UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: csl on June 19, 2016, 12:32:45 pm
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New goals
STG - the next 6 weeks
Rehab finger
Get on an 8a
MTG - next 3 months
Tick a few off this list
Dominatrix, New Dawn, Biological Need, Tennessee, Paradise Lost, Realm of Chaos, Colours, Stay Golden, Frazzled
LTG - end of year
8a
Mon
a couple of warm ups then did Blocage Violent. 3rd redpoint attempt this trip, what a route! 7b++, and an absolute classic. So much fitter than i thought i was when i first tried, found i could shake out on a lot of the holds.
Tried to flash Aller en Chine but puntered off, think i injured my finger on this!
Tue
Woke up with a really painful A2 pulled on my ring finger. Bugger! Did one easy route to see how it felt.
Wed
Rest
Thu
Orpierre - horrible weather. Did a 6a+ before the rain came.
Fri
Back at Ceuse and managed quite a lot of volume without finger hurting. Did 5 routes including Harley Davidson and Trou Line again.
Sat
Chateauvert
Did a 38m 6b called Arielle and onsighted the mega juggy 7a called Les Frontiers du Neant. Felt pretty easy but v. polished!
Travel back home...
Sun
A quick session at the Arch to try and assess how bad finger injury is. Didn't really feel any pain at all doing lots of easyish problems up to V4ish.
A shame to injure my finger whilst on a trip, but the weather was so crap for the second week i doubt i'd have gotten much done! Doesn't seem too bad so a few weeks of rehab and i should be ready to train again. New goals are to get on an 8a next time i get out.
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Monday – Re created The Prow on my board:
Fingery 15 move 7b+ to a reasonable rest
Technical / pumpy 30 move 7b to a good rest
Technical / pumpy 20 move 7b+/7c to a good rest
Powerful 20 move 7b+
3 hour sesh, setting and 2 red points. Failed midway through last pitch. Think its a fair reflection of the Prow. Now just have to wait another 2 months for the real thing to dry out…
Finished off with:
20 pull ups x 3 sets
20 close in push ups x 3 sets
Tuesday – Torr
Long warm up waiting for Simon…
First look at The Call of Nature – felt strong and light, figured out all of the moves apart from crux, which felt totally nails.
Second time up I think Simon had swapped all the holds off Hubble, useless, powered down, finger tips on fire, A2 hurting
Sacked it off, think I was tired from yesterday
6k trail run late afternoon
Weds – Rest day, drove to North Wales and back, wish I’d taken my bouldering gear, weather glorious.
Thursday – 2.5hr session on my board
Early am 6k trial run
Warm up
Managed my mock up Prow in a oner ! 18 minutes on route.
15 minute rest and did it again.
15 minute rest, failed early on
Perhaps its a bit easy if I can do it so quick…will make the good rests not so good..
Finished of with 3 x 20 pull ups
Friday – Torr, 2nd sesh on Call of Nature
Long warm up
Bolt to bolt, worked some moves
Big link from mid crux (right hand on ear, left on first crimp) to top
Got the crux sorted.
Finger tips on fire, called it a day and performed belay duty for Simon.
Saturday – Pull up drills.
Pumped up from yesterday’s positive session at Torr
Early am 6k trial run (in reverse)
Added an additional set into the mix
4 sets 1 x 1 arm pull ups (left / right)
4 sets 5 x 1 arm assisted (left / right) cord mid chest.
4 sets 12 x weighted pull up (20kg)
4 sets 15 pull ups, 20 press ups and a 7a circuit back to back.
Sunday – Feel totally busted, Rest day.
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M - Nothing, very sore throat.
T - Had the afternoon off, planned to go straight from work to the forest, but the weather was crap. Decided to come home and do a BM session as I was feeling a bit sick. Did 1 set, first session for months.
W - Ill
Th - Indoor session, felt good, did a lot of steeper stuff. Feel fresher, pills maybe?
F - rest
S - Frozen marguerita party...got to bed not too late.
