UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: shark on April 17, 2016, 07:59:10 pm
-
11.1-2
M.
T. Malham in a 5 with Ryan P Mina Andy Cave and Maddy. Not feeling confident or up for it and then further dejected to find the route and a lot of the crag wet. Did Cons x 1 then x2 Then did a bit of solo aiding shenanigans. TR F&EE x 2. Wandered upstairs which was surprisingly dry Ben Moon and Ben Pritch there - Ben just having done Main Overhang some 30 years after doing the second ascent. Had a chat and went back down. Toss up between a play on Predator or Raindogs. Decided on Raindogs as less hassle and less likely to open up cut on fingertip from sunday. Start of Raindogs wet including foothold below first bolt so started bridged using undercut pocket just above. Did it with a rest to the belay. Go1 Lowered down to 2nd bolt and pulled rope and the led to falling off last move. Holds fairly greasy Go 2 led it from undercut pocket to top :-) Go 3 Same point to falling off last move. Go 4 fell going for final pinch. Pretty good performance on Raindogs. PE or AeroPower or AnCap or whatever it is must be improving -
W.
T.AM Was going to go to RHS to try Al-Queda with Toby W but weather was drizzly so met him at eatswood. Ended up trying ER twice 1st go had a footslip whilst holding two crimps on rail at end 2nd go fingers slipped off crimp and finger jam at end Go3 Failed to get through crux . Went home hustled Tommy out for After School club. Decided on Baslow cos iffy weather but turned out OK. Did some warm ups. Then manned up and did the superb Hot Ziggurty (6C highball) which felt straightforward the way I did it. Joined by Cheque. We all did Balls Out which was a superb 6B arete. Failed on The Ripper 7A+ which was aptly named up as it opened up my tip again which I cut at Ramshaw at weekend.
F.
S. PM Changeable weather. On a whim popped out to Remergence instead of training. Nobody out there bouldering! Ben Moon wandered up with family (can't get away from him) Bit too warm in the sun. Had a few goes wary of opening my tip again. Kept putting hat on sloper in effort to keep the sun off. Dozed in sun then rewarded by it clouding over for a bit. Had a few good goes but didnt quite get the left hand slot. Threatening squall on horizon turned up and walked out in a hailstorm
S. Stanage Pole raising. Limply held stability rope 4. Beautiful day. Then went to Burbage West with the boys to try Breakfast 7A on the assumption it would be in the shade. It wasn't Saw a bright green lizard enjoying the sun on walk in. Repeated goes at Breakfast but none of us got up it.
Another frustrating week of no Oak action. Going there on tuesday but with my luck will probably be wet again or too hot or most likely both.
-
STG (April) under 80kg. Saw 81 on the scale a couple of times.
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
In which endurance training starts to pay off.
M: Knee & shoulder rehab & general mobility.
T: Bike one hour
W: Shoulder physio
Wall, Boulderwelt. Had planned to do routes but was too late from work (having spent the morning at the physio) so did a short sharp endurance session of three sets of four circuits, with minimal rest between circuits and ten minutes between sets. Fun? No. The aim isn't fun now, it is fun in the 'jura in May and in Spain in the autumn.
T: Colleague's leaving party. Multiple sets of half-litre curls.
F: am shoulder physio.
pm half an hour mobility, foam rolling etc.
S: High altitude sport cragging, Leonhardstein. Fantastic day. Huge south facing crag in the Bavarian Alps with immaculate rock quality, mostly user-friendly bolting, idyllic landscape - and a longish, steepish approach which, combined with an iffy weather forecast, meant nobody else was up there today. The weather turned out to be perfect, and we had the entire place to ourselves with no sound except the birds and the river. A good setting for my first 7a-in-a-day, :dance1:
To my surprise it would seem that training actually works. The 7a in question had a very tricky technical crux at mid height, followed by ten metres of reasonably straightforward but quite steep climbing without any really good shakeouts (fell on the very last move on my last but one attempt). The ability to keep pressing on on moderately hard moves whilst getting quite pumped turned out to be rather useful, as did the ability to put in four good redpoint attempts in a day.
S: Thalkirchen. Yesterday's demonstration that my endurance training is working was good motivation to spend a rainy Sunday afternoon at the wall putting in a dozen rounds of aerocap on easyish routes.
-
STG - Raindogs, Call of Nature and other Peak WIPS
M - walked in to the Embankment, took one look, walked straight back out and went to the Tor. Short of time so just 2 burns on Call of Nature. Worked a better sequence from flake to crux and managed to link through to the sika. Sika itself was wet so didn't want to pull too hard on it and risk losing my tips. Top wall needs work but another short but productive session.
Eve - 10 mins Core
T - AM AeroPow Foot on Campusing, great first set, smashed PB - 5:19 1st rep. Faded quickly set 2.
Eve - LI AeroCap
W rest
Th - Call of Nature. Pretty minging - damp, cold, still, humid.
Sika still wet but managed to dry it temporarily and link from the throw through the crux to top.
First redpoint attempt ended when i managed to Z-clip at the 3rd :wall: Lowered off, took a moment and tried again but didn't make the throw. Linked post crux (4th bolt) to top, feeling fairly solid on the top wall now. Three good sessions in a row, will be on redpoint next time but have to be prepared for a stinker.
F - nipper off school with tonsillitis so AeroPow boulder workout in garage rather than at Foundry, not as effective but better than nowt.
S - weighted pullups & 3x10 mins LI AeroCap, core
S - rest
Back on Call tomorrow if the weather's playing ball, forecast to be overcast but with a decent breeze on the crag so hopefully connies will be ok
-
Nice lizard picture Shark.
Good effort muencher!!
