UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: tomtom on September 27, 2015, 04:56:40 pm
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11stn 1lb most of the week...
M: Meeting in NL, food, booze etc...
Tu: Fly back from NL - get in to Manchester about 10am. At Woodwell for 12 :) Start working Not Bad Dave - but then get sucked into working Kiss of the Dragon. Get my sequence sorted out - then run out of crimp power.. retire to working NBD (very different type of problem) and make some progress - manage first move and work out some body position stuff on the main lunge over the lip.
W: Rest
Th: Work... long day... beer in evening
Fr: Decide (at last minute) to stop at Buckstones (Nont Sarahs) on the way back from Hull to Manchester. Small kids group there who watch in some bemusement as I warm up on Pig in Pokey. Work all the moves, but don't feel happy to do it with two thin mats and no spotter. Can't do the final campus (then afterwards find out people campus to a lower hold on the edge, not straight up to the break - I must have been climbing at too many crags with 'rules' recently!). Move on and do the worlds easiest 7A (flash!) which is surely 6B - and a check of UKC shows I am not alone in this view. Even a grade whore like myself can't take the 7 for this! Start having a look at "The Whack/Legz Akimbo 7C" and decide to pull on and have a play. I make progress - considerable progress. Its a one move wonder - pulling on and slapping/moving up for small (but positive) break is the crux. I can pull on, I can move up - but slap under, over, under, over the break - just not connecting the deadpoint. I run out of energy and skin, a but frustrated as sooooo close. One for a cold day...
Sa: rest. Did nothing. Grumped about the house for no real reason...
Su: Woodwell. Manage Kiss of the Dragon after about an hour. Excellent:
https://vimeo.com/140574678
Move back to Not Bad Dave and make some more progress (do first two moves) and some better slapping for the big hold over the lip... the problem is a core destroyer!
A strange, but good week climbing wise. FINALLY shaken off the lurking cold I've had for a couple of weeks (just in time for freshers flu!) and really pleased to get another lime 7B... I guess I am climbing better than ever at the moment, even in a sub optimal week. My close 7C was also a surprise...
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Just been totting up new problems to date (this year)
7A 19
7A+ 7
7B 4
7B+ 1
Very pleased - especially as my back was injured/holding me back until end of March...
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STG:
cross something, anything, off my long and growing list of redpoint projects About bloody time too. :2thumbsup:
MTG (2015): redpoint two one more 7a’s another 7a and a 7a+
LTG (2016/2017): Redpoint 7b's with dance-themed names (Sautanz, Brachiation)
Week Three of continually having a slight cold with headaches, sore throat etc. Overridden by the urgent need to finally redpoint *something* at the weekend.
M: Wall, Thalkirchen. Fairly relaxed routes session 5b 5b 6b 5c 6a+ 6b 6b 6a+
T:
W:
T: Beastmaker max hangs, Steve Maisch protocol. Excellent session: longer hangs or heavier weights than last week on everything.
F:
S: Family outing to Oktoberfest. Very light on the bier, because I already felt like shit in the morning following on from a week of mucho work and not enough sleep and don't want to make matters even worse when it's Redpoint Day tomorrow.
S: Konstein redpoint day. Ticked Edelbitter 7a yyfy. This was the first 7a I ever tried and is a really lovely route: big moves on mostly good holds up an ever steepening scooped wall with a tricky pull out at the top onto the finishing slab. Delighted to get this on a perfect early autumn day in the woods, felt harder than the other two 7a's I've done.
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Nice one guys.
STG - Roof Warrior
MTG - bit of bouldering and start to develop killer endurance over winter
LTG Put killer endurance to good use next Spring
M - rest
T - woke up stiff and very unmotivated, considered calling time on the Sport season but had made plans so had to go along. Opted against trying Roof Warrior, partner was trying Martial Music so struggled up that as a warm up. Second go much better, long links, Third go redpointed it without too much fuss. Did it another 4 times on a top rope including 2 burns back to back. For once left feeling better than I arrived with renewed enthusiasm.
W rest - after much deliberation emailed Tom Randall about an assessment and training plan
Th - got on Roof Warrior, far far better than previous attempt, linked bottom to roof but still didn't try the crimp move to protect finger. Did all the moves in the roof with some handy beta from below but didn't quite manage to link them all, possibly could have if the beta had come moments earlier. Did link kneebar to belay but grabbed draw rather than clip, then found the jug up right and linked from matched on the rail to the chains. Probably need one more working day then hopefully be able to start RPing. Psyched all the way up to 11 :bounce:
F - Woke battered, shoulders, back and neck all sore, no way was I going to climb today. Until about 11 I got bored of chores and nipped out briefly to try Jerry's again. Reworked the end but the stopper move still felt hard and unlikely to link. First two tries fell at this point but second time I got back onto work it with Left foot accidentally where Right should be for the set up move and just did the move, felt about 10x easier. Worked out how to do the foot swap, rested 5 minutes then did it with little fuss, drove home :slap: :slap: :slap: ing all the way.
S- frustrating day a bit like tomtom's
S - ditto, torn whether to do anything but in the end did a quick evening max hangs session, new PB of 93kg on the big slots.
Decent week, couple of good days out, renewed project psyche and a minor success. Oh and weight dipped under 58kg, arriving at fighting weight at the perfect time :boxing:
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Good work people.
M-Tu - Work
W - Indoors at Arkose, spent most of the time on overhanging stuff like I should be. Fun but packed as it was later than I'm used to.
Th-Fr - Wanted to fit in a BM session, but recent shoulders niggles have left we wary of fucking up my outdoor sessions.
Sa - Roche aux Oiseaux, started ominously by repeatly falling of a 4 I'd chosen to warm up on, then took 2 goes on another I'd done umpteen times...