Su -Headed off from a grey Paris to an even worse looking Apremont, almost didn't bother getting out of the car, but decided to have walk away to clear the head. The plan was to go and do the beginning of the Salmon circuit, and if it got too sunny :???: go and hide out at Butte aux dames.
Fell off no. 74 the last problem of the circuit and sprained my ankle from all of 15cm up. This wouldn't have been so bad if I'd actually done all the circuit,but it was the first problem of the day, a 3m high 4+. I heard a snapping sound, so I'm relieved it's just a sprain, very painful, although I can still walk on it....at the moment.
BM for me this week I imagine.
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Back at work this week, getting back into the swing of training...
Mon: Indoor bouldering. Felt heavy, unsurprisingly. Wanted to do some weighted deadhangs but forgot my harness.
Tues: Weights at lunch - DLs and KB swings; 30 min treadmill run in the PM.
Wed: 30 mins fast walk on the treadmill at lunch. Very quick weighted max hangs session in the PM
Thurs: Bouldering outdoors - finished off a 7B+ish thing that I'd fallen off on Sunday but didn't feel properly warmed up and powered out on the other, longer problems I tried later.
Fri: First Crossfit session in the morning. Was quite hard, and I felt quite powered out through the workout. 30 mins fast walk on the treadmill at lunch.
Sat: Bouldering. Drove 50 mins and hiked 20 mins, only to get rained on before we'd reached the boulders. Reversed the process and went to the gym. Good session in the end, ended with some weighted max hangs. Finished the day with wine, cheese and charcuterie while watching the SA - Ireland rugby.
Sun: Wine tasting. Might go for a quick run later, but will probably just take a rest day.
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STG: Get fit/strong again!
MTG: Get solid on 7B/+ boulder and 7b/+ sport and find/do a project
LTG: 8A & 8a
Two weeks here as was away on holiday...
M - 2.6km run, rugby kick-about in the park
T - F nothing
S - following Sunday Away in Malta diving, lots of lugging tanks and gear about
Very gluttonous week in Malta, the training begins tomorrow!
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STG (June/July): get a couple of decent alpine rock routes done.
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
Was feeling somewhat cumulatively battered and ready to take an easier week or two anyway, so the timing of my current suspected case of Lyme's disease (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11029.msg525993.html#msg525993) could hardly have been better ;)
M: Rest day. 30 minutes shoulder physio stuff & general mobility.
T: Beastmaker max hangs (maintenance)
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Ten routes up to 6c+. Felt pretty weak & tired, but on reflection this may be because I was trying more hardish (6c - 6+) things than I normally do in a wall session, and with much shorter rests than I normally take on a sport climbing day. Or possibly just weak.
T: Sudden red rash around two week old tick bite on leg oh shit.
F: Doc not until Monday. Rash looking ring-shaped?
S: Beastmaker max hangs not requiring use of infected leg. Good session, slight improvement on a couple of previous pbs. Two weeks of doxycycline w/associated shits & weight loss should bring further improvement yyfy.
S: Rest day, raining. DAV Alpine Museum with M jnr, wished I were C19th Himalayan explorer. Would probably catch far worse things than Lyme's though.
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STG: climb as many 7A/+ and 7b-7c as possible. Find 7c+ project.
MTG: 1. French 7c+, before 1/1/17. 2. Get into shape for Spain.
3. Tick unfinished business list (5/13).
4. Font 7B before 1/1/17.
LTG: 1. Cider Soak and Academic, before 1/1/18. 2. Font 7B+, before 1/1/18.
M - First day of training program such that it is. Not mentally there today, far too tired and other stuff going on. Four rests days unhelpful as well. Wanted to do some kind of what I think is ancap. Basically ended up bouldering, and badly at that, because I failed to redpoint my ancap circuit. Wednesday will have to be better.
T - Rest, long day work.