M - rest
T - the works, didn't climb brilliantly but did some nice problems. Maybe max 6C
W - soloed tegness pinnacle on a walk
T - froggatt after work, did some of the problems on the hairpin boulder then did Isla Grace 4th go. Then bushwhacked to glass slipper but realised 2 shoes from 2 different pairs had fallen out of my pad during the bush walk! So relieved to find them both
F - rest
S - rest
S - worst hangover ever
-
stg: the next month
Lose a bit of weight
Do lots of power endurance training
Boulder in Scotland
mtg: summer
Be fit for Ceuse and climb Privilege
ltg: this year
8a
Mon
Arch - hard boulders and aerocap
A few things up to v6 and some attempts on harder. 5 on 5 off on circuit board
Tue
AnCap + AeroPow
Ancap on the hardest circuit on circuit board
4 x4 on boulders and some foot on campus
Saturday
Portland
Did Englands dreaming at blacknor which was ace, then went to the cuttings and got pretty stumped by hall of mirrors again!
Sunday
Cheddar
Quick warm up at the wave and then went to Pride Evans and did Sing a mean toon kid. Pretty happy with this as i didnt really fancy my chances when i set off, but it felt pretty steady once on the hard climbing. Keen to come back for directoonima
This coming week aim - step up the pe and try and shift some of the pounds i seem to have piled on.
-
Nice lizard picture Shark.
Amazing colours. His/her partner was brown
(http://i.imgur.com/eD8hUR4.jpg)
F - rest
S - rest
S - worst hangover ever
2 days rest for a drinking session ! Impressive preparation :bow:
-
Great effort Muenchener!
-
Goals:
Shadow Walker
8A and 8b by next June
69kg. (av.) need to pay more attention to this (mainly by buying less (moor) beer, tricky as I've realised they are based just down the road from tca...)
Body audit: thumb def on the mend this week, still feel it in the background but much happier about it. Seem to have somehow strained/cricked right shoulder/neck last weekend, been pretty uncomfortable this week but making an effort to sleep in sensible position and it's eased off a bit, hopefully a short term thing.
M: TCA lunch, circuits on new undercutty purple on 30 degree board. Sash and Ali were training on the woody (rip) so felt I ought to use a bit of structure - circuit took me 3 minutes if I hesitate on every move, so did 4 reps of that with 3 min rest between reps (failed on penultimate move on 4th rep) then chatting so forgot to reset timer, so had approx 8 minutes rest before last rep.
T: 5 mile run, 42 min.
W: TCA, set new wood circuit on 30 degree board. Came out a fair bit harder (8aish) than I intended (7b+ish), and wasn't that pleased with it but ran out of time. Decent workout wielding the driver and trying sequences though.
T: TCA with daughter after school, not much energy or psych, but managed to repeat fingery white first time on the 15 degree circuit board that took me a few tries last week.
F: nowt, knackered working evening
S: long work day
S: long work day
Back on SW tomorrow, fingers crossed it's dry and a week of not much training doesn't have too negative an impact.
-
to try Breakfast 7A on the assumption it would be in the shade. It wasn't.... Repeated goes at Breakfast but none of us got up it.
I have only managed to do Breakfast on the 1st or 2nd go every time I've done it, and then only when it's cold
this means I can't remember my beta
I class each ascent as either an Idiot Flash or a Semi-Senile Repeat
-
to try Breakfast 7A on the assumption it would be in the shade. It wasn't.... Repeated goes at Breakfast but none of us got up it.
I have only managed to do Breakfast on the 1st or 2nd go every time I've done it, and then only when it's cold
this means I can't remember my beta
I class each ascent as either an Idiot Flash or a Semi-Senile Repeat
Yes well done :clap2: - you are awesome or tall or have fat guppying hands or never climbed on it in the sun or something. You are clearly tooo good to be wasting your talent on such lowly graded fare.
-
Goals:
Shadow Walker
8A and 8b by next June
Such conservative goals Duma, you could easily do 8b and 8A this year?!
-
Another frustrating week of no Oak action. Going there on tuesday but with my luck will probably be wet again or too hot or most likely both.
It was bone dry today, and not supposed to rain tomorrow.
-
Goals:
Shadow Walker
8A and 8b by next June
Such conservative goals Duma, you could easily do 8b and 8A this year?!
Well I'll try, but I'm forty next summer so that's the (arbitrary, self imposed) deadline!
-
M-F - work
S - work a.m. grab a p.m. hour at the training traverse while the big parasite is at a party.
S - emergency diy
Another classic week. Surprisingly good performance on Saturday but not enough.
-
Nice one Muenchener :2thumbsup: sounds brilliant
-
84.2Kg
M - School lunch. 10 x 13 moves of pink, with 2 mins rest (shorter rest than last week).
T - Foundry lunch. LI Aero. P.M. Ran home (7.9Km)
W - Ran to work.
T - P.M. Burbage South boulders after some debate, ended up being pretty windy and v good conditions. Did some warming up then tried Little Pig. Really cool problem. Worked a sequence and Dave quickly sent. I managed to get the mono twice but couldn't claw it in. One to come back for.
F - Lunch run 8km. Over the top of the ski slope. Sort of not a bad lunch run but it feels pretty creepy up there. Semi bonk on the way back along Penistone rd.
S -
S - A.M. Ran 3Km to collect wife's car from next to Picture House Social. Dithered about whether to run or climb. In the end headed out at 6pm for planned 3 x Derwent edge run. Saw 3 people in 2 hours. Absolutely stunning up there, I flippin love Derwent edge. 15.7Km / 803m of ascent. Even checked out some of the bouldering which I'll definitely come back for in the summer.
Have run over 40Km this week, so will have an easy week next week and plan to climb Thurs pm again. Enjoying climbing without the pressure of expectation and being on a massive upwards trajectory running-wise. Middle age is here!
-
Another frustrating week of no Oak action. Going there on tuesday but with my luck will probably be wet again or too hot or most likely both.
It was bone dry today, and not supposed to rain tomorrow.
Aye, amazing how much drier Malham was this weekend compared to Thursday - when it was gopping (especially surprising given heavy rain on Friday). Someone did the Oak on Saturday so it's presumably in nick - get to it Shark! Just hope for some cloud - Saturday was primo but on Sunday the sun made the upper tier routes feel a bit painful.
-
STG - go try the route at least once before Summer.