Started to work L'oiseaux-lyre http://bleau.info/oiseaux/15137.html, might as well fall off something harder. Sun was badly positioned so did a couple of blue circuit problems. Then surprised myself by getting Petit toit http://bleau.info/oiseaux/15221.html in a few goes, really soft for 6A if you can lank it. Had a few more goes on L'oiseaux-lyre, then went for a rest on the excellent slab of Pot de Colle.
Went back to L'oiseaux-lyre had two shaky goes, had a sit down, noticed my shoes were really loosely laced, tightened them up. Topped out next go for my first 6A+, a nice one too.
Spent the rest of the day playing on more difficult stuff and ticking some easier stuff.
Su - Ache, eat a lot of good food and drink too much. Nice lie in.
And 73.6kg on Friday. All is good.
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Topped out next go for my first 6A+, a nice one too.
Excellent, well done. Looks very good in the pic on bleau.info
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It looks much higher in the pic on bleau.info than in real life :)
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Nice one fried - that picture does make it look taller than it is tho. Almost didn't recognise it!
My first 6A+ in Font too.
Will be parked up behind the cemetery from Thu morning for a few days... this has got me psyched!
Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk
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Good stuff folks!
STG: get on some 8As
LTG: 8A, 8b
M.
T. New yellow circuit at the wall (7a and up). No 'training'.
W.
T.
F. Max hangs session at the wall. Unassisted, no added weight.
S.
S. 6 hour round trip taking little bro to Uni.
Not a very productive week, next week will be better...
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Quite a good week despite the dark clouds of finals brooding on the horizon
M - rested
T - board session, fairly decent one
W - rested
T - board session, finally did all the remaining moves of the long term project. felt quite strong
F - rest day
S - decided to go running for the first time after putting it off for years, it was actually great fun, fantastic night run with good music. definitely going to be doing this more as a way to lose weight. afterwards I had a great board session, fell off the last move of my 10 move 'power endurance' project, a bit gutted but great progress. some good power too this session, did some new moves I hadn't done before. later I tried one arm hanging the middle edge on the bm 2000, managed it for about 3 seconds. I should do some fingerboarding to be able to hang this properly. might do a session or ttwo this week
Su - went running again in the rain at night, was even better than last time. going to try go running three times a week, on the days that I'm not training otherwise. went for another board session afterwards, it was fairly good, punted off of the same move as last night on the PE project. next session hopefully. also almost sent my crimp ladder project. I've been trying to fully crimp less and use the half crimp more on small edges, feels less injury prone and good to be able to half crimp edges I previously needed to fully crimp.
also tried doing a one arm with a 13kg weight later, managed it from about a quarter of the way through in the neutral grip one armer position. I only train this once a week, it's just a fun thing to do, hopefully some time soon I will get a nice one armer with the weight from straight arm to fully locked.
overall a great week, some fingerboarding may have been nice, but the running was fantastic, and teh finger strength seems to be very good anyway. sadly i learned last night that the 7B+ problem i tried ages ago outside and almost sent had its crux hold broken off. pretty sad since I've been rehearsing the moves on that thing at least once a week for the past couple months, and always hoped to go back out there and finish it off.
STG - one arm hang the middle edge on BM 2000 for 5 seconds, finish off the PE and crimp ladder problems on the board. going outdoors would be lovely too, to actually see what grade I am climbing at if anything
MTG - one arm the middle edge on the BM 2000. do my one armer with 13kg extra. do the pinch problem and crimp tension problems on the board
LTG - would love to climb 7C+ or 8A outdoors. finishing off my long term project on the board would also be great.
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84.2Kg
M -
T -
W - Lunch. 30 mins on Foundry Wave but felt knackered so stopped.
T - P.M. School. 30 and 50deg. Dope Black Slope and Dave's prob on 30 degree, decent go at Mr Blobby on 50deg.
F -
S - A.M. 45 mins fingerboard. Failed on 2nd set of front 3, but did 2 x 6 x 7 half crimped and managed one set of 6 x 7 back 3.
S - A.M. Stanage fog and midges - urggh. Bailed to Tor. Put nemesis problem, Powerhumps 7B+ to bed. Got stuck into Pump up the Power, getting left crimp twice and set up for next move.
Really tired at the start of the wk from thrashing myself the previous Sunday at Curbar. I rarely thrash, cos it takes me so long to recover. Lots of discussion about optimum venue for Sunday but ended up at the Tor as ming early on on the grit. PUTP account re-opened due to it not feeling like the living end (no doubt linked to feeling good on half-crimp - see Sat).
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Well done fried. Glad youve got your psyche back Muenchener.
10.11-12
M.
T. Malham Up with Paul Reeve and Maddy Cope arrived at noon. Was forecast to be cloudy but was blue skies and baking. Hung around for over 3 years / hours waiting for shade. Tom F showed up. Cons x 2 . Go 1 Got to second best highpoint Go2 Slipped off second move Go3 Got passed horn and fell going for sloper. Walk round Cove Go 4 Fumbled the horn - felt tired Go 5 Wasnt going to have another go but decided to give it a whirl and got to the final traverse. Frustrating day. Kept my record of getting to the top traverse twice in a session for the fifth consecutive session. This time in the poorest conditions which must be some kind of progress
W.
T. Cancelled arrangements to go back to Malham on friday as forecast was too hot. Eve Burbage with Tommy. I did Banana Finger Direct 6C and Definitive 5.12 also 6C before it started raining. Went for a walk and faied to find the Terrace and came back to find Tommy had thrashed himself and mashed his fingers repeatedly trying Definitive 5.12 whilst i was raining. Late Eve. Fingerboard session Step change imrovement on weighted deadhangs even factoring in weight loss ;D
F.
S. Went to see Canada vs Italy. Good match. Evening do - exhibited great restraint on nibbles and drinks front
S. Malham with Tommy. Left it late and arrived mid afternoon. Too hot. :wall: Slithered my way to top traverse on first proper redpoint but was busted. Sub par goes thereafter.