W - Ancap (I think). Bouldered for around an hour to warm up. Then 5 reps up V4 down V2 up V4, 5 mins between reps. Failed on rep 6 around 70% through. Felt like I was working something. Felt pretty awesome actually.
T - Short hard beast maker session. 5 sets 3 mins between. 5 reps per set, 5 sec on, 10 off half crimp. Felt good.
F - Rest.
S - Vague hangs and pull ups off flat jug in girlfriends parents house.
S - 3 sets of 10 hanging leg raises throughout day. So nothing essentially, but resting tomorrow as Portland Tues hopefully.
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Goals:
June/July - Powerplant?, Peak WIPS.
Autumn - Raindogs, LHS Tor.
M - rest
T - went to Rubicon to do LI AeroCap on the long traverse so I could check out what was dry (not the long traverse....).
W - Walked into Cheedale, went to the Tor, only the middle dry, opted for a last try on Obscene Gesture.
Up twice just trying the mono moves but still couldn't do the move out of it. Sacked it off and reasoned I might as well have another look at Obscene Toilet having given it up as too reachy after a play 4-5 years ago. Still couldn't do the long move but watched someone else do the Obscene move using different feet.
Th - rest, mulled over the OG move and realised how I'd seen it done was in fact more logical and more likely than the way I'd tried.
F - Tor, Obscene Gesture for the last time, again.
Few goes with thumb but different feet, didn't work. Tried finger which didn't work either until I twisted it 270 degrees and - Click, Click, Whir - did the move. Excitedly climbed the top wall, tricky, keeps coming more than most in this section. Had another go to tidy up the bottom wall and linked mono to top.
First RP attempt felt solid but LH skidded off sidepull coming to match undercuts beneath crux.
rest 10 mins
RP'd with a fight and quite a pump, thought I was off every move from beneath the mono until stood over the overlap. So pumped on top wall that I forgot to clip the last, luckily didn't realise until safely on the jug at the chain, would have been close.
S Foundry with the kids, mostly a belay bunny but bouldered a bit and managed to squeeze in a set of AeroPow bouldering.
Eve - core
S rest
Might have to rethink my STG, only 4 weeks until school holidays now, need to check out the Cornice but not looking too optimistic for PP.
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Nice work on OG nai
Goals:
Summer - lots of local sport, unfinished business with cider soak from 15 years ago, tick Neath Abbey, identify (and if possible do) candidates for:
8A and 8b by next June
69kg. (still pretty hungry though, and ate badly this weekend and not weighed in since sat am)
Body Audit: clear (touch wood)
M: sleep (finished nights mon morning) then TCA in eve, hard bouldering, trying to hold undercuts in the roof and slapping off them as vaguely specific for Hunter's Roof. Repeated finishing sequence of a hard blue (feels 7C+ ish) which I hadn't managed for a few weeks. 1-3.5-6 on both arms too.
T: nowt, drive to cornwall.
W: nowt, drive back.
T: TCA at lunch before eve shift. Bit shit, hot and humid, worse on the blue from monday, tried (and failed miserably on) new 8a (prob more like 8b) circuit.
F: TCA eve more undercutting in the roof, did finish of blue again but felt too humid to get a decent go at the whole thing.
S: work
S: work.
Meh week, hopefully touch some rock this Tuesday.