Mon - board climbing. Very little volume, good intensity. Did a couple of new problems and set a cool project that should be doable even now. A couple of laps on the circuit, average, nothing brilliant.
Tue - rest.
Wed - FOA, max speed pull ups, front levers. Tried to figure out some training for the route as suggested by Tommy. Cool. Dumbbell complex Tabata, overhead carry Tabata. Yes!
Thu - climbing class. Feet on campusing 4' x2. Hill sprints.
Fri - dumbbell complex, overhead carry. Very tired.
Sat - rest.
Sun - 340 km of turns and mountain passes with my motorcycle. Exhausting but great.
A few strange weeks as of late. Putting in good trainin but also some proper partying, must address this. Temps steadily rising, very hard to keep going especially on the board. Let's see how things go. Hard to mix climbing and weight training at the moment because both hammer the forearms pretty heavily.
-
STG: Heal knee, wrist, fingers....
MTG: Get solid on 7B/+ boulder and 7b/+ sport
LTG: 8A & 8a
M:
T:
W: MRI Arthogram on wrist, checking to see if my TFCC is fucked...
T: Physio for knee
F:
S:
S:
Almost recovered from virus, physio exercises going well for knee. Physio said knee was in good shape and I hadn't lost any muscle really! Seeing wrist doc later today, fingers crossed I don't need surgery for this!
-
Effort Muenchener.. :)
M: Beastmaker for first time in ages. Trashed after three sets of ((7on3off x 6) x 3) - even using large holds..
Tu: Beastmaker again - only managed two sets... Clearly not training regularly on the BM makes you weaker on the BM... :)
We: Work AM - then dashed to Curbar on way back to Manchester. Part of my reason for BMing was to get some basic strength back to get Gorilla Warfare/Early doors done (at last..). Anyway - headed straight for the pit and faffed around on GW and Early doors for a bit... My problem with both these problems is getting to sharing the two final wall crimp/holds efficiently.. I always try and do it low (given up on Lagers toe method) and thug accross it - but the final moves really sap whatever power I have. Someone suggested whacking a heel on the slopey rail (the one Jihad comes from) and having previously thought "thats a stupidly high heel" - it worked and those moves felt (in comparison) piss. Next go, I did GW - but dabbed (teeny one) on a thick mat someone had left on the block GRR.. Big rest and 20 min later it went. About bloody time, been 6 years or more I've been trying that silly problem...
Then set about Early doors (that I've done the top of a few times) but the sloper just felt horrible, and despite others doing it my had just squirmed about on it and I didnt have confidence to commit. Still - came and did what I wanted to, so left happy.
Th: Manc Depot.
Fri: Long day out in the field with Work, lots of driving
Sa: Only fancied a short session, so met up with R-Man at Wilton 4. Discovered the 7C+ think I felt close to doing was desparate (well the next move I'd not got to was!) but worked and sent a new 7A SS arete with R-Man.. nice problem and only a slightly ironic name :)
https://youtu.be/MWM-cIkKF44
Su: Helsby - again only wanted a smallish day out. Warmed up in the woods - then headed to Barrel Buttress to play on RonB'sMoustache.. was no-where on that, seemed to have some sort of core failure.. but did a really cool eliminate on Harolds Wall next door.. thin holds and balancy near slab padding...
-
Another frustrating week of no Oak action. Going there on tuesday but with my luck will probably be wet again or too hot or most likely both.
It was bone dry today, and not supposed to rain tomorrow.
Just hope for some cloud - Saturday was primo but on Sunday the sun made the upper tier routes feel a bit painful.
The cloud came yesterday but with it came bitter numbness, I'm not complaining though. The cat walk felt much better in comparison
-
Nice one Muenchener! :strongbench:
W - soloed tegness pinnacle on a walk
Oh yeah, that's my kind of Power Club entry. ;D
STG (next month or so)- get big wall fitness required for making film. Done well in 2.5 weeks- probably at medium-wall fitness currently.
MTG (by late Autumn 2016)- Finish film while making progress towards LTG.
LTG (by end Nov 2019)- 8a.
M- Rest. Upped the ante to 15kg in schoolbag this week.
Tu- Walk out to Stanage from Redmires- took 22kg, soloed two super-easy routes when there.
W- Rest.
Th- Baslow with Shark and son. Did the Balls Test- first 6B (guide says 6B+, seems generous though) since before month-long break. Good to climb with other people again- I love pottering around on my own but there are so many factors in that which (for me at least) mean I don't climb well and lose confidence.
F- Rest. Didn't even carry weight around.
Sa- Solo seacliff logistics mission to secret location- let's call it "Crag G" ;) Very different to last visit- physically hard work but not overwhelmed by it this time, ticked my objective for the day within the time I'd hoped. Totally enjoyed the exposed abseiling/ aiding/ jugging too. The power of preparation! Sunny day with 3+ teams on main cliff, (at least one of whom were pretty surprised when a guy with tons of gear hanging off him abbed in above them :o ) got sunburnt.
Su- Putting Stanage Pole up. Basically a brisk walk and a bit of pushing. Beautiful weather all day but just too knackered to climb- sore from head to toe and falling asleep all afternoon.
Sacrificed climbing for film prep work this weekend- it will be worth it in the end. I reckon I'm now ready to film on any seacliff in the country and really psyched to start getting out with keen people! :bounce:
-
Oh, and nice one Muench! :2thumbsup:
-
to try Breakfast 7A on the assumption it would be in the shade. It wasn't.... Repeated goes at Breakfast but none of us got up it.
I have only managed to do Breakfast on the 1st or 2nd go every time I've done it, and then only when it's cold
this means I can't remember my beta
I class each ascent as either an Idiot Flash or a Semi-Senile Repeat
Yes well done :clap2: - you are awesome or tall or have fat guppying hands or never climbed on it in the sun or something. You are clearly tooo good to be wasting your talent on such lowly graded fare.
don't get me wrong, Shark - I've failed spectacularly on many occasions (especially when it's warm). It's just that when I have succeeded it's gone down quickly and has been cold enough to not be able to fall off
repeated goes have always ended in failure for me
-
to try Breakfast 7A on the assumption it would be in the shade. It wasn't.... Repeated goes at Breakfast but none of us got up it.
