UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: jwi on May 21, 2016, 07:57:59 am
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Here's a blast from the past. Jean-Pierre Bouvier recently opened Petite Sorcellerie a there-and-back-again traverse at 8C in Apremont Envers. I assume it's 8c traverse (whatever that means). He's 59 years old, right?
Source1 (https://www.facebook.com/fanatic.climbing/posts/1604293946547795)
Source2 (https://bleau.info/envers/300377.html)
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8C or 8c, both are impressive!
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Means it's as hard as a 8B straight up doesn't it?
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Means it's as hard as a 8B straight up doesn't it?
Imho it is pretty pointless to compare.
A comparison with roped routes should be easier in many cases, especially for the aller-retour stuff.
A few first hand examples :
Long 7B-shake- long 7B gives you 7c/+ trav. (eclipse pensées cachées)
6C/+-shake-6C = 7b trav (Jules Verne)
Continuous stuff with no rests consistently feels one grade stiffer compared to a bolted route of similar pumpyness (7b+/c trav=soft 8a route, danse de printemps)
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http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/bouldering-there-and-back (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/bouldering-there-and-back)
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Cheers doylo, what a great article.
"most of us are chasing our goals and never getting 'there' but JP is different. He got 'there' and realized he'd just passed what he was looking for. So he turned around and went back for it."
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Saw JP in the car park at Isatis once. His hair really is that bad. What a legend.