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10.13- 11.0
MTG eatswood Reverse 7C, Rattle & Hump 7B, Jericho Road 7B and Anger Management 8a+ at Raven Tor, Onsight Reproduction E6 High Tor. Get arse down to Pembroke. Try some new lines
M. Systems board. Afternoon. First time on in ages. Pretty good on Crusher Crimps. Tried an AnCap set - rubbish. Then tried a set of 20:10s - had to abort as getting pumped too quick. Wake Up call! Have neglected this shit for too long
T. Morning. Mizzly grim weather. Feeling tired. Met Nick there who was absurdly psyched as usual. Most of crag wet so even working Prow out so he got on Call of Nature. I dogged up Obscene Toilet. Forearms getting pumped too quickly. Did one redpoint to crux working feet up to set for throw before coming off. Stripped route. Went on Tin Of . Reworked crux. Holds clammy. Led from Sardine ledge to to belay in a oner by the skin of my teeth. Good training. Had a look at CragX on way back. Drenched. Got a flattie - changed wheel. Found out later I had fucked my brand new tyre
W. Foundry Evening. Wave. New problems since last visit. Felt OK. Did 3 of the 4 level 2s on steep section. Tried a white and black spotty
T. Systems board Afternoon. Strong on Crusher crimps. Absolute PB on 2 sets of AnCap ;D
F. AM. Tor. 6th consecutive day of climbing or training. Drier than tuesday which isnt saying much. Put draws in on Obscene Gesture then gave it 3 progressively higher redpoints. Finger endurance still off the pace thouigh. Had a go on Tin Of afterwards for a further workout. Nai got Obscene Gesture with a lot of horse noises. Nick did well on Call Of Nature and is now officially better than me. Overtaken yet again.<sigh>
S.
S. Out with Ben so decided on Froggatt. Went to Todys Playground for a warm up and ended up staying there most of the session as there is a brilliant new problem on the left side Hot Toddy 7A/7A+ Disappointed not to do it but have a good sequence now and confident I can do it if fresh. Ben then had a play on Spinal Tap 6C+ whilst I soloed Chequers Crack and Chequers Buttress. Started drizzling we packed up
Grim depressing weather this week. Looks better this week. Hopefully get out to High Tor this week and penciled in Pembroke the week after.
Monday's session on the systems board demonstrated that my endurance is seriously below par so making a concerted effort to get it back which is a bit ego bruising. The better result on Thursdays session was encouraging but given that I am 5lbs lighter than when I set the previous PB in Dec probably not a "real" PB but nonetheless a massive turnaround from Monday. After Fridays Tor session I realised that the middle finger of my left hand had been getting progressively more sore for a week or so. Had 3 days of icing now and it is much improved but still going to lay off fingerboarding for another week.
Super low carb diet still working well for me despite alcohol. Going to cut down on that this week.
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You're shitting me?
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Bummer
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Hopefully get out to High Tor this week
You got a partner for that? I'm keen to get to High Tor.
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Hopefully get out to High Tor this week
You got a partner for that? I'm keen to get to High Tor.
Provisionally with Nick tomorrow or weds. But he's dipped out of a Tor session this morning due to a split tip so will catch up with him this evening to find out whether it has healed enough. When you free?
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Power Club
Mon - rest.
Tue - bouldering in a sauna gym.
Wed - rest.
Thu - PE, high intensity x2. Very hard. 23 degrees, 60% humidity. Dumbbell complex x2.
Fri - bentover rows 20x5, dumbbell complex. Very hot and very tired. Better than nothing though.
Sat - kneeling ab-wheel, 100 straight roll outs! Barbell complex x2: snatch pulls, cleans, push-press, overhead carry, shoulder carry, waiter carry. Phew!
Sun - Doms! PE, low intensity. 3'15", improved by 5". Then 1'30"x3 with 1'30" rests. Hard. 3' dumbbell complex. Glad as I started wit very tight and tired forearms from previous day.
Good week, glad to test the high intensity PE session with proper timing and all. It's hard. Lower back injury seems definitely over. Also glad that I've managed 100 roll outs, it's both physically and mentally hard. Must get back on the board for some singles.
Study, train, eat, sleep. Repeat ad infinitum.
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Hopefully get out to High Tor this week
You got a partner for that? I'm keen to get to High Tor.
Provisionally with Nick tomorrow or weds. But he's dipped out of a Tor session this morning due to a split tip so will catch up with him this evening to find out whether it has healed enough. When you free?
I can get out Tue, Wed, Thu but restricted to between school runs Tue & Wed, Ok til about 5 on Thu.