I have only managed to do Breakfast on the 1st or 2nd go every time I've done it, and then only when it's cold
this means I can't remember my beta
I class each ascent as either an Idiot Flash or a Semi-Senile Repeat
Yes well done :clap2: - you are awesome or tall or have fat guppying hands or never climbed on it in the sun or something. You are clearly tooo good to be wasting your talent on such lowly graded fare.
don't get me wrong, Shark - I've failed spectacularly on many occasions (especially when it's warm). It's just that when I have succeeded it's gone down quickly and has been cold enough to not be able to fall off
repeated goes have always ended in failure for me
My ego is very fragile curently
-
My ego is very fragile curently
I think you are awesome
:weakbench:
-
to try Breakfast 7A on the assumption it would be in the shade. It wasn't.... Repeated goes at Breakfast but none of us got up it.
I have only managed to do Breakfast on the 1st or 2nd go every time I've done it, and then only when it's cold
this means I can't remember my beta
I class each ascent as either an Idiot Flash or a Semi-Senile Repeat
Yes well done :clap2: - you are awesome or tall or have fat guppying hands or never climbed on it in the sun or something. You are clearly tooo good to be wasting your talent on such lowly graded fare.
don't get me wrong, Shark - I've failed spectacularly on many occasions (especially when it's warm). It's just that when I have succeeded it's gone down quickly and has been cold enough to not be able to fall off
repeated goes have always ended in failure for me
My ego is very fragile curently
come climbing with me Shark, i'll get your ego back up to full inflation or your money back!
-
My ego is very fragile curently
As your spelling is.
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Sorry Shark, I just couldn't resist. No offense, really I know it's a typo but it was too good an occasion!
Now get on The Oak!!! :whip: :whip: :whip: :whip: :whip: :whip: :whip:
-
STG: Font 7A+, before summer gets hot. (Still time!)
MTG: 1. French 7c+, before 1/1/17. 2. Tick unfinished business list (2/13).
LTG: 1. Cider Soak and Academic, before 1/1/18. 2. Font 7B+, before 1/1/18.
M - Indoor boulders. Intended board session. Sucked into trying hard problems from recent comp. more discipline for rest time, wasn't really training max power which is what I wanted. Stretches.
T - Stretches.
W - Indoor boulders. Hard for hour or so. Better resting. Then flashing easier problems with less rest for an hour or so.
T - Stretches.
F - Drizzle in Bristol. No one wanted to climb routes so bouldering in Avon gorge which was dry. Worked on the Bitter and Twisted RL traverse 7B and the start (crux) of Bulking Agent 7b+. Some progress. Actually got quite into it. Core workout. Stretches. Few cursory hangs on finger board nothing proper.
S - Grandmothers 90th. Big family party. Much cake and wine. Laryngitis coming on.
S - Slighting feeling effects of day before, 7.45 start, managed to convince the girlfriend to go for a stroll. Quick hit to Bourton Coombe for Cut-Throat 7a+ and then Avon Gorge for Paiste 2002 7a. Back home in time for brunch with residual family. Laryngitis fully set in meant thumbs up for take. Quote of the day from Ellie pre first route "I find it hard enough to understand what you want me to do at the best of times." Perfect job though! That's two routes from the unfinished business list. Nice to come back and find them easy. Encouraging!
-
STG (June): rehab. finger & knee. 6c at Ceuse (Zagreb); sea-cliff E3.
MTG (September): Excalibur, Wendenstock; Rabada-Navarro, Naranjo de Bulnes; sea-cliff E5.
LTG: Something long, hard and free and in condition in August. TBC since the demise of the N.W. face regular route on Half Dome.
M - Knee exercises: squats, step-ups.
T - Westway Bouldering; fridge (20-30 degree board) to ~V2. Hard work.
W - Knee exercises, Shoulder maintenance. Spectacular DOMS!!
T - Westway Bouldering; oven (vertical to 20 degrees) to ~V3.
F - Shoulder maintenance, knee exercises. DOMS.
S - Swanage Boulder Ruckle and Subluminal, with Falling Down. First day on rock for 3 and a bit months, first time placing gear for more than 6 months (and considerably longer for FD). We did Finale Groove and a bunch of shorter HVS/VSs at Subluminal. Briefly attempted Philatus (E2 or 3) but dampness and inability to see small runner placements due hopeless near-sight stopped play.
S - Stroll around Highgate Woods.
What a great week. Climbing on real rock, muscles aching more than finger or knee, it’s been some time. Felt pretty good on the sharp-end, albeit very much home territory. Swanage was fun, I’ve not climbed at Subliminal for years, it’s like Wimbledon-by-sea: first time I’ve seen a pashmina at a sea-cliff. I’m thinking of getting one for cheque’s film. Other wildlife sightings included a Peregrine with a smaller bird of prey (FD suggested a kestrel or hobby) in it's claws, which was released or escaped as it flew past Finale Groove.
A couple of unexpected issues: buddy-taping fingers makes manipulating cams awkward and I urgently need bifocals :geek: or I won’t be placing any gear smaller than a rock 5! Enjoyed my first date with FD, hopefully he wasn’t too traumatised by our southern ways.
Plan: more of the above.
-
I thought Breakfast was desperate for 7a, skin of my teeth kind of stuff.
STG: another 8A before summer???
MTG: Yorkshire classics
LTG: 8B
M: Bouldering indoors. Max hang benchmarking session.
T: Antagonistic wall painting/rest
W: Antagonistic wall painting/bouldering indoors. Easy session.
T: Antagonistic wall painting/rest
F: GF was running a university trip to go hiking/kayaking/toproping around Llanberis. Last minute dropout, so I was offered a cheap trip to north Wales (with the proviso I could bring pads but may have to get the bus to the Pass).
