UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: Murph on October 16, 2016, 10:11:57 am
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OK if I start this one? My Sunday is already set in stone.
M-rest
T-working Advanced Training with Matt :wave:. Fantastic session, learnt a lot about "the process". Felt like I was getting precisely nowhere, and suggested we move the mats across to try something easier. “No way!” was, to paraphrase, Matt’s reaction to this. Within an hour I was falling off AT one move from the top after Matt worked out *the way*. Neither of us got it but it was now surely only a question of time. Unexpected turnaround and taught me a lot about digging deep and not giving up.
W-sort of rest, sort of doing easy routes on Stanage in the morning before getting rained on. I don’t know, is VS a decent route grade for someone working 7C+ boulders…?
T-reality meets expectations. I thought, I’ll just quickly tick off this 7C+ then take my mate to Rubicon to show him around…..wrong! 15 good efforts on AT and I fell off every imaginable move, a number of times just forgetting the sequence. Thought of The Shark and his Oak towards the end of the session…it wasn't supposed to feel like this.
F-rest. Studying my selfie footage of AT and MoS – think I’ve seen the crucial difference now in the footwork. Surely tomorrow...?
S-Morning session on AT. I promised myself 6 good goes with lots of rest in between. On the 6th go I only went and fell off the last move, latching the finishing spike badly and peeling off. NNFN doesn’t nearly do it justice. 4 more poor goes ensued with nothing like that success.
S-Rest. Fingers now in tatters. Psyched out of my box.
Weight – 64.3kgs average. Up over a kilo from last week. Need to sort this out pronto it could easily snowball / balloon…
In light of recent developments and my impending return to work after 3 months Pat Leave, I am updating my goals.
STG – Advanced Training, get back to 62.x kgs average.
MTG – Advanced Training
LTG – Advanced Training
Problem Wishlist – Advanced Training, Piss, G, Tsunami, Dancing Fish & Picnic Sarcastic (as and when)
Training Wishlist – 147, BM+50kg, OAP
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Problem Wishlist - G
What is this? Is there really a problem just called 'G'?
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More formally known as Soft on the G
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Ah right, my initial reaction was if you're trying a lime 7C+ then you should really be thinking about Full Power, but I guess it's compression strength vs crimp power. Hope you've not been neglecting the bench presses.
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goals - Aberration,
Body Machine, Proud Whore, 7b OS, E4 OS.
Mon - Tor, put clips in Body Machine, worked traverse 3 times so I knew the right foothold to use then managed to redpoint it first attempt of the day. Almost came off the rockover and was a bag of nerves at the final shake after the traverse but it was otherwise steady. Finishing this meant I'd done as many routes of 7c or harder in five months since May as I'd done in the previous five years.
Went up P1 of The Prow routes, seemed ok, guess the hard stuff kicks in above.
Tue - rest
wed - rest
Thu - Two Tier - dropped my gloves in river on the way in and that was effectively the day over. tried various ways of warming hands up before setting off on RPs but it turns out nothing is as effective as actually wearing gloves during belay stints.
Last go I actually made it through the crux in heavyish rain but fell unable to see the foothold I was aiming for due to the raindrops on my glasses. Bet you've not heard that one before?
Fri - went up Prow P2, the hard stuff does kick in above... but Wowsers, what a pitch
S - set off for a quick mtb ride before dusk, did all the climbing then punctured 100m into the descent only to find Mrs had borrowed my pump.
S rest
Hopefully back on PW tomorrow, just hope the start survives today's weather.
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Good work on BM Nai!
My grades are all over the place. There is no equivalence whatsoever between my grit and lime ability. And the bench press, yeah, not found a way to incorporate into training what with life getting in the way. But it's not exactly a weakness (I think) - 60kgs for reps with no specific training.
The obstacle between where i am now and getting SotG ticked isn't really strength, it's general crapness at climbing and not having tried it for months since gouging my knuckles on it and getting infected.
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Cheers Murph.
M - Short (1h) session indoors, achey tendons which I don't even bother climbing through now, just stopped. Sore from Sunday. A lot of easy stuff.
T - Rest
W - Second short indoor session, feeling good, but didn't push it.
Th - Rest
F - Short BM sessios 5x5 slopers/ reduced pockets
S - Played around with shoulder exercises, had a birthday in the evening that I foolishly thought I might be able to escape from at a reasonable hour, no such luck...
Su - Should be in the forest, the sun is shining, but I'm at home feeling a little fragile....may have a beer soon.
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Mon - Tor, put clips in Body Machine, worked traverse 3 times so I knew the right foothold to use then managed to redpoint it first attempt of the day..... Finishing this meant I'd done as many routes of 7c or harder in five months since May as I'd done in the previous five years.
:clap2:
Fri - went up Prow P2, the hard stuff does kick in above... but Wowsers, what a pitch
Definitely get an airy feeling round your ankles
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Definitely get an airy feeling round your ankles
Yep, I tied in with a figure of 8 the second time I went up, Bowline (which had felt adequate enough to skip the clip before the traverse on BM) suddenly looked like certain death hanging up there.
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Thanks Murph
10.10-12
M.
T. Malham PM. Up with Ben Heason, Rab and Steve. Stopped off in Bradford to look at a new van for Ben. Probably got there 2.00pm Less sunny than forecast which was promising. Catwalk was nice and quiet - a good mix of people, Gresh, Charlie, Chris Gore, Basher. No mortal enemies. Ive been using a cheap temperature and humidity meter which I'm starting to obsess over. Temps started at 19 deg and dropped to just below 10 with humidity rising from 50s to 88% . Every session as the afternoon progresses into evening you gain with lower temps but then lose with the increased humidity. So conditions not perfect but still the best day so far and at a lower bodyweight pressure was on - No Excuses! .
