UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Doylo on February 14, 2016, 08:43:03 pm
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https://instagram.com/p/BBxxHlbC-Eh/ (https://instagram.com/p/BBxxHlbC-Eh/)
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Great stuff. Sweepstake on the grade? I reckon not as hard as we might imagine.
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7c
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I was there when Ned was trying this and it looked massive and v scary! 6 pads minimum. looked like height might help, another chap was trying it who cut loose completely whereas Ned's left hand stays low. A great addition
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Has this got a name? The Jack, The King, The Queen, The Bridge Scoring Card?
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I was there when Ned was trying this and it looked massive and v scary! 6 pads minimum. looked like height might help, another chap was trying it who cut loose completely whereas Ned's left hand stays low. A great addition
Or he's just strong enough to hold a low lock and technically good enough to time the movement just right. He's not a giant by any stretch of the imagination.
Impressed with how controlled he looks in that vid, top effort.
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Looks brilliant, and easy in that clip!
Jack/king/Queen/eight of Hearts?
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Jumping Jack Flash
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Has this got a name? The Jack, The King, The Queen, The Bridge Scoring Card?
call it the joker, classic grimer pranks
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Dirty Liz (or Black Maria)
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This is impressive news. Well done!
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This is impressive news. Well done!
Had Polish Dave tried this a bit in the past (he's not short, nor weak)? and perhaps Huffy too (no weakling either)?
I always thought it'd involve having to use the poor seam/crimps to the left but obviously not. Good effort to the Champ! The landing is appalling.
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Fucking nice work!
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I was guessing Ned from the 2nd post, good effort that man, he's on fire at the mo. Well, not literally like Shark's hand, but you know what I mean...
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Queen of Hearts
(Valentine's day innit)
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Queen of Hearts
(Valentine's day innit)
+1
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Aces High
or Gambit
(Card throwing mutant superhero innit)
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Ace Of BASE
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Full house.
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Ned's Dyno.
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Stacked Deck
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Has Ned made any comment about the grade?
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Has Ned made any comment about the grade?
That's a rubbish name :spank:
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Has Ned made any comment about the grade?
Did I read "somewhere between 7a and 9a" on social media somewhere?
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Think Ned is saying 7c-ish on the old instantgrammar. Which means it's not even the hardest FA on grit this weekend. Move along people, nothing to see here.
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Think Ned is saying 7c-ish on the old instantgrammar. Which means it's not even the hardest FA on grit this weekend. Move along people, nothing to see here.
We could all have the wrong interpretation of FA of course....
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Last I heard he was going to call it Full House and was thinking 7C but wanted to do some other dynos to get a feel for the grade.
Landing wise Ned and Matt were both landing in pretty much the same (flat) spot every time and were only using three pads, you could do it with two decent pads and a spot. As is often the case the landing is more intimidating than terrible. Once they'd had a few throws and got the measure of it they could confidently go for the move without much fear of overshooting the pads.
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Full house.
:goodidea: :icon_welcome: 8)
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Decent name that.
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Ace Of BASE
Ace of Spades, tribute to the recently departed.
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Looks like the answer's in...
http://peakbouldering.info/problems/6007-full-house#.VsRhzvmLTZY
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Nice one Ned, great to see this get done. I've looked at this loads over the years but never tried it due to the terrible landing.
Great stuff :bounce:
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Last I heard he was going to call it Full House and was thinking 7C but wanted to do some other dynos to get a feel for the grade.
Landing wise Ned and Matt were both landing in pretty much the same (flat) spot every time and were only using three pads, you could do it with two decent pads and a spot. As is often the case the landing is more intimidating than terrible. Once they'd had a few throws and got the measure of it they could confidently go for the move without much fear of overshooting the pads.
Hmmm, not convinced I'd wanna be having goes on this with 2 mats without some serious balls. Let's not forget Ned's got balls coming out of his arse.
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Let's not forget Ned's got balls coming out of his arse.
whoa there, i thought he had that sorted out years ago
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...and he thinks putting a pad beneath a route makes it a highball; questionable judgement on appropriate padding :tease:
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...and he thinks putting a pad beneath a route makes it a highball; questionable judgement on appropriate padding :tease:
Like this??
http://vimeo.com/33103583
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also known as young man's legs.
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Tom newman made a quick repeat of this the other day.
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6 door 4 guy repeats dyno, roll roll up
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also known as young man's legs.
knees
back
ankles etc...
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6 door 4 would be impressive however I meant 6 foot 4!!!
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6 door 4 would be impressive however I meant 6 foot 4!!!
I was wondering how you got your doors in your shoes...
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I've seen the video of Tom on this and unsurprising he made it look about 6C. Dyno? You mean rockover!
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Did he have any thoughts on the grade?
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Probably the same thoughts as Ned - grading dynos is arbitrary at best.
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Did he have any thoughts on the grade?
Probably the same thoughts as Ned - grading dynos is arbitrary at best.
Pretty much as the wise grasshopper above states; supposedly it's fairly hard to get into the position but once Tom (Chris says hi BTW) had his leg up he said it was very straightforward (and it did look that way). Perhaps it's just one of these things that's gone under the radar due to being perceived as futuristic (although I'm surprised if it's as it appears that Polish Dave didn't do it sooner)?
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Probably more that the lending was perceived as suicidal. I think anyone who is reasonably familiar with dynos will at some point have looked at it and written it off on the basis of the landing not the climbing.
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Probably more that the lending was perceived as suicidal.
Surely you'd expect a high interest rate in that case
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Big payday loan required to cover a safe number of pads.
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Perhaps it's just one of these things that's gone under the radar due to being perceived as futuristic (although I'm surprised if it's as it appears that Polish Dave didn't do it sooner)?
I just asked him. He's never tried it. He did mess around on that boulder, but not on that line. I think the landing put him off.
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And yet its now been done with 3 pads and spotters, and Jon mentioned it could probably be done with 2 and a good spot. Just goes to show that you never know what's what 'till you pull on and have a go. Great stuff.
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There's nothing unusual about this. Most LGPs in popular areas with any sort of barrier to attempting ( such as they need a roped clean, or quite a few pads, or a risky few throws above an iffy landing whilst you find out where you're going to land) get talked about vastly more often than they get tried. Everyone assumes better/bolder climbers must have already tried and failed on the thing if it remains unclimbed in the middle of a popular venue and hence it's pointless putting any time into it. Any FAer worth his salt knows this and will check out these collective blind spots. Even today you're more likely to find a good unclimbed project in the middle of a popular venue than you are by scouring a host of obscure venues.
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Same with routes. The odd good newie still exist at popular crags.