UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: shark on November 08, 2015, 09:40:09 pm
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11.0 - 11.1
M. Decided to start training endurance for Chulilla. Did 3 x 20/10s = 360moves on systems board using incut edges on 10's and rounded jugs on 20's. Figured starting wih a 10 on each set makes more sense than a 20. Surprised at how fit I was. Will work towards doing the 20/10s on just the edges and then maybe on the screw on footholds. Brief go on crusher crimps at start and still strong on them
T.
W. Noon. Up with Nick, Toby and Maddy. Expected Oak to be dry but there was dirty black wet streak virtually the full length of the route. Cons x 2 F&EEE x 2. Holds greasy. Joined in with Nick on Raindogs. Best go was a top rope in overlapping halves which I was pleased with. Started top roping F&EEE at end but lost will to live. Got home. Nick stayed and we demolished a couple of bottles of red each.
W. Hungover
T.
F. Noon. Systems board Played on Crusher crimps and undercuts for 20 mins then did 2 x 20/10s = 240 moves on systems board using incut edges on 10's and incut edges for first 20 then rounded jugs after. Reverted to starting with a 20
S.
S. Malham. Filthy weather. Most stuff wet. Did Consenting 3x. Put a rope on Raindogs. Starting holds wet so stuffed shopping bag and rag in holds Tommy worked it then first redpoint got up to final bolt. Second redpoint he got his fingers to the belay krab. :o I had a few unimpressive goes. Temperature warmed up and everything greased out. :( Packed up early. Did a bit of deadhanging and arm work when home before dinner.
Operation Stamlord now underway in prep for Jam trip to Chulilla – hence AeroCap work. Still gathering my thoughts on how best to crush the Oak in the Spring french blowing and scratching my arse all the way. May start a thread :worms:
This week’s aim. Stop guzzling wine and get back under 11 stone
Here we go – sorry about the top. Also he doesn’t do the leg swing by the second
www.youtube.com/watch?v=EN8EI_NBVbs
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Tommy looks solid on Raindogs- he's come on so much since when I was last there (end of August?). :strong bench:
Malham looks bleak though!
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Good skills from Tommy there, pity it's currently wet
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M - short wall session. Fairly productive but nothing revolutionary. Reset in roof, so worked on a few things there. Sick child up 4 or 5 times in the night.
T - nothing - wiped - stared at TV for a few hours and went to bed. Relatively better night sleep wise all praise anti biotics.
W - good longer wall session. Manged to get prob I was working on roof, and one on 45 deg that has eluded me so far. Plus "easy" grey slug holds prob that has eluded me for weeks.
T - some core.
F - some weights
S - nothing
S - some IKEA building, elbow feels a bit tweaky :(
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STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done.
Raining a lot this week...
M: Rest.
T: St Leonards. Usual Tuesday. Flashed all new problems bar hardest 2 and started making new ones straight away. Everyone else was struggling on the panel and I found it really easy which is good I guess. Campus, shoulder work, fingerboard, push ups and some core after. Rain.
W: Rest. Rain
T: St Peters. Don't get over here that much. Been ages since last time so just going through as many of the harder problems that I can. Did a lot of stuff, got close on a bunch of things and failed on others. Flashed a few supposedly "hard" dyno problems which were fun.
F: Rest. Beers. Too many beers. Rain...
S: Deep Creek. Hungover. Rain forecast for late arvo, reckoned that Deep Creek would dry out pretty quick and I bet right. It's up on a hill and next to a lake, nice and exposed to the wind. Warmed up on Jimmy's 5 and then jumped back onto Night Crawler V8 (finishes up the 5) to sort out the first move(s) as I got the rest first session. All on crimps with a barely rest after a few tough moves... Took awhile to work it out (weird toe cam and drop knee into blind toe and heel hook...), all the while watching the rain hitting the city in the distance. Hope was to just get the first section dialed this session but after I got that, might as well try and go for the top. Got all the way through the low moves and then fell off the hard move of the 5. Twice. Had to pack up at this point because the rain was coming over the lake right toward me... Grrrr....
S: Deep Creek, Seaforth and St Leonards. Overcast and windy. Nice and coolish. Back to Deep Creek in the morning, warmed up on the 5 doing it first go (never first go...), then started trying Night Crawler from the start. Fucked up blind foot placement a couple times (swore I did it like that yesterday...) but then did it right and went to the top. Fucking yes! Did the 2nd half again to top for other angle on video and packed up... Pleased. 2nd V8. :2thumbsup:
Stopped by Seaforth, another micro-crag with 3 problems: V2, V8, V10 (unrepeated since put up in 2010....). The 8 is fairly high and looks quite cool so threw pads under and started working it. The rock is sharp and it's a tough problem. Didn't last long on it and only getting to maybe halfway point (problem is ~6m high).
Late arvo went to the St Leonards with mates. Warmed up doing bunch of harder problems first go and tried some of my made up problems. Bunch of campussing after.
Hard rose on Night Crawler. Bottom section is all slopey crimps...
(http://www.thecrag.com/image/photo/00004/modified/778885773.jpg)
And topping out.
(http://www.thecrag.com/image/photo/00004/modified/778885779.jpg)
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STG: ?
MTG: ?
