UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: maybe_si on March 16, 2016, 07:48:20 pm
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I spent a fair bit of time on Sardine today, the crux RH undercut is about to fall off, very loose to the point where I was having to figure out alternative beta, it would be a shame if it gets pulled off. Does anyone have the glue/glue gun/experience to fix it? I would give it a go myself but may well end up making a grim mess!
Cheers
Simon
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I could probably do it this weekend, but how crucial is the hold to the route? I don't remember using a RH undrcut when I did it.
I think it's part of the nature of Peak lime routes that holds wobble, change, break and then fall off over time, so I am reluctant to make some things permentant, especially if it's non crucial or used to be even worse.
There was a wobbly foothold on the traverse of The Toilet last year that I didn't re-inforce for this reason. It will be alot harder when it eventually falls off but I didn't want to upset anyone by glueing it down. In retrospect I think this hold should probably be glued but I think a consensus would be good before irreversable glueing
Anyone know the holds in question and have an opinion? :worms:
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I always used to do the crux by the lefthand sequences having clipped the official bolt on the right. A rogue bolt was placed on the left to make this easier but the hold use to clip this from broke, making this bolt redundant. Is the undercut you talk of to the right or left of the good pocket below the official right hand bolt?
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It's the most chalked/most positive undercut which I use to clip the bolt in the middle of the rightwards traverse. There does look to be a scar where something has come off recently about a foot above it?
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Sounds like you are trying to clip the wrong bolt, the one that needs removing. Not sure if this righthand undercut is used for the left via the original sequence? Doubt it will make that much of a difference to most people.
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What is the original sequence?
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Keep traversing low then go straight up.
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Back up to 7b+ now people will have to do it the original way again. :clap2:
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Did anything get clarified on whether the loose hold would make a difference? Im thinking of getting on it but will leave it for the time being if it has changed it much.
Thanks
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It doesn't make any difference to the way it was originally done but renders a new easier (and arguably cheaty) way, obsolete.
HTH
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Nice one! Thanks.
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Zips and I went on it yesterday. He pulled the remaining loose hold off with ease. He never used it anyway but it made it a bit more awkward for me as it was more positive than the higher undercut. Can't really comment as my fingers were frozen numb. Just a good excuse not to go on it.