Cons x 3
Go 1 Dogged with ease and linked horn to top. I felt good, rock felt good
Go 2 Tried to calm down before the redpoint doing some breathing and counting to ten - seemed to work - climbed the bottom section and past horn with precision and ease and got to rest before final traverse - felt uncomfortable and unresty at the rest and panicked a little that I was going to get pumped and rushed into the traverse alll tensed up and failed to adjust to bear in better on the second gaston which meant I was already falling out when coming in with the right hand for the sidepull which I consequently failed to hold. Disappointing but still a seasonal high point
Go 3 Went for a walk to top of Cove. Thru horn again solidly and got to rest before top traverse. I clipped the bolt then made a conscious effort to relax more this time at the shake but overdid it ! - the right foot shot off when I relaxed as the foot wasn't in the best place in the groove and I was off again. >:(
Go 4 Getting dark. Went for walk. Humidity now in 80's but just under 10degrees Got horn from ground but didnt quite hold it - thumb slipped off. Clipped into 2nd bolt for just two minutes then did 2nd bolt to top :o - Contemplated doing some more links on top section but decided to finish strong and not busted. I reckon this was the best session this year.
Looking back at diary the previous best this year was on 28th April when I got thru horn move three times but the temp was a baltic 2.5 degrees and I also didnt do the 2nd bolt to the top link then (not that I tried). Going back further compared to last Autumn 2015 I am back up to an equivalent level of my best sessions which was typically getting through the horn move three times but only up to the top traverse twice. Also today I fell off due to very small errors rather than from being shut down on the first two redpoints and probably due to rising humidity on the third.
T.
W.
T. Noon. Up with Steve, Haydn and Haydn's mate Silent Will. Armed with slinky new Sterling Nano. lightweight chalk bag and roller biners for first two draws. Looked bleak on walk in - long wet streaks but fortunately Oak unaffected Sunny then drizzly. Temps starting at 19 and dropping to 10 and humidity rising from 70's to 80's%. Feeling confident after Tuesdays performance. Cons x 3 to warm up as usual.
Go 1 felt good dogging up bottom bit and did horn to top.
Go 2 Climbed well and got to horn where I felt good enough to chalk up (usually just slap my thighs) Got to undercut rest before top traverse and suddenly everything ebbed away and I couldnt even take a hand off to chalk up - launched into traverse but was bolloxed and fell off trying to get purchase on second gaston. Analysing it decided that chalking up at the horn had fucked me up - though maybe I wasnt quite warmed up enough?.
Go 3 Went for a walk and came back to hear Gresh's victory shrieks on his new route. Good vibes but then put in a shambolic redpoint where I seemed to have to adjust on a few holds so came off before throw. 20 mins rest then
Go 4 Seemed to go to pieces setting up for the throw - touched horn
Go 5 Went for walk. Getting dark and humid. Climbed well - got the horn badly but managed to cling on and readjust - similarly got undercut badly but still pulled into rest and could chalk this time and got a foot move further than previous time. Lowered to second bolt and pulled rope and retied and had 5 mins rest then tried second bolt to top but fell off midway thru traverse. Comparable session to Monday. A few micro beta lessons learnt. Need to combine freshness of first go with application of the last one and resist temptation to chalk at the horn however fresh I feel
F. PM. Popped into Foundry for a power top up. Renewed membership. Bouldered on Wave for first time in months with Andy Coish. Really enjoyed it. Did some level 2s on steep section. Felt fresh, light and good. Eve. Sonia had been plied with Prosecco at the hairdressers and suggested opening a bottle of wine. I hadnt drunk all week. Polished that off at dinner and had a large G&T.
S. AM Felt a bit hungover. Moved some large rocks and slabs with the boys
S.
I left the crag on Tuesday far more confident. Now down to keeping low weight, being fresh for sessions, good conditions, good mental attitude and redpoint execution. 4 out of the 5 are down to me. Desperately trying to avoid catching Sonia's cold with powders and vitamin pills.
Forecast over next ten days looks to remain generally warmish and humid but at least not much rain so seepage shouldn't be an immediate threat. Getting up to the traverse twice in a session on succesive sessions is the level I was at last Autumn when I nearly did it. Looking at last years performance I reckon I can hang on to this peak till the start of November by which time it will most likely be seeping anyway. Therefore in theory I have decent window to get it done. Going again Monday with Steve, Rab and Haydn and then probably Friday (no arrangements)
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That stuff about falling temps and rising humidity, Shark, I wouldn't read too much into them if I were you. As temperature falls then humidity is always going to rise. The reader is telling you about relative humidity, and since colder air cannot hold as much water vapour as warmer air, the same total moisture content will be relatively more humid (i.e. closer to condensation) in cooler temps.
There isn't really a science (yet) about what balance is the best connies for climbing. You're better going by feel and if the rock feels good then just getting on with it.
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Thanks Will - I didn't know that. There was definitely one point that it felt fresh with a breeze but the humidity was in the 90s which was totally out of whack. I'm certainly not basing my redpoint timing on it as there isn't enough spare daylight to mess about and I usually need 45mins to 1 hour to recover properly
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No problem. It sounds like you've had some really good cracks at it. Promising stuff. I think you definitely need to be approaching it with the attitude now that you are going to do it and really commit to the redpoint goes, even things go a little scrappily early in the climb.
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Monday Foundry first climbing for 3.5 months. Not terrified: result. 6b on a top rope felt like redpointing 8a did in April/ May. Less of a result.