Now been up to final traverse eleven times in last six sessions but perhaps only two of those redpoint attempts could be described as OK conditions. Naturally getting a bit jaded. Have provisionally arranged to go up tomorrow afternoon/evening when weather looks a bit better. Tempted to have a break from it until temperature drops. :devangel: Work is also building up.
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sounds like great efforts Shark - keep it up! Think how easy it will feel for you when the right conditions come :)
STG - Consolidate 7a/+
MTG – 7b+
LTG/VLTG – daren’t say :o
M – Rest/antag
T – Onsighting up to V3/4, foot on campusboarding 40 mins
W – Rest/antag
T – Traverses & 15 mins fingerboarding
F – Rest/antag
S – Chee Tor, RP White Gold (which is in mint condition at the moment! Well done Team Peak!)
S – Two Tier, RP Quality Control easily, TR Open Gate, could do all the moves but didn’t have the energy to RP. Tried Darl at the end of the day & couldn’t believe how hard it felt
Sore shoulder now though
& still to weigh in this week - Ill update this later to keep track of it
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goals - etc
M - weights
T - short wall session, but surprisingly productive, managed to time warm up well, and got on the 2 things I wanted to do before too tired.
W - nothing - went to geology lecture. Very interesting, (I resisted telling lecturer Army Dreamers isn't E1 though)
T - pullup and fingerboard session
F - some core
S - Morning swim with youngest. Took pad for a walk in afternoon, but everywhere was greasy. Arse.
S - Arbroath with kids. Lots of walking, and had a bit of a play on the Rockworks wall at the playpark. Kids more interested in miniature train.
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STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 6/10 done.
Nothing outdoors this week. Lots of rain...
M: St Leonards. Light session, not much skin after 4 days on granite. Usual shoulder stuff after.
T: Rest.
W: Rain. 9 Degrees. Tried to flash the black comp circuit. ~25 problems V4-V9, all the dynamic world cup style things. Flashed all bar 4, did 3 of them, just leaving the one left. Then went through and flashed a load of the red circuit (supposed to be V6-V8), tried most, flashed most of those, did a few in a couple of shots, didn't do others.
T: Rest. Rain.
F: Rain. St Leonards. Tough climb. Did all new stuff bar 3 stupidest problems. Made up some hard hard problems. Took maybe 35-40 attempts to do one of them. Big campus, fingerboard, push ups, shoulder session after. Ruined.
S: Rain. Rest
S: St Leonards. Wanted to get outside but mates bailed. Zero power, falling off everything. Long warm up and couldn't do the hardest of the problems I'd made up the other day. Must've been pretty tough. Campus, shoulder and push ups after.
Desperate to get back outside. Badly want to get back to Queen's Park and do Paul's Roof V9. I know I can do it.
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Goal: Font 7b
M: Was going to climb after work but skin ragged from Snowden session previous day. Did lunchtime HIIT class. Hard work.
T: Nowt.
W: Nowt.
T: Tried the Gym Jones "300" workout ([size=78%]https://gymjones.com/knowledge/3-300 (https://gymjones.com/knowledge/3-300)[/size]). Completed it in just over 40 minutes, though couldn't do the "floor wipers". Did some serious compensation after work at colleague's leaving do. Rolled in at midnight, up once in the night to feed Una and then up at 5am on Friday when she woke up.
F: Off work on leave. Spent the morning thoroughly regretting all aspects of Thursday, then went out with Una, my best mate and his daughter for a nice afternoon. Hurting from 300.
S: Avoided Leeds due to RWC so went to Peak instead. Ridiculous / stressful drive there due to traffic, eventually arrived at Hathersage with hungry / grumpy Una and her Mum not much better. Had a late lunch in Longlands and then went for a short (hot!) walk at Burbage North and felt better about the fact I wasn't climbing. Hurting from 300.
S: Spent day clearing out our damp and smelly cellar, then inspired by Slackers' recent efforts decided to sort the shed while I was at it. Hurting from 300.
Bit of a "ticking over" week - always feels like it when I've got some kind of midweek social event in there.
Climbing-wise am going through a bit of a dip - been outside (yay!) a fair bit last few weekends, but then have got sucked into demo-ing beta and failing to repeat (NNFN!) stuff I've done before which isn't great for psyche.
Ian - weird you emailed Tommy re: training plan. Am considering the same as I'm a bit stuck in a rut and don't know what to do.
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Ian - weird you emailed Tommy re: training plan. Am considering the same as I'm a bit stuck in a rut and don't know what to do.
I've been feeling the same, been a poor year after starting with such promise. Although Thursday on Roof Warrior was a massive improvement vs the last time a month ago though so maybe old-skool deadhangs, weighted pullups and 4x4s is the way to go for me. Last two years I've said I'd get some coaching if I didn't get 8a and given myself one more chance. Still haven't managed one so time to bite the bullet. Haven't heard back yet, though, guess he gets deluged with requests at this time of year.
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Forgive me powerclub for it has been 7 weeks since my last
confession post.
STG: See a physio and conjure a plan to sort out all my niggles.
MTG: 8A
LTG: 8B
M: ab ripper x
T: Lunch time run. Almscliff, evening session on Jess's Roof 7C, dabbed (barely) catching the finishing jug, back around.
W: Depot, social session. Conscience effort not to trash myself.
T: Antagonistic back/shoulder stuff
F: Almscliff, finished off Jess's Roof, no dab.
S: Caley, opened account on Zoo York 8A. It's hard and brilliant. Happy to finally try the moves. Also briefly tried Ben's Groove sitter 7C+, initial moves felt reasonably promising. There's so much for me to do at Caley this winter!
S: Caley main, for an easy session, did some 6's that I overlooked in the past. Had a play on Two Squrriels 7B+, definitely one to come back to.
