UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Fingers of a Martyr on August 30, 2004, 07:59:07 pm
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just thought i'd say this first. i've stopped training so much. 1 session of training 1 day of rest. or sometimes if i'm just climbing i'll do 2 sessions of bouldering followed by 1 day of rest. and i feel stronger and better for it. flashing 8a's all the over the place now. :wink:
basically when i lock on a bar at 90 with my left arm, when i release the grip i get a shooting pain down along the 'fin muscle' of my fore arm. it feels bruised. it doesn't hurt when resting, holding full or 120 locks or when just bouldering. just upon the release of grip when hanging at 90. i've stopped doing locks and am taking it very easy now. 1 day on 1 day off of just doing boulder problems. it been going on for about 3/4 days now.
it doesn't hurt when holding locks front on with two arms either.
on another note i did smack the same part of my forearm the other day pretty bloody hard on a metal bar which may be why it feels bruised.
i'm doing more forearm stretching than usual now and also icing it up for 15 minutes a night? is this the right thing to do? any suggestions on what it might be?
cheerz
jonny
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Yes. I had a very sim thing to me, espesially on the left arm, when locking off on the campus board espesially.
No matter what i did it wouldnt stop hurting, untill, i lowered the amount of time i spent at the wall.
Basically I stopped doing one arm locks for a about 5 weeks, but still doing full locks between moves, if you get what I mean. And the problem seems to have gone. I just put it down to to much climbing and Re-coil
hope this works
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thanx neil. thats put my mind to rest. so it wasn't tendonitis?
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No not Tendonitus, but wasnt far off. Just cool it for a few weeks, then make sure you get a proper warm up, before going back into locks
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cheerz mate.
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Try some arnica on the bruise. The stuff in a gel from the health food shops will help as will heat and ice one after the other
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cheerz dylan. i also bought myself one of those metolius 'gripmaster' things today to help strengthen my forearms up.
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what did i tell u about lockin off? :wink:
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p.s. jims gonna be the next casualty :lol:
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yeah but dense the pain isn't where u described 'the inside of the elbow joint' which is why i'm confident :? it ain't anything too serious. :wink:
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right i'm still resting an taking it pretty easy blah blah etc.
but i'm still fairly worried that i may have got tendonitis in me left arm. i've read sum shit on the internet and the stuff in horsts book.
he says when the forearm stretches, that he says are good for stopping it (tendonitis of the elbow) coming back, don't hurt then its time to start climin again. however their's no pain and never has been when i do these stretches so do u think that means i definitly don't have tendonitis?
cheerz
jonny
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blondie you haven't got tendonitis. it will be where you hit your arm with that big piece of metal, that you where trying to curl while doing one-armers :wink:
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i fuckin wish dense, i fuckin wish. :roll:
is tendonitis of the elbow really painful then, as in need to take pain killers painful?
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if you're worried about elbow tendonitis, then do loads of pushups.
After every session on the campus board, I make sure to do at least 150 pushups, as it really builds the antagonistic muscles that can prevent tendonitis.
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I make sure to do at least 150 pushups
:shock:
will do dom. dunno if i can do 150 though.
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I make sure to do at least 150 pushups
:shock:
will do dom. dunno if i can do 150 though.
Split them into 3 sets of 50. You'd be suprised at how quickly you can work your way up to 150.
I've not had a single elbow problem, and I put it all down to pushups.
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wrist curls worked for me when i got knackered elbows last year (the result of 10 days solid climbing at Araps - well, it was sunny, the rock/routes were sooooo good and it was only 10 days - it all fell apart when someone suggested going and doing kachoong on my planned rest day)
any how, use a light ish weight, do both palm up and down, and also try taking the weights off one end of a dumb bell and rotation side to side. Think i was doing a few reps of about 30 of each exercise and it worked a treat (and is no doubt far less effort than 150 push ups!)
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I've not had a single elbow problem, and I put it all down to pushups.
Is that Dom with the phantom shoulder injury?
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I've not had a single elbow problem, and I put it all down to pushups.
Is that Dom with the phantom shoulder injury?
Nope. I am, mercilessly and touch wood etc etc, uninjured at the moment.
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Sorry, I knew a guy who had a long term shoulder injury. He eventually went for surgery only to be opened up and nothing was wrong with his shoulder :lol:
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Think i was doing a few reps of about 30 of each exercise and it worked a treat (and is no doubt far less effort than 150 push ups!)
i'll do both to make sure cos i'm terrified of getting a serious injury. the metolious gripmaster has a specific excercise to work the top/back fore arm muscles as well to stop imbalances causing elbow tendonitis as well.
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Tendonitis is more rare than you think. It would take some serious overtraining to bring it on. The pain usually turns out to be refered from elsewhere in the body e.g. the shoulders, back or BEING HIT BY A FUCKIN METAL BAR :lol:
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BEING HIT BY A FUCKIN METAL BAR
:lol:
but i was getting the pain when locking at ninety before i hit my arm. i'm sure it will be ok though. i'm just doing a lot of balancing out excercises and 2 sessions of bouldering per week few weeks just to be sure.
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Tendonitis is more rare than you think. It would take some serious overtraining to bring it on. The pain usually turns out to be refered from elsewhere in the body e.g. the shoulders, back or BEING HIT BY A FUCKIN METAL BAR :lol:
Nah, when I'd been climbing for about 6 months I got elbow and forearm tendonitis from doing maybe 50 pullups every second day..
Of course, I was (and still am) weak as piss and a heavy bastard, so that probably was serious overtraining.
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so how did u sort it out dom? the tendonitis.
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so how did u sort it out dom? the tendonitis.
I rested for 2 weeks and did loads of pushups (that's where I learned about doing pushups as a preventative measure).
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sweet as. cheerz dom.
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fingers read this book.pain free by pete egoscue.it will cost about a tenner from amazon.
i got this to treat my back but its got elbow advice which i used when physio and two injections failed to sort out my elbow tenndenitis.it was pain on the inside of the elbow[golfers elbow].i'd also worn a brace,taped it done wrist curls etc.
worth a try as they won't cause you any damage.
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will do webbo. cheerz.
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http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/0553379887/qid=1094222717/sr=1-2/ref=sr_1_11_2/026-9483082-4413268
is this the right book webbo?
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yep.