Tuesday Gym
Wednesday am Gym, pm first bike ride for same time as above: 8-10 miles on a flat cycle path felt pretty tiring
Thursday 5-6 mile walk
Friday Gym
Saturday London for the day, a few planks at half 6 am before leaving for a train.
Sunday Gym AM
Hard to gauge any progress really, but hitting myself with 'new' things which always takes it out of you. Great to see a few people in Sheffield and actually be outside on a bike and not an exercise bike. Hopefully get some more climbing in next week between multiple medical appointments.
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Yeah - there's a pretty solid relationship between temp and humidity.
Good efforts though shark.. sounds like one of these go's you'll throw three sixes in a row and it'll all happen... I seem to remember you having problems getting to/holding the horn... now you're chalking up and showboating on it!! :)
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M: Cala Barques with the missus. Nipped round to the DWS and downclimbed to Hercules. Got a bit spooked and decided to have a test jump into the sea which was fine. By the time I'd swum out the queues had reformed at the bottom and it wasn't quite hot enough to be psyched for another trip down. Went and played on a nice steep lowball traverse and a few variations on that. All in the low 6s.
T:-T: Holiday stuff
F:Barques again. Had a go on Watch For Jellies which is a bouldery traverse (possibly undergraded at 6c+). Fell in failing to find the holds. Climbed a 6a+ to escape while wringing wet and with no chalk which was spooky! Went back round to try the traverse again and the key slopey pinch was now wet and my makeshift chalkbag had broken so had to give up which was a shame. With no chalk things weren't looking good so played on the lowball traverse again. A bit disappointed, headed back to the beach and decided to look into the Cova cave on the way back. Saw some of the people I'd met over at the Hercules cave and borrowed a chalkbag so I could have a go on Might of the Stalactite. The downclimbing was a little adventure in its own right, and then swinging along those massive jugs and hanging tufas! Awesome! Made up for the poor showing at the other caves. Nice leap in off the block at the end.
S:
S:
DWS is weird. I can imagine being a lot more psyched and willing to go for it if I was there with a group of other people. You've definitely got to get used to falling in the sea in order to climb well at height.
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I seem to remember you having problems getting to/holding the horn... now you're chalking up and showboating on it!! :)
Getting and holding the horn when stretched is still hard but once you've got your feet up and bridge out it becomes a good hold
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Will - I had a holiday to Majorca with an ex, had few days at barques and had a similar experience to you. I went back a few years later with 'the crew' and it's up there with the best style of climbing I've ever had the pleasure to do. Book a trip. the bigger the group the less scary the sea becomes (unless it's choppy in which case fuck that I'm taking pictures)
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STG:
MTG: 8As
LTG: 8B
M: Lunch circuit training, full body.
T: Indoors. Felt weak on the board so finished with some FOC x 6.
W: Henry Price lunch, recovery/aerocap. W4 gym ball, elbow management, stretches etc.
T: Indoors. PE 4 sets in the cave, there's currently a perfect cave problem for lapping. Excellent session.
F: Drive to Northumberland
S: Brief session at Bowden.
S: Half day at Back Bowden, climbed Severus Snape 7B+, which is really good. I'm too small to reach the pinch off the foot so had to embrace the big throw and cut.
Aim: get stronger and better. Got big plans for winter, but it all depends on whether I've improved in the last year or not.
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Hi Will
Re DWS I also had a similar experience: https://27crags.com/climbers/shark/blog/shark-infested-water
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STG Onsights around 7b ish
MTG 8a at 70
LTG Probs no LT left
Mon: Feeling a bit tired so had low intensity session at Sunderland. 12 23m routes all easy 6a-6c.
Tues: DCC boulders ladder up to 6c then worked / sent 2/3 harder
Wed: Hard session at NA ten long hard routes all over the big roof 7a-7b+ Then coaching at DCC was a bit jaded.
Thurs: Rest rest and more rest stretches and antags.
Fri: More rest stretches antags and brief pinch machine session.
Sat: Back on the board big intensity low volume, flashed all test blocs then repeated them twice. Three link attempts, linked 3 and bit blocs. Pinch machine and stretch.
Sun: Much resting brief stretch Tomorrow will be repeat of board session. Then off to Scicily for a couple of weeks. Winter trips begin all booked through to May. Life is good. Will up date training when passing through UK.
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Shark, Guy - I think both your accounts sound similar to mine which is comforting. All you ever see of DWS is Gus screaming "SOOOOOOOUP" down a megaphone and really good climbers taking massive falls into the sea like it's nothing. I went to Barrel Zawn earlier in the year and dig a few things but was really scared of falling off - I didn't. I ended up back there in the latter half of summer and met one of the local activists who told me you just have to jump in. After jumping in once I realised that the fear was more of unknown cold water and the unknown unpleasantnesses of a dunking. When you realise it's not cold the fear rapidly diminishes.
Heading back to Barques a second time, I was watching someone from the top of the smallest of the three caves and I looked down into the water and thought it definitely looked closer than it had done on a cloudy day earlier in the week. I definitely could have jumped off the top.
I think there's a definite learning curve which is shortened by having it nice and warm with lots of mates about. Keen to try again sometime. The carefree swinging on the jugs of the Stalactite traverse was just brilliant. No ropes, no dabs on ground a few feet away. Just airy climbing with deep knee drops, wild heel hooks and stalactite straddling hands off rests. Brill!
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STG: Moon Board 6B+
MTG (Spring 2017): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M:
T: Boulderwelt with M jnr. Weak session for me, not fully recovered from moonboard & max hangs on Sunday. And am in the grip of a recurring/persistent cold that I can't seem to fully get rid of.