LTG (2016/2017): Redpoint 7b's with dance-themed names (Sautanz, Brachiation)
Am backing off the climbing training for a couple of weeks. My climbing performance has stagnated, fingers are feeling battered in general and left middle A2 pulley in particular has been quite sore for a while. Recovery / general fitness phase.
M:
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Short bouldering session + weighted pullups 4 x 3 x +10kg.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes. Eight routes up to 6b+.
T:
F:
S: Hillwalking, Herzogstand. 1:20 for 800 metres height gain w/15kg rucksack. This is a pleasant walk and conveniently less than an hour from home, so a good baseline for alpine/aerobic fitness.
S: Family bike outing. M jnr wanted to go plane spotting so rode to the airport. 3 hours on the bike in total, mostly in woodland along the river. Very pleasant.
Evening: wall, Thalkirchen. Light bouldering session with M jnr. Took advantage of being at the wall and wanting to go easy on pulleys by doing a few sets of max hangs on the nice dirty sticky BM slopers - much easier than the nasty clean, slippery ones I have at home. And weighted pullups 4 x 3 x +10kg.
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84.5Kg
M -
T -
W - Foundry lunch - light bouldering
T - School lunch - light bouldering
F - Foundry lunch - light bouldering
S -
S - School pm. Bouldering, mainly up problems on circuit board. One go at pink circuit managing 20-move link.
Back has been bad all week, finally released Sunday afternoon not sure doing what, maybe just fettling with kids bikes. Felt fine Sunday evening, though it doesn't feel as though I'm completely out of the woods.
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S/MTG - board projects.
Mon - dumbbell complex, power cleans pyramid completed for first time. Hill sprints. Fantastic.
Tue - rest.
Wed - foa's. Not enough time to do a contrast training session, just tested form with a few foa's, good progress. Both left and right. Clearly foa's affect less my dodgy left shoulder girdle and luckily my elbows as well. Good speed also. Work to be done on the edge though, but it was very hot. Jumps, power press/overhead walk combo.
Thu - not enough time for bouldering. Did one foot bouldering with 8 kg, all 4 test problems. Big big improvements. Feet bolted to the board. Brilliant. Dumbbell complex, power clean/shoulder carry combo. Very heavy session.
Fri - rest.
Sat - board climbing. Good links on the project, did it in two overlapping halves, still very hard. Barbell complex, dumbbell complex.
Sun - board climbing. Tired, didn't have enough in the tank to try the project, so rehearsed crux sequences of various problems. I got a lot more consistent, promising. Short links, got better during the session.
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Missed a week as im abroad so here is a brief one:
M Indoor bouldering
T Rest
W Rest
T Indoor bouldering
F Rest
S V2/3 highball 5.11b Circuit Breaker, yosemite
S Easy highballs at Happy Boulders (bishop)
M snowed at Buttermilks, did a V1 highball before it started
T snowed
W rained
T rest as sandstone wet
F bouldering Kraft Mountain, did a nice circuit V4
S bouldering Joshua tree. Did yabo roof at V3, (Joshua tree v3 = UK V4+/5?!?)
S rest
I really suck at bouldering and often don't have the drive to try hard. I want to change this but I'm struggling!
Seems I climb routes at my max boulder grade!
Ps USA bouldering grades are nails.... Either we are too soft or they are too harsh!
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/12208573_10153144547302019_479437630934640132_n.jpg?efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&oh=5022798af41d597482d2ca53b1a63c11&oe=56FA703C)
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/12208297_10153142589572019_1858959802888134193_n.jpg?efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&oh=800ffd861a6ca6104eb64dfc264b3cf1&oe=56AD0A86)
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Meh.
M- Brother-in-law hospitalised with Guillain-Barré syndrome, so pretty crap week (he'll be fine but it's going to take a while).
T - Nothing
W - Very humid indoor session with little direction. Tweaked my thumb.
Th - Nothing
F - Planned to start my BM sessions in the morning but thumb tweaky.
S - At Hospital
Su - took Nephew to Hottee du diable and invented some kid's stuff for him. I did 2 blue problems. 20° today WTF. Back to hospital.
In better news I'm not working today and the sun in shining....
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STG: Lose 5kg
Thought I'd join in again...
Sun - 1.5 hour bike ride moderate pace
Mon - 2k row & kettlebells
Tue - Pressups and squats
Thur to Sun on holiday in Berlin. Lots of walking but lots of eating and drinking also.
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Week of base training, core and mobility.
5 AeroCap sessions, some current stuff, some new stuff, some old stuff revisited.
Some good, some not so, retrying old stuff confirms progress.
4 1/2 hours contact time.
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STG: regain pre-parenthood levels of ability / fitness
LTG: Font 7b
M: Nowt.
T: Horrid day at work. Leeds Wall after. Quite intense, powered round the greens (V4ish) and the a few of the reds (V5ish). Beers afterwards.
W: Gym on lunch. 500m row warmup then 10 x 5 of strict push-ups, 25kg shoulder press and BW (65kg) deadlifts. Hard.
T: Nowt.
F: Gym on lunch. Tried Weds workout but just didn't have the physical / mental appetite.
S: Nowt.
S: Nowt.