Unfortunately, my tweaky finger has swollen slightly from this week's antics and there's a very faint but just audible grinding/crunching sound when I bend it. I wouldn't have noticed but I specifically checked for noise after hearing a recent horror story about a friend who's badly injured a finger. Movement is fine and I can still climb, but I'm concerned the noise may be from chronic damage. Has anyone dealt with anything similar?
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Mon: Nowt
Tues: post work carrock fell. was keen to try and get something done in what was going to be a 90 or so minute session, so headed back to try metronome after having had a play on it a couple of years back. had to have serious words with myself about the landing, the unlikely situation of being back here in good conditions (and with more than two pads) etc. chickened out of the stand start, but managed to convince myself that this wouldn't happen if i got there from the sit. a couple of goes later and i scratched my way to the top. well chuffed. didn't even get home that late :D
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yosbaaynKR8
Wed: easy campus
Thurs: first hardish wall session in a while due to there being a good scene. thanks to all who were there.
Fri: rest
Sat: Shaftoe: really scrittly, like really really scrittly. tried bloodsport again, but am just far too weak.
Sun: Kyloe: was going to go to bowden but there was blazing sunshine, so headed for some shade. tried hitchhikers ss rh. failed. had a few throws at the start of monks. too weak, but manage to get past the mono a couple of times without my finger hurting, which is the second best outcome to any attempt on Monks :D
A good week all in all (EDIT: forgot to finish typing)
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Nice one Rodma a little slip at the end there to keep things spicy!
I can see the line of fast cars and campervans winking at me in the left there...
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Nice one Rodma a little slip at the end there to keep things spicy!
I can see the line of fast cars and campervans winking at me in the left there...
cheers tomtom
well done on your ticklist this year so far. will try and get down to the south lakes again soonish (I almost attempted to join you on Tues, but wouldn't have got there until about 6pm). there's so much i still want to do there.
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Good week, back to board climbing!
Mon - max fingerboarding BM. Good sessions, super intense.
Tue - rest.
Wed - pull ups, contrast training and speed. Barbell complex, mega hard: bentover row, front squat, snatch pulls, good mornings, overhead press, deadlift, x2. Ouch. Forearms like granite ballons.
Thu - board climbing! Good session despite feeling tired before starting. First time with better connies, 20 degrees and 53% humidity, immediate progress on the project! Did it in bits and had two good goes. Steady on the previously low percentage moves. Boy done good in the Summer!
Fri - snatch pulls pyramid finisher http://youtu.be/EKPsQR8hncg; hill sprints x6.
Sat - board climbing. Good goes on old projects of 6/8 moves.
Sun - board climbing. A bit tired, fingers especially. Shoulder a bit sore from previous sessions. The quest for Winter greatness has officially started. Lots of projects to be done.
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Nice one fried - that picture does make it look taller than it is tho. Almost didn't recognise it!
My first 6A+ in Font too.
Will be parked up behind the cemetery from Thu morning for a few days... this has got me psyched!
Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk
PM me if you fancy meeting up, I'll probably be out on Saturday morning. Weather looks cracking for the forseeable future. :2thumbsup:
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PM sent chap - see you Saturday :2thumbsup:
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Mon: Surf, followed by 5/5/5 fingerboard session a la Steve Maisch. Quite surprised at gains.
Tues: Treadmill at lunch. Hard
Wed: Another 5/5/5 fingerboard session a la Maisch.
Thurs: Bouldering and one arm max hangs, but really feeling two heavy fingerboard sessions.
Fri: AM surf, PM trail run.
Sat: Really heavy 3/3/3 fingerboard session a la Maisch.
Sun: Rained out and no motivation to train.
Some heavy fingerboarding during the week - starting to see gains, but feeling really tired, especially when climbing. That said, I'm treating this as an investment for my trip at the end of the year, and as research, so I'm committed to the long term rather than the short term..
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Cheers to all the exceelent Sendage!!
Excellent week overall. Week 2 of 5-3-1 Program, and so far I'm really liking it. Feeling really strong and feeling the difference while climbing and playing soccer both. Haven't dropped any weight, but am certainly getting more cut.
M - Bench (4x160lbs), MED (6mm edge - 12sec +10lbs), Abroll, Squats, Light Bouldering
T - Deadlift (3x335lbs), Wtd Pullups (4x70lbs), Overhead press, Ankles to Bar, Light Bouldering
Also Saw Physio about shoulder - he's not certain, but thinks a labral strain from the bicep attachement, suggested continuing training, but added a few modifications and changes.
W - Rest
T - Squats (4x165), MAW (18mm edge - 9sec +90lbs), Abroll, Bench press
F - Overhead Press (3x80), Wtd Rows (3x80lbs), Ankles to Bar, Deadlift
S-Soccer game in PM
S-Rope climb w Wife - 5 sets of 3 routes, wu set 10,11,11,12, then 3x5.12 for each other set, short boulder session to check out a few new hard ones - Flash 2x v8, 2x v9 2nd go, all in Cave which is my weakest wall/angle. Soccer game in PM.
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STG:
get back on it I suppose the new STG is to keep it up
MTG: back into the 7’s on the routes
LTG: same old E6, 8a, v7+ bouldering
m: 3 sets on fingerboard
t: 4 sets on fingerboard at lunch 2 x 10 pu's later on
w:
t: quick hr at wall on way home. felt a bit tired but knocked out some decent problems and got down to it on the campus board which I hope will help my underdeveloped burl
f:
s:
s:
pretty good week training wise although feel battered as worked really long hrs all wend. maybe I'll get to the wall or even outdoors if the weather carries on. I've been tied up during the last good spell which is annoying.
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Hi, this is my first post in the power club.
In the last couple of years I've done almost exclusively boulder. I've climbed a couple of 7bs and some 7as.