W:
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Token endurance maintenance session: half a dozen routes, including significant progress on a 7a proj.
F: Bike one hour.
S: MTB two hours. Had planned a lads' outing with M jnr but he was out of action with a cold. Instead I voluntarily went for a solo bike ride. Oops, slippery slope.
S: Boulderwelt with M jnr. Lots of stuff around my onsight / couple of goes level; really need to do more projecting. IYTs & sling trainer planks to finish off.
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Goals:
Lots of local sport, unfinished business with cider soak from 15 years ago, good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof?)and 8b by next June
Body Audit: pretty much clear, touch wood (apart from the fucking sleep issue).
M: nothing, slightly better sleep (~6.5hrs)
T: nothing, ace meal out, too much booze and food but well worth it. Late night so ~5hrs.
W: TCA eve, half new hard set up, fun session playing on them, prob a few things in the high 6s/low 7s. ~6hrs
T: Bloc for brief play, couple of steep things in low 7s, worked one that's prob mid to high 7, then did absolutely amazing eliminate on one of the comp problems (basically jumping into a knee clamp mantle, of no training benefit at all). Good to see different crowd. Then had amazing dinner made for me - too much food and booze... Pretty much no sleep, must have dozed a couple of hours at some point I suppose.
F: Nothing, really struggling with tiredness by the afternoon, got in car accident on way home (my fault obv, but low speed and everyone fine, cars both drivable ok). Had to go straight to pick up daughter for the weekend, pretty strung out and emotional by then... In bed half an hour after her, must have had about 8hrs plus couple more dozing.
S: Nothing, hanging out with daughter. Feeling much better unsurprisingly. ~6 hrs but few hrs dozing too.
S: nothing, hanging out with daughter. In bed already as I write this, hoping for a decent night...
Really need to sort the sleep, affecting the rest of life quite severely now. Had ok weekend so far though, if I get a decent chunk tonight I'll be a lot happier, if not I think I'll be in the chemist at lunch tomorrow :-(
69kg (prob more actually, but not weighed in since midweek)
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C'mon Captain Shark. Very close now
M Bodyweight HIT
T Wave at lunchtime. Managed another level 3 after T_B showed how to swap feet on a hold
W Had an awful night's sleep and for some reason decided that it was best to get up early and do some Kettlebell HIT. Hard.
T Rode into work via the MTB skills track in Heeley Park. Shed in the evening. Brutal and brilliant as ever.
F
S Plans to go out were scuppered as the boss had a migraine. Managed to pop out later with smallest daughter for a quick blast at Jackson Tor (chosen as it has a playground at the top) and did The arete which really is very good for an easy problem.
S Boss still ill so did another Kettlebell HIT session at the gym.
Nowhere near enough climbing, but will be different this week.
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tune in next week for another edition of.....who did shark climb with this week!?
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Nah, he peaked too soon. Didn't he climb with Mina & Ben in the same week? How's he going to top that?
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Shark: out of interest have you ever done 1st bolt to the top?
s/m/ltg: regain some previous magic
Managed three sessions on the fingerboard and the odd set of 5 PUs this week.
Starting to feel like progress is being made. Even though I have been motivated I have tried to not hammer it this week as going from nothing to a lot doesn't feel like a good idea. I am still miles off of what I was doing before the Spain trip earlier in the year but I guess it will come back.
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tune in next week for another edition of.....who did shark climb with this week!?
Dense says hi
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Shark: out of interest have you ever done 1st bolt to the top?
The second is very low - 4 hand moves in. Don't think I could forgive myself doing it from any lower
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Really need to sort the sleep, affecting the rest of life quite severely now. Had ok weekend so far though, if I get a decent chunk tonight I'll be a lot happier, if not I think I'll be in the chemist at lunch tomorrow :-(
I sympathise Duma, not sleeping, or sleeping well affects everything else, and is just purely annoying in its own right. I've been wondering about getting one of those gradual wake up / sleep light / alarms: might be worth trying? I assume you've already tried all the standard 'sleep hygiene' measures already?
During a bout of sustained insomnia years ago, i necked a zopliclone and a bottle of beer before bedtime after a few drinks earlier in the evening; out like a light for about 14 hours... I woke up feeling rank though.
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STG - climb anything
MTG - 7A (3 months)
LTG - 7B
Weight - 73Kg, target 70Kg, 4wks
M - lunchtime - good 45 min sesh on Ash Pit traverse low. Evening - I hour on the board. Warm up then 4x4s on 35 degree wall
T - lunchtime - 40 min sesh on Ash Pit traverse low - evening - 75 leg raises, skin sore, so general conditioning - pull ups to warm up, 5 x 10 sets biceps curl, bench press etc
W - lunctime - 40 min on Ash pit traverse low. Evening - 1 hour on 35 degree board. Warm up, then 4x4s (failed on last 2 reps)
T - lunchtime - 45 min on Ash pit traverse low. Felt good in the lower temp conditions
F - met Tomtom for a quick session at W3 on the Square. Didn't feel brilliant, but fancied a potter anyhow. just started to warm up when I got on to the Square, a fairly easy good problem. On the last move I somehow pinged off (no idea how)
Feet landed on the mat, but the rest of me spazzed into the dip to the right. Knew straight away I'd done something to my knee, feels like a sprain, but managed to hobble off back to work. Felt like a right tit.
