it easy then summoned all my physical and mental strength and climbed my project. Perfect. I am a machine.
Tue - still sunny and perfect, dammit. Drove home.
Wed - boxing bag.
Thu - anti-rotation work, trap work. Climbing class.
Fri - rest. Achey.
Sat - board climbing, too tired for bouldering. Matched past PB on circuit! YYFY!!! Dumbbell complex (speed) x3.
Sun - low int. PE, 30/30, 1/1, 30/30 x5 all completed, amazing progress!!!

Well, a great week. Climbed my project in the Dolomites and made good progress on my circuit project. I feel that I'm on the right track. PE is really improving, added another 30/30 set at the usual session. Chuffed.
I think that some rest is due.

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: Murph on November 07, 2016, 01:57:06 pm

Quote from: Dolly on November 07, 2016, 11:39:52 am

I did some weighted max hangs. Quite hard arent they ?

To paraphrase that Mike Mentzer quote: anyone who thinks max hangs are easy, is wrong.

Great way to spend an evening though IMO. Certainly beats getting your arse handed to you on your project again (+1 to "take a break from it shark and get the love back").....or breaking your leg (mend well measles23 - you put all us drama queens in place!!)

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: filz on November 07, 2016, 02:03:04 pm

Measles good luck with your recovery.

Shark I'll have my say too  ;) Take some days rest and then try again with a good recruiting session the day before.

M: front lever proressions
T: climbing. 2 goes on a 7a+. The first was not bad. In the second I got all the foot sequence wrong
W: fb repetaers during lunch break. Yoga in the evening
T: abs work: crunches, hanging leg raises, dragon flags. Dumbbell complex: clean, press, squat
F: isometrics weight training. Then something else I don't remember
S: board climbing on nib's board
S: theraband excercises for shoulders

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: tomtom on November 07, 2016, 02:50:34 pm

Christ Measles - that looks gruesome... hope it heals straightforward and fast. You sound pretty chipper considering :-/

Shark. Shark shark shark shark shark. Plenty of advice above, so I recommend doing whatever makes you happy :)

M: Work

Tu: Work > Hull wall in the evening. Much to my annoyance they'd got rid of some of the 7A/+'s I'd been trying and replaced them with other 7A/+'s that largely felt impossible. Upstairs were still some of the older problems and I recovered some pride on those.

We: I've forgotten... lots of driving I think...

Th: Gardoms with Dolly. Good session. Got to within tickling distance of the second crimpy edge on Perfect Day - though was taking a 'french start' to a new level by french starting from the block to the right :) Very much enjoyed it. Transferring weight onto the toe to share then powering up felt like great moves. As per Dolly, I reached the final jugs on Bin Ladens and failed to top out. Retired a quivering wreck :)

Fr: Looking after baby day..

Sa: Drove to Beris early. Amazed it only took 1hr 20 min from home... I should go to N.Wales more often its well within striking range... Met up with fried Neil and we set off to do the Horseshoe. Pass car park was full, so parked at the Cromlech and hoiked it overland to meet up with the Pyg track (I think)... Crib Goch was entertaining, strong gusty northerly wind and sporadic hail showers.. no hands and knees moments, but mostly crouched and lots of shuffling across. Good fun. Neil, who lives in Cambridge and in his own words "the highest thing I've crossed on foot in a year is a hump backed bridge" found it a bit trickier. Fuck me - there were hundreds out on Snowdon... didnt bother with the summit - had some food in the shelter of the (closed) railway cafe... was quite nasty on the top, snow on top of rime all over the blocks and paths. Lots to twats in trainers skating about all over the place.. tricky descent then the rest was easy/enjoyable. Cheesy Chips (or Chips and CHeese?) in Petes, couple of beers in the Heights followed by a Curry and bed. Excellent.

Su: Went out for a potter below Cwm Idwal - ended up questing towards Tryfan as legs felt in good shape. Gave up at the shoulder between Tryfan and the Glyders due to driving sleet/snow and having seen the connies on top of Snowdon the day before didnt fancy skating about without some cramps. Looped back, got soaking wet - cup of tea and a pastie and home. Great weekend.

Somehow manged to put on 3lbs despite walking 25-30km... (and lots of up and down)... 

