UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: sihills on May 21, 2016, 10:49:22 am
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Right, quite possibly the most pathetic injury I've ever had but still, it hurts and it is ruining climbing.
I keep developing a split on my middle finger, it appears in the first crease down from the top, and seems to open up, at its worst it bleeds, at best it is just a sore area. Any advice, anyone else suffer from this terrible injury?
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Tape. As its in the crease you don't need a thick layer (one or two) and doesn't need to get in the way of the pads..
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Tape and superglue if you're psyched
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Try changing chalk? I get splits in my joints if using super chalk with a drying agent in.
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If you're using metolius superchalk then don't. Also if it's splitting it's probably because the skin there is too dry and thick. So you need to regularly sand away the dry skin, and moisturise like a bastard.
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Also along with the other suggestions. Could be the type of holds your using. Try problems with smaller holds. I.e only 3/4 pad then it won't rub.
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I have had millions of these things, I tend to get them because of the tension across the skin at the joints so smaller holds would be bad.
Moisturiser and tape but the way I tape my finger was shown to me by a wise old yorkshireman and allows you to climb whilst relieving the tension across the skin which causes the splits.
So you take one piece of tape and stick it along the length of your finger, starting at the second joint flexure and going over your finger tip and over on to the back of your finger. Take a second piece of tape and run it diagonally up your finger (again from second joint) almost to the top and then loop it back down overlapping it by 50% or so. Secure it with super glue if you can be bothered
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Try changing chalk? I get splits in my joints if using super chalk with a drying agent in.
Same for liquid chalk. Really dries your skin. Avoid completely or at least only apply to finger tips and avoid putting any in skin fold btw first and second pad.
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I get this a lot. Marigolds for dish washing and lanolin based nipple cream (for breast feeding mums with cracked/bleeding nipples) have made a huge difference to my skin condition and healing time. The lanolin cream is superb, beats even 8 hour cream into the dust...
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If you're using metolius superchalk then don't. Also if it's splitting it's probably because the skin there is too dry and thick. So you need to regularly sand away the dry skin, and moisturise like a bastard.
If you're using metolius superchalk then don't. Also if it's splitting it's probably because the skin there is too dry and thick. So you need to regularly sand away the dry skin, and moisturise like a bastard.
definitely second these, I got this a lot when I was campusing a lot on large (1 pad) holds. I taped across it, sanded and moisturised it and started climbing on smaller (1/2 to 3/4 pad) holds and now theyre fine. Just
Plus I'm now a lot stronger on smaller holds double win
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I've had these plenty in the past. If moisturiser and tape doesn't work file it in to a massive fucking hole then moisturise like a bastard while the new skin grows in. This has always worked out for me as the new skin is stretchier and more supple so resists splitting well. I've only done this with persistent splits though, its probably a bit of a last resort.
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Yeah all of these and make sure you're hydrated. That made a massive difference for me.