UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: fried on November 01, 2015, 05:28:08 pm
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Strange week.
M - Not working and the weather is looking fantastic, I still wasn't feeling great but no intention of missing days like this. Dropped a couple of paracetamol on the peripherique and headed for Canche aux merciers, still felt out of sorts on my warm-up. I was planning to finish off some more of the blue circuit, but as usual this lasted 2 problems.
Got a bit of a sweat on and started feeling better Flashed the easiest 5C I've ever tried. http://bleau.info/canche/11975.html. Embarassing grading.
Then found myself in front of Jeu des jambes which I've never tried, heel-hooked my way along the traverse really slowly, but fluffed the end. Second go much quicker, then did something bizarre at the end and pulled defeat from the jaws of victory, too tired for a third go, but pretty happy with the tries.
Decided to finish with a go at another low-ball one move slab that I've failed to get off the ground on for years http://bleau.info/canche/3627.html. First go looked promising....finished it in 5 or 6 goes. Very happy. Longest seige of a 6A ever? Climbs surpisingly well.
T/W - Rest
Th - Planned to climb but still coughing, decided to leave it and wait for the weekend.
Fr/ S - Nothing, but feeling back on form.
Su - I had too much time on my hands this week, watched far too many youtube vids, resulting in ridiculously high levels of psyche and over-confidence. Disappointment was bound to follow. Went to Rocher Canon with a far too long hit list of problems to finish or try. Climbed badly at the start (a bit greasy), not feeling confident on anything. Hands glassy.
Took a long time to warm up, then got slapped off lots of stuff that I was looking better on when it was 30° in the summer. Bah.
Time to get back to training.
Weight a little up to 74.9kg. Need to watch that next week.
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Every post I read of yours fried where you maybe haven't climbed as well as you would like, I still always think "that lucky bastard, of all of the places to have a bad session" :D
Mon-Fri: finally getting over the last of the h, f and m.
Sat: wall session. Take it really easy, first session in over two weeks, have to be careful.
Sun: resting
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Yeah, I know. I feel guilty grumbling sometimes :wub:
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STG: redpoint 7a #4
MTG (2015): redpoint 7a+ ... neither of these look realistic now, the good weather must be running out
LTG (2016/2017): Redpoint 7b's with dance-themed names (Sautanz, Brachiation)
M:
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Short bouldering session with M jnr. Focus on roof/big hold/body tension stuff: not my specialist subject.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Ten routes up to 6b. I've had very little motivation for plastic routes lately, but I actually enjoyed this. Which is good because winter is coming and there's no grit around here, so I'm going to have to retreat indoors at some point.
Not yet though.
T: Half an hour mobility, shoulders, core
F:
S: Ötztal. Visited a new (to me) crag, Amberg. :o Hyper technical steep-but-slopey-at-the-same-time granite, combined with ludicrously sandbagged grades, made attempting anything with a larger number attached to it a complete non starter. Was pleased to manage the "6b" I was attempted in only five goes. Great fun though.
S: More Austrian Autumn Fun: excellent bolted multipitch on the Burschlwand, teeshirts in the sun, who needs the Costa Blanca?
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Yeah, I know. I feel guilty grumbling sometimes :wub:
Glad I'm not the only one.... I feel like its a rubbish week if I only get 1 day outdoors.... :oops:
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shite week. Took a few days off any training and then returned to a wall and got shit down. Put it down to poor diet prep and feeling flat but then fuelled up and repeated more flat! Boo hiss. So this weekend went in fuelled again and was very average but hurt my shoulder. Went back today as it felt OK and ticked some I didn't the day before but still not on the top of the wave the previous couple of weeks. Hopefully my coach will sort me Tuesday and get me back on the wagon! Ahh such is life. I put it down to some home life stress and poor diet.
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STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done.
M: Balmoral. Micro-crag. 2nd session on a V8 (Lovers Tiff Left) there, last time was back in Feb. Insanely humid and hot. Got all the moves finally but linking them is very difficult. Swim after.
T: 9 Degrees and St Leonards.
9d: New black circuit (world cup style comp problems V2-V9, lots of run and jump shit). Tried to flash all of them (about 20-25 problems). Flashed most and there was only 4 that I couldn't do that session. Would only have max 5 attempts at each.
St Leonards: Usual Tuesday. Ticked all new problems bar hardest 2 (one of them no one has ticked yet and the other only 1 person (v12/13 crusher) and started making new ones straight away. Campus, shoulder work, fingerboard, push ups and some core after. Beast of a day.
W: Rest.
T: St Leonards. Warmed up doing nearly all the new problems (mates getting pissy I'm warming up on his projects haha) then made some up. Some cracking hard moves... Usual campussing, shoulder work, fingerboard, light core and some press ups.
F: Rest!
S: The Lip and The Trenches.