Evening - managed to drive to Bedford thanks to cruise control and not much traffic. applied compression, went to bed
S - Interruted night sleep. Woke up to a very painful knee. Couldn't weight it. Sat down all day. Applied Ice every 3 hours for 30mins. compression sock, kept it elevated. Paracetamol. Managed to limp out to a chinese restaurant in evening. painful
S - Bad night sleep. Woke up at 5.30 due to very painful neck and shoulder. Whiplash? took painkillers, it's slowly subsided through the day. Knee marginally better, I can now weight it. Think the ice and rest on Saturday did it good. Managed to walk if knee kept straight. Any slight twist feels very painful. No visible swelling. Can't climb stairs properly. Impossible to bend down and sit on my ankles. Only right side of right knee affected.
I've no clue how I managed to drop the top of the square, I've done it a few times before. It was most likely just being a bit distracted. But anyway, it looks like I've knackered myself for the Torridon trip next week, even if I can climb I won't want to be falling on my knee it feels far too fragile at the moment.
It's fair to say I'm pretty pissed off with the situation but trying to remain positive.
Hopefully with rest it might miraculously heal itself in time but I'm not holding out much hope.
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Knew straight away I'd done something to my knee,
Managed to walk if knee kept straight. Any slight twist feels very painful. No visible swelling. Can't climb stairs properly. Impossible to bend down and sit on my ankles. Only right side of right knee affected.
Hopefully with rest it might miraculously heal itself in time but I'm not holding out much hope.
Did you get any marked swelling and redness when you did it? Whatever the answer, I'd strongly advise seeing a physio (or doctor with some interest in MSK) as soon as you can. I'm not going to start pointless conjecture on what it might be; someone needs to have a look at that as a precaution I'd say. Hope it improves!
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Shark: out of interest have you ever done 1st bolt to the top?
The second is very low - 4 hand moves in. Don't think I could forgive myself doing it from any lower
Fuck it - it's basically a tick - I'd take it...
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Power Club
Mon - system static half crimp +8 kg. 4x4, very pleased. Low intensity PE, 1' on, 1' off x5 completed all the sets, very pleased! Dumbbell complex x2, trap work. Good session.
Tue - rest.
Wed - dumbbell complex warmup, standing ab wheel, 3x3, strong; ab wheel 1 paused set; muscle snatch 5x5, 36 kg; cleans 5x5, 46 kg. Good session.
Thu - 30' boxing bag, climbing class. Abs DOMS.
Fri - cleans, snatch pulls, 5x5 46 kg. Anti rotation stuff. Trap work.
Sat - some one arm deadhangs, some board climbing. System dynamic, 2-6 and down x5 +8 kg, 1-6 and static x5 +2 kg. Boxing bag. Amazing.
Sun - rest.
Good week, generally satisfied. Increased volume for the half crimp system hangs, went from 8 to 16 sets, with two kg more. The Power of the Half Crimp. Body tension quite good, managed to do sets of 3 of standing ab wheel, which is good. In the past I'd already done it, but with a slightly hyperextended spine, which is not good. Now I always concentrate on maintaining a slight posterior pelvic tilt as prescribed by The Bible of T-Nation. It's much harder, as two days of abs DOMS proved. Lots of anti-rotation stuff.
PE seems good and I also tried some one arm hangs with good vibes.
But I can't emphasize enough how good is the boxing bag: it has everything you need for power AND conditioning, speed, muscular work, HIIT, mobility. It's the best thing in the world. Apart from the undercling projects on my board.
Probably best athletic shape in my life.
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F - met Tomtom for a quick session at W3 on the Square. Didn't feel brilliant, but fancied a potter anyhow. just started to warm up when I got on to the Square, a fairly easy good problem. On the last move I somehow pinged off (no idea how)
Feet landed on the mat, but the rest of me spazzed into the dip to the right. Knew straight away I'd done something to my knee, feels like a sprain, but managed to hobble off back to work. Felt like a right tit.
Evening - managed to drive to Bedford thanks to cruise control and not much traffic. applied compression, went to bed
S - Interruted night sleep. Woke up to a very painful knee. Couldn't weight it. Sat down all day. Applied Ice every 3 hours for 30mins. compression sock, kept it elevated. Paracetamol. Managed to limp out to a chinese restaurant in evening. painful
S - Bad night sleep. Woke up at 5.30 due to very painful neck and shoulder. Whiplash? took painkillers, it's slowly subsided through the day. Knee marginally better, I can now weight it. Think the ice and rest on Saturday did it good. Managed to walk if knee kept straight. Any slight twist feels very painful. No visible swelling. Can't climb stairs properly. Impossible to bend down and sit on my ankles. Only right side of right knee affected.
I've no clue how I managed to drop the top of the square, I've done it a few times before. It was most likely just being a bit distracted. But anyway, it looks like I've knackered myself for the Torridon trip next week, even if I can climb I won't want to be falling on my knee it feels far too fragile at the moment.
It's fair to say I'm pretty pissed off with the situation but trying to remain positive.
Hopefully with rest it might miraculously heal itself in time but I'm not holding out much hope.
:( really sorry about that Rick - I have spotters guilt, you kind of span around in mid air and went in an odd direction.. hopefully it will ease up.. :/
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Shark: out of interest have you ever done 1st bolt to the top?
The second is very low - 4 hand moves in. Don't think I could forgive myself doing it from any lower
So youve done the route minus 4 hand moves at the start? Didn't realise you were that close...
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Go Simon!
rginns: what Toby said.
STG: Shoulder maintenance exercises at least twice weekly. Steep bouldering or fingerboard twice weekly. Try a 7b.
MTG: tbc.
LTG: Font 7A. Sport 7b+. Something properly long, hard and free (and ideally in condition in August).
M - Westway bouldering to ~V3.
T - Shoulder rehab. exercises.
W - Westway bouldering to ~V3.