My weekly training usually consists of: fingerboarding, a couple of session on my home board, some weights or bodyweight excercises and some yoga now and then.
STG: keep training and avoid injuries, improve power endurance
MTG: Consolidate 7a, climb a couple of 7b+
LTG: 7c
Mon - Beastmaker Max hangs. Good session.
Tue - board session. Tried a couple of short hard problems.
Wed - rest
Thu - Power endurance session: boulder circuits (12-20 moves) with short rests (60/90")
Fri - rest
Sat - Sun Went climbing in Arco with a friend. On saturday we did an easy multipitch route 5c/6a.
On sunday in Arco was raining so we moved to the dolomites where we did another easy route on piz Ciavazes.
It was a good week though I was a little tired.
I had a small problem on my right shoulder after tuesday session, but than it disappeared during the weekend.
I was also happy to get back to multipitches routes after a while.
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Big up to those on the send train.
Goals - as ever
M-T - coughing and spluttering
F - BM session, pretty good.
S - work and DIY
S - outside on steep project. 4 blasts each time got from ground to failing on crux move.
, pulled past couple of moves to half height gear then climbed to top. Felt pretty strong on top half and got fingers onto next hold of crux but only held for a smidge of a part of a second. Then traverse wall on hard eliminate project, did it in four sections but I was beasted and had tres sore skin.
Slightly crap week due to ongoing illness, only five weeks until Margalef now...
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Hi, this is my first post in the power club.
In the last couple of years I've done almost exclusively boulder. I've climbed a couple of 7bs and some 7as.
Hello - and welcome :)
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STG: Re-hab bicep tendon. Slab climbing
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (this winter)
LTG: 8c (within 2.25 years)
M.
T. Floss, Eccentric curls 3x10 10Kg, Reverse arm hold 40secs.
W. Floss, Curls 3x12 5Kg, Eccentric curls 3x12 10Kg.
T. Core & mobility workout. Reverse arm hold 45secs.
F. Curls 3x10 5Kg, Eccentric curls 3x10 10Kg.
S. Slate. Four F5-6a+ warm-ups, all of them actually good(!) then got on Short Stories in boiling hot sun/no wind. Got between 1st and 2nd bolt, sweaty as hell and defo not a good plan. Just about managed to downclimb back to ground without weighting rope. Having a right time trying to do routes on this slab, 3 weekends in a row and nothing - too ill, forgot rack, too hot. Went to dulas and belayed a lanky skinny strong freak in a roof. Got on hardest route since bicep injury - Pearl from the Shell 6c+ - had to hang on a steep bit to avoid using bicep too much. Did a 6b.
S. Rhinogs gritstone with Fiend and PK. Did three E3 slabs - Rock Steady, Quartzstorm and the one to the right of Quartstorm. All lovely rock/climbing. Had a tough time on the last one after almost slipping off low down. I think Llechau Mawr would be a good high summer venue - bit of seepage and greasy lichen in spots in late September. Good potential for doing route after route on multiple ascending levels. Fear Test looks ace, but fortunately it had a seepage spot on the crucial bit.
Nice to go climbing in the Rhinogs with the local guidebook/new routing team - one from Bristol the other from Glasgow. Pull your finger out Wales.
Bicep tendon making very slow progress, fed up.
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"Pull your finger out Wales". If you had 2 biceps you wouldn't be new routing in the Rhinogs :whip:
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This is a round of my last three weeks.
Mon to Thursday nothing flew to Italy Sassfortino.
Fri climb problems up to 6c swim 20 lengths
Sat walk 2 hours 30 lengths
Sun. Rain nothing.
Mon. Damp crag wet 2 x 20 lengths.
Tue. Sight seeing 40 lengths.
Wed. Walked 2 hours wet again 50 lengths.
Thu. Crag found some Dryish rock 5 problems up to 6c.30 lengths.
Fri. Damp battled up one wet problem. 60 lengths..
Sat dry 21 problems.20 lengths.
Sun. Nothing.
Mon. Senna.
Tue.11 problems up to 6c.20 lengths.
Wed. 26 problems 20 lengths.
Thu. Home.
Fri work
Sat board, bike 2 hrs
Sun. Bike 2 hrs.
Drank loads, 9 pizzas,2 pasta meals, 2 four course wine tasting meals and one salad. But seem to have lost weight.
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Dismal ...
M - work/nothing
T - evening board session. Start warming up fine but several problems I feel a definite twinge inside my right elbow sticking a dynamic move. Carry on but I can still feel it but as soon as I try a problem undercutting there is very definite pain and have to stop immediately.
W - at least work is full on so that it is a distraction. Some very gentle rehab
T - ditto
F - travel up to Edinburg for university open day on Saturday
S - open day, touristy stuff, get home late. A really good couple of days. I know the forecast is good for the next day but I feel knackered, the arm is still a little sore, and I'm generally unpsyched for what will have to be a very early morning session on Sunday. Definitely too many nightcaps on getting home.
S - wake up to a beautiful morning but I feel rough and starting to feel like I've picked up a bit of bug (confirmed by very sore throat next day). Spend day moping and feeling weak-willed. Gutted to have wasted/not been able to use some great weather.
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There are still many beautiful mornings to come...
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flew to Italy Sassfortino.
Hey I thought you didn't come!
I hope you liked the climbing.
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:furious:H
There are still many beautiful mornings to come...
Fewer than there used to be
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:furious:HThere are still many beautiful mornings to come...
Fewer than there used to be
There will be PLENTY of beautiful GRITSTONE mornings to come! \o/
(I'm starting to get bored of the white stuff..)
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Hey,
STG: Do more of the V7+ circuit at the local wall, currently topping ~20% of them.
MTG: Font 7B+/C - planning a trip in April. 8a next year.