The Lip is a shitty lowball cave with a handful of hard problems that actually climb a lot better than they look (V7, 2xV8, V10, 3xV11 & V12...). Warmed up on one of the 8s (Whats Blue and Green and Red All Over?), out the roof and straight into a slopey mantley top out. Did all of it besides the final top move, grrr... Losing alot of skin so jumped onto the 10 (All The Tables Are Reversed In My Private Universe). Very fun climb and hard! Awesome compression moves, toe hooks, heel hooks and slopey mantle to finish.... Just wish the cave was a metre higher off the ground...
Over the other side of the valley to The Trenches to run a circuit. Did maybe 20 problems, while some mates work on some stuff (their 2nd and 1st times at the crag). Well and truly no skin now....
S: Deep Creek and The Den.
Deep Creek, another micro crag with only 4 problems on the one boulder (V5, V8, V9, V10). Did the V5 in a handful of goes, tough and crimpy with no skin! Then tried the V8 low start. Got all the moves quickly, besides the very first move. Ledge under the cave looked too big for it to be in so was trying without, asked the developer and he got back to me in the arvo saying it was in........ Oh well, back soon I guess.
Down the road to The Den. Had only been here once before to start working Fight Club V10 in the middle of summer and got pretty shut down, not ticking anything at all... Still fucking warm and humid so perfect conditions. Its a massive cave but really likes to seep and drip, so alot of things stay wet even when we haven't had any rain in a while. Tried a V8 traverse on slopers, wet feet so stopped. Got back onto Fight Club, first move is crux. Brutal undercling slap to sloper. I can now pull on better but no where near enough power to slap..... The rest I can do from that one move in... But wet pockets... So jumped back on the V5 warm up that I couldn't do last time............ Still couldn't fucking do it. Got onto the best looking problem here: Kyle's Rule. Only gets V6 but its fucking hard but it does look really cool. Had a few decent goes working out moves, just the last 2 to go and then had a great fall. Called it a day after that and went home.
Stopped by St Leonard's in the evening to drop something off to a friend and did a quick couple laps on campus jugs while waiting for her.
http://vimeo.com/144297550
Lovers Tiff Left crux. Left hand hold is incut but sharp and its a brutal cut on my fingers.
(http://www.thecrag.com/image/photo/00004/modified/775670082.jpg)
All The Tables.... When description says compression, I do compression. Got home and watched a clip of a mate doing it and I was making it alot harder........
(http://www.thecrag.com/image/photo/00004/modified/775669509.jpg)
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Goals, smoales...
M: did 10 pull ups
T: started to get a cold (rest of the family have it, thought I'd avoided it). Ended up in bed.
W: in bed all day, felt tripe
T: Got out of bed eventually, still feeling crap
F: In some act of desperation tried to do some stuff on fingerboard to maintain motivation. Managed 2 sets then stopped
S: Nothing, still not well
S: Snotsville, tried more on fingerboard, managed one set, then had to stop.
Weird week. Can't believe I'm ill again after only just getting rid of the last thing. Somehow some motivation has returned even through it all which feels like a good thing. Can't wait to get outside soon for bouldering or winter sport action, feel like I've missed days and days of clear days.
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STG: Get back into crush mode
MTG: Jason's Roof, Ben's Groove sitter
LTG: 8B
M: Indoors. Easy session, no finger aggravation.
T: Lunch circuit training: big leg session, lots of burpees and jumping squats
W: Worse DOMS of my life. Literally struggling to walk, stairs were out of the question.
T: DOMS. Sacked off indoor climbing as it wouldn't have been possible. Core and fingerboarding instead.
F: lesser DOMS. Friend's wedding, danced somewhat.
S: Widdop. To try the elusive Fight on the Black 7B. Completely dry apart from the top break which turned out to be green and slimy. Gutted as the bottom moves felt piss.
S: Widdop. Blue skies following a rainless night. Still filthy and un-cleanable/climbable. I don't think I have ever found it in good nick and with acceptable connies. It's not even that hard. FotB 6 - Me 0. :boohoo:
Since all the ferns are pretty much dead now, I feel like I'm just ticking over waiting for Caley to come into condition.
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I've had that a couple of times with FotB (wet break) then come back when it's dry and been shut down by the bottom :D I think it needs a good few dry and windy days to de spooge the break (N facing iirc).
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A long time since I've posted on the training front but I've been getting back into it in The last few weeks and I'm starting to feel psyched for the plastic again.
STG: any indoor V7, if I can get outside: 7B
MTG: indoor V8, outdoor 7B+
LTG: outdoor 7C
M - good session at BUK with R-man and Sian, mostly pottered although I managed a V6 fairly quickly, feeling ok with all the board work although only have around 20-30 mins after warming up before power starts to wane a little so I need to be focussed.
T - 1 hour on the board, New problems
W - 1 hour on the board, circuit and lock offs
T - 1 hour on the board, New problems and projects
F - night off
S - 1.5 hours on the board, circuit
S - 30 mins on the board, short sesh
Managing to get on the board for frequent short sessions really fits in with work and family so getting 7 hours training in a week with little impact is amazing.
3rd week now and I'm starting to feel fitter, even though I'm eating crap and doing virtually no cardio...