T -
F -
S - Millstone, with the retired super-alpinist, the foreign correspondent, and the guru of Wadi Rum. Bond Street, Great North Road, Embankments 1-4, and Time for Tea original. I've no record of doing the latter before, felt a bit stern for E1, but perhaps I traversed too high or was just tired and a bit poorly.
S - Man ‘flu.
Easing back into things. Shoulder 70% and improving. Had intended to go sport climbing this weekend but forecast better oop north and not keen on the Peak offerings at my grades. On reflection Easy Trad. was the sensible choice.
Plan: more bouldering / start projecting something.
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Time for Tea original. ... felt a bit stern for E1
It was a long time ago, but I recall thinking it was borderline E1/2. And being disappointed with myself for not questing out left instead.
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Time for Tea original
felt a bit stern for E1
That was my experience too, in fact I wasn't entirely convinced that TfT itself is any harder just a bit run out.
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STG; 7a on actual rock, not plastic. oh shit going to Font in 6 weeks - maintain punter level and don't get injured.
MTG: continue to raise the plastic pyramid past peak of f7b
After climbing three days over the weekend my body was goosed. Next climb was Wednesday night and once I dialled in at the wall I ticked a 7a-ish on the new plastic set.
Then next day did my core power set up to 100kg on the weights rack. Friday was rest and travel and then Saturday I hit a new set 6b-7b and ticked 8 off the list so back to where I was. Happy. Now working through the font 7+8 app to pick some projects for the weekend I am there.
I've booked some early morning yoga sessions and also booked some sessions with the person who coached me last year to build up for weekend.
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Shark: out of interest have you ever done 1st bolt to the top?
The second is very low - 4 hand moves in. Don't think I could forgive myself doing it from any lower
So youve done the route minus 4 hand moves at the start? Didn't realise you were that close...
Three times now and last go on the Monday
Does involve 10 foot moves though
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Do those ten moves faster and you're in. New training regime for you, learn to do this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlVbzuARvh0
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F - met Tomtom for a quick session at W3 on the Square. Didn't feel brilliant, but fancied a potter anyhow. just started to warm up when I got on to the Square, a fairly easy good problem. On the last move I somehow pinged off (no idea how)
Feet landed on the mat, but the rest of me spazzed into the dip to the right. Knew straight away I'd done something to my knee, feels like a sprain, but managed to hobble off back to work. Felt like a right tit.
Evening - managed to drive to Bedford thanks to cruise control and not much traffic. applied compression, went to bed
S - Interruted night sleep. Woke up to a very painful knee. Couldn't weight it. Sat down all day. Applied Ice every 3 hours for 30mins. compression sock, kept it elevated. Paracetamol. Managed to limp out to a chinese restaurant in evening. painful
S - Bad night sleep. Woke up at 5.30 due to very painful neck and shoulder. Whiplash? took painkillers, it's slowly subsided through the day. Knee marginally better, I can now weight it. Think the ice and rest on Saturday did it good. Managed to walk if knee kept straight. Any slight twist feels very painful. No visible swelling. Can't climb stairs properly. Impossible to bend down and sit on my ankles. Only right side of right knee affected.
I've no clue how I managed to drop the top of the square, I've done it a few times before. It was most likely just being a bit distracted. But anyway, it looks like I've knackered myself for the Torridon trip next week, even if I can climb I won't want to be falling on my knee it feels far too fragile at the moment.
It's fair to say I'm pretty pissed off with the situation but trying to remain positive.
Hopefully with rest it might miraculously heal itself in time but I'm not holding out much hope.
:( really sorry about that Rick - I have spotters guilt, you kind of span around in mid air and went in an odd direction.. hopefully it will ease up.. :/
Oh blimey Tom, it's not your fault I don't think you could have caught that anyway, like you say it was a bit of a weird off.
One of those things, I've got physio this week so hopefully I'll get an idea of what I need to do.
I can still be doing some hangs and core stuff so it's not all lost.
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In retrospect we could have had that edge (over the hole) padded out a bit more.. that said, that would have meant no second pad where you planted your side pretty heavily... which might have done some shoulder/rib damage otherwise... an odd fall though. Anyway.. fingers crossed...
My week (having not climbed the week before):
M:
Tu: Rockcity, Hull. First time I've been in 3-4 years. Since then upstairs has been refurbished with 'the abyss' and theres some other wall bit way down a load of corridors called the boiler room. If it were a night club, it'd be the room you were scared of going into.. but it wasn't that exciting I'm afraid. Much had changed physically about the place, but it still had the same atmosphere (make of that what you will). Still, only £9........ Moving on... I actually enjoyed myself. Got stuck into some crimpy 7A's - that were all small edges screwed onto the edge of small volumes - really nice (and it hurt to say that :) ).
We:
Th: Morning trip to ubicRon. Hope to nail Bigger Splash Directismma.. Pah... creaky old bastard mode instead. But made progress on Bigger Splash Sidepullissema version... hips in and pull hard old man... but still no cigar.
Fr: Wilton 3 with Rginns... :( Climbing wise rubbish TBH...
Sa:
Su: IKEA in the morning! Whoop whoop whoop whoop whoop. I know you can get a hot dog at the end as a reward for completing the stage, but.... Still, the bairn behaved himself. Thanks to my family IKEA shopping credits (tm) I managed to secure a late afternoon pass and legged it to Brownstones... remembered how to do Hanks Wall and zoomed up Pigswill variants..
Then got to work on Dezertion (F7A)... Its a daft problem. A high step with a poorish arete hold to an off balance barn door dyno for a sharp edge. But its a problem I should be able to do but can't. I got close, closer, close, further etc.. then as light failed found some microbeta in how I was holding the arete - and managed to do the harder eliminate version using a different starting hold (7B). Real last last last last go, getting dark, cut hands effort. Felt goooooood.