Mixed week, busy early on then good sessions over the weekend
M:-
T: Deadhangs on small edges / core work on a bar - single leg front lever, lsit windscreen wipers.
W:-
Th:-
F: 1h30 wall boulder, did 2 of the new V4-6 set in a couple of goes
Sa: 2h30 wall boulder, did 3 more of the new V4-6 set
Su: 2h wall boulder, did one of the new V7+ circuit (soft), worked on a v7/8 (supposedly) graded problem
Feeling stronger than ever, the v4-6 circuit is one that I had done only a few of ~6months ago, and now finding I'm confident I can do almost all of them, and flash a few.
Footnote: Did the V7/8 problem yesterday, feels more V6/7 with the right beta.
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(I'm starting to get bored of the white stuff..)
with good reason
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I don't know whether it's already been mentioned, but it appears a Tomtom week is considerably longer than the average week... ;)
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Now been up to final traverse eleven times in last six sessions but perhaps only two of those redpoint attempts could be described as OK conditions. Naturally getting a bit jaded. Have provisionally arranged to go up tomorrow afternoon/evening when weather looks a bit better. Tempted to have a break from it until temperature drops. :devangel: Work is also building up.
Went up yesterday. Better conditions than Sunday but not primo and maybe just one day rest was not enough but got back to upper traverse twice again.
Feeling jaded and finding it hard to tap into the massive psyche needed for these redpoint goes so not going again this week but signed up for next Monday. Also have some work assignments to get stuck into.
Going to a bit of bouldering as this seems to be the most consistent thing that gives me a better nudge on the route though may throw in some PE and AeroCap as well.
Id originally thought that once I got to the top traverse that it would be a formality given how easy it seems in isolation but Ive been up there 13 times now.
Here's footage of my two best goes from yesterday:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiMyUMDFf9I
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Nice Shark! :2thumbsup: Good luck next Monday if you go
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Nice Shark! :2thumbsup: Good luck next Monday if you go
Thanks Ben. Its turning onto a recurring nightmare. Hopefully some time out with different stimulus and better conditions will see me through to the chain.
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It will happen, oh yes, it will happen.
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Smash it Shark!
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I don't know whether it's already been mentioned, but it appears a Tomtom week is considerably longer than the average week... ;)
i was close to starting it off this week, but thought i might get the dates wrong. glad it's not just me
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Oops :)
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(I'm starting to get bored of the white stuff..)
Sniff sniff and move onto a bit of brown.
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flew to Italy Sassfortino.
Hey I thought you didn't come!
I hope you liked the climbing.
I really enjoyed it conditions were a bit hit and miss though,some rain and low cloud. Then when it was dry it was between 25 and 30 degrees. Also having one smallish mat was a bit scarey at times.
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I'm glad you liked it.
Give a call next time you're around!
:2thumbsup:
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I would love to go back and the place we stayed at Valdonica was great. However as the Missus has ordered about a tankers worth of their wine it might be some time before we can afford it again.
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;D ;D ;D
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Now been up to final traverse eleven times in last six sessions but perhaps only two of those redpoint attempts could be described as OK conditions. Naturally getting a bit jaded. Have provisionally arranged to go up tomorrow afternoon/evening when weather looks a bit better. Tempted to have a break from it until temperature drops. :devangel: Work is also building up.
Here's footage of my two best goes from yesterday:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiMyUMDFf9I
Simon can you climb a bit quicker? Its very, er methodical. You must have it all dialed.
Someone suggested this to me recently and next go I did the proj.
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It has been suggested before.... and wasn't well received...
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26303.msg499504.html#msg499504
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Simon can you climb a bit quicker? Its very, er methodical. You must have it all dialed.
Someone suggested this to me recently and next go I did the proj.
I was going to make the same observation but sometimes it's one thing seeing it from a distance and another thing actually doing it, especially when a climb is very body-tensiony or has poor/precise footholds.
Anyway, this thread is great psyche, good luck shark get it done!
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It has been suggested before.... and wasn't well received...
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26303.msg499504.html#msg499504
:lol: Well I'm not really a boulderer these days, my proj was twice as long as the Oak and had gone on for at least as long.
And I really did do it next go after speed was mentioned. And breathing.
You've got nothing to lose Simon, try something slightly different for a working go to see how it feels?
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Might sound a
daft desperate suggestion but lose the chalkbag (and 2-300 grams), you only dip three times all route. Just thickly daub chalk all over the legs of your trousers and pat your thighs to transfer it to your fingers. Seems a bit odd at first setting off bag-free but it saves weight and you soon get used to it. it's also far quicker saving potentially vital seconds as opposed to fumbling around to locate and get your hand into your chalkbag.
This is a serious suggestion, BTW, I do it all the time on limit routes with minimal chances to rechalk
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Do you need your glasses Simon? You must know the route by touch by now - and that's an easy 50g saving #marginalgains
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I climbed with a guy last week who changed into shorts for his redpoints (this was belaying in hat, duvet and gloves weather). Every little helps. Clip, clip
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That's nothing. My mate cut he label off his harness and the lining out his chalk bag (he needed to chalk up..)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Yeah I always wear shorts but thats an aesthetic point: for sport climbing if its cold enough for tops off you should ALREADY have gone to shorts or lycra.
- shorts
- liquid chalk
- skipping clips
- some weird expensive foreign import chalk
- knee pad
- stock piled discontinued footwear
- Short hair
- Lightweight harness
- roller biners
- Michelin Pilot Super Sports
Lets not forget all of this is about BRINGING IT DOWN TO YOUR LEVEL, might as well go all in.
NB: Trousers no top is acceptable when bouldering.
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That's nothing. My mate cut he label off his harness and the lining out his chalk bag (he needed to chalk up..)
Wow, that's like the cyclists who buy a new seat post to save 10g. Only £100 cheaper.
