UKBouldering.com

the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: shark on July 11, 2016, 07:26:54 pm

Title: [Peak] [Stanage North] [The Monkey Face] [7C]
Post by: shark on July 11, 2016, 07:26:54 pm

(http://i.imgur.com/oH9rnmQ.jpg)

John Welford did a new problem last winter pictured above which he thinks is the FA - I've no idea where it is but I think Bonjoy is in the know

Title: Re: [Peak] [Stanage North] [The Monkey Face] [7C]
Post by: dave on July 11, 2016, 07:30:20 pm

It's on the buttress just south of the Microbe/Old Salt area.

Title: Re: [Peak] [Stanage North] [The Monkey Face] [7C]
Post by: T_B on July 11, 2016, 07:53:32 pm

It's a FA. I cleaned it a bit a year last April, but it's quite scrittley/high/hard. Never properly tried it. There's a line just to the right as well. Nice one John.

Title: Re: [Peak] [Stanage North] [The Monkey Face] [7C]
Post by: Tommy on July 11, 2016, 08:12:38 pm

Welford? 7C?

Does that mean it could be anywhere from 7C to 8A?!  ;D

Title: Re: [Peak] [Stanage North] [The Monkey Face] [7C]
Post by: masonwoods101 on July 11, 2016, 08:18:21 pm

Looks good. Flying arete but welford 7c

Title: Re: [Peak] [Stanage North] [The Monkey Face] [7C]
Post by: Bonjoy on July 12, 2016, 12:58:20 pm

Great stuff. I knew John had done this but didn't realise it would climb like that. Looks better than I'd thought.

Title: Re: [Peak] [Stanage North] [The Monkey Face] [7C]
Post by: T_B on July 12, 2016, 01:30:16 pm

It's actually pretty big and it's not a flat landing. Though I never really gave it a proper go, I suspect it's Welford 7C ( ;)) as just getting out from beneath the roof is hard and the arete/that pocket are very rounded. The line up the middle might go with a gaston and a desperate shouldery press for a sloping finger rail. I was put off by the general scrittliness tbh.

Title: Re: [Peak] [Stanage North] [The Monkey Face] [7C]
Post by: Dolly on July 12, 2016, 05:44:48 pm

John did the line to the right as well - said it was easier than the left hand one

Title: Re: [Peak] [Stanage North] [The Monkey Face] [7C]
Post by: monkey boy on April 30, 2017, 03:22:22 pm

http://peakbouldering.info/areas/1-eastern-grit/crags/41-stanage-left/boulders/1138-monkey-face/problems/6117-monkey-face#.WQXyx1KZOuU

I have added this problem to peak bouldering. If anyone, more in the know, wants to edit the details then do so.

Hopefully the video will entice some more attention, it's a great last move!

https://vimeo.com/215300839

Title: Re: [Peak] [Stanage North] [The Monkey Face] [7C]
Post by: andy_e on May 02, 2017, 09:20:42 am

That looks ace! Burly roof moves to a big slap, sounds like Eclipse!