S: Cromlech boulders. Foolishly tried to flash Ultimate Retro Party 7b whilst warming up. Numbed up and ripped off going for the finishing jug. Resulting in missing chunks from the tops of my fingers, blood, 10 minutes of severe hot aches and much squirming on the pads. Sent shortly afterwards. Wandered over to Jerry's Roof and was surprised to find no one there (in fact, considering the perfect weather, I only briefly saw two climbers the entire day). Managed Bus Stop 7b+ and Bus Stop Right Hand 7b+, which I thought were both absolutely brilliant. Having two pads and no spotters and having fallen off BS, from the lip, and landing on my ass next to the pads, I didn't even bother trying Jerry's. Excellent day out on my tod.
S: Went tradding alongside the topropers on some pleasant, obscure buttress. No guidebook or grades, very enjoyable.
I've only ever been to the Pass in November or February and it's always been bitterly cold and miserable, so it was a very nice change to be lounging in the sun between attempts on a beautiful day :).
Having ticked my PE based winter projects and having self-diagnosed myself with piss weak finger strength. I'm thinking of making finger strength my main priority for the foreseeable future. :strongbench:
-
I urgently need bifocals :geek: or I won’t be placing any gear smaller than a rock 5!
But when you get them, you will also learning very quickly properly look down when placing your feet. But that's something you should be doing anyway, and generally the only time I find varifocals a problem in that respect is when I'm already scrabbling desperately and probably about to fall off.
-
I urgently need bifocals :geek: or I won’t be placing any gear smaller than a rock 5!
But when you get them, you will also learning very quickly properly look down when placing your feet. But that's something you should be doing anyway, and generally the only time I find varifocals a problem in that respect is when I'm already scrabbling desperately and probably about to fall off.
Thank you. That's partially why I'd been avoiding them, good to know the adjustment is . As well as my usual stick-fingers-in-ears and whistle approach to impairment and having to deal with gouging UK opticians
-
Well done Munch (and anyone else who I failed to notice when I skimmed the thread!)
M - Rest
T/W - Nothing. Planned to climb on Tuesday, but couldn't face the journey to the wall, too tired to start BMing after a year break.
Th - Indoors, nice session, mixture of easy stuff and getting stuck into some of the harder 6Bish problems.
F - Rest
S - Nothing
Su - Franchard Cuisiniere - Wasn't sure if it was a good choice with overhight rain, but it turned out fine, dry and still cool. Had a short session on an off-circuit problem and got my 4th 6A of the year https://bleau.info/cuisiniere/17350.html, not a classic, but good fun (and soft). Did some reds and a nice white slab, happy as I'd previously failed on a couple of them.
Managed to entice a group of French to go and try La Superbe https://bleau.info/cuisiniere/21244.html. Even with their encouragement I still couldn't force myself to jump. I needed a good old-fashioned British barracking. In the mean time we started trying the arete of Comete https://bleau.info/cuisiniere/9947.html which if one of the reason I was in Cuisiniere, too hard for me, but managed to leave the ground (just!), a couple of the French got it which made us all happy. Another lovely day in the forest. Nice to have some company sometimes.
-
M:Rest
T:Rest
W: UoS vs Hallam Comp - Climbed well came 7th - followed by some circuits
T: Routes at foundry
F:Rest
S:Regretted not going out - rest
S: Stanage - highlights where Help the Young (one of the best problems at the grade on grit?) and Cave Eliminate
Must rest less in future!
-
S: Stanage - highlights where Help the Young (one of the best problems at the grade on grit?)
It's brilliant isn't it?
-
S: Stanage - highlights where Help the Young (one of the best problems at the grade on grit?)
It's brilliant isn't it?
Yes :)
-
LTG: 7something
M - back to work after Font, nowt
T - nowt
W - Climbing Lab after work - first time there climbing properly and had a good blast. The topout prow thing is fun / took me back to the old skool days of Mile End (though not as high!) and the stuff up to Font 6bish I did was nicely set. Have taken a 10 pass card to give it a road test - as it's far and away the best wall if you've got kids in Leeds I can imagine I'll be doing a bit of climbing a deux with Una.
T - Gym on lunch: sub 1:50 500 row then 100 x swissball rollouts then shoulder complex routine of 4 x 4 x 30 secs on / 30 secs off.
F - nowt
S - nowt
S - nowt - nice day but having a family day in Harrogate. Driving past Cliff bathed in sunshine was a bit gutting.
-
Good effort Muenchener and habrich :clap2:
M: nothing. Wrist aching from Sunday.
T: fb max hangs. Good session
W-F: nothing
S: went bouldering for a couple of hours. Windy day with really good conditions. Felt strong.
S: ring dips and pushups, front levers, L-sits
This should have been the last training week in preparation for my small trip to the peak, instead between work, not sleeping well at night and more work I didn't manage to train how I wanted to. Next week I was planning to rest, now I suppose I'll do some training.
-
my first 7a-in-a-day, :dance1:
Nice! :great:
-
Mon: Lunchtime deadlifts, afternoon bouldering and deadhangs.
Tues: Trail run
Wed: Lunchtime deadlifts and afternoon bouldering. Really good bouldering session - did 14 problems in the 7A - 7B+ range in 75 mins (not all new problems). Totally broken by the end of it.
Thurs: 30 mins on the treadmill
Fri: Massive day - pre-work surf, lunchtime deadhangs and afternoon kettlebell workout.
Sat: And on the saturday, he rested.
Sun: Bouldering (came close to my 7C+ project) and one arm max hangs.
Really, really good week. Wednesday was about as good a day bouldering indoors as I can remember.
-
LTG 8b
M.
T. Foot on campus board session.
W.
T. 45 degree board.
F.
S.
S. LPT. Second try on Mussel Beach. Crux moves felt much easier on this visit. Shocking endurance meant I could only manage to link up to start of the crux. Looking forward to getting back on in a few weeks after some PE training. Went to look at Fish Pie in Pidgeons Cave. Got the beta all wrong, no chance! Need to go back with more pads and a better sequence.
-
Mon. Turbo 40 mins.
Tue. Out with daughter and grandson looking at houses then babysitting while daughter went for an interview. Too knackered to do anything when I got home.
