UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: ellis on February 24, 2016, 08:46:07 am
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Amazing conditions out there. A couple of surprising finds up at High Neb to throw into the mix:
High Neb Boa ~6B
The right arete of High Neb Buttress on its right side, using the arete for the L and a pebble for the R to gain an obvious toe hold.
Dunge Master ~7B
The wall left of Kelly's Variation using marginal crimps in a vague seam to slap the sloping break. An obsession for nearly a year and probably the hardest move I've done.
Sorry about the approximate grades, I've not been getting out much. Would be interested in opinions, especially if they're higher!
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Good effort Ellis!
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Good job Ellis.
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Dunge Master ~7B
The wall left of Kelly's Variation using marginal crimps in a vague seam to slap the sloping break. An obsession for nearly a year and probably the hardest move I've done
Went and did this today, def a hard move but I think 7B is about right. Conditions were pretty good so maybe worth a +... Wasn't totally sure where you started, on tip toe with L hand on the poor crimp? That's how I did it. I then did a v. low sit start to it starting on 2 little pockets below the little break which is below the poor crimp. Sat on pads you could pos start in the break but I didn't. About 7B+/C
The original is a good move, nice rock.
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Cheers!
I got my L toe on with hands lower then reached up to the crimps, and pulled on to get the R foothold.
Shows that good things can come to those who belay SPSA trainees on Severes :)
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Good work with the sitter. Dave Musgrove also did a left hand variation on Sunday, out to the hold on the L arete, he reckons a similar grade.