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I've had that a couple of times with FotB (wet break) then come back when it's dry and been shut down by the bottom :D I think it needs a good few dry and windy days to de spooge the break (N facing iirc).
It's such a tease. Widdop's close to my parents house, so I only ever go when I'm visiting them and have the chance to nip out for a few hours. So far this has yet to coincide with good conditions.
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Had an indulgent week off ahead of a new training block starting this week.
58kg this morning, up 2kg in 10 days :weakbench:
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STG - lose 3/4 stone
MTG - get stronger
LTG - not get injured
M- hardish weights and core session
T - nothing much, a light bit of theraband
W - wall session about 2 hours. Managed my aim for the evening in the first 15 minutes, so was at a bit of a loss. Did a few things I've gone before and then put some effort in on a few of the harder things, made some minor progress on one, but lacked much motivation
T - CV for about 45 mins
F - Nothing
S - Nothing
S - 15 miles on bike in evening. Nice clear night, but kept stopping as back derailleur was being shit. Spotted owl on the road, cool.
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STG- Extremes/ 7s on grit this season. Wall of Horrors before it's too hot again.
MTG- 7b/+ in 2016
LTG- 8a
M-Sa- Nothing. Walked a bit on Saturday
Su- Almscliff. Had been staying in Newcastle at the weekend but conensation-fest stupidly warm temps (people -not even geordies- were eating on the tables outside restaurants on Saturday night!) made me reluctant to drive up into the county and climb on damp rock so stopped at the Cliff on the way back. Choice of either too hot or soaking wet followed by extra-thick fog as soon as it cooled down. Did some easy stuff.
Another more-or-less powerfree week. Working on photo/ film stuff weeknights meant I didn't make it to the wall.
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STG: Get back to where I was before fatherhood
LTG: Font 7b
M: Nowt, drivign back from Scotland
T: Nowt.
W: Gym on lunch - 500m row @ sub 7min 2k pace then: 10 x 5 bodyweight deadlifts, 10 x 5 50% bodyweight shoulder press, 10 x 5 strict pushups. Battered.
T: Depot after work - bit of a half-arsed session doing everything but the final move of stuff, kinda frustrating.
F: Nowt.
S: Was going out but last-minute had my pass revoked (or rather I handed it back in the interests of a quiet life). Sound like a good day to miss out on to be honest.
S: Nowt much - went to the farm shop and looked at animals and ate ice cream with Una.
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85.3Kg
M -
T - Max hangs. 1 x 25Kg, 3 x 30Kg front 3, 1 x 20Kg, 3 x 25Kg half crimp. Managed 4 x 6 or 7 seconds middle 2 with 10Kg.
W - School p.m. 1-5-8 x 3 on right, 1-4-7 multiple on left. 1-3-2-4-3-5 x 3 double-handed. 50deg board v close twice on Mr Blobby. Finished with 2 goes on pink, best go doing 28 moves.
T -
F - 1 x 25Kg, middle 3, 3 x 30Kg middle 3. 1 x 20Kg half crimp, 3 x 25Kg half crimp, 1 x 7 secs 8Kg middle 2, 2 x 10 secs 8Kg, 1 x 7 secs 9Kg. P.M. had meant to do a bouldering session but pulled my back picking a hat up off the floor.
S -
S - Back felt OK so went to School p.m. Tweaked it after warm up so did some deadhangs on various holds.
Finished Steve Maisch 5wk max hangs block. Went from being able to hold middle two bottom rung on BM with no weight for 10 secs to 8Kg. V unhealthy w/e hence disappointing weigh in. Need to take it easy on back for a few days.
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STG: Get back to where I was before fatherhood
LTG: Font 7b
M: Nowt, drivign back from Scotland
T: Nowt.
W: Gym on lunch - 500m row @ sub 7min 2k pace then: 10 x 5 bodyweight deadlifts, 10 x 5 50% bodyweight shoulder press, 10 x 5 strict pushups. Battered.
T: Depot after work - bit of a half-arsed session doing everything but the final move of stuff, kinda frustrating.
F: Nowt.
S: Was going out but last-minute had my pass revoked (or rather I handed it back in the interests of a quiet life). Sound like a good day to miss out on to be honest.
S: Nowt much - went to the farm shop and looked at animals and ate ice cream with Una.
No idea why that went tiny-text on me there.
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MTG: Weight to 66.6kg. The weight of the beast :D Which also translates to 10.5 stone.. Anyway I found the number amusing and it seemed appropriate as a goal. Seeing as I don't have any...
M: Knackered from Sunday - rest.
Tu: Work. Football in evening (watching not playing) Extra time, Penalties, Victory...
We: Work -
Th: Logport Wall for a lunchtime session. Really good - full two hours - felt good.
Fr: Large lunch then off to Buckstones to try PiaP etc... campussed better - but felt like lead and was really really tired. Felt crap all evening - in bed by 9,,,
Sa: Work. Lots of driving - long day.
