UKBouldering.com
places to visit => uk and eire => Topic started by: tesla on August 16, 2004, 06:27:40 pm
-
Anyone got any suggestions for good places to go in the peak for bouldering on limestone? (aside from the obvious places like ravens tor or water-cum-jolly)
I've heard stoney is a bit of a grotty location and hence have never bothered to go - is this true?
-
They lied about Stoney, the location is actually quite pleasant on a sunny summer's day (remember them - last seen 1987), with the light mellowed and dappled through the tree canopy.
Okay the rock is a polished bag of, but given that the bouldering is pretty decent especially for technical walls and thin crimpy stuff.
-
I went to Rheinstor for the first time a couple of weeks ago. And my fingers still hurt. Pocketed limestone a few degrees beyond vertical. Lots of pockets to choose from and most seem to be fairly flat-bottomed and have sharp lips. Made my fingers hurt but I did have a good time and it's very different from the usual crimpy, polished limestone in the Peak. Lovely setting too.
-
Oh yes, Rheinstor, forgot about that.
Agree with all of the above, nice place, nice looking rock, guaranteed to turn minor tweaks and aches into permantly debilitating damage :twisted:
-
Harborough Rocks looks quite nice, though I've still never been there. More of a low grade soloing venue really, but the rock looks nice.
Rheinstor is indeed hurty but a nice place, and even though Stoney can look nice in the sun, it's still a bag of shite.
-
Not quite in the peak but Roche Abbey and Pleasley Vale are pretty good in an outdoor climbing wall kind of way.
For harder stuff Dog's Dinner buttress down cheedaleand bits and bobs in Blackwell dale.
-
aside from boobicon, shaven haven tor, boney and crag-sex, like lovejoy sez theres give-the-dog-a-boner buttress in chee dizzale, pleasley vizzle and roche to the chabby down maltby way which is totally rad.
i did some VDiffs at harborough back in the day. twas a funny story, me and a mate ben decided harbro' looked good, but knew nowt about it other than it was near a village called middleton. approaching ddusk and at about the sixth middleton visited we eventually found the crag and it was nice. worth the 100miles covered to get there.
-
Wasn't Mo developing some bouldering venue out towards Doncaster by a river. A lovely setting and not far from a pub, probably very similar rock to Roche Abbey. I wonder what became of that?
J
-
It's not meant to be that great apparantly.
-
aye, down by sprotborough. i never been but its supposed to be alright. i dare say its no cuisiniere though.
http://www.betaclimbingdesigns.com/scene/NewVenuePreview.shtml
-
I checked this spot out about six years ago with Andy Crome, we did a couple of good highballs then never went back. Went for another look this year and wasn't inspired to put boots on. Basically its got two or three good probs and the rest is scrappy and eliminate.
-
doesn't sound like anywhere mo would go :shock:
-
What's give the-dog-a-boner butress like in chizzle dale
any topos available ?
A few of the trees in that area have been chopped so might get a bit more daylight now.
-
its good, theres a thread about it on here somewhere. sunny aspect, several obvious lines, sitters and ting. i've not seena topo, but you can go there and everythig is pretty obvious. we were there with no mat and it was still boss.
kim on the easy central flakline thing, good with a high finish using an undercut:
(http://www.beardownproductions.co.uk/Webclimbphotos/kimdogs01.jpg)
-
Cheers for the info
Looks worth a punt, not sure that I'd drag a mat down their either.
Old skool car mat an towel should do the job.