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tune in next week for another edition of.....who did shark climb with this week!?
Dense says hi
Don't spoil the surprise!
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STG: Heal finger
MTG: Get solid at 7B/+
LTG: 8A
M: Ab Ripper X
T: Indoors, bouldering and some FOC
W: Squash, got beaten by housemate
T: Ab Ripper X
F:
S: No outdoors this weekend as went out for my birthday. Really good session indoors in the morning, did a load of Reds (v4-6) and a white (v5-7) I'd worked before
S: Hungover squash round robin; beat one housemate, lost to another
Fairly productive week, getting out again this weekend :)
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Still no cigar on BSD? I am surprised. Weeks back you so nearly had it. More rest days needed then give it hell?
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Still no cigar on BSD? I am surprised. Weeks back you so nearly had it. More rest days needed then give it hell?
Too much time off - lost the little edge I had... it also makes my right elbow feel a little tweaky - so don't feel quite like going full beans on it...
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I just overheard a TV ad for something called a "Shark Rocket Hand Stick"
I recon that if Shark (and everyone else at The Cove) shouts this loud enough at the right moment, he will stick the horn easily and romp to victory
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A shark rocket hand stick will give him the horn for sure!
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Weight – 64.3kgs average. Up over a kilo from last week. Need to sort this out pronto it could easily snowball / balloon…
Yeah man - no more cakes for you fatty!
71.8kg (target 70kg without cutting out the cakes)
M: fuckin finally got over manflu after 2 weeks! Celebrated by staying up til 3.30am operating..
T: session on advanced training at beginner's with murph - both of us quite pathetic to begin with, then we warmed up to it and after figuring best beta yet murph dropped it from the last move - d'oooooh! Skin deserted me just as I felt ready to do it
W: work, work, work
T: deadlift day :) 9 sets block lifts - PB of 225 off 1" blocks - Happy with this as I'm strong off the floor; my sticking point is between 1" and 2" so I might be good for the full lift next week..
Squats - 6 sets of 100s/110s
F: work,work,work
S: BM2K max hangs small crimp, open crimp - 8 sets up to +35x8s and +40x4s
S: Stoke awesome walls - 1.5hrs problems up to V7, 6 sets per side x system rockover static holds on moonboard, campus board 3 sets per side 4 to 1 drop downs, ring dips 3x3
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Forgive me, for I have sinned ... much and often. I was climbing a little earlier in the year but recent months have been a washout: too much work, too much travel; too much fun.
Since I moved to the US about 7 weeks ago I'd go out a couple of times, both in sweltering, buggy conditions. Last week "Fall" began to arrive.
M - 50 push ups, 15 pull ups. I'm in such terrible condition that even such minimal exercise is going to do something
T - South Mountain Big Rock Park - my local spot, ten minutes from the house. Its a funny one, the rocks nearest the entrance are clearly frequented by teenagers and incredibly grafittied but as you go down the hill that (almost) disappears and the blocks are dotted about a lovely quiet stretch of forest. The weather was lovely, cool in the shade, warm sun, gentle breeze, zero humidity. I have a tiny bit of sketchy information and have so far concentrated on the so called "Best Boulder" - this has a good slightly overhanging face about 14 foot square. I'd previously done the central crack/faultline (supposedly V2 from standing V4 from sitting) and the wall just to its left (V2 from standing, maybe V3 from hanging on a slightly lower shelf). This time I warmed up on the really nice right aerate from standing and then sitting (maybe V1 and V2) before doing the central line and the lefthand one from the lower start before realising an excellent proper SDS was possible to it. Did that at about V4 and then a slightly eliminate direct up the left arete from the same sit, a touch harder. Then realised a good problem would be possible right of the right arete, V2. Finally I spied a traverse from the right arete to the left. That went quickly too, again at about V4. What a beautiful day, alone in the woods for a couple of hours playing about on rock and feeling vaguely competent.
W - push-up/pull-up regime.
T - push-up/pull-up regime. Then realised I could get out for an hour and popped out to South Mountain. I'd wanted to get on a different block that has a couple of really good looking lines but so far its always been super buggy. Went back to Best Boulder and warmed up on the right arete x 2, the line to its right, and the lefthand line from low and sitting. Then moved round to the other side of the block where there is harder looking arete. To my surprise that too went after a number of goes - a really great problem, cool moves, good rock, and definitely a little harder than any of the other stuff (my grading is total guesswork at this point). Then managed to squeeze out a thin wall on an adjacent boulder, maybe V4 again. Found two walls that don't look to have been climbed on before, should give a couple of quite good problems. Another great little session.
F - lying awake in the morning I realised the Best Boulder face would be even better traversed L to R. An incredibly quick visit saw that go to, again around V4 (I was hoping this would put up more resistance). Finished off with an easy flake line protected by a horrible little start move.
S - nowt
S - nowt
Sorry about the gushing detail but its been just really nice to get out again and move over rock.
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Last week "Fall" began to arrive.
Ha. Since moving to north america, I have really struggled to remember to use that word (what is wrong with "autumn", exactly?). Ditto calling petrol "gas", though on reflection I suppose that makes more sense ... petroleum being crude oil, gasoline the relevant distillate?
I remember the first time I tried to ask my american-english speaking spouse if the Spanish word “gas” was petrol or diesel. That was a confused conversation. (Autumn is latin. The season should be called harvest, as in proper languages. Fall will do.)
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Autumn is latin. The season should be called harvest, as in proper languages. Fall will do.