Su: Only had the opportunity for a quick morning session as MrsTT wanted to spend some time with me (god knows why... ;) ) So off to Brownstones for about 9:30, where it was poking above the clag. Tops off weather - roasting. Didnt even look at Hanks (too warm) but clunkily warmed up and did Boopers (6B) and Boopers SS (7A) that have been on the list for a while. Found a nice way to do the sit too. Pissed about on Dezertion and went home.
Fairly crap week really... never mind - them's the breaks... feels a bit like its neither Lime season (my enthusiasm for the white stuff has faded) nor Grit season (its way too warm still) ~ and I'm caught in between. Lets have a few good frosts and sort it out...
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STG: Heaven in your Hands
MTG: FA projects; Two Squirrels; Crystal Method; Secret Seventh; Terry; Rogue (Bat Buttress)
LTG: 8A (possibly something like Vogue at Bat Buttress)
M:
T: Board session. Not particularly long and didn't feel very useful.
W:
T
F
S: Went for a wander around St Ives. Altar circuit looks nice for a lantern session.
S: Sigsworth Crags. Grim conditions so couldn't pull onto the projects but did a new traverse at 6C or so with Clarkey
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well I made a mess of that, bear with me.....
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Lets have a few good frosts and sort it out...
Frost you say? coming home from Burbage at midday. On the plus side I did see a couple of hundred geese leaving the building
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/02/e6ae8afe041b6a643d129f970d822744.jpg)
Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk
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11.0 - 11.1
Half term
M. Back above 11stone after weekend excesses. :-( Up with Tommy to Malham so he could try Raindogs. Steve came along. Not bothered about Oak and even forgot camera. Met Paul and Keith there. Forecast to be cloudy all day but blue sky and dazzling. Short window with clocks going back of Oak in shade for 2/3 hours only. Cons x 3. Put on a brand new pair of Whites. First go on Oak foot slippage. Shaky second go but got fumble horn. Went for a walk round Cove while Steve belayed Tommy. Third go fudged through to horn. Distracting kids shouting at each other by Beck so power screamed way onwards to drown them out. Only just held sloper. Got three moves into top traverse before failure. Good to get back up to top traverse (last time was 9th Oct). Tips hurt. Not enough light for a decent rest for another proper go but did it in sections
T.
W.
T.11.0 Filthy weather. The Beck was a torrent but the Oak was dry. If further proof was needed that it was grim weather - Teaboy was there. 4 x Consenting. Really felt the flow on last go. First RP got to top traverse but fingers greased off a gaston (just about as I was coming off anyway) 2 further abortive RPs with lowish foot slippages. Then a good redpoint but didnt quite get fingers in well enough to hold on in undercut at start of upper traverse Went for a walk Last decent redpoint foot slipped off setting up for throw. Another redpoint but no go. Last tie on did some links on upper section in failing light. Tommy did well on Raindogs despite the traffic. Linked from undercutby second bolt to top on top rope. Few times people offred to belay me which was touching although I am 100% happy be belayed by Tommy. Got some Oak love back
F. Felt wiped - back sore
S.
S. Was informed Oak was soaked on saturday so drank night before. Misty on way up but a furnace when we got there (25 deg?) Oak had a few key holds wet but had dried back considerably since day before. Hung around a lot. Had a few not-very-good goes at links on upper section when sun went off it. Tommy got same good progress on Raindogs putting in a couple of redpoints despite conditions We were last to leave as usual
Heading back on weds when Oak should be dried out and cloudy conditions forecast. Been getting my thoughts together thinking how best to prepare / train for onsighting in Chulilla in January and the Oak in Feb/Mar
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STG - board projects.
Mon - board climbing. Climbed another project! It only took me four goes. After three years of training, that is. Incredible sensation feeling so solid in the previously precarious moves. This is the real thing. Snatch finisher x3; weights complex x1. Destroyed.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board climbing. Little volume, high intensity. Fingery. 2 mins dumbbell complex, 15 power cleans (speed) x2. Tired.
Thu - board climbing. I didn't think I was going to make it after previous session. Fingers seemed tired but worked well. Tried isolation moves of the hardest projects on my board, some little progress but still very hard. I have to understand exactly if they are hard and not doable by me, or hard and doable, even though just once by accident. Tricky, don't want to waste my time on single stop-moves. Abs finisher, overhead carry, shoulder carry x2. Brutal.
Fri - rest.
Sat - board climbing. Managed to do the crux move of two projects for the first time in two years trying. There's no way I can do it on redpoint. Added one hold to make one of them less precarious but more physical, and took off one hold for the start to make it harder. 8a+/b. Dumbbell complex (speed), snatch high pulls x2. Brilliant session. Well promising for the projects.
Sun - board climbing. Took some time to find a footholds sequence for the project, really hard. Had one good go then a few ones with little power left in the guns. First two moves now are hard on their own. Dammit.