I did once weigh all my trousers ahead of a day on redpoint. Saved over 250g wearing moon pants rather than jeans. Still failed, though.
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You could probably save that by enthusiastically all body exfoliating... All that dry skin doing nothing :D
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One of Gaskins power enlightenment secrets is his full bone slap head hair style. Shave it all off Shark! :strongbench:
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Chop your dick off too
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Chop your dick off too
Might not save much there.. ;)
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Chop your dick off too
Might not save much there.. ;)
Double ouch
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Re climbing quicker the footholds do require an element of precision. I have spared you the multitude of failed red point "footage" due to foot slips. I will try though
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Might sound a daft desperate suggestion but lose the chalkbag (and 2-300 grams), you only dip three times all route. Just thickly daub chalk all over the legs of your trousers and pat your thighs to transfer it to your fingers. Seems a bit odd at first setting off bag-free but it saves weight and you soon get used to it. it's also far quicker saving potentially vital seconds as opposed to fumbling around to locate and get your hand into your chalkbag.
This is a serious suggestion, BTW, I do it all the time on limit routes with minimal chances to rechalk
This I might try
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Can you try a lighter harness for redpoint goes? I have one of these for alpine climbing and it weighs fuck all, plenty sturdy enough for falling off. If I was operating at the bleeding edge of my personal redpoint capacity I'd be wearing it no question.
http://www.elitemountainsupplies.co.uk/product/1564_black-diamond-couloir-harness.html?gclid=CP6M_6mUosgCFcFz2wodkX4Msw (http://www.elitemountainsupplies.co.uk/product/1564_black-diamond-couloir-harness.html?gclid=CP6M_6mUosgCFcFz2wodkX4Msw)
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Weight Weenies for climbing - I love it.
Drop all the clothes, and do it starkers.....
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Doing it bollock nekkid would be a false economy, cos he'd then have to wear a challbag. Should stick with a pair of cut-off surgical scrubs caked in chalk.
Also, if there's no heelhooking then you can safely drill holes all over the back, sides and soles of the rockshoes to remove superfluous material.
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Its turning onto a recurring nightmare.
Try and think more positively, redpointing at your limit is a failure based sport unfortunately, there's gonna be lots of not making it before the sweet relief of chains being clipped.
Great to see you looking so strong on the horn move, keep the faith, see these burns as opportunities to shine!
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Stop thinking you are there when you are not actually there. You are only there when you are actually there.
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If an oak falls in a forest and there is no one there to hear it...
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So it looks like the combined wisdom of UKB has said to dial the RP crux, then attempt the route while wearing cut off surgical scrubs caked in chalk(i assume these should be cut as short as possible whilst allowing for aforementioned chalk caking), sans chalk bag and any other additional weight (i.e. drop the glasses, reduce shoes via drill only the minimal amount needed for climbing this particular route, minimalist harness-may I suggest a swami belt :-\ )
Anything else we'd like to see in the next video? Aside from sendage, which of course is guaranteed by the collective wisdom of UKB given Shark follows the given advice.
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A single 7.8mm half rope for the conservative, or daringly go all the way to a single 6.7mm twin?
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So it looks like the combined wisdom of UKB has said to dial the RP crux, then attempt the route while wearing cut off surgical scrubs caked in chalk(i assume these should be cut as short as possible whilst allowing for aforementioned chalk caking), sans chalk bag and any other additional weight (i.e. drop the glasses, reduce shoes via drill only the minimal amount needed for climbing this particular route, minimalist harness-may I suggest a swami belt :-\ )
Anything else we'd like to see in the next video?
Duh
Simon can you climb a bit quicker?
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Chop your dick off too
Might not save much there.. ;)
Double ouch
That's right. Work on the low hanging fruit first :)
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If an oak falls in a forest and there is no one there to hear it...
I'm sure we'll hear all about it.
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I have tried to find micro beta improvements on the redpoint crux including experimenting with a thumb catch and body positioning but no joy - and I have got past the redpoint crux twice now.
In terms of other things I have recently bought and started using:
- Climbing Labs chalk and new chalk bag for it. Might look at liquid chalk again but never been fond of it previously
- 2 roller crabs for the first two clips
- Lightweight trousers 266g and a bargain at £6.50 (https://www.decathlon.co.uk/arpenaz-50-mens-walking-trousers-ochre-id_8329530.html)
The R300 Arcteryx harness I am wearing is lightweight. I could reuse my old 320 and cut off the gear loops but really? Im using a cut down short 9.2 Revelation rope though to be fair it is an older furry one so I can take my new slicker 80m one instead.
Not averse to wearing shorts but Nai's suggestion of plastering my leg is good especially for the top shakeout where chalking the right hand is more marginal.
Maybe I should leave the redpoint attempt for very early evening to make the best of conditions when Im freshest though that does cut down the number attempts before nightfall.
I will try to climb faster and compare my time with previous attempts. Stronger people do a quicker but more powerful sequence on the start so I dont think there is anything for me to gain by changing this.
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by the way - c. 0.5m long hair (full head) weighs 75-100g... (i was bored so I found out..) so I don't think you've much to gain there unless you've sprouted a grey pony tail since I last saw you... ;)
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I was initially going to comment on the speed of climbing, but I remember when I was trying powerplant recently, I thought I was going flat out but when I watched my videos, it looked about the same pace as yours (much slower than it felt). I felt that if I sped up at all that I was risking accuracy and just ended up pulling harder to make up for rushing. So I won't say climb faster.
Near the end I did consciously have a look at how hard I was pulling on the easier sections, I appreciate your route looks bouldery but perhaps you can grip lighter on some sections, it really helped me on powerplant. I ended up not really pulling hard at all until after the bulge for the RP crux, which is where I needed the strength. Also take a look at your breathing? You sound very out of breath after you fall in your video, this was another thing I worked on for my project.