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: webbo on November 07, 2016, 03:19:24 pm

Mon. Board 30 warm up problems the repeaters with 39.25lbs added. Bike 61.23 miles 3 hrs 35 mins.
Tue. Turbo 50 mins.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Dentist apparently I've got an infected tooth, prescribed anti biotics. As usually get the shits. Board did 4 problems I couldn't do last week.
Fri. Feel rough, went for a ride couldn't tell if it was hard due to the wind and cold temps or it was due to antibiotics. 44.84 miles 2 hrs 38 mins.
Sat. Board trying projects, still feel shit.
Sun. Feel even worse.

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: shark on November 07, 2016, 06:16:06 pm

Quote from: tomtom on November 07, 2016, 02:50:34 pm

Shark. Shark shark shark shark shark. Plenty of advice above, so I recommend doing whatever makes you happy :)

Crag X made me happy today - still buzzing. Mint condition. Had 5 solid hours on JR. Worked the top initially and linked to top from LH on small intermediate crimp and right hand on rail. Then did progressively higher redpoints with best goes going for slot with left hand. Didnt fade throughout and last go was one of the best. Dont know where this session stamina has come from - I'm normally done in after three hours.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=0e9Zk9H0WsY

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: Doylo on November 07, 2016, 07:08:52 pm

Is it T-Shirt weather in the peak?? It's freezing here ..

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: tomtom on November 07, 2016, 07:11:02 pm

Good effort there. Nice heel toe.

Climb faster :)

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: shark on November 07, 2016, 07:22:11 pm

Quote from: Doylo on November 07, 2016, 07:08:52 pm

Is it T-Shirt weather in the peak?? It's freezing here ..

4/5 degrees but no wind. Had to wrap up between goes and go back to the car a couple of times to keep warm

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: dave on November 07, 2016, 08:40:27 pm

I wouldn't usually advocate this Shark but I know some folk on JR after matching the rail I think get left heel on the big LH hold (the one you get after 2 moves) which gets them through the top bit with a relatively solid foot. You could probably cross into the high slot off the rail with heel up.

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: dave on November 07, 2016, 08:43:14 pm

and lo....

https://vimeo.com/142019368

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: 36chambers on November 07, 2016, 09:19:23 pm

M: Lunch yoga. Full body workout avec deadlifts
T: Almscliff. First session trying to link Keelhaul 8A. Had one go from start to pockets slap then Farmer Gedden arrived.
W: half of W7 gym ball core, more deadlifts
T: Indoors. Felt weak and fatigued and struggled with easy 50 board problems. So spent the session getting use to some of the heinous crimpy holds.
F: Afternoon at Caley. Despite feeling weak got to a new high point on Crystal Method 7B+ and Blockbuster 7B. Also reacquainted myself with Zoo York 8A and could effectively do the first toe hook move statically every time! On paper the day sounds more successful than it actually was.
S: Brimham. Completely chickened out of the last move on Belly Porkers Progress 7B a few times. I suspect it's actually a very easy move. Ended the day on To Me To You 7C and having previously written it off as being too reachy it may be a Goa after all.
S:

Think I'm currently troughing, going to take it easy this week. 

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: jfdm on November 07, 2016, 09:21:33 pm

Measles,
Take care and get better soon.

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: measles23 on November 07, 2016, 09:54:59 pm

Thanks for all the good vibes and supportive texts folks it means a lot.. Thanks too for editing the photo - amazing what seems appropriate after half a litre of oramorph!

Nothing to do now for 6 weeks apart from applying deadlift science to the fingerboard  :)

and ask the obvious question what would Jerry do?:
(http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af191/bellerophon23/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_6954_zpsswmiukww.jpg)

Have a good winter season all

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: shark on November 07, 2016, 10:14:42 pm

Quote from: dave on November 07, 2016, 08:40:27 pm

I wouldn't usually advocate this Shark but I know some folk on JR after matching the rail I think get left heel on the big LH hold (the one you get after 2 moves) which gets them through the top bit with a relatively solid foot. You could probably cross into the high slot off the rail with heel up.

Cheers Dave - I was aware of the left heel but was put off that it wasn't the done thing as well as having high risk of a nasty sideways fall. TT also tells me that you should match the flake though most seem to jump off just holding the crimp and flake. Hope the heel toe is OK.

