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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: BRoe on December 03, 2015, 04:33:29 pm

Title: The Effects of Injuries on the Motivation of Climbers
Post by: BRoe on December 03, 2015, 04:33:29 pm
To all Climbers over the age of 18!

I'm currently undergoing the process of completing my dissertation, which I have chosen to do on the effects injuries have on the motivation of rock climbers. Although the data will be analysed qualitatively, I have created a pilot questionnaire for quantitative data so I can effectively prove the validity of my research topic. If you could take 10-15 minutes of your time to fill out this questionnaire it would be massively beneficial and greatly appreciated as much as possible.

Thank you for taking the time to read this and here's the link to the questionnaire:
https://cumbria.onlinesurveys.ac.uk/the-effects-of-injuries-on-the-motivation-of-rock-climbers

 For any queries about the research please contact Ben Roe at: broederby@gmail.com
Title: Re: The Effects of Injuries on the Motivation of Climbers
Post by: slackline on December 03, 2015, 04:41:52 pm
If you've not done so already I'd suggest posting a link to this on the following sub-Reddits which might help increase your response rate...

/r/climbing (http://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/)
/r/climbharder (http://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/)
/r/bouldering (http://www.reddit.com/r/bouldering/)

Good luck with your dissertation.
Title: Re: The Effects of Injuries on the Motivation of Climbers
Post by: BRoe on December 03, 2015, 04:56:48 pm
Thank you very much I'll get on it :)
Title: Re: The Effects of Injuries on the Motivation of Climbers
Post by: rich d on December 03, 2015, 05:01:33 pm
completed, although you mistakenly seem to have asked for V grades and not font.
Title: Re: The Effects of Injuries on the Motivation of Climbers
Post by: 36chambers on December 03, 2015, 05:03:33 pm
Done. Sounds like an interesting study.
Title: Re: The Effects of Injuries on the Motivation of Climbers
Post by: Fiend on December 03, 2015, 07:20:46 pm
Done, solely because you asked for V grades.
Title: Re: The Effects of Injuries on the Motivation of Climbers
Post by: tomtom on December 03, 2015, 08:25:27 pm
I didn't understand that question ;)
Title: Re: The Effects of Injuries on the Motivation of Climbers
Post by: SA Chris on December 03, 2015, 08:26:06 pm
Done
Title: Re: The Effects of Injuries on the Motivation of Climbers
Post by: filz on December 03, 2015, 09:18:35 pm
Done! Interesting study. Please post a link to the dissertation when finished.

Inviato dal mio Nexus 7 utilizzando Tapatalk

Title: Re: The Effects of Injuries on the Motivation of Climbers
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 03, 2015, 10:35:40 pm
Done.
Title: Re: The Effects of Injuries on the Motivation of Climbers
Post by: BRoe on December 04, 2015, 12:10:40 am
Thank you all! A link will be posted when the research is complete :)
Title: Re: The Effects of Injuries on the Motivation of Climbers
Post by: cjsheps on December 04, 2015, 08:00:32 am
Done. I'll be interested in the results!
Title: Re: The Effects of Injuries on the Motivation of Climbers
Post by: Will Hunt on December 04, 2015, 12:44:43 pm
I assumed that I'd never been injured because I've never had finger/shoulder injuries etc. However when presented with the question "have you ever been physically injured as a result of climbing" I realised that my leg break did indeed count as an injury.
I'm not sure if it was your intention to study injuries picked up as a result of ballsing up easy trad routes/falling off awkwardly etc or whether you just want to concentrate on "performance related" injuries...
Title: Re: The Effects of Injuries on the Motivation of Climbers
Post by: webbo on December 04, 2015, 01:21:03 pm
I put every sort of injury I've had as a result of climbing, however when I got to double figures. I couldn't be bothered to keep going.
Title: Re: The Effects of Injuries on the Motivation of Climbers
Post by: mctrials23 on December 04, 2015, 01:24:34 pm
I only put ones that were directly related to the activity of climbing rather than injuries that happened as a result of an accident. I doubt he wants to hear about how you sprained your ankle walking around at a wall. A climbing related injury to me is an injury that happened from a movement on the wall while actually climbing or training for climbing, not an injury that just happened while climbing.
Title: Re: The Effects of Injuries on the Motivation of Climbers
Post by: Will Hunt on December 04, 2015, 01:35:57 pm
I only put ones that were directly related to the activity of climbing rather than injuries that happened as a result of an accident. I doubt he wants to hear about how you sprained your ankle walking around at a wall. A climbing related injury to me is an injury that happened from a movement on the wall while actually climbing or training for climbing, not an injury that just happened while climbing.

Probably depends on the seriousness of the injury, the effect it had on the climber as to whether its interesting or not. I'm sure the scope will have to be limited in this respect but take, for instance, a climber who's been struck by rockfall while belaying. They might react to this in a number of ways: give up climbing altogether; stop trad climbing; carry on as normal; get really into training during recovery etc etc etc.
In the case of my own injury (breaking my leg in an avoidable accident, trying a crap E2 after making a conscious decision to not try the far superior HVS next door because I was in a stupid "E points" competition with my housemates), it made me completely re-evaluate my approach to trad climbing and to bold routes in general. I also started bouldering more as a direct result of the accident and then got really into that. The rapid and massive gains in technique that come from switching from trad puntering to bouldering trying motivated me to do more bouldering but also meant I then had the confidence to do the occassional harder trad route (because the physical climbing on an E3/E4 now felt relateively easy).

If this is an undergrad piece of work then the scope is going to need to be quite tight and I suspect peformance related injuries will be much easier to study and produce nice clear results; if its a PhD it will be hard to ignore the more difficult areas of study.
Title: Re: The Effects of Injuries on the Motivation of Climbers
Post by: SA Chris on December 04, 2015, 01:37:46 pm
However when presented with the question "have you ever been physically injured as a result of climbing" I realised that my leg break did indeed count as an injury.

I put in sprained  / dislocated / severly fucked my ankle falling off too. Along with all the other finger, elbow and shoulder issues.
Title: Re: The Effects of Injuries on the Motivation of Climbers
Post by: thekettle on December 04, 2015, 08:56:05 pm
Done. Nice survey Ben, I'll be interested in the results.
Title: Re: The Effects of Injuries on the Motivation of Climbers
Post by: Nibile on December 05, 2015, 09:04:57 am
Done. The list of injures I've suffered from climbing is fun and depressing at the same time.
Title: Re: The Effects of Injuries on the Motivation of Climbers
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 05, 2015, 11:47:56 am
Fun for the physio but depressing for you?
Title: Re: The Effects of Injuries on the Motivation of Climbers
Post by: Nibile on December 05, 2015, 02:42:08 pm
Ahahah kind of...
Title: Re: The Effects of Injuries on the Motivation of Climbers
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 05, 2015, 05:36:09 pm
I assumed that mountaineering injuries are outside the purview of this survey.
If not, please, add bits of big toe (right foot) missing from frostbite, three cases of snow blindness and a complicated ankle fracture/drug induced nightmare...


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Title: Re: The Effects of Injuries on the Motivation of Climbers
Post by: Fultonius on December 05, 2015, 06:21:37 pm
I excluded my triple ligament knee destruction as occurred on the drive home from winter climbing - even thought that resulted in my longest layoff and most physio/rehab.
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