Not getting to climb very much for a number of reasons so just trying to keep ticking over with gym sessions. Quite depressing when I do climb though as I feel like every time I do it highlights how quickly I am going backwards!
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STG: rehab finger injuries, at risk of jinxing myself, this is kind of done (yyfy) and now more a matter of gradually increasing load without reinjury.
MTG: get back to bouldering at reasonable standard
this week's entry is really just a report of a trip to Chulilla where I did some moderate onsighting, no redpointing at all.
Sun last week: first day, not great weather and did an afternoon at Peneta. onsighted a 6c+ slab with holds crumbling between my fingers.
M. lots of rain, no climbing
T. lots of wet rock so choice was a bit constrained, just wandered about trying some things without worrying about whether they were meant to be good or not. As a result I did some of the worst sport routes I've ever tried, bad rock and dirty
W. went to Ca Germa/Nanopark and onsighted up to 7a. some nice routes and good rock here
T. rest
F. realize I don't have much time left, climbed at Pared de Enfrente and did a few 6cs and onsighted a great v. pumpy 7a+, just about making it to the top
S. Lamentaciones, few easier routes and a good onsight of catador de sake 7a+/7b, got desperately pumped, got sequences wrong about three times but just about made it. happy with this.
Had a ropy start and wasn't that keen on Chulilla to begin with, but the last few days were brilliant and I was psyched to do a bit of quality sport climbing, although I didn't even try anything hard. Going to take it easy this week and then go back to trying to get some bouldering umf back in the next month or two.
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M: Beastmaker session - working the back 2/3
Tu: Harmers. Came quite close to Mudlark in iffy conditions
We: Work/travel/no time
Th: Logport Wall. Good session - felt like I was climbing well
Fr: Logport Wall. Medium outing - tired from day before
Sa: Beastmaker (large slots) whilst listening to the Sat afternoon football scores roll in..
Su: Big Sunday lunch - couple of beers..
The week can be summed up in two words: Weather; Meh.
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STG: sort out niggles
MTG: Jason's Roof/Ben's groove sitter
LTG: 8B
M: indoors, easy session, mostly on roofs as more finger friendly.
T: circuit training lunch. conditioning evening.
W: indoors, thought I had taken it easy, but my tweaky finger was swollen and agitated afterwards. I find it impossibly to tell during a session whether I've taken it too far.
T: week 9 of the gym ball core program.
F: rest, friend visiting.
S: indoors. Grim weather. Flashing easy problems.
S: rest
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STG- Extremes/ 7s on grit this season. Wall of Horrors before it's too hot again.
MTG- 7b/+ in 2016
LTG- 8a
M-W Rest/ nothing
Th- Notts Depot. First time in weeks. Flashed quite a few red (third hardest circuit) problems but burnt myself out on a long roof one that I kept greasing off (still shorts weather on plastic but I didn't take any) and tried harder problems fruitlessly after that. Didn't feel too worked.
F- Rest. As usual after an indoor session I feel absolutely rinsed despite not feeling so at the time.
Sa- Not feeling good with sore throat. Go to football match, try not to shout too much.
Su- Still feeling crap. Nothing.
Not feeling positive about climbing this week. It's wet and still surreally hot for the time of year but I'm weaker on plastic than I've been at this point in the last 3-4 winters, partly due to working on films, which I feel very positive about. I'd hoped to pull my finger out and do some proper indoor training this weekend but illness put paid to that.
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Quite depressing when I do climb though as I feel like every time I do it highlights how quickly I am going backwards!
Sounds like early stages of parenthood. Don't worry it gets to a point when you are climbing so rarely you forget how good you used to be, then reaches a point when you are just glad to be climbing!
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STG: climb outside
MTG: do something which makes me feel I've not lost all my strength - V5, 7a something of that ilk.
LTG: same as it ever was (c) David Byrne
M: I can't remember think I was still ill
T: Went to have a look at the traverse underneath the Sea Mills bridge (Bristol) as heard it used to be an old pre climbing wall training venue. It wasn't bad, bit like Henry Price (for any Leeds alumni out there) but much smaller crimps. I didn't manage the full traverse but got some good links, god knows how hard it is - 7a+? Maybe harder. Had to stop as fingers hurt, not in a bad way though.
W: Think I did 5 pull ups, fingers still reeling from previous day.
T: 2 sets on fingerboard
F: 1 set on fingerboard + 2 x 20 press ups
S: 2 x 10 pull ups
S: nothing
Planning to get out this Saturday depending on weather so fingers crossed.
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Mon: foot on campussing at home, still too dodge to attempt footless
Tue:
Wed:
Thurs: stronger foot on campussing and deep pullups etc.
Fri:
Sat: wall session: first footless campussing post virus. not great, but not too bad 1-5-7 smalls ok, but nowhere near (previous weeks) tapping 8th rung first try each side. don't attempt any one-handed stuff, that'll wait another week. finish with a few easy problems.
Sun:
Feeling human again this week at least. i always find it hard to gauge just how hard to train post-virus, think I've got it right but i feel a bit lazy :-\
Quite depressing when I do climb though as I feel like every time I do it highlights how quickly I am going backwards!