Wed. Physio.
Thu. Weights and deadhanging extended hangs to 6 secs with 18.75 lbs added and increased weight on repeaters to 20lbs. Later turbo 45 mins.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Physio. Planned to go for a ride but it kept pissing down. Same weights and deadhanging as Thursday. Turbo 50 mins.
Sun. Bike 40.10 miles 2 hrs 22 mins felt ok. Also did this 7 mins faster than pre injury. Family walk 45 mins.
-
The main event was a completing my first ascent project, the last of six lines on the same wall that I have been working on at Rogues Gallery here over the last couple of years. The possibility that I would never do it has been hanging over me since early in the year, so getting the thing done is a big stress relief and minor confidence boost. It's probably the hardest new route I have put up though I have really no clue on the grade. I have given it .12d (=7c) for now. The key breakthrough - which will mean little to anyone except me and my friend Chris - was discovering that I could abandon a new-school heel-hook-side-pull-match in favour of an old-fashioned stem-and-twist manoeuvre, reducing time spent on the crux sloper. Also pre-brushing the sloper very thoroughly.
Well done! Gripped have reported it. (http://gripped.com/news/new-5-12-cheakamus-halfway-house-completes-wall/)
-
Evening all, think I'm going to join in if that's ok. I started a training plan last week and accounting for myself on here should help keep me honest. Plus, utterly inspired by the Isaac Buckley video and think I need to channel some of that enthusiasm.
Goals
STG - by June - get the easier things on my wish list ticked, mostly that means 7As such as Early Doors, Sidetrack, Marks, but also a few 6s such as Conan, Nicotine, NTBTA and so on.
MTG - by September - get at least one of the 7Bs on my list ticked, main targets Piss, Kidney, G, Marks.
LTG - regularly crush 7B then who knows...
M- push ups / pull ups / leg raises 96/27/30.
Fingerboard routine:
+24kgs small edge: 6/6/7/6s
35 deg sloper: 3s/10s, +4kgs 4s
45 minute stretches - 4 inches off of touching toes. Major weakness.
T- gentle bouldering lunchtime works. Push/pull/leg 100/27/36. 40 minute stretch.
W- 2 hour works session. Quite good session but felt weak. 115 push. 30 min stretch.
T- gentle bouldering lunchtime works. Push/pull/leg 113/29/36. 30 min stretch.
F- Curbar boulders in the morning. Climbed slacktrack that was a good laugh. Tried deadpoint low more than a few times, should have warmed up properly by doing the easy way first. Also tried bad lip that wont climb itself in a hurry - need to try hard. Aim to get both of them and sidetrack strict before getting distracted with other stuff.
Push/pull/leg 120/29/36. 40 min stretch.
S-
S-
Weight: 67 so a fair bit above my fighting weight of 63.
-
M: rest
T: campus at the wall. As mentioned in another thread, managed my first ever 1-6, leading with my right only. Close on left, but don't hold it.
W: rest
T: campus at the wall. Best 147s since last October. Cheatily manage (i twisted) 1-5-8 leading with my right and manage 1-6-8.5 leading with my right. Still no left success yet, but feel close.
F: pizza
S: swimming with the wee guy in the morning: never done this on my own before, it's a bit epic.
wall session in the afternoon. Mrs Rodma and I take the wee guy to the wall and take turns to climb. Fits ok no meltdowns from anyone.
S: kyloe in. Apologies to anyone else that was there for the wee guy having random screaming fits. Repeated a few classics and one arse drag. A tiring day out.
A good week this one.
Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
-
I reckon I'm now ready to film on any seacliff in the country and really psyched to start getting out with keen people! :bounce:
i'm keen cheque.
-
A good week this one.
Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
You've been due one of those for a while. Good stuff.
-
I urgently need bifocals :geek: or I won’t be placing any gear smaller than a rock 5!
But when you get them, you will also learning very quickly properly look down when placing your feet. But that's something you should be doing anyway, and generally the only time I find varifocals a problem in that respect is when I'm already scrabbling desperately and probably about to fall off.
Haha, this is so true, problems of the aging climber. Being on steeper stuff makes things easier, I think my slab climbing days are over.
-
Sometimes you are up too close and can't look down - in my case usually on redpoint so I know where the foothold is already. I did think of reverting to a normal pair for climbing but my brain is scrambled enough already
-
M: Rest
T: Fingerboard - Max hangs on 20mm edge, had to take off weight for the progressive set:
Rep 1: 10 sec (-5kg), Rep 2: 10 sec (-2.5kg), Rep 3: 10 Sec (-1.5kg)
Main Set: 3 x 10 sec (Unweighted)
14mm edge: 3 x 10 secs (-8kg)
W: Rest
T: Rest
F: Plas Power Wall with my son again. He did even better than last time! Got to the top of the slab a lot and was using his feet better.
3 x 5 min on 5 min off Aerocap.
Repeated 6C+ and 7A on 45' board and then did my project in a handful of goes. Took me about 4 sessions. First problem I've done using screw-ons for feet.
Here's a vid of us both:
https://vimeo.com/163021500
S: Plas Power - Back at the wall again as missus wanted to see our friends who work there.
Little one did well again on the wall and seems to be getting better each time and is really enjoying it!
3 x 5 min on 5 min off Aerocap
Worked moves on new project on the 45' using screw-on's. Came close but didn't want to trash myself for tomorrow...
S: Bouldering in the Ogwen Valley.
Warmed up on a few things up to 6A+ then did:
Ogwen Jazz - 6C
Skunk X - 7A
Ding Dong's Wall - 6B
Monkey Do - 7A!
Couldn't do the dyno at Caseg Ffraith "Oh Yeah" (6C) but can do all the moves on Boneyard (7B) into it. Fell off the last move of the reverse "Yardbone" (7A+) 3 times.
Here's a vid of me and my mate Sam:
https://vimeo.com/163282335
-
Can't remember when I last posted;
Anyway;
M - weights
T - wall session, felt OK, couple of good ticks.
