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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: slackline on October 06, 2015, 10:01:05 am

Title: [SURVEY] Hold depth, weight and hang duration
Post by: slackline on October 06, 2015, 10:01:05 am
If you use a hangboard and are strong enough to do so with additional weight theres a short survey looking to gather data to crudely look at the relationship between hold depth, added weight and hang duration (http://).

I'll post up results when sufficient data has accrued.



Other previous threads with surveys/summarisations...

Benchmarks for the Elderly Outstanding performances and age (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=25046.100)

UKBenchmarking (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,20900.0.html) (PDF of results (https://www.dropbox.com/s/9qtc8v9daxbv5jz/ukbenchmarking.pdf?dl=0), I may run a tweaked second iteration of this if I've time/inclination)

Benchmarking again (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21734.0.html)
Title: Re: [SURVEY] Hold depth, weight and hang duration
Post by: nai on October 06, 2015, 10:33:00 am
hangboard

Oh dear
Title: Re: [SURVEY] Hold depth, weight and hang duration
Post by: slackline on October 06, 2015, 10:33:29 am
If you use a hangboard fingerboard and are strong enough to do so with additional weight theres a short survey looking to gather data to crudely look at the relationship between hold depth, added weight and hang duration (https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1w2zGedOa-5cE3eDztGpEVz-wYN_CJLpL79fycZY15o8/viewform).

Link now included, apologies for the ineptitude.
Title: Re: [SURVEY] Hold depth, weight and hang duration
Post by: remus on October 06, 2015, 12:14:56 pm
Link to the survey isn't working for me, just goes to about:blank page on chrome.
Title: Re: [SURVEY] Hold depth, weight and hang duration
Post by: slackline on October 06, 2015, 12:20:24 pm
Link to the survey isn't working for me, just goes to about:blank page on chrome.

Yes I forgot to paste it in. When tomtom informed me of this oversight I quoted myself and corrected the link.

Just in case I've confused anyone else through my poor posting skills the following link works...

Fingerboarding - Hold size, weight and hang duration (https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1w2zGedOa-5cE3eDztGpEVz-wYN_CJLpL79fycZY15o8/viewform)

My thanks in advance to those who spend the time recording and submitting data.
Title: Re: [SURVEY] Hold depth, weight and hang duration
Post by: Muenchener on October 06, 2015, 01:39:56 pm
Is this going to be another survey where I come last?  :(
Title: Re: [SURVEY] Hold depth, weight and hang duration
Post by: slackline on October 06, 2015, 01:42:11 pm
Is this going to be another survey where I come last?  :(

Only you will know since no personal information can be entered into the survey.

Its not a competition anyway, but if you find your ego takes a hit andy_e will give you a hug (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26379.msg501795.html#msg501795).
Title: Re: [SURVEY] Hold depth, weight and hang duration
Post by: rodma on October 06, 2015, 02:20:42 pm
this may already be covered, but is this one handed or two handed?
Title: Re: [SURVEY] Hold depth, weight and hang duration
Post by: slackline on October 06, 2015, 02:34:40 pm
this may already be covered, but is this one handed or two handed?

No its not covered, but I intended for responses to be for two handed hangs using all four fingers.  I've updated the blurb at the top of the survey to clarify this, thank you.

Should I ever redo this I'll consider adding in left/right hand options as well as less fingers (but it makes the survey design much more complicated and the current is something I knocked up in 15 minutes this morning because I woke up at stupid o-fucking'clock and couldn't get back to sleep).
Title: Re: [SURVEY] Hold depth, weight and hang duration
Post by: rodma on October 06, 2015, 02:39:32 pm
Cool cool. I was just imagining hanging one handed using the other hand to add weight then realised it was prob two-handed
Title: Re: [SURVEY] Hold depth, weight and hang duration
Post by: fried on October 06, 2015, 06:54:04 pm
Is this going to be another survey where I come last?  :(

Not necessarily.
Title: Re: [SURVEY] Hold depth, weight and hang duration
Post by: jwi on October 08, 2015, 12:14:38 pm
I have some data from an old survey, I'll try to look through it tonight and send you a data frame.
Title: Re: [SURVEY] Hold depth, weight and hang duration
Post by: slackline on October 08, 2015, 02:31:36 pm
That would be great, thanks Jonas.
Title: Re: [SURVEY] Hold depth, weight and hang duration
Post by: Muenchener on October 21, 2015, 08:28:11 pm
and ... ?
Title: Re: [SURVEY] Hold depth, weight and hang duration
Post by: slackline on October 21, 2015, 10:31:42 pm
and ... ?

Only 17 responses so far, would rather have a larger sample size of at least 50 at a bare minimum.

That might reduce further if I can't be arsed converting the entries which were made in Lbs too, despite clearly stating all weights should be in kg.
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