It does get a bit easier once sleep cycles settle down, so long as you can organise your sessions well. i mostly train at home which makes a big difference, but am back to pre-dad strength (notwithstanding viral setbacks) and am not a youngster by any (other than ukb) standards
Wed - foa's. Not enough time to do a contrast training session, just tested form with a few foa's, good progress. Both left and right. Clearly foa's affect less my dodgy left shoulder girdle and luckily my elbows as well. Good speed also. Work to be done on the edge though, but it was very hot.
look strong, like the video. I'll post some up again once I'm back on it.
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STG: Heaven in your Hands
MTG: FA projects; Two Squirrels; Crystal Method; Secret Seventh; Terry; Rogue (Bat Buttress)
LTG: 8A (possibly something like Vogue at Bat Buttress)
M: Board session. Felt good and good to do another day on after Sigsworth (any tiredness I felt was probably due to the walk in as opposed to the climbing we did!). Switched to bigger crimps and incredi-crap footholds and started to get nicely dialled into them. Set a couple of projects and did them, so can clearly go harder. Finished with 5 x leg raise type exercise (1 rep = hold top of board, pull up and touch right toe to top right of board, down, pull up and touch left toe to top left of board, down)
T: Front lever progressions. Got warmed up and attempted some tuck levers. Got the missus to comment on form and it seems like form was acceptable but didn't hold the positions for very long.
W:
Th: Depot. Made myself climb predominantly on rooves. Was totally shit and got progressively worse as night went on due to hot and sweaty feet slipping around in shoes (heel bagging out on one crucial heel hook in particular). Felt useful to work a weakness. Will try and make a Depot session a weekly event. Had a chat to Will Buck (thoroughly nice young man) who made Rogue and Vogue sound absolutely fucking nails! :doubt: :unsure:
F: Wine, beer and tapas
S:
Sun: Board session. Didn't eat properly beforehand so felt low on energy throughout. Set a couple of new projects which I couldn't do but which should go. Finished 3 x 5 leg raisey things which is a PB (if indeed you can call such a weak performance a "best").
A couple more weeks of rain like this and I'll be a fucking machine. Bought two lamps on Saturday so am primed and ready for a night session!
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MTG: Jason's Roof/Ben's groove sitter
Wot, no Zoo York? Is this because of your finger woes?
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Quite depressing when I do climb though as I feel like every time I do it highlights how quickly I am going backwards!
It does get a bit easier once sleep cycles settle down, so long as you can organise your sessions well. i mostly train at home which makes a big difference, but am back to pre-dad strength (notwithstanding viral setbacks) and am not a youngster by any (other than ukb) standards
Cheers (and Chris too!)...it's more a matter of not getting the time on wall / rock to even consolidate, let alone improve. Never been the strongest / fittest but the speed with which any kind of power, finger strength and endurance has left me is quite depressing.
Short term plan is to keep plugging away at the gym lifting / tabata-ing. Need to shift the Beastmaker from our manky damp cellar to somewhere more useful where I'll actually do stuff on it but need to find an other half-friendly location / solid enough wall!
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MTG: Jason's Roof/Ben's groove sitter
Wot, no Zoo York? Is this because of your finger woes?
I only include my current favourite problems, otherwise the list would be ridiculously long :). But you're right, Zoo York is quite grim on the left hand, so for now it's decreased in priority.
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...who made Rogue and Vogue sound absolutely fucking nails! :doubt: :unsure:
well, you wouldn't want it to be easy.
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Short term plan is to keep plugging away at the gym lifting / tabata-ing. Need to shift the Beastmaker from our manky damp cellar to somewhere more useful where I'll actually do stuff on it but need to find an other half-friendly location / solid enough wall!
I've accepted proper wall / rock time is minimal, but had some OK rock time in Summer (having projects 10-15 minute walk away does help). I've been addressing known weaknesses at home now not much daylight; core, weight training, CV and the occasional session on the pullup bar / BM combination for fingers / campus moves.
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Not getting to climb very much for a number of reasons so just trying to keep ticking over with gym sessions. Quite depressing when I do climb though as I feel like every time I do it highlights how quickly I am going backwards!
Re lunch gym sessions:
Guy I worked with made himself some portable holds and attached them to the Lat pull down machine instead of the bar. Pretty effective if your gym has such a machine.
And you don't even need to make your own now:
http://crusherholds.co.uk/portable-fingerboards-hangboards/crusher-orb-fingerboard
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TTT I reckon the key is to try if at all possible to do some kind of climbing regularly, regardless of the frequency, regular as clockwork, then you'll always have a base to build on, and it's probably easier to keep the psyche if you always know when your next session is, even if it's in 3 weeks time or whatever.
Ideally if you can wangle say a particular night a week where you get a 2 hour window to go to the wall, or twice a week, or once a fortnight or whatever it has to be, then you've got a starting point. Also if you can get the BM up inside the house proper then that's something. If used properly you can even use a BM at home beforehand to hasten the warmup when you go to the wall to get most out of your window or whatever.
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Figuring out how to make effective use of little bits of time is important.
I had a spell when I was collecting my lad from swimming club twice a week at 7 pm. (Bit older than yours I assume). If I left the office at 5, travel time was just under an hour, leaving max session time of an hour plus quickly getting changed. An hour for me isn’t enough to warm up for an effective bouldering session, but I’m mainly training for routes anyway, and 3 x 15 minutes ARC with five minute rests fitted nicely.