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Been getting my thoughts together thinking how best to prepare / train for onsighting in Chulilla in January and something other than the Oak in Feb/Mar because it's going down on Wednesday. It will happen oh yes it will happen
Bit of PMA for you! ;)
Good luck
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Been getting my thoughts together thinking how best to prepare / train for onsighting in Chulilla in January and something other than the Oak in Feb/Mar because it's going down on Wednesday. It will happen oh yes it will happen
Bit of PMA for you! ;)
Good luck
This is the one Simon, dig deep. :strongbench:
"throw your heart over the bar and the rest will follow"
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Been getting my thoughts together thinking how best to prepare / train for onsighting in Chulilla in January and something other than the Oak in Feb/Mar because it's going down on Wednesday. It will happen oh yes it will happen
Bit of PMA for you! ;)
Good luck
Been getting my thoughts together thinking how best to prepare / train for onsighting in Chulilla in January and something other than the Oak in Feb/Mar because it's going down on Wednesday. It will happen oh yes it will happen
Bit of PMA for you! ;)
Good luck
This is the one Simon, dig deep. :strongbench:
"throw your heart over the bar and the rest will follow"
Cheers Guys. Got to be realistic though. Been at it since the end of August and it is hard to sustain a level for so long and I'm off the pace physically and mentally now. With a combination of good conditions and application it could still go down before it craps out but it would be a lucky redpoint if I did. It was encouraging and motivating to get to the top traverse twice on thursday but I was spent by the time I got there - and for the next two days. The only thing I can guarantee is I will try my hardest.
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Since the pressure's off now, you're not expecting to do if, you might smash it in unexpected style. Nothing to lose at this point.
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Been getting my thoughts together thinking how best to prepare / train for onsighting in Chulilla in January and something other than the Oak in Feb/Mar because it's going down on Wednesday. It will happen oh yes it will happen
Bit of PMA for you! ;)
Good luck
This is the one Simon, dig deep. :strongbench:
"throw your heart over the bar and the rest will follow"
Cheers Guys. Got to be realistic though. Been at it since the end of August and it is hard to sustain a level for so long and I'm off the pace physically and mentally now. With a combination of good conditions and application it could still go down before it craps out but it would be a lucky redpoint if I did. It was encouraging and motivating to get to the top traverse twice on thursday but I was spent by the time I got there - and for the next two days. The only thing I can guarantee is I will try my hardest.
I'm quite curious about this. Obviously it's very mentally taxing having a project like this, I was just wondering what your general thoughts are as you're heading to the crag.
Is it a case of heading up there thinking "today's the day, I've going to absolutely crush it" or is it more casual and just putting in a days work?
I've had varying success with heading to a project convinced I'll crush it and alternatively, casually deciding to give a project a go since I'm there and it's there on a particular day. I think the latter tends to work more in my favour, but I don't suppose you often find yourself at Malham not expecting to get on the Oak.
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I'm quite curious about this. Obviously it's very mentally taxing having a project like this, I was just wondering what your general thoughts are as you're heading to the crag.
Is it a case of heading up there thinking "today's the day, I've going to absolutely crush it" or is it more casual and just putting in a days work?
I've had varying success with heading to a project convinced I'll crush it and alternatively, casually deciding to give a project a go since I'm there and it's there on a particular day. I think the latter tends to work more in my favour, but I don't suppose you often find yourself at Malham not expecting to get on the Oak.
When I first got the breakthrough of getting to the top traverse 8 weeks ago I was convinced if I got to that point 2 or 3 times more it was in the bag. I've now got to that point 16 times so that belief that it would definitely go down has faded. It surprises me that I cant get enough power back to get through the traverse from the shake at the start - doesn't seem to matter how long or short I stay at the shake - Im neither recovering or getting more tired. Conditions have been fickle, to say the least, too. Generally too warm, humid and midgy. This often means hanging round for hours till the sun goes off the route before even attempting redpoints. What I try to focus on is turning it on and applying myself when I pull on to redpoint putting aside whatever my expectations might or might not be that day.
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it would be a lucky redpoint if I did.
In the words of Gary Player "the more I practice the luckier I get"!
Warm temp will always be a problem IMO. I've found on problems and routes on the coast that as soon as the sun goes off them and the rock starts to cool there is a tiny window between the rock cooling and moisture condensing on it. If it's cooler air temps all day you are in with a better chance. Hope you get them before the rains cone!
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Warm temp will always be a problem IMO. I've found on problems and routes on the coast that as soon as the sun goes off them and the rock starts to cool there is a tiny window between the rock cooling and moisture condensing on it. If it's cooler air temps all day you are in with a better chance. Hope you get them before the rains cone!
Precisely. That window is really small now as with the sun being lower it takes longer before it goes off the route nearly 4pm and then its dark not long after that. Forecast is for it to be cloudy all weds but but been let down many times before
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Come on Shark, it will be and feel epic!
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I'm obviously preaching to the choir but one of the reasons I managed my project was due to giving myself more credit. You're doing really well Simon, take joy in the fact that you're feeling strong and get flicky through the moves (like Tommy). One of the best redpoints I had on PP prior to success was a piss-take go shouting in french every move, I fell off partly through laughing. I wouldn't suggest that but it was amazing how much it reminded me about why I was doing what I was doing and to relax and rejoice. I'm really keen on getting a few goes on Raindogs this year so I hope I'm there (with camera!)