I didn't know "Herbst" comes from the same old Germanic root as English "harvest". Now I do. Thanks.
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I like autumn, and autumnal even more, but Fall seems apt too. Besides, I looks like autumn, but doesn't feel like it.
I haven't said "gas" yet, voluntarily or otherwise.
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It's not the names of seasons that's wrong - the duration. Winter and Summer should be 4 months long and spring and autumn 2 (or even less)...
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Mon. 30 warm up problems, then repeaters 5 secs on 5 off X 5 5 sets with 39.5 lbs added. Bike 39.78 miles 2 hrs 25 mins.
Tue. Work.
Wed. Work. Board in the evening worked a couple of new problems, did one of them failed on its mirror image.
Thu. Bike 27.88 miles 1 hr 45 mins got soaked.
Fri. Board did problem. I couldn't do on Tuesday repeated other one as well, worked another problem which I did after almost giving up on it.
Sat. Bike 51.06 miles 2 hrs 58 mins.
Sun. Board worked and did 4 new problems, well old ones with no kick board.
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I hope it's ok for me to join; I've been more pressured for time recently and my climbing has suffered so I was hoping this would provide more motivation.
M Foundry, bouldering on the wave
T
W Competition at the climbing Hangar in Liverpool, wasn't strong and my technique was off.
T
F
S The Matrix, going through the new problems, felt alright
S
STG 7A again
MTG stronger fingers
LTG Shit, Ben's roof
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M: Lunch: Core
T: Lunch: Antag and Core circuit
Eve: PlasPower - 2 x 10 mins ARC warm up
25' board - Set some new problems, 2 easy and one 7A, created and tried a slopey crimp problem as training for proj, couldn't do 2 of the moves, happy as I find it hard to set stuff on this angle that is at/above my limit.
Quick play on the 45' did the crux moves in isolation of a few old problems I set at the beginning of the year, didn't feel too hard.
10 min ARC warm down
W: Lunch: Core
T: PlasPower - 10 mins ARC warm-up
25' board - Did a new 6A+ of a mates, continued to attack pinch/slopey crimp/holds weakness. Did a new 6C/+ and 7A, both really powerful and long pulls on slopers and pinches.
45' board - Did some cruxes of old problems from last winter, worked some new moves on new project.
10 mins ARC warm-down
F: Equipping new route
S: Did new route, a very good and techy 7a+/b, similar in style and quality to some of the better routes on Upper Pen Trwyn.
S: Massive amount of stretching/nerve glides etc.
Forearms were screaming with cramp again on Saturday, first time this has happened for awhile, maybe not warming up enough now it's colder outside? Arms super pumped and painful after doing the new route which is a vert tech route so shouldn't be happening, not sure what's flared it up again because I feel fine bouldering. Numbness and tightness back with a vengeance on Sunday, lots of stretching etc. now. The saga continues...
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STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), in
July October
MTG:
LTG: 8c, by June 2018
Strength/PE phase
M. Brothers's wedding in London. Drove 11hrs round trip for 1.5 hr wedding. M1 shut both ways at Northhampton.
T. Flew to Munich via Brussels. Ate/drank chips and mustard with leffe in brussels, sausages with mustard/ weissbier in Munich
W. IRATA conference. Displays at Bad Tolz mountain rescue centre. Went to Boulderwelt east in evening. Crazy busy, busiest wall I've ever been to. Managed 146 on smalls and a couple of the second hardest coloured probs. Weisbier for afters.
T. IRATA conference Munich. Pizza and weissbeir. Poor night's sleep.
F. Drove to Frankenjura at warp speed. Plan had been to pick up girlfriend from Nuremberg airport at 6pm. Received text at 3pm to say her flight to Stanstead had been delayed and she'd missed the connecting flight to Nuremberg. £180 later and a flight to Stuttgart arranged. Blasted to Stuttgart and back at more than warp-speed. Got back to Frankenjura at 3am totally fucked. 3hrs sleep.
S. Lay in till midday. Found a gasthaus and ate big cakes. Roter Fels, did four 6as/5+s. Dinner and weisbeer.
S. Weissenstein. Did 4 6a/5+s. OS'd the steep 3 star 7a. Found a gasthaus and ate big cakes. Blasted to airport at lightspeed. Final plate of saturate fatty suasages and weisbeer, and cake.
Feel like I've driven around the planet this week. Wheels have totally fallen off training for Mecca. Supposed to be going to Tor this Wednesday to start trying route, but can't get away from work to go. Maybe Friday. Miles off where I could/should be..
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Really need to sort the sleep, affecting the rest of life quite severely now. Had ok weekend so far though, if I get a decent chunk tonight I'll be a lot happier, if not I think I'll be in the chemist at lunch tomorrow :-(
I sympathise Duma, not sleeping, or sleeping well affects everything else, and is just purely annoying in its own right. I've been wondering about getting one of those gradual wake up / sleep light / alarms: might be worth trying? I assume you've already tried all the standard 'sleep hygiene' measures already?
During a bout of sustained insomnia years ago, i necked a zopliclone and a bottle of beer before bedtime after a few drinks earlier in the evening; out like a light for about 14 hours... I woke up feeling rank though.
Tried a zinc tablet with meal before bed?
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M. dumbbell complex n.1 5 x 3: clean, press, squat. dumbbell complex n.2 10 reps each side snatch, farmers carry, sit ups, plank rows
T. rings circuit x 5 : plank, push ups, dips, top position
W. yoga
T. dumbbell complex n.1 then weigthed pull ups
F. nothing
S. same as Monday
S. Bouldering. Hot and humid. Lacking some body tensions compared to last season.