UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => beta - chuffing => Topic started by: Will Hunt on May 25, 2016, 12:36:20 pm
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I had a tickle of this last night. Having gained the beta from Young Buck and Ms Telfer, I thought the crux would be the bit when you swing round the arête onto the right and have to pull through/match and go to the finishing jug:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xdfAL2jCyvo
http://vimeo.com/81711106
When I was on it I missed the high right hand crimp that they get to pull up to the good bit on the fin and thought you had to gain the fin from a low crozzle that Charlotte uses briefly as an intermediate. I'll have to go back and try and find that high right hand crimp, but this did get me wondering about where the crux on the route is. Is there a distinct crux that comes as you go around the arête, or is it a sustained set of moves of comparable difficulty?
No tales of doom please. The route has a big enough reputation to get past as it is!
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I thought the crux was the initial monkeying up the arête definitley psychologically anyway. By the time you swing round and get that crimp everything is a bit more positive / straight forward. Great moves but tough and bold at e4 that's for sure.
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I can't remember specific beta but I remember thinking there was a definite crux that lead into climbing that still felt pretty "goey" almost to the top.
I did it the same day as Psycho and Adrenalin Rush (all onsight) and definitely felt HN was the hardest of the three.
Sorry, was that a tale of doom?
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That's a good day at Caley! :strongbench:
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When I did it I was with Jerry M and James Moran and I was hoping one of them would do it and show me how but they both wimped out. I got to the notch jug shit myself and bailed off did it next go. James fell off seconding.
It became a bit of trade route following my ascent " If Webbo can do it, it must be piss "
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I can't remember specific beta but I remember thinking there was a definite crux that lead into climbing that still felt pretty "goey" almost to the top.
I did it the same day as Psycho and Adrenalin Rush (all onsight) and definitely felt HN was the hardest of the three.
Sorry, was that a tale of doom?
That's alright, Andy. I've heard that particular tale of doom already! This is all quite encouraging. Getting to the fin isn't really very bold, so if the bit after the swing round is a bit easier then it should be quite manageable. Need to go back and get my hand on that high right hand crimp :bounce:
I mean, if Webbo can do it, it must be piss :shrug:
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Although when Chris Hamper fell off by reaching past the finishing jug, he just about scraped the floor. Take someone heavy to hold your ropes. :2thumbsup:
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No tales of doom please. The route has a big enough reputation to get past as it is!
Although when Chris Hamper fell off by reaching past the finishing jug, he just about scraped the floor. Take someone heavy to hold your ropes. :2thumbsup:
:spank:
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:ras:
I'll save the others or maybe not. :-\
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Although when Chris Hamper fell off by reaching past the finishing jug, he just about scraped the floor. Take someone heavy to hold your ropes. :2thumbsup:
Everyone's heavy compared to Will. If he fell it would be like a leaf leaving a tree.
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Although when Chris Hamper fell off by reaching past the finishing jug, he just about scraped the floor. Take someone heavy to hold your ropes. :2thumbsup:
Everyone's heavy compared to Will. If he fell it would be like a leaf leaving a tree.
Just as well what with those long legs and rope stretch.
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I can add that the fall is fine
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pd1_I_giv28
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I can add that the fall is fine
I can add I really bruised my hip on the fall landing on the slab...
Just for doom balance!!
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Don't worry will it's only English 6A what's that 5+. You've climbed 7c it's a walk in the park.
Although it might be a park in Halton Moor/ Gipton after dark.
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I can add that the fall is fine
I can add I really bruised my hip on the fall landing on the slab...
Just for doom balance!!
I like where this thread is going. ;D
Anyone else have any scary stories about High Noon?
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HaHa. This is becoming more interesting.
So my mate Greg,on sight, swung round the arete, started crimping and pinching upwards, fell off going for the jug.
Won't tell you how many pieces his kneecap ended up in but we had to piggy-back him to the car and A&E.
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I remembered hearing that tale, but wasn't going to be the one to repeat it.
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A good friend of mine had a story about another mate falling off and breaking his legs!
Good luck! :'(