Sounds a bit a weird that but I can't really get to my point.
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Sounds a bit a weird that but I can't really get to my point.
Try shouting in french then type again ;)
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Nik has turned up in Margalef... it's now raining UK style. I'd forgotten what rain was like.
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Felt like a solid week.
Mon: Bouldering and Maisch protocol deadhangs
Tues: Sneaky after-work surf
Wed: Bouldering outdoors, followed by Maisch protocol deadhangs
Thurs: 30 fast-ish mins on the treadmill.
Fri: AM weighted CWP protocol assisted one arm deadhangs. Weights at lunch.
Sat: Indoor bouldering. Solid session.
Sun: AM Maisch protocol deadhangs, PM indoor bouldering
Hopefully getting there, given that Swizzy is just over a month away!
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M-Mtn Bike in AM with my Wife. Amazing trail and scenery
T- Morning session at Middle Bliss, Did v0,v2,v4,v5, and v9, then did a bit of wandering and headed to Blitz Boulder and flashed a v9 and a couple easier lines, then to Hate Handles, and did Hate Handles-v10 in about 4 goes, then to teh Golf Course Boulders and dmanaged to send Tiger Woods-v9.
W-Mtn Bike PM. amazing downhill trail
T-Long day out - Started the day at Hope Valley - Warmed up on a v2 and v4, then jumped on Future Present-v9, managed to tick it 2nd go. Was really hoping to get on Welcome to the Future-v11, but the opening traverse was baking in the sun. Headed to the Mountain Beavers next and got on a few classics there-Started off with Wild pack of family Dogs-v6 Flash, then worked and barely snaked a send of Beaver Teeth-v10. Then flashed Beaver Cleaver-v4, Beaver Fever-v7, and Beaverality-v7. Then headed to the Golf Course Boulders and flashed a v4, v8, v2, and v6.
F-Travel All day back to Anchorage
S-
S-Soccer Game
Overall an amzing trip to Tahoe. Makes me want to come back even more. The bouldering was amazing, the Biking was even better, and now that I've checked out a few areas, maybe next time, I'll get stuck into a few harder things.
Now it's back to training for the winter.
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get flicky through the moves (like Tommy).
He's got a great climbing style. That leg swing he uses to get the momentum to go for the layaway by the second is really imaginative. Proud dad
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STG: 7B. More grit sessions.
MTG: Don't get broken.
Mon: Nowt. Shattered from Peak trip on Sunday.
Tue: Max hangs (10s), 20mm +30kg, 16mm +22kg
Wed: TCA, woody session. Despite feeling knackered managed to almost send a project I've been trying for the last 18 months or so. No idea how hard it actually is but it's my anti-style (steep and crimpy), so quite pleased with progress.
Thu: Swim.
Fri: Session on the 6c-7b circuit at TCA. Ticked a few more.
Sat: Bike ride with the boy*
Sun: Max hangs (10s), 20mm +32kg, 16mm +24kg
* well, I did the riding, he made demands for cake from his trailer. I was eventually forced to give in.
Fairly straightforward week, although right elbow is a bit worryingly tweaky now. May have to take it easy for a bit.
Weird week. Can't believe I'm ill again after only just getting rid of the last thing. Somehow some motivation has returned even through it all which feels like a good thing. Can't wait to get outside soon for bouldering or winter sport action, feel like I've missed days and days of clear days.
Shit luck on the bugs, but good to hear you're psyched again Sam!
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get flicky through the moves (like Tommy).
He's got a great climbing style. That leg swing he uses to get the momentum to go for the layaway by the second is really imaginative. Proud dad
Might there be a video? For the tiny minority of us who are not Malham regulars ....
No - he wasn't keen to be filmed but I'll override that when we go on Sunday
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One of the best redpoints I had on PP prior to success was a piss-take go shouting in french every move, I fell off partly through laughing.
On my successful go I sang my way through the easier sections, this wasn't planned, i just said "here we go again" as i set off and carried on into smithers-Jones. Don't know whether this helped control my breathing and keep the blood flowing but it certainly relaxed me and ensured I didn't overgrip. Needed to knuckle down and try hard in the roof before chilling out again in the kneebar, top wall was well practised to attack through the letterbox then got the song going again once in the undercuts and chilled out but was ready to attack again and try really hard the final four moves.
So possibly your point was something about using some kind of strategy to take your mind off how badly want to climb the route which in turn relaxes you and aids performance.
Go for it, shark, nothing to lose, chill out and enjoy it.
Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk
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One of the best redpoints I had on PP prior to success was a piss-take go shouting in french every move, I fell off partly through laughing.
On my successful go I sang my way through the easier sections, this wasn't planned, i just said "here we go again" as i set off and carried on into smithers-Jones. Don't know whether this helped control my breathing and keep the blood flowing but it certainly relaxed me and ensured I didn't overgrip. Needed to knuckle down and try hard in the roof before chilling out again in the kneebar, top wall was well practised to attack through the letterbox then got the song going again once in the undercuts and chilled out but was ready to attack again and try really hard the final four moves.