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Been away for the last 2 weeks so
Last week; In Rome, ate pizza and walked around
Week before; In Texas, ate Tex Mex and drank beer
Back on it this week
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STG: Loose Kgs added recently. More AnCap and AeroCap training
MTG: tick some routes (by end of summer)
Basically a rest week due to a contracture at my left arm.
M-T: rest
W: some theraband and plank
T: nothing. Went to Nib's presentation of the book "Statement" that he translated in italian. Brilliant.
F: more theraband
S: easy sport climbing. The arm is still aching in some moves, but it seems to be better
S: bodyweight session: theraband warm up, then L.sits, tuck planche, hand stands, plank, then light farmer walks for 10'
Next week I'll try to get back into proper training.
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M - work, 35k on bike in evening, given ofrecast, thought I'd make the most of it.
T - weights and core
W - weather utterly dire. Ended up going to Sports Village and swimming. Didn.t count lengths, but in for 45 mins. 50m pool seems more then double what I'm used to.
T - nothing. prep for party
F - Went to physio, she's concerned thumb can't be fixed by physio alone as almost no progress in 6 weeks, reckons I should see a specialist :( . nothing in evening - prep for party
S - kids party, ate too much cake.
S - dawn start, headed for Fraserburgh (Philorth) based on forecast NE swell. Got there for 6:30, in by 7. Underestimated swell size (must have been shoulder size on the sets), got flogged by many closeouts and hard paddle outs. Good to get in on some bigger stuff though. Home by lunch, broken. Walk to beach and back with kids in afternoon, they both love climbing on the rocks at the moment. Tea at inlaws, too much cake and beer.
Broken today, can't lift arms above shoulder height.
Weight 13st 10!
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STG 8A in 10 days :D
M: Logport wall at Lunchtime... OK session.. First time (I think?) exercising back since my stitches split. Took a while to get back into ot..
T:
W: Logport wall at Lunchtime. Better session. Managed a good few of the V5's but felt a bit futile that I couldn't do any better.. Stone Roses in the evening. Had about 8 pints of pissy lager (mostly at £5 a pint... eek..)
Th: Not too hungover... amazingly.
Fr:
Sa: Blackstone Edge with Fatneck and MrsFatneck... great day out. First time on the rock in probably 2 months... Climbed OK - did a load of 6's (including the worlds hardest 6B if you don't lank it..) and thoroughly enjoyed myself.
Su:
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STG 8A in 10 days :D
Are you close to sending something or is it your birthday in 10 days?
Either way, :strongbench: :beer2: :popcorn:
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All will be revealed... (I'm not close to 8A though sadly!)
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Good week training wise.
LTG 8A 8b
M. 45 degree board
T. 1 arm hangs
W. Rest
T. indoor bouldering, core workout
F. 1 arm hangs
S. Beach party at Boulder Central. Little bit of light bouldering.
S. Light bouldering at wall.
Booked flights for trip to Switzerland in September, haven't been before and feeling quite excited about it.
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Booked flights for trip to Switzerland in September, haven't been before and feeling quite excited about it.
:dance1:
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STG - re-establish good shoulder rehab. habits. Try an E5.
MTG (September): Excalibur, Wendenstock; Rabada-Navarro, Naranjo de Bulnes; Sea-cliff E5.
LTG: Font 7a. Sport 7b+. Something long, hard and free (and ideally in condition in August).
M -
T -
W - Westway bouldering: 7x VB/0; 7 x V0/1; 7 x V1/2; 2 x V2 Green in the fridge.
T - Sore shoulder.
F - Shoulder strength/stability exercises
S - Shoulder strength/stability exercises
S - Westway routes (7-8 min continuous on-off). Hard aerocap, approaching aeropower session: 2 sets of 4 minutes getting hideously pumped, 5 sets of 7-9 minutes on getting fairly pumped (~6b). Felt battered.
I’d wanted to get on some Ceuse-esque trad. with Ceuse fitness and confidence. Life seems to be getting in the way of this and the next three weekends are all spoken-for. A decent training week though.