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Assume you have a season pass, £6 for an hour at our local wall would get a bit expensive!
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Most of my sessions are 1-hour. Personally, I think most people waste loads of time 'warming up' and could have a more time-efficient warm up. If you're holding onto jugs you're wasting valuable time IMO. The benefits to short sessions are you always finish strong and need very little time to recover. I've had really good campus sessions 3rd day on. And yes, you need to buy a season pass to a wall so you don't think twice about a short session.
TTT - you need to get your FB up at home somewhere where you'll use it. Either that or get a road bike :P
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Most of my sessions are 1-hour. Personally, I think most people waste loads of time 'warming up' and could have a more time-efficient warm up. If you're holding onto jugs you're wasting valuable time IMO. The benefits to short sessions are you always finish strong and need very little time to recover. I've had really good campus sessions 3rd day on. And yes, you need to buy a season pass to a wall so you don't think twice about a short session.
christ, what age are you? it takes me well over an hour before i stop creaking and start pulling, was a different story 10 years ago.
maybe I'm just old before my time
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I'm the same. Unless I have a reasonable warmup I don't climb well, ache the next day and always seem to carry niggles and tweaks afterwards.
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I'm 40 in January.
I reckon I'm less creaky now than I was 10 years ago, I put that mainly down to FBing fairly regularly, but also not thrashing/doing long sessions i.e. I very rarely try hard when I'm starting to get tired.
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And yes, you need to buy a season pass to a wall so you don't think twice about a short session.
when the Works and my eldest were both WIPs I paid for the reduced year pass reasoning lots of short sessions would add up, think it ended up costing me about £20/session once she was born.
TTT - you need to get your FB up at home somewhere where you'll use it. Either that or get a road bike :P
This is the way it goes, I've got a bike and a turbo trainer I'm looking to sell if you can't find anywhere for the board 3t :jab:
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I think having a baby is such a big change on every level and climbing is no different. I guess you just have to find a new way that works for you, rather than getting frustrated that you can't do what you did before. like someone else said I train mostly at home now and am arguably stronger than I was pre baby (he is 3 next yr so it wasn't instant for me).
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I'm 40 in January.
I reckon I'm less creaky now than I was 10 years ago, I put that mainly down to FBing fairly regularly, but also not thrashing/doing long sessions i.e. I very rarely try hard when I'm starting to get tired.
hehe, I'm 40 next week, so can't really complain.
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Most of my sessions are 1-hour. Personally, I think most people waste loads of time 'warming up' and could have a more time-efficient warm up. If you're holding onto jugs you're wasting valuable time IMO. The benefits to short sessions are you always finish strong and need very little time to recover. I've had really good campus sessions 3rd day on. And yes, you need to buy a season pass to a wall so you don't think twice about a short session.
TTT - you need to get your FB up at home somewhere where you'll use it. Either that or get a road bike :P
You're a fucking anomaly on the warmup front though T_B. Personally I've tried shortcutting to a quicker warmup before, but it inevitably ends in either getting pumped the first time you try to link any moves, tweaking something, or some other weird thing. I had a quick warmup a year ago at Sabots, pulled on to try Salle Gosse and gave myself a weird fullarm pump thing that took 4 days to fully subside. Generally speaking, I find rushing the warmup more often than not is a false economy. I'm backing this logic up in the knowledge that broadly speaking I don't tend to get injured.
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Mon: Treadmill
Tues: Treadmill and hangboard
Wed: Hangboard - 3/3/3 protocol and max hangs
Thurs: Hangboard - 5/3/1 protocol
Fri: Treadmill
Sat: Rest day
Sun: Hangboard - 5/3/1 and bouldering. A few sevens ticked.
..ish. I think that about covers the week.
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Toby, Nice work on the sendage :)
M- A little weights and bouldering in the gym - Shoulder felt terrible.
T-Work
W-More Work
T-Even More Work
F-Never ending work
S-Gym with Wife, Shoulder still felt horrible
S-Work
Long week of work trying to get new business going. Look slike I'll be take the next 3 weeks off, then gently coming back to see if I can get the shoulder sorted out.
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STG: Re-hab bicep tendon. Moderate drytooling training whilst bicep heals. Build chain resilience.
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (this winter), 8b+ (by next summer)
LTG: 8c (within 2 years)
M. TRX and KB workout, good beasting!
T. Curls 3x15 (7kg), eccentric lowers 3x15(12kg), neck strengthening.
W. Manod drytool crag: 4 pitches of M7, not as much as I'd hoped to do but feeling lackadaisical.
T.
F. Curls 3x15 (7kg), neck strengthening.
S.
S. Curls 3x15 (7kg), Core & mobility sesh, 3 min plank
Hoped to get a DT sesh in on weekend to gauge my level but no partners; so still undecided what to do this winter. Lack of psych and focus due to other stuff.
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STG: Strength work: fingerboard or bouldering, twice a week.
Don’t get injured. Rehab. finger.
MTG: E5 OS and 7b RP by end of year?
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7b+ RP.
M: Shoulder exercises in Athens airport. Flight delayed 5 hours due to fog. Home at 3.30am.
T: Tired. Fingerboard micro-session: warm-up on bar and big slots.