This song technique is vital for me to redpoint successfully. :look:
I have a hard time getting myself to believe I can climb well and occupying the conscious part of my brain with singing in my head lets the unconscious part do its job unhindered. I put it down partly to my previous life as a musician. The song often chooses itself like yours did but I got a technique this summer of manually getting a specific song going. It lost its potency as I became more familiar with the tune and the act of reciting it as I climbed though- a fresh one popping into my head that I know well enough to not have difficulty remembering but haven't heard or thought of for ages is the most effective.
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STG:
Don’t get injured. :spank: Strength work, fingerboard or bouldering, twice a week.. Rehab. finger.
MTG: E5 OS and 7b RP by end of year.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7b+ RP.
Last week:
M: Westway. 8 x routes to 6b.
T: shoulder/elbow rehab. stuff.
W: Westway. 10 x routes to 6b.
T: Tweak+ to shoulder lifting offspring overhead (more number 8 than swan lake).
F:
S:
S:
This week:
M-S: Athens with family. Epic journey there (plane stopped in Milan for a spare part) and back (4 hours delay so far, and we're still in Athens). Yoghurt, honey, ruins, museums, islands, a mini-riot: the complete Greek experience. Offspring requested next family holiday is in Fontainbleau, a definite YYFY.
Aches much better after a complete week off. Plan: ease back into bouldering and finger boarding in preparation for new year in Chulillia.
Good luck shark.
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You'll send it quickly next year Shark, personally I wouldn't bother spending any more time on it now if you've past your peak - you risk getting injured. A winter's training will see you crushing in March.
STG: Re-hab bicep tendon. Moderate drytooling training whilst bicep heals. Build chain resilience.
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (this winter), 8b+ (by next summer)
LTG: 8c (within 2 years)
M. Massage. Neck strengthening routine - surprisingly good kinetic chain exercises.
T. Core & mobility sesh.
W. Manod drytool crag - first tryout to see how bicep coped, did one v.easy route. V.floss, curls 3x12 (7kg), lowers 3x10 (12kg), neck strengthening.
T. TRX and KB's sesh. Curls 3x10 (7kg)
F. Curls 3x12 (7kg), lowers 3x12 (12kg), neck strengthening.
S. Slate, got rained off after one route. Beacon, did a bunch of 6s, bicep felt ok. Core & mobility sesh.
S. Manod drytool crag. 2 M6+/7, 1 M7. Bicep feeling alright.
Almost time to decide whether or not it's worth committing to the winter plan or whether it's too much for the bicep tendon. If so I'll sack it all off and start training for spring rock. Already 4 weeks behind the original plan for winter. Will decide by end of this week.
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One year this week since I injured my knee. 2 weeks since the NHS physio signed me off and said I could sensibly climb again (two and half months since I started climbing again, tentatively).
STG: Continue Knee Rehab, 7A (End of the year), lots of grit bouldering.
MTG: 7B (April), 8a (September); Picos next summer?
LTG: 8c
M-W, F: Decorating
Thu: Easy Bouldering Session at wall.
Sat: Bouldering Burbage 3 x 6B, some other stuff;
Sun: Bouldering WCJ 6s - too afraid of falling on my knee to top them all out. Tried Kudos 7B which I, unsurprisingly, found hard; FB; OA Press (5 x 17kg), Push Ups, GMs.
Very little but very happy to be able to go out without being too scared of falls. My leg in particular felt very tired at the beginning of the week and benefited from a rest for recovery. Quite psyched. Still unemployed.
Come on Shark.
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Good luck shark!
M. hard session. I did 3 set of isometric weight training and then fb max hangs.
T. light hiit training
W. board session. Tests on a PE circuit (done 18 moves, my record last year during the PE training was 20) and max hangs on the board.
T-F rest
S. weights training and some finishers: ring support holds, squats, plank, L-sit
S. Back to Sasso again to try Shelter. Conditions were very good. This time I did everything well except the final mantle where I fell 3 times. Mantles are my black beast. I need to find a way to train them more.
Mixed feeling this week. I'm very happy for a couple of work related yyfy. I would have been ever more so if I had climbed shelter.
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You'll send it quickly next year Shark, personally I wouldn't bother spending any more time on it now if you've past your peak - you risk getting injured. A winter's training will see you crushing in March.
I sort of agree, but with a small caveat. Make a plan and then stick to it. Decide to continue until X, then reset and come back to it in the spring. It may help your mind focus by having both a deadline and a release.
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You'll send it quickly next year Shark, personally I wouldn't bother spending any more time on it now if you've past your peak - you risk getting injured. A winter's training will see you crushing in March.
I sort of agree, but with a small caveat. Make a plan and then stick to it. Decide to continue until X, then reset and come back to it in the spring. It may help your mind focus by having both a deadline and a release.