Routing for you and hope you do it soon Shark.
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Obviously I know very little about siege redpointing but I would have a break and do something different for a week. Give yourself that treat of going soloing at Stanage, get you brain/body into some instinctive movement for a change.
You haven't said anything about your mental preparation either. How do you prepare your mind prior to starting a redpoint?
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Also take a look at your breathing? You sound very out of breath after you fall in your video, this was another thing I worked on for my project.
I was able to improve my breathing on the lower section but the top traverse is incredibly taxing on your core and breathing is virtually impossible
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I find trying to speed up usually fucks me up too. prob worth it if you're really crawling but can imagine this might be hard at Malham.
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Obviously I know very little about siege redpointing but I would have a break and do something different for a week. Give yourself that treat of going soloing at Stanage, get you brain/body into some instinctive movement for a change.
You haven't said anything about your mental preparation either. How do you prepare your mind prior to starting a redpoint?
Yeah been doing that. Out at Burbage Earl last night with my sons for first time. Got to first slopey ledge on Little Rascal but puntered moves above to next ledge. Have a hole in my thumb and ring finger now (Is the back of the groove always filled with crud?) Nice sunset ;D
Im usually good for turning it on for a redpoint. Usually go through the moves. Sometimes go for a walk to clear my head. Remind myself to make every attempt count and enjoy it or get angry. That sort of thing. Do get distracted by nearby conversations or people shouting beta to each other but with going midweek it is usually quiet anyway. Recently started to count "one" or "one-two" in my head with each move if I'm not entirely in the zone or to shut out distractions.
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Obviously I know very little about siege redpointing but I would have a break and do something different for a week. Give yourself that treat of going soloing at Stanage, get you brain/body into some instinctive movement for a change. campusing down the school or bouldering on peak lime
You haven't said anything about your mental preparation either. How do you prepare your mind prior to starting a redpoint?
My favourite tactic is singing Phil Collins and Bonnie Tyler songs or listening to euphoric cheesy trance plus this, which is the most important one (both for fun and success):
Remind myself to ... enjoy it
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My favourite tactic is singing Phil Collins and Bonnie Tyler songs or listening to euphoric cheesy trance
or 2Pac?
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I've started playing the Real Thing soundtrack on my phone but maybe not at Malham ::)
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I've started playing the Real Thing soundtrack on my phone but maybe not at Malham ::)
yeah that and Supertiel = boost
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If an oak falls in a forest and there is no one there to hear it...
I'm sure we'll hear all about it.
I'd bloody hope so, we're all on baited breath here.
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This is classic - redpoint by committee.
What you need is everyone on here stood on the Catwalk shouting instructions :lol:
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Crowdsourced redpoiting. Do we all get the tick when Shark smashes it in?
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Is there 3g coverage at the Cove? We can get someone to Periscope RP's...
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or 2Pac?
That's bouldering music only you amateur
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Pete Livesey would have hung a £50 note at the belay for incentive .
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Pete Livesey would have hung a £50 note at the belay for incentive .
I've already suggested bucket of water at the belay, set hand on fire again.
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Someone recommended to slap yourself in the face a few times to get the adrenaline started, although it may work better and be more enjoyable for everyone if the belayer did it. I did it sometimes if I was feeling really sedate after a long rest as I was having like 1 hour rests between RPs (don't chalk up just before doing it) and I think it worked, even if it turns out that my belayer just wanted to see me slapped in the face but I was willing to try anything at that stage.
Also, I think that I read somewhere that the physiological response to fear is the same as excitement (could be bs), so I'd always try and change that fear sensation in my stomach into an excitement one before I set off, get psyched, realise that this could be the go and unleash.
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Punch yourself in the face Barry. Radicalise the moderates.
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I can't believe I do all my redpoints with a chalk bag, often in trousers, with hair of a variable length, having not got my belayer to beat me up. Most of the time I've even got the added weight of bits of rubber and gaffa tape too. I am such a punter.
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And another thing: don't go to Malham on Saturday, go on Sunday.
Spend Saturday doing fuck all.
I don't mean fuck all like 10 hours DIY, working from home, worrying about your rental empire, setting fire to your hand whatever your hobbies are. I mean, have a lie in, send the kids off to lazer quest, go for a short walk to the shops, make your self a deluxe omelette, watch the rugby sat on your sofa. Do nothing. (Your family will thank you for this later).
Then on Sunday drive to the crag in good time at whatever speed you find relaxing, people have different definitions of this.
The working week is more tiring than you might think.
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Forget all that nonsense above. There's only one thing you need to do. Heed these carefully chosen words of advice given to me by Richie Crouch after falling off a 6C in Magic Wood again:
"You fucking dickhead, just climb it!"
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Forget all that nonsense above. There's only one thing you need to do. Heed these carefully chosen words of advice given to me by Richie Crouch after falling off a 6C in Magic Wood again:
"You fucking dickhead, just climb it!"
Did it work?
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Well, I climbed it, so I guess it did.
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Shark, have you tried putting your finger up your bum? I mean, just generally.
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Forget all that nonsense above. There's only one thing you need to do. Heed these carefully chosen words of advice given to me by Richie Crouch after falling off a 6C in Magic Wood again:
"You fucking dickhead, just climb it!"
A year ago or so, I overheard Tim Palmer at the cliff saying "Sometimes you've just got to get on with it", or something of similar effect. I have no idea what he was actually talking about, but it's been my climbing mantra since.
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If you don't let go you won't fall off.
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I'd have thought you meant take your thumb out of your arse Cofe?
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Shark, have you tried putting your finger up your bum? I mean, just generally.
Does that help you lose weight?
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I find some mild misogynistic verbals just before you set off helps.
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Someone recommended to slap yourself in the face a few times to get the adrenaline started.
Maybe plaster your face with chalk beforehand and kill two birds with one stone. :D