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the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Banana finger on November 15, 2015, 04:48:46 pm

Title: darkness before dawn
Post by: Banana finger on November 15, 2015, 04:48:46 pm
Hi Virtual Chums,
                        I hate to open a festering and stressful can of worms here :worms:, but is this believed to be an actual problem? I know there is the 'hills have allies' version which goes to the arete rather than 'straight up' (which seemed almost unfeasible in its own right when I looked at it). Whats the consensus here?.......maybe the darkness is the same as the hills have allies but there was a bit of a mix up in the description of the line when it was first done?

 :popcorn:
Title: Re: darkness before dawn
Post by: Moo on November 25, 2015, 12:33:00 pm
I don't know, but this is certainly an interesting question Shirley there's a ukb'r here with some input. Danny?
Title: Re: darkness before dawn
Post by: turnipturned on November 25, 2015, 01:46:23 pm
For what its worth: I have looked at this problem a few years ago, I wont like to speculated on whether it has actually been done, but I can confirm that it would be a lot harder than V12 as originally suggested! There is not much over that lip!
Title: Re: darkness before dawn
Post by: r-man on November 25, 2015, 02:56:50 pm
Photo for reference...

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/darkness2.jpg)
Title: Re: darkness before dawn
Post by: Banana finger on November 25, 2015, 04:38:20 pm
For what its worth: I have looked at this problem a few years ago, I wont like to speculated on whether it has actually been done, but I can confirm that it would be a lot harder than V12 as originally suggested! There is not much over that lip!

Yeah the end move bust to the lip and then up seems about 8B in its own right....from my armchair.......Well I guess this problem is kinda an Irish elephant in the room/guidebook.

I guess I won't try this given that it is almost certainly not 8A+........maybe this prob needs a disclaimer in the guidebook IMHO. 

.....Gone are the days.......
Title: Re: darkness before dawn
Post by: SA Chris on November 25, 2015, 04:58:09 pm
Young boys on the moor, jumpers for bouldering mats......
Title: Re: darkness before dawn
Post by: Danny on November 26, 2015, 12:04:09 pm
Not the first (and probably not the last) time a >=8B climber has made this kind of remark about this problem. The 8A looks to be the one to do in any case.

For what its worth: I have looked at this problem a few years ago, I wont like to speculated on whether it has actually been done, but I can confirm that it would be a lot harder than V12 as originally suggested! There is not much over that lip!
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