Fuck that shit. You've got it on the ropes, Shark. Time to knock the seventh shade of shit out of it :boxing:
Any self doubt you may be experiencing will only add to the legend later. "They say he'd passed his peak, but he nailed the RP and clipped the chains with ease."
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You'll send it quickly next year Shark, personally I wouldn't bother spending any more time on it now if you've past your peak - you risk getting injured. A winter's training will see you crushing in March.
I sort of agree, but with a small caveat. Make a plan and then stick to it. Decide to continue until X, then reset and come back to it in the spring. It may help your mind focus by having both a deadline and a release.
I wouldn't be going except the sharklet is psyched for Raindogs
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Less of this negative self talk, Shark. Consider that self doubt is what's holding you back. If the conditions are right on Wednesday then it's all to play for.
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You'll send it quickly next year Shark, personally I wouldn't bother spending any more time on it now if you've past your peak - you risk getting injured. A winter's training will see you crushing in March.
I sort of agree, but with a small caveat. Make a plan and then stick to it. Decide to continue until X, then reset and come back to it in the spring. It may help your mind focus by having both a deadline and a release.
I wouldn't be going except the sharklet is psyched for Raindogs
Does Sharklet go to school? If he's being homeschooled then please consider that these trips to Malham may not be as educational as they seem.
"What's 2+2?"
"8b+"
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Does Sharklet go to school? If he's being homeschooled then please consider that these trips to Malham may not be as educational as they seem.
He's not going tomorrow though we did discuss how he could bunk off school without Mrs Shark finding out
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Field trip.
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Karst geology lesson. Or something.
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Karst geology lesson. Or something.
Rural economies...
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If it was France it'd be on the curriculum as PE
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yeah along with a module in Aero-cap the cheating bastards
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Sport psychology
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Smash it Shark!
Forearm strain isn't causing an issue as long as I avoid middle 2 on the right hand. Plan for winter is to continue with steep ground bouldering to finally try and address the fact I can't "pull" with my feet. Also, gain some sort of fitness which never seems to happen.
M: Rest
T: Had planned to go to the wall but had bad news in work and put me off doing anything.
W: Rest
T: Gop Cave - Wanted to go somewhere to test out a new floodlight I bought. Turns out it's amazing and pretty much lit up the whole cave, £30 well spent. Got shut down trying E Honda (7B) couldn't do a single move. Repeated Your D Stinks (6C) still felt hard. Bailed to the wall and did a bunch of problems up to 6B+, did a couple of laps on a juggy route on the Piscobloc then did 30 mins Aerocap on the autobelay.
F: Rest
S: Slate - Did "The Burning" (6b) really good, then a very wet "Gadaffi Duck" (6b), felt hard due to being rained on. Bailed to the wall, got completely pumped out of my mind on easy routes, did 6a+, 6b, 6a, 6a (fail!), 5c, 5b. Sweating like crazy and generally climbing like rubbish as I usually do indoors, falling off steep 6a's is a bit of a leveler...
S: Rest
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hi Luke what light did you buy? I'm after one :)
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I'd imagine it's this bad boy:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/ae0183-rechargeable-led-work-light-10w-12-240v/1815d
I bought one yesterday too and had fun illuminating my entire garden and half of my neighbours' gardens too. So bright and wide!
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I bought two of those screwfix jobs yesterday to light up the Manod drytooling quarry/dark hole in the ground. Well good!
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Mon. Nothing wrist a bit sore
Tue. Board worked out some new things did one of them. Wrist ok.
Wed. Turbo 1 hr.
Thu. Board did 2 of the problems I was working on tuesday and repeated Tuesdays problem. Wrist ok again.
Fri. Turbo 1 hour. Grandson to stay.
Sat. Board working new stuff. Bike 75 mins intervals.
Sun. Wrist a bit sore. Family day.
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I bought two of those screwfix jobs yesterday to light up the Manod drytooling quarry/dark hole in the ground. Well good!
Thanks going to order one now ;D ;D
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I'd imagine it's this bad boy:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/ae0183-rechargeable-led-work-light-10w-12-240v/1815d
I bought one yesterday too and had fun illuminating my entire garden and half of my neighbours' gardens too. So bright and wide!
That's the one! Worth every penny!
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Just arrived at catwalk and the Oak's wet
:(
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Balls. Likely top dry again this year?
What about Raindogs for the yoot?
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No idea. Was convinced it wd be dry today. Raindogs is fine
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Back after 2 1/2 yr lay off.... Kids, move, relationships etc. never touched rock, plastic, wood etc in that time. Now weaker than a ill kitten.
Monday - rest
Tuesday - BoulderUK
Wednesday - rest
Thursday - rest
Friday - easy recruitment finger board, 10 secs x 4 sets, hangs, 1/2 crimp... No full crimp yet.
Saturday - (the plan) queens ferry easy bouldering.
Unbelievable how weak I've become. The woodies in the garage so will be used in next few weeks. Just need to recruit some strength first :strongbench:
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He's not going tomorrow though we did discuss how he could bunk off school without Mrs Shark finding out
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This is fucking awesome!!!