Hopefully get out to High Tor this week
You got a partner for that? I'm keen to get to High Tor.
I'm also keen for High Tor and a midweek hit might be my only forseeable option. PM me if you're heading that way.
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STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid
June July
MTG: undecided
LTG: 8c, by June 2018
Effort on OG Nai!
PE phase.
M. Iced back. Mobilisations. Chiro in P.M to look at tweaked back from Mecca on Sunday. Said it was torn back muscles rather than facet joint sprain. recommended 2 weeks to heal and not getting on Mecca next weekend..
T. Iced back. Mobilisations. PE sesh 3, foot-on at Boardroom. Back coped alright. Fitness improving, 3 out of 4 reps completed, rest time reduced.
W. Iced back. Core and mobility sesh.
T. PE sesh 4, foot-on at Mill. Felt really good, reps completed, rest time reduced. Didn't notice back muscles.
F. Massage to loosen up back/help healing.
S.
S. Tor. Mecca. Bottom half gopping wet but top half dry. Warmed up for an hour. Nervous about how back muscles would hold up. Worked groove moves into the kneebar and out of the groove to the finish. Forgot foot beta for last move to flake (twist in RF on groove). Back felt good, yes!
Well happy with how back muscles bounced back to be able to work Mecca 7 days after tweaking. Probably a good week to miss anyway considering wet weather. Now two weeks behind my ideal sched and that'll prob slip further, aiming for 14 sesh's in total on Mecca (2 down) before turning attention to other things, feeling like I'll be coming back in the autumn but we'll see.
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aiming for 14 sesh's in total on Mecca (2 down)
3, shirley?
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He's doing a Caff ;D
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14 sessions 8 redpoint's a day. That's 112 goes on it. Don't worry godskins could only dream of doing the move on il pirata once in a 100 goes.
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Stg - sport/training ticks
Mtg - trad after bird ban, end of the month
Ltg - something in margalef this autumn, currently undecided...
M - nothing
T - traverse wall. Warm up then did dougs 8a then did it four more times each time tweaking moves to make it slightly harder, finishing up at probably tough 8a+?
W - nothing
T - nothing
F - quick traverse wall session in super heat:
2x7b
1x8a
1x8a+
failed to do a new harder variation (low 8b??)
1x8a.
S - Another hot day at the traverse wall:
2x7b
1x8a+
2x8b
2x8a+
1x8a
S - At in-laws. Had a play doing one armers on father in laws newly purchased chin up bar. It flexed alarmingly with my meagre weight, lord knows what it does when he's hanging on it!
Anyway managed 2.5 one armers in a row with poor form on both arms. Surprised by this.
Good mileage this week, roll on the end of the bird ban...
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aiming for 14 sesh's in total on Mecca (2 down)
3, shirley?
That first sesh with you in shite connies doesn't count ;) That was just a recce to help me form a clear idea of what PE to train.
Won't be at redpoint stage for a while yet Dense so you'll have to revise downwards. And unless they're falling off at the 2nd bolt every time no-one in my end of the gene pool gets 8 quality redpoints per sesh, whatever Stu thinks ;D
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I don't get 8 goes on a boulder problem in a session!
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Mon. Turbo 1 hour.
Tue. Nothing dragged to the pub by the missus, drank rather a lot.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Board good session best since my injury. Repeated 10 problems from last November. They all went first or 2nd go, took 3 sessions to do then year.
Fri. Biked to,work 20.12 miles 1 hr 8 mins. Bike home 20.14 miles 1 hr14 mins.
Sat. Board another reasonable session repeated a few more things from last Nov. Did one in better style than before.
Sun. Bike 75.39 miles 4 hrs 15 mins.
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Thu. Board good session best since my injury. Repeated 10 problems from last November. They all went first or 2nd go,
:2thumbsup:
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I don't get 8 goes on a boulder problem in a session!
Not even one move problems
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Thu. Board good session best since my injury. Repeated 10 problems from last November. They all went first or 2nd go,
:2thumbsup:
I suspect it was a random good day, where as other folk have the odd random bad day.