W: Still tired. Shoulder exercises
T: Westway. Bouldering to V2. Short session but completely battered.
F: Shoulder exercises. Teaching the lad to swim.
S: Shoulder exercises
S: Westway: 10 x routes to 6a+. R middle finger tweaky again. Teaching the lad to swim.
Enjoying teaching the lad to swim but hate pools and feel exhausted after an hour in the water; copious food and sleep required to recover. Not good for other training. Had a bit of a moment when I realise I’m eligible for old person’s discount and free swimming in the morning. Roll on the senior citizens travel card!
Not feeling very syked, body not working very well, weight increasing... it’s that time of year. MTGs feel way off right now. Plan: do something, anything...
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One year this week since I injured my knee. 2 weeks since the NHS physio signed me off and said I could sensibly climb again (two and half months since I started climbing again, tentatively).
STG: Continue Knee Rehab, 7A (End of the year), lots of grit bouldering.
MTG: 7B (April), 8a (September); Picos next summer?
LTG: 8c
M:
T: Boulder (Tor), Scared on dynamic moves on Saline Drip and Little Extra Starts, CB, Split Squat (6 x 17kg), Row, AnCap
W: ACap
T:FB, CB, Pull (5 x 25kg), ACap
F:
S: FB. Went out early afternoon. Rained within 15 minutes. Should have gone further South apparently. Works. CB.
S:
Rain made it hard to get out. Knee feeling stronger but can't really heel hook yet. Better on high foots.
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STG: 7B. More grit sessions.
MTG: Don't get broken.
Mon: Very quick session doing 4x4s.
Tue: Run 5km.
Wed: TCA, another very brief session. High power stuff, long rests.
Thu: Run 5km.
Fri: Planned to hit Snuff Mills again, but pissing it down so another brief pootle at TCA.
Sat: Nowt.
Sun: Fingerboard repeaters and some low-level added weight.
A sort-of-rest week as elbow feeling really tweaky. Thankfully much better now as long as I remember to stretch during the day.
Seconding all the previous about babies and climbing, particularly fitting micro sessions around the madness. I got well into fingerboarding at silly hours in the morning; given I was being woken up anyway I figured at least I'd feel like I was doing something positive. I think it's led to significant gains over the last year or so, plus got nappy change time down to less that 3 mins ;)
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Light week due to lack of time and lower back pain
M - quick workout: overhead walk, push ups, ab-wheel and some finishers
T - good strenght session on the board
W - ring rows, push ups, ab-wheel, bridge, handstands
T - nothing
F - another quick workout: some pull ups, ab.wheel and squats
S - S On Saturday I wake with lower back pain so I didn't climb in the weekend
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Mon.Turbo 1hr.
Tue. Board working a few new things.
Wed. Turbo 1 hr.
Thu. Board hardish mirror session.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board circuit of 6 problems 4 times each after warming up. Turbo 1 hr.
Sun. Leeds wall tired from yesterday. Didn't get up anything startling did quite alot of climbing though.
Eating and drinking far too much.
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Thanks all for the psyche / ideas - all good ideas.
I'm actually going to sell my BM2000 as I think it's a level beyond what I need right now, and replace with one of the thin Crusher ones which a) are more suitable for what I need and b) is probably more likely to be allowed to be put up in the kitchen.
I don't think I fall into the "crack your knuckles and get on with it" TB school of training, in fact every time I do hangs with a 90 degree bend I can feel my elbows screaming so will just have to take it easy.
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...
F bouldering Kraft Mountain, did a nice circuit V4
S bouldering Joshua tree. Did yabo roof at V3, (Joshua tree v3 = UK V4+/5?!?)
S rest
I really suck at bouldering and often don't have the drive to try hard. I want to change this but I'm struggling!
Seems I climb routes at my max boulder grade!
Ps USA bouldering grades are nails.... Either we are too soft or they are too harsh!
I was in J-Tree saturday as well - nice weather!
I dunno if US bouldering grades are too harsh - I think they're pretty fair on the whole - though I do think there are some traditional sandbags in the V2-5 range that should probably be bumped up, but never will be... The same could be said of font as well...
BTW, I do agree that the grades at the lower end in Kraft are quite stiff.
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Bm1k is a great board 3T. Much prefer it to my 2k...
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STG - Get rid of my finger problems
MTG - Get back to training regularly and properly without being injured
LTG - Would be nice to climb some 8A stuff or beyond next year when I move in Europe
Basically, I have just been training on my board for the past 8 months or so, and crimping hard constantly. I cut loose on some tiny crimps a couple weeks back, after a session of only trying my crimp ladder project, I stopped soon after because my index finger hurt on the DIP joint, it hurt if I tried to pretend half crimp on some plastic edges, and hurt if pushed in certain directions. I stopped climbing for a week and iced fairly regularly, it stopped hurting, then I decided in my infinite wisdom to get back to climbing with an hour of campusing with friends on my board with no warmup, going to one arm a doorframe with full crimp, then going to climb at a social competition.