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: Duma on November 07, 2016, 10:15:14 pm

Shark - ace to see climbing still making you happy.
Measles - fuuuuuck, heal fast dude, sounds like you've got the right attitude.

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: jfdm on November 07, 2016, 10:25:24 pm

Measles what would the Puch and Courtney do?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=REtTkCllKQw (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=REtTkCllKQw)
https://vimeo.com/165892322 (https://vimeo.com/165892322)
Give it time and you will be back....

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: moose on November 07, 2016, 10:38:00 pm

Quote from: Duma on November 07, 2016, 10:15:14 pm

Shark - ace to see climbing still making you happy.

That's the joy of a bouldering session after a long routes season.  Like having a hot shower after a long time spent working in freezing rain - they are both essentially the same experience - getting wet - but very different in overall feel! 

That said, when you start to really get into working a boulder problem it can be almost as bad as as a red-point campaign.  Though at least you don't have to stand around in the cold for hours belaying, or suffering the horror of the grinding dog up to the belay to retreive the draws when the last attempt has gone  to shit.

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: Coops_13 on November 08, 2016, 08:38:51 am

Quote from: 36chambers on November 07, 2016, 09:19:23 pm

S: Brimham.  Ended the day on To Me To You 7C and having previously written it off as being too reachy it may be a Goa after all.

Didn't put Crimpy Roof to bed?  :tease:

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: 36chambers on November 08, 2016, 09:34:03 am

Quote from: Coops_13 on November 08, 2016, 08:38:51 am

Quote from: 36chambers on November 07, 2016, 09:19:23 pm

S: Brimham.  Ended the day on To Me To You 7C and having previously written it off as being too reachy it may be a Goa after all.

Didn't put Crimpy Roof to bed?  :tease:

didn't look at it, I don't have time for dynos

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: andy_e on November 08, 2016, 09:41:07 am

 :lol:

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: dave on November 08, 2016, 11:28:45 am

Quote from: shark on November 07, 2016, 10:14:42 pm

Cheers Dave - I was aware of the left heel but was put off that it wasn't the done thing

You're already heel-toeing the jug break so I wouldn't sweat it.

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: Coops_13 on November 08, 2016, 12:10:46 pm

Quote from: 36chambers on November 08, 2016, 09:34:03 am

Quote from: Coops_13 on November 08, 2016, 08:38:51 am

Quote from: 36chambers on November 07, 2016, 09:19:23 pm

S: Brimham.  Ended the day on To Me To You 7C and having previously written it off as being too reachy it may be a Goa after all.

Didn't put Crimpy Roof to bed?  :tease:

didn't look at it, I don't have time for dynos

That's what I said about Rainbow Rocket...

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: petejh on November 08, 2016, 08:59:50 pm

Quote from: measles23 on November 07, 2016, 09:54:59 pm

Thanks for all the good vibes and supportive texts folks it means a lot.. Thanks too for editing the photo - amazing what seems appropriate after half a litre of oramorph!

Nothing to do now for 6 weeks apart from applying deadlift science to the fingerboard  :)

and ask the obvious question what would Jerry do?:
(http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af191/bellerophon23/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_6954_zpsswmiukww.jpg)

Have a good winter season all

Oh look, a clunky imprecise hindrance to footwork. And an ankle cast.

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: Johnny Brown on November 09, 2016, 12:06:35 pm

Mk. 1 Laser isn't it? Which was the best boot at the time, until kendos came out...

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: T_B on November 09, 2016, 12:25:32 pm

Quote from: Johnny Brown on November 09, 2016, 12:06:35 pm

Mk. 1 Laser isn't it? Which was the best boot at the time, until kendos came out...

Kendos?! Bet you didn't climb many techy slabs in those! Had one pair = crippling.

I never had a pair of the original sprints, but loved my sprint 2s :)

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: Duma on November 11, 2016, 04:11:51 pm

Quote from: Duma on November 06, 2016, 10:06:11 pm

Pegusus seemed a bit soft, not sure if I went from right holds..

I did not. Seems my definition of "first good edges" is different from the guidebook writers.

Title: Re: UKB Power Club Week 350 31st Nov - 6th Nov 2016
Post by: SamT on November 11, 2016, 09:02:59 pm

Quote

Oh look, a clunky imprecise hindrance to footwork. And an ankle cast.

Calange shorts?