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M: Travelling back from family holiday
T: Core
W: Core
T: Orme - First time climbing in 2 weeks and first time on a rope in a long time. Tried "Body Torque" (7b+). Worked it out but crux is just to sharp and not very enjoyable. Only had one go then went in the cave. Tried "Parisellas Original" (7A) almost got a heel hook stuck in a jug.
F: Dead Hangs on 20mm incut (bottom slot on Rock Rings)
4 x 10 secs (Unweighted)
1 x 10 secs (+5kg weight)
1 x 10 secs (+10kg weight)
S: Racing other Dad's at a party on a bouncy castle obsticle thing. Won 4 times, tiring!
S: Raven Tor - absolutely nails, shut down on everything. Seem to of found a weakness of flat and sloping crimps/pinches. If a hold isn't incut I stuggle to do much off it. Did the Chimes Start boulder problem. Then tried Too Hard for ML, Wild in Me start and Saline Drip. All felt the living end.
Felt physically beat up afterwards...
I'm stuggling to focus on anything at the moment and not sure what to concentrate on. It's Diamond season in a months time so it's probably best I actually do some routes and gain some fitness, something which I never seem to have!
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Did you rate the Tor Luke?
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Did you rate the Tor Luke?
:D
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Did you rate the Tor Luke?
Haha, so far I think it's rubbish but I'll reserve judgement until I go do routes there, which will probably never happen. I'd sooner stay in Wales...
I lost all hope when a local said to me "It's just a bit crap really."
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Did you rate the Tor Luke?
I'd sooner stay in Wales...
Best way
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I lost all hope when a local said to me "It's just a bit crap really."
I want their name.
Sounds like you made an odd choice of problems to me, avoiding all the classics. Wild In Me start is reachy and although it's a good route the start as currently described makes for a relatively poor problem. Saline Drip is good but again quite reachy and atypical of the crag. THFML - well you just gotta man up a bit there.
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What other sub 7b problems would you recommend Dave?
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Did you rate the Tor Luke?
Haha, so far I think it's rubbish but I'll reserve judgement until I go do routes there, which will probably never happen. I'd sooner stay in Wales...
I lost all hope when a local said to me "It's just a bit crap really."
I've always pointed newcomers to boot boys start as, although not typical of the crag, it's fun big moves on very reasonable holds - a good safety tick.
give it another go sometime, sure they'll be at least 12 more lifts down with PeteH
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I lost all hope when a local said to me "Sour grapes".
FTFY.
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What other sub 7b problems would you recommend Dave?
Admittedly you're talking the kind of entry level for decent Tor bouldering there, but you've got:
Keen Roof finish
Ben's Roof harder finish
THFML footless
Bashers
Bashers RH
Little Extra start
Boot Boys start
Rattle&Hump (easiest way/s)
Super High Intensity Bodybuilding start
Weedkiller trav and OOMY are 7b-ish and are worth trying. Similarly powerband as far as the jug is probably 7b and good moves. Plus there's tons of good pinches wall stuff.
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It's probably more fun if your not a complete punter like myself.
I wanted to try Bashers as that actually looks decent but it was soaked.
Can see the Tor's appeal if you're local but I find Welsh lime more inspiring.
I want their name.
I didn't get their name...
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I didn't get their name...
Any distinguishing features - shades and a white stick, golden retriever in a high-vis jacket, anything like that?
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I didn't get their name...
Any distinguishing features - shades and a white stick, golden retriever in a high-vis jacket, anything like that?
:lol: He was some beast from London. The thought of a 3 hour drive from London to climb there would make me want to quit climbing...
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I didn't get their name...
Any distinguishing features - shades and a white stick, golden retriever in a high-vis jacket, anything like that?
They were the odd one out from the crowds wearing blinkers and rose tinted glasses ;)
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STG - summer: 7C/8a (Jerry's Roof?)