Of course, that made my right middle finger hurt on the DIP joint. I have only climbed 2-3 times each week in the week and a bit since that, and while I was resting after that happened all my middle fingers', index fingers', and slightly my ring fingers' DIP and PIP joints now hurt if prodded. They don't hurt while climbing (I now only half crimp holds, and have added some slopers on my board and have been mainly focusing on those, as well as warming up much more.) At the start, they hurt if I tried to clench my hand into a fist, but I have been constantly prodding them and clenching my fist, to the point where it doesn't hurt at all, and I can push my fingers fairly deep into my palm until I feel pain. And of course, the PIP joint is swollen on the middle fingers. It has been that way for quite a while though, and I have had times in the past when I have noticed that my joints hurt if prodded hard, so I think it is just now that it has really been noticed.
Any ideas on how I should train around these finger injuries? For the next couple weeks I won't be climbing much anyway because of other commitments, and there will be a week when I won't climb at all for certain. I have read about how it isn't healthy to stop climbing, so maybe just climb twice a week or so until the fingers start having to pain, then start climbing again?
Is it safe to climb regularly (4 times a week on my board), while my fingers feel pain if prodded, even though they don't hurt while climbing? Quite worried really, I would love to be training hard right now, and the next 5 months or so will be prime time for hard training, but this might put a stop to it. Lately I have just been doing rings and upper body strength stuff, but I already miss my regular board sessions. Thanks for any advice. If it gets much worse (it seems to be improving in some ways lately though) I will pay for a video call with a finger physio, but it would be great to fix it through clever resting and such.
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Bm1k is a great board 3T. Much prefer it to my 2k...
And:
(might swap out the BM1000 for a 2000).
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I stopped climbing for a week and iced fairly regularly, it stopped hurting,
If it worked last time do this again
I have only climbed 2-3 times each week in the week and a bit since that, and while I was resting after that happened all my middle fingers', index fingers', and slightly my ring fingers' DIP and PIP joints now hurt if prodded.
Mine pretty much hurt all the time in places if prodded. I think it is a good/neutral thing to massage fingers. Whether that gets blood flow going or breaks down scar tissue or is psychosomatic I don't know. What I do know is that prodding and worrying does have an effect even if you are aren't a certified hypochondriac like Three Nine. One of the most beneficial things for me seeing Steve Hodgson at Hallamshire Physio is getting reassurance. There is listening to your body (which can lie to you) and there is also mind games. No one can give you exact advice on how safe it is for you to climb 4x a week on your board because it depends how hard you pull and how resilient your tendons are now. Personally I would be going back on the board after this length of time if you can trust yourself to warm up properly, go steady and build up sessions gradually, stop strong and stopping immediately if I felt pain. I would probably ice bath your hand after (if I wasn't so indolent). I would also have seen the Physio several times which sounds like you havent. :spank:
ps Dont listen to me - get that Dave MacLeod book - it is meant to be good (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,25664.msg482971.html#msg482971)
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Any ideas on how I should train around these finger injuries?
- If you've got that many joints feeling stiff and sore I doubt that you're injured, you've just got stiff and sore finger joints, as happens to many people. Take it easy, just drag stuff for a week or two, don't do fingery things, ice after each session and normally it'll go away fine..
- If you prod any joint hard it usually hurts, especially if they're a little bit aggro from doing too much crimping/twisting/whatever.
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I'm actually going to sell my BM2000 as I think it's a level beyond what I need right now,
I maybe able to help with this; I'll PM you!
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Basically, I have just been training on my board for the past 8 months or so, and crimping hard constantly. ... all my middle fingers', index fingers', and slightly my ring fingers' DIP and PIP joints now hurt if prodded.
I'd be amazed if your fingers didn't feel a bit tender after that kind of punishment! As others have said, this is a normal response to that kind of unvarying training. Ice and massage will help the immediate issue a little but, Dave Mac would rightly emphasise, you've got to address the underlying issues. In this instance, and with only your posts here to go on, it would appear that you could use more variety in your training. See these aches as a helpful sign - an amber light - to take it easy for a little bit. You could easily be reporting a more significant injury.
Do something different! You don't necessarily have to rest completely but climb slabs, climb juggy overhangs, parkour around the local playground, monkey about on the rings, crank out some pull-ups, go trad. climbing, do some aerocap, anything to give your battered finger joints a bit of variety and respite.
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STG - Get rid of my finger problems
In addition to everyone else's advice, I'd recommend regular forearm massage (concentrate of the most sensitive bits) & forearm/ shoulder stretching, particularly straight after you climb.
Like you I was plagued by constant/ recurring DIP/ PIP joint pain and limited pain-free finger movement for a long time and assumed I'd fucked my fingers for life. When I saw a good climbing physio he was unconcerned by the fingers themselves (as Shark says it can be very reassuring) but demonstrated how tight my whole wrists/ arms/ shoulders chain was and explained why it was leading to finger pain. Turned out the elbow pain I'd get periodically and the wrist tweaks I was prone to had the same root cause.
A year of maintainance stretching on I haven't been injured once. Most importantly I feel like I understand what's happening with my body, when I need to lay off the crimping, where I could do with stretching more etc.
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Basically, I have just been training on my board for the past 8 months or so, and crimping hard constantly. ... all my middle fingers', index fingers', and slightly my ring fingers' DIP and PIP joints now hurt if prodded.