W - nothing, walk to work from van and back, fly to london
T - nothing much, remembrance service, drink and eat too much
F - nothing much, funeral, eat too much.
S - pack for holiday
S - for holiday
M - East Links Farm - weather ming, run about with kids, then do traverse of the climbing barn while kids play "cat and mouse" in hay bales. Get numb fingers and hot aches it's so cold. Set up rock rungs and have a reasonable session including some core in evening
T - Nothing in morning. walk in afternoon. Short Session at AR2 in evening. climb OK, but take a while figuring things out. All a bit old school, but a good spot.
W - lots of walking round Scottish museum. Weights in evening. Beer.
T - nothing, beer.
F - nothing - beer. Light rock rung session.
S - short walk, beer.
S - drive home.
Ate too much, drank too much, need to get back on wagon.
W -
-
well done everyone
did nothing all week, left shoulder hurts a bit but nothing serious. hope to get out climbing in the next week. Its feast or famine here...
-
Effort Muenchener!
STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid June
MTG: undecided
LTG: 8c, by June 2018
Bouldering phase.
M. Tired from weekend, crick in neck/shoulder from belay/guide duties
T. Tired. Went to cave , got pads out, sat on pads yawning, packed pads away and went home.
W. Tired. Tremerchion, got pads out, sat on pads yawning, watched nike air do Enter the Dragon, packed pads away, went home. (got beta for heel move on 36 Chambers, useful).
T. Tremerchion, finally not tired. Good progress on 36 Chambers getting to heel in, tickling RH move above.
F. Massage on neck/shoulder crick. Ferry to Dublin to meet girlfriend and drive to Glendalough.
S. Glendalough bouldering with girlfriend and daughter. Amazing!!! Glendo's the best bouldering venue I think I've ever been to. Spent morning playing on 4 and 5 slabs with GF and daughter. They left at midday to watch a play in Dublin. Spent a blissful afternoon circuiting around some classic 5s and 6s. 1 hour walk out to meet GF/daughter at pub in evening. Meal, beer and cards. Perfect day!
S. Glendalough routes. Multi-pitching with girlfriend and daughter. Proper workout just keeping them safe, did Expectancy - hard to get to with a 10-year old, harder than the route! Then did 1st pith of Prelude-Nightmare, brilliant climbing, both loved it. Long day, just made 8.40 ferry back to Wales.
Pitiful training week for Mecca, two in a row. Great times in Glendolough!
-
Advice please :)
So the wrist doc came back with: "we don't know what's wrong with your wrist so either you keep climbing or we do surgery to figure it out"! My knee is still a few weeks off being better so I thought I'd start doing some fingerboarding. I've never really fingerboarded before so after some advice.
I have the Beastmaker app so was just going to try the easiest (5A) exercises and then go from there, is this a sensible idea or are there any better suggestions?
Also, how would you suggest warming up, given I can't go and climb easy routes at the wall with a busted knee?
-
Good post Dave, pretty much agree with all of it. Certainly helped in my case being really shit before having a child, so progression to a bit less shit wasn't hard. Still, the time constraints have made me more motivated and interested in actual training as opposed to pootling about. Get out way more too, just can't do the spur-of-the-moment stuff.
Anyway, the week:
STG: 7B.
MTG: Don't get broken. Get strong for Santa Gadea in June.
Mon: Poor previous week so reduced reps slightly in hope of more consistent performance across sets.
FB (7/8s +10kg 18mm x 4) x 3. Success rep 1, Fail hang 4 reps 2, 3. FB (7/8s +18kg sloper x 4) x 1. Success rep 1.
Brief 4x4s session.
Tue: Rings, 5x4 dips, 6x4 inv rows, 8x4 flyes
Wed: Roof power bouldering at TCA, flashed a couple of 6cs. Woody gone :(
Thu: FB (7/8s +10kg x 4) x 3. Fail rep 3 of 1 (poor taping), success 2, rep 3 of 3. Sloper (7/8s +18kg x 4) x 1.
Fri: Light boulder at TCA. Rings: 4x8 flyes, 4x5 dips, 4x5 inv rows.
Sat: Run 4.5km
Sun: FB (7/8s +10kg x 4) x 3. Success on all reps. Minor YYFY! Sloper (7/8s +18kg x 4) x 1.
-
Advice please :)
So the wrist doc came back with: "we don't know what's wrong with your wrist so either you keep climbing or we do surgery to figure it out"! My knee is still a few weeks off being better so I thought I'd start doing some fingerboarding. I've never really fingerboarded before so after some advice.
I have the Beastmaker app so was just going to try the easiest (5A) exercises and then go from there, is this a sensible idea or are there any better suggestions?
Also, how would you suggest warming up, given I can't go and climb easy routes at the wall with a busted knee?
I've been in the same boat, ruptured Achilles. I usually do abs to get going, crunches,body lowers, lying cycling and lying leg raises then do some upper body weights and the do finger boarding.
-
Get strong for Santa Gadea in June.
Place I've always liked the look of, so be interested in some feedback, especially if its a "with family" trip.
-
Advice please :)
So the wrist doc came back with: "we don't know what's wrong with your wrist so either you keep climbing or we do surgery to figure it out"! My knee is still a few weeks off being better so I thought I'd start doing some fingerboarding. I've never really fingerboarded before so after some advice.
I have the Beastmaker app so was just going to try the easiest (5A) exercises and then go from there, is this a sensible idea or are there any better suggestions?
Also, how would you suggest warming up, given I can't go and climb easy routes at the wall with a busted knee?
I've been in the same boat, ruptured Achilles. I usually do abs to get going, crunches,body lowers, lying cycling and lying leg raises then do some upper body weights and the do finger boarding.
Cheers, hope the Achilles gets better soon!
-
Nothing easy about the Beastmaker "5A" :lol: routine. Good luck.
-
Advice please :)
So the wrist doc came back with: "we don't know what's wrong with your wrist so either you keep climbing or we do surgery to figure it out"! My knee is still a few weeks off being better so I thought I'd start doing some fingerboarding. I've never really fingerboarded before so after some advice.
I have the Beastmaker app so was just going to try the easiest (5A) exercises and then go from there, is this a sensible idea or are there any better suggestions?
Also, how would you suggest warming up, given I can't go and climb easy routes at the wall with a busted knee?
On the wrist business, I haven't read back through all your posts to find out exactly what is going on, however I'm assuming that from your most recent consultation that the MRI was clear and that your waist doc is an orthopaedic surgeon? I'd need a damn good reason to let anyone operate on my wrist. No guarantee surgery will establish what is wrong or make it better. I'd venture that it's more likely to make things worse, especially (and obviously) if no diagnoses is found.
I think in general terms that a wrist that is bad enough to need an op shouldn't be climbed on, and a wrist good enough to climb on shouldn't be operated on.
However it is impossible for any internet climber to give you decent advice on what to do without a bit more detail, and even then I'd take it with a massive pinch of salt at best, if it's anything other than don't climb on it (which it seems to have been so far). If you are going to climb on it then that has to be your decision and you might make it worse. It all depends on what actually happens when you climb, severity and timing of onset of pain etc.
Anyway I don't know if that is useful, may be able to give better advice with more info!
P.S. I think getting on a beastmaker with a wrist injury if you've never been on one before is a terrible idea.
-
Advice please :)
So the wrist doc came back with: "we don't know what's wrong with your wrist so either you keep climbing or we do surgery to figure it out"! My knee is still a few weeks off being better so I thought I'd start doing some fingerboarding. I've never really fingerboarded before so after some advice.
I have the Beastmaker app so was just going to try the easiest (5A) exercises and then go from there, is this a sensible idea or are there any better suggestions?
Also, how would you suggest warming up, given I can't go and climb easy routes at the wall with a busted knee?
On the wrist business, I haven't read back through all your posts to find out exactly what is going on, however I'm assuming that from your most recent consultation that the MRI was clear and that your waist doc is an orthopaedic surgeon? I'd need a damn good reason to let anyone operate on my wrist. No guarantee surgery will establish what is wrong or make it better. I'd venture that it's more likely to make things worse, especially (and obviously) if no diagnoses is found.
I think in general terms that a wrist that is bad enough to need an op shouldn't be climbed on, and a wrist good enough to climb on shouldn't be operated on.
However it is impossible for any internet climber to give you decent advice on what to do without a bit more detail, and even then I'd take it with a massive pinch of salt at best, if it's anything other than don't climb on it (which it seems to have been so far). If you are going to climb on it then that has to be your decision and you might make it worse. It all depends on what actually happens when you climb, severity and timing of onset of pain etc.
Anyway I don't know if that is useful, may be able to give better advice with more info!
P.S. I think getting on a beastmaker with a wrist injury if you've never been on one before is a terrible idea.
Yeah the MRI showed all areas relating to the pain I've been having as being fine, wrist doc is an orthopaedic surgeon. The pain isn't all that bad, I just have downtime from climbing with a damaged knee so I thought I'd use the time to get my wrist looked at. It "popped" last July and bouts of physio, steroid injection etc. have improved but not removed all pain. I can climb on it fine without pain most of the time, the only restrictions are discomfort doing press-ups and while warming up etc. I climbed from January to March without worsening it, but also without it getting fully pain-free. I agree with you about the surgery, definitely staying away from that unless things get bad
The advice I was requesting was more about the specific fingerboard routine people would suggest. I've heard the Beastmaker "grades" are sand-bags so was just wondering if there were any other suggestions. Cheers for your thoughts
-
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26492.0.html
Also, just found this so apologies for asking repeat (ish) questions
-
Yeah the MRI showed all areas relating to the pain I've been having as being fine, wrist doc is an orthopaedic surgeon. The pain isn't all that bad, I just have downtime from climbing with a damaged knee so I thought I'd use the time to get my wrist looked at. It "popped" last July and bouts of physio, steroid injection etc. have improved but not removed all pain. I can climb on it fine without pain most of the time, the only restrictions are discomfort doing press-ups and while warming up etc. I climbed from January to March without worsening it, but also without it getting fully pain-free. I agree with you about the surgery, definitely staying away from that unless things get bad
The advice I was requesting was more about the specific fingerboard routine people would suggest. I've heard the Beastmaker "grades" are sand-bags so was just wondering if there were any other suggestions. Cheers for your thoughts
I had something similar with my wrist but with no specific 'pop'. I do press ups using a set of dumbbells now so no unnatural bending of the wrist. Pain comes back if I don't. Think a focus on core and conditioning sounds like a great idea. If you are getting on a beastmaker in a non supplementary fashion, i.e. the only thing you are doing, and with a bad wrist, be really careful as its a good way to get more injured. Not sure about the specifics of the app.
-
Yeah the MRI showed all areas relating to the pain I've been having as being fine, wrist doc is an orthopaedic surgeon. The pain isn't all that bad, I just have downtime from climbing with a damaged knee so I thought I'd use the time to get my wrist looked at. It "popped" last July and bouts of physio, steroid injection etc. have improved but not removed all pain. I can climb on it fine without pain most of the time, the only restrictions are discomfort doing press-ups and while warming up etc. I climbed from January to March without worsening it, but also without it getting fully pain-free. I agree with you about the surgery, definitely staying away from that unless things get bad
The advice I was requesting was more about the specific fingerboard routine people would suggest. I've heard the Beastmaker "grades" are sand-bags so was just wondering if there were any other suggestions. Cheers for your thoughts
I had something similar with my wrist but with no specific 'pop'. I do press ups using a set of dumbbells now so no unnatural bending of the wrist. Pain comes back if I don't. Think a focus on core and conditioning sounds like a great idea. If you are getting on a beastmaker in a non supplementary fashion, i.e. the only thing you are doing, and with a bad wrist, be really careful as its a good way to get more injured. Not sure about the specifics of the app.
Yeah I'll tread carefully and make sure I'm warm, if not I'm sure you'll all hear about it next week :-[ Press-ups with dumbbells sounds like a good idea