MTG - next year: 8A/8b
LTG: something long, hard, mostly free
Been away a week in Scotland scrambling.
Sat: Old Man of Stoer, great fun, got soaked on the Tyrolean though
Sun: Cuillin Ridge attempt, sub-ideal conditions and using trail shoes rather than approach shoes meant I was pretty slow on the easier parts. Don't trust Salomon XA Pros on rock is the lesson learnt. Bailed from after the In Pinn. Fantastic day out nonetheless
M: Three Wise Monkeys at Fort William, good little wall, some campusing because my legs wouldn't work
T: Ledge Route on Ben Nevis. First time up to the North Face, easy route, route-finding was the most difficult. Three Wise monkeys.
W: -
Th: Tried to go bouldering in Glen Nevis, mistake. Got midged to pieces. Threewise monkeys in the afternoon.
F: Aonach Eagach, traversed it twice to get back to the car. Amazing scrambling. Then to Threewise monkeys.
Sat: Tower Ridge. Wow! Great fun, just continuous scrambling for 2 hours. Tower Gap was fun, there's footholds but I just ended up lowering myself like a pullup... too much of a boulderer.
S: Three wise monkeys before flying home.
Overall, great week with some sweet scrambling, still managed 5 wall sessions though!
Last week at work before I leave to go climbing for a year!
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Last week at work before I leave to go climbing for a year!
Sounds like you had a pretty good week, and even more to come.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XG63OtsKC7k
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Did you rate the Tor Luke?
Haha, so far I think it's rubbish but I'll reserve judgement until I go do routes there, which will probably never happen. I'd sooner stay in Wales...
I lost all hope when a local said to me "It's just a bit crap really."
Don't get on the routes FFS! It'd be the climbing equivalent of an occasional dope-smoker thinking they'll try a Ketamine/LSD mix washed down with some special brew.
You're too innocent for the tor Luke. So much good trad to do instead.
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Fucking cowboyhats got a lot to answer for!
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It's more that Wales, despite being better than England at football, is much worse for 8bs and 8b+s outside of Diamond SeasonTM.
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Walking Mussel and Youthanasia are both ace. Youthanasia is miles better than Mecca.
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It's more that Wales, despite being better than England at football
Damning with faint praise
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Youthanasia is miles better than Mecca.
There's a controversial joke in there somewhere.
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Walking Mussel - a 6c route into a knackey on/off boulder prob into a shake and the finger crack to finish. It's not a classic is it. And might not be 8b+?
Youthanasia yeah agree, however I can't be struggling with tides, conditions and mid-week belay partners on a route at (or above!) my limit.
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Walking Mussel - a 6c route into a knackey on/off boulder prob into a shake and the finger crack to finish. It's not a classic is it. And might not be 8b+?
The starting boulder problem is 7A (if you're not a midget) so no not 6c to crux. Soft yes but probably no easier than Mecca with a kneepad. Not a classic but 2 stars on LPT ain't a bad route.
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Ah forgot about that boulder problem start but it is literally right off the ground (which I did 2nd go so can't be that hard) to a total rest before the knackey on/off middle boulder prob. Mecca's much more continuous, no comparison really. Still the tor though so it's automatically 1-star at most, Luke says :)
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M: Ab ripper
T: Aero Cap. 3 sets of 4 on the 6c circuit. Failed on very last rep.
W:
T: Travel down south
F: Gay Humanist Jewish wedding part I
S: GHJW part II
S: Stand up paddleboarding
Staying down south this week in anticipation of another wedding. I'm considering this period to be forced down time before getting back into some serious training.
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Walking Mussel and Youthanasia are both ace. Youthanasia is miles better than Mecca.
Like Jerry said about Neil Carson: "Neil? Neil who? never heard of him"
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Still the tor though so it's automatically 1-star at most, Luke says :)
1 star? I wouldn't be that generous! From a arm chair (belay, too weak to ever do it) perspective it looks about as good as something on Golf Ball Wall ;)