I'd be amazed if your fingers didn't feel a bit tender after that kind of punishment! As others have said, this is a normal response to that kind of unvarying training. Ice and massage will help the immediate issue a little but, Dave Mac would rightly emphasise, you've got to address the underlying issues. In this instance, and with only your posts here to go on, it would appear that you could use more variety in your training. See these aches as a helpful sign - an amber light - to take it easy for a little bit. You could easily be reporting a more significant injury.
:-\ Maybe but Gaskins only trained on his board and never got injured - not ever never
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Basically, I have just been training on my board for the past 8 months or so, and crimping hard constantly
Gaskins only trained on his board and never got injured - not ever never
Did Gaskins only ever crimp on his board? I have PIP problems if I crimp too much (which folk told me I would years back) but can still manage to open-hand stuff. Surely not crimping hard constantly would be worth trying. Have open-hand only sessions, might mean dropping grades but it'll be worth it in the long run.
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I was in J-Tree saturday as well - nice weather!
I dunno if US bouldering grades are too harsh - I think they're pretty fair on the whole - though I do think there are some traditional sandbags in the V2-5 range that should probably be bumped up, but never will be... The same could be said of font as well...
BTW, I do agree that the grades at the lower end in Kraft are quite stiff.
Nice! What did you get up to there?
Never climbed in font and I hear it is totally nails but...
I've always considered a V1 to be about as hard as the crux on an E1/2 (5.9/5.10), whereas here, climbers and guidebooks seem to consider V1 around 5.11a/b so E3/4
What a place though! Enjoying the sandbags actually - I did a 5.7 yesterday everyone said was solid 10b! Then I did 11b, but couldn't get off the ground on a 5.9 haha
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Thanks heaps for the suggestions. I live in a place where there aren't any gyms around, but hopefully soon I will make more trips down to a gym, so that instead of climbing on the board 4 times a week it would be three times. I do a fair bit of rings and bar exercises, but I usually do those on rest days from climbing. No physio anywhere here either, apart from an online one. I'll just keep on climbing once or twice a week on the board and slowly increase volume, and keep on icing after every session (which I have been doing). No more crimping for a long time either, slopers are good fun anyway. Next year should be better anyway, since I will be training at a proper gym that one can warm up at and has slabs and less steep sections.
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:-\ Maybe but Gaskins only trained on his board and never got injured - not ever never
Some people never get injured, they are not a good guide for the rest of us!
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Thanks heaps for the suggestions. I live in a place where there aren't any gyms around, but hopefully soon I will make more trips down to a gym, so that instead of climbing on the board 4 times a week it would be three times. I do a fair bit of rings and bar exercises, but I usually do those on rest days from climbing. No physio anywhere here either, apart from an online one. I'll just keep on climbing once or twice a week on the board and slowly increase volume, and keep on icing after every session (which I have been doing). No more crimping for a long time either, slopers are good fun anyway. Next year should be better anyway, since I will be training at a proper gym that one can warm up at and has slabs and less steep sections.
I have creaky stiff PIP joints loads, and ive just learnt its a sign of having used my fingers a bit. I dont have any real finger injuries atm (touch wood), but they all hurt if I poke them hard - that's just cos theyve got nerves and shit and not much fat to protect them.
Plus Shark, the reason Pako cant go to the physio 5 times a month or whatever is, i suspect, perhaps cos he's not a frickin millionaire fat cat rich cunt like you :greed: :greed: :greed:
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Plus Shark, the reason Pako cant go to the physio 5 times a month or whatever is, i suspect, perhaps cos he's not a frickin millionaire fat cat rich cunt like you :greed: :greed: :greed:
I'm offended that you think I'm fat
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only trained on his board and never got injured - not ever never
sounds too good to be true
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only trained on his board and never got injured - not ever never
sounds too good to be true
Meow
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it's not going well is it?
being called fat and a liar on the same day
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;)
obviously
x
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;)
obviously
x
I know ;)
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STG: any indoor V7, if I can get outside: 7B
MTG: indoor V8, outdoor 7B+
LTG: outdoor 7C
Another good week although may need to start listening to the fingers a bit more as I hammered them this week.
M - good session at BUK with r-man, 2.5hrs, ticked off another 3xV5s and a V6 so the grade pyramid is starting to fill out
T - an hour on the 40 board, standard circuit, quite tired
W - day off, fingers aching
T - good session on the board, 1hr
F - 1hr on the board, endurance circuit, 15 moves laps
S - quite tired but another good hour on the board working power projects
S - nowt - up to Scotland with work drinking whisky until Tuesday...
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STG: any indoor V7
Easily achieved if you climb elsewhere than BUK!
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Thanks all for the psyche / ideas - all good ideas.
I'm actually going to sell my BM2000 as I think it's a level beyond what I need right now, and replace with one of the thin Crusher ones which a) are more suitable for what I need and b) is probably more likely to be allowed to be put up in the kitchen.
I don't think I fall into the "crack your knuckles and get on with it" TB school of training, in fact every time I do hangs with a 90 degree bend I can feel my elbows screaming so will just have to take it easy.
I have the thin crusher one in the kitchen - find it tougher to do a routine on than the 2000. My housemate who is pretty strong, finds the same.
Don't do it.
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STG: any indoor V7
Easily achieved if you climb elsewhere than BUK!
Aye but not as satisfying